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The Chef

The Complete Tanaka Thread

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Righty then.

 

If you have any questions that relate directly to any of the Tanaka range of Sniper rifles, including the M700, M24, M40A1, AICS or Kar98 or the KJW M700 and their take-down equivalents please search this thread to see if its been asked before, and if not, please ask in here.

 

For a review of the Tanaka M700 series, please go here. http://www.airsoftsniper.co.uk/REVIEWS/tanaka.php

 

For information on the stripdown of the Tanaka M700 series barrel and hop unit, please go here http://www.airsoftsniper.co.uk/TANAKA/barrelhop.php

 

For information on how to install the BGS hop rubber. Please go here, http://www.airsoftsniper.co.uk/TANAKA/bgshop.php

 

Thanks all.

 

Hopefully this will allow people to source their information quickly and easily, so for the benefit of all (and maybe yourself one day) please keep this thread tidy, and try not to post questions that have already been answered.

 

Cheers,

Chef

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On a note to this thread, and the others in this section, repeated information will be tidied up.

 

All new links will be at the top of this thread in the first post so there will be no need to go digging through.

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Not sure if this goes here but it does have to do with Tanaka rifles. I made modification to one my BGS hop-up rubbers which I hope will make it operate almost like a V-hop. From what I understand about V-hop is that it instead of one contact point it uses two in the shape of a V stabilizing the bb better(if I'm wrong let me know). I made a cut in the center of the bump on the rubber and as you add hop it will create a V in the bump. I hope it will help in accuracy; I'll test it this weekend.

post-23743-1163710058_thumb.jpg

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Well, the V-hop and new Shark hop (by Madbull) actually has the 'v' in the actuator and not on the hop rubber bump at all.

 

The V pushes down on the outside of the hop creating 2 pressure points on the extreme edges of the rubber, but allowing full contact of the whole rubber on the BB.

 

I was going to try something similar, but putting the V shape in the actuator that pushes down on the hop rubber. Haven't got around to it yet though.

 

Let us know how you get on with it.

 

Just as an aside to the BGS hop rubber issue. If anyone is getting trouble with their tanaka not firing with the BGS rubbers installed, and it just going 'pppffft' and the round staying where it is.

 

The your problem is a short loading nozzle. The BGS rubber creates such a good seal around the nozzle such that a BB cannot actually pass through it with the power of the gas. The longer nozzle actually pushes the BB past this jamming point and into the barrel itself, allowing it to fire normally. The Nozzle needs to be approximately 13mm longer than the original and needs to be turned down slightly. This can also cause wild hop issues because it will sometimes fire normally, but it actually grabs some hop from this initial choke point as well when it hits the hop bump.

 

The new tanakas have the longer nozzle already and no modification is needed. This applied to older Tanaka's only.

 

I have added a really bad pic to illustrate the point.

post-7631-1163711164_thumb.jpg

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is the BGS hopup still only sold on evike? because im not willing to buy from them after all ive read about them.

 

also, AICS on green gas, currently using Super Grand Masters (.29 or .29 i think), should i use something heavyier? because although the SGM bbs are great quality, i think at the green gas power of the AICS, something heavier would be much more accurate.

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Dist, it might be just a question of trying them over time. I use .36's through mine and find them to be perfectly reasonable. but then in the past I used .43's, again, which were good.

 

I switched to 36's for ammo compatability with some of my pistols, thats the only reason.

 

And yes... Evike are the only place that I have found that sell the BGS rubbers. A pain I know, but they did deliver promptly when I ordered my stuff. After a slight screw up with payment.

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I read on several other forums that the new laws in Japan have forced TANAKA WORKS to limit it's guns output to 0.98Joules. WGC confirmed this apparrantly. There is talk that this may not be rifles for export but so far not definite.

 

Word is that the nozzle is not a clear section and limits the flow of gas to restrict power. It may just need boring out with a drill stand. Or perhaps the BEST GUN KIT from EVIKE with nozzle is the way forward for future owners.... ?

 

Just thought I would put in a heads up for future TANAKA owners. Glad I got mine already. At the moment there will be some old stock floating around with full power capabilities but could be put luck. I am guessing AICS will be the fastest shipping rifle at the minute and most likely to be restricted at this moment in time. :)

 

I also read on several places that the M40a1 has a different HOP actuator to an older M700 model. Apparantly the small spring is replaced with a rubber section. The barrel is also suppossed to be tighter than older M700 too. Some say 6.04mm as standard but I cannot confirm. A cleaning rod does fit more snug than say a 6.07mm MARUI AEG barrel so very likey.

 

From what i have seen so far of the M40a1 it is impressive and consistant with great handling due to the lightweight stock and shorter barrel. A great bargain considering it is the cheapest one in the range. Far better on accuracy than the KJW M700 I had before.

 

The LTR is now recently discontinued and has a shorter barrel than the m40a1 by around 3-4". REDWOLF still have some instock.

