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What AM bestest Sniper Rifle!!!11one1.


thunderhammer

Shich sniperrifle do you use? (read post first)  

634 members have voted

  1. 1. Shich sniperrifle do you use? (read post first)

    • aps-2 or variant
      37
    • type 96
      105
    • tanaka aics
      51
    • tanaka m700
      56
    • vsr 10 (or variant)
      265
    • kj m700
      19
    • something else, what?
      101


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  • 2 weeks later...
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Ok where to start

 

C/a m24 , felt very heavy ,even with the cylinder set up ,it just didnt feel right and wasnt that good up to 60 metres

 

King arms dragunov , loved this gun to bits ,was doing 45+ fps and good for 65 metres with .28s , i just couldnt get on with the cocking handle

 

Tanaka m700 nice gun small mags 10 rounds and inconsistant as hell ,hated bbs wieghing less than .36

 

Tanaka

AICS , i was once quoted as say "this will be the last gun i ever own when i sell it i will quit airsoft "

I loved this gun to bit and spent £££ on it getting hits out to 85 metres with .43s at catterick and sennybridge , but again in the cold it just didnt perform like a £800 rifle should in my eyes ,G+G hop and springs kit and 6.03 inner barrel ,but some shots would just not do what i wanted fly straight , i miss here

 

APS2 in the form of a m99-a1 barret from pdw , this cost me so much money but a 6mm barret yes i thought , no again could not get to grips with it hop was rubbish and even changing to an areo chamber hop unit still rubbish

 

 

Sun project M40a1 full wood full metal with fixed O-ring hop setup 6.03 inner barrel and 2.3 joule spring my god this was such a nice gun and nasty even out to 70 metres ,i regret selling this but it helped to fund a barret ,it was such a nice piece of kit im looking at buying a Uncompany custom m40xb from them in the next few weeks again at twice these forums limits

 

M14 Tm version

A fantastic stock aeg ,not really a sniper rifle as such but a very good marksmans gun even stock it out ranged most 328 guns out of the box and add a few bits inner barrel gearbox powerups and the full real wood stock ,an m21 is possible to a certain exstent ,

 

My current rifle ,

 

Marauzen L96

Full of pdi goodness inner barrel painted a proper colour olive green , , flashider /muzzlebreak (for those who care)

 

Runs at 5++ fps and loves .28 bbs and .3 digicon straights ,i have had confirmed whackage kills out to 80 metres with very little deviation from the hop ,ok doesnt look as good or feel as nice as the AICS but in my eyes performs so much better ,i know if i aim at something 60+ metres away im sure to hit it in a clear line of site ,

 

spring just a lot more consistant than gas in my eyes

 

i havent tried a tm g-spec /vsr and dont think i will they feel to plasticy for me to light ,i think a true rifle should have the right weight and feel to them ,but they do perfer very very well indeed ,i have friends who love theres and say there great ,but not for me

 

 

 

Sun project m40 for me real wood metal and sold as a rock

 

L96 upgraded

 

AICS and Kingaarms dragunov very close behind

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Now the above is what this thread is all about... Nice one Doc.

 

I agree. Here is my much lower budget rundown of rifles I have owned...

 

APS2 MK2 SPORTER (wooden stock and adjustable HOP UP) This rifle has the best shaped bolt handle out there and is very ergonomic to use. With minimal upgrades by OK and 500fps spring fitted, it was very loud and none to accurate upto 75m. So I changed tack and fitted a PSS2 110% spring (sub 328fps) was still too inconsistant till I modified the HOP to allow more backspin and locked it into position. Performance was good as long as you got used to the rising shots (with 0.30g) or lob shot of the Straight 0.36g pellets. This gun was pretty loud too.

 

I actually hit targets at 65-70m with it (MARUZEN 0.30g) but not as consistantly as I really wanted. Now and again it would drop shots (short). I sold it, as I got an offer I could not refuse :P

 

VSR10 G-SPEC. Bog standard, this gun is great out to 50m max range. I have made some tough shots with Guarder and TM 0.25g and only really had one bad game with it (which was my fault not the rifle). The ability to shoot at players really close and often not be noticed, gives the stock gun an edge over powered up versions (with minimum engagement distance). The silencer is excellent and not a gimmick. The HOP is the best. I also like the light weight of this excellent hunter tool, it's a joy to carry on a 5 day event.

 

TM M14. Again this stock rifle has amazing accuracy with 0.25g (same as the G-SPEC) and good for 50m. Got a memorable shot out of a tree with it. Pretty heavy but makes up for it when you are moving between positions and feel more confident with semi auto (I never use auto on this gun) should you be ambushed. The Hop and control for it are brilliant and make other TM AEG's abit obsolete to try and make a sniper/spotter rifle IMO. Uses same HOP as G-SPEC.

 

KJW M700P. Well I sold my old CAR15 for a good price and decided to make a trip into high powered gas rifle country. The KJW came up at a bargain price so bought one that was on special offer. However, the gun is not a direct copy of the TANAKA original (as had been rumoured at the time) and gas delivery let it down. Shots could vary by over 100fps even if slow fired. The HOP adjuster was more positive and clicked better than tanaka original. Range was achieveable of 100m+ (downhill) although accuracy at that range was very poor indeed. You didn't feel confident to hit targets over 50m. In my game you get few chances, so having a high powered rifle is no good if it doesn't give you confidence to shoot over stock rifle range. Would be good enough for a DM role to accompany a team of AEG's, but not as a lone hunter. I sold it for a nice enough return and reinvested. it would suffice for a player on a very limited budget, after a higher powered stock rifle.

 

TANAKA WORKS PCS M40a1. So far I've not gamed with this but must say once run in this light weight rifle is very impressive on the range. Handles better than the longer/heavier/chunkier M700P original. Can't give you any group size or such but must say, at range I am confident of a mansized hit or taking on a tougher target. Guess it's usable range is 80m+. SIIS 0.30g and G+P 0.28g are pretty good which suprised me at such high power. In the cold it's not as good as warmer conditions (as you know due to gas expansion). I have left it aside over the winter and intend to get it back out when the weather picks up.

 

Lastly I will mention the TM MK23 SOCOM which technically is not a "sniper rifle" but should be mentioned here due to it's excellent characteristics. These being accuracy, gas effeciency and suppressed report. I am saying that this gun is an able substitute for a "rifle" and could be a players primary. All you need to do is get the First Factory scope mounts (not cheap) and you've got a good semi auto 6mm gun able to hit difficult targets (use 0.25g - 0.28g) to 50m. It has the same excellent HOP design as the G-SPEC or M14. This NBB pistol works fine, even in colder weather, as long as you are conservative with your shots. I just try to control my rate of fire, by manually cocking the hammer each time. Having a smaller lighter gun gives you greater mobility, in denser terrain, and sometimes that is the edge you need.

 

Gun choice comes down to the game you play and terrain, etc, etc....

 

My order of preference would be ...

 

1 Tanaka M40a1 or VSR G-SPEC (on a par due to diffo edges/purpose)

2 M14 or MK23 (semi auto and accurate too)

3 APS2 MK2 (