 

Last thing I need now is a silencer adapter and after speaking to another m40a1 owner, the common M700 adapter fits. Great news...

 

Good hunting ;)

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I'm considering buying one of these and then upgrading for accuracy as thats just about all you have to do it seems, but can someone list just whats needed to be fitting?

 

So far it seems just the BGS rubber, which as far as I understand is to improve shot consitancy, but I hear theres also a BGS hop unit you can replace the tanaka one with entirely?

 

Also, the G+G (or is it G+P) power up kit, is this essiential and what does it do?

 

Basically if someone could just lay out the steps to getting these things hitting a head sized target at 50m consistantly it would be very much appreciated :)

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I am no expert but after looking at the m40a1 in stock form and far from run in yet... with plenty of grease/oil still all over the place (despite much cleaning)..... I think as long as your HOP is seated square on; you can pretty much achieve what you are searching for as standard with it.

 

At the moment it can do a mansized target at 50 pretty consistantly...

 

Just don't expect to pick it up and have it driving nails in straight away. I think it is good practice with any new system to give it a bedding in period and run it stock. Then you benchmark what it is exactly you are trying to improve.

 

If you feel you must upgrade then get a TN barrel and BGS kit. I believe you do not need the $50 HOP UNIT if you drill out the old one (see CHEF's guide)....

 

I must say that you will not be dissappointed with a TANAKA rifle and worth the extra cash IMO.

 

Good Hunting ;)

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I'm really starting to develope an urge to buy a Tanaka rifle, but which one should I get?

I probably don't like the AICS as I hate the R-S rifle.

What does that leave me with?

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Bushman... I have been in pretty much every Tanaka known to man or beast of late.

 

The internals of the M40 appear to be exactly the same as those of the M24 (including inner barrel). The little bit of rubber for the hop actuator is consistent throughout the range, the only Tanaka I have seen with a spring for the actuator is my Kar98 (and the takedown M700 which doesnt really count as the hop design is a wee bit different).

 

Anyhows, personally I found the M40 stock to be too light and plasticky (think VSR stock) and if you want something that has a little more 'feel' to it and some character, rather than the AICS, then the M24 is definitely the one to go for. (obviously this is just personal preference).

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Thankyou for clarifying the internals are the same CHEF. I was skeptical. Just shows how much info on the net is wrong <_< .

 

I like the weight of the M40a1 (2745g) and for me lighter is better. Remember my games last 2+ days and I climb trees etc.... As there is no recoil , weight is not necessary to stabalise the rifle.... so to me that just makes it dead weight.

 

As I am used to a gun under 3kg then it is ideal. My old APS2 MK2 Sporter was 2.5kg and as you know a VSR is a touch over 2kg. Carrying a heavy rifle is fine until you consider lugging all your field kit with you aswell. After a day, weight turns into encumberance and that is a handicap. Endurance games will always favour lighter versions of all kit.... not just rifles...

 

Guess I play in a different world to the rest of you guys ;)

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The modification I did to the Hop-Up I posted earlier didn't work the first time out, I tested it with Digicon .30s with the graphite coating and Maruzen SGMs. When spring time comes around I'll try it again, its getting to cold for gas.

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Nice effort spectre328, hope it works out next spring. Obviously I have not opened my own HOP chamber as so far/it is good enough for me. A colleague had to open his, to correct a misaligned HOP and now it runs sweet. :P

 

Maybe you should go back to a standard BG rubber and try to make a replacement actuator instead. As discussed above. Keep trying although very many people claim that the BEST GUN KIT is amazing without modification.

 

Do you rate the Bestgunkit?

 

I'll open my HOP once I run into trouble and look into different actuator shapes myself at that stage.

 

Shows nothing is perfect and people will always strive for more <_<

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Do you rate the Bestgunkit?

 

in short.... YES.

 

was by far better than my G&G rubber set. it suffers from less variance (because the rubber hasnt got much room to move around unlike the standard ones).

 

It does take some modding to fit and I strongly advise a long loading nozzle when fitting it too.

 

IIRC you can buy a full kit from BGS that has the milled out hop unit and the longer nozzle, but its a bit steep cost wise.

 

But, 'if it aint broke, dont fix it'.

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The Best Gun Kit definitely tighten up my groupings at distance along with the TN Tightbore. I need more time to test but its getting cold, I switched out the standard long nozzle with BGS one that came in the kit. The nozzle is not only long but the inner bore is larger and the standard Tanaka nozzle tightens up in the center and then gets larger.

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I just got the Tanaka M700 AICS and have been looking for bits to upgrade it.Ive read through this and its a great help.

Only problem i cant find the TN tightbore in stock anywhere.Anyone know anywhere?

Ive found a tightbore on evike.com,link below

evike tightbore

Anyone tried it and what is it 6.04 or 6.03,it doesn't say.If its good enough i'll order it along with a few BGS hop rubbers.

 

Cheers guys.

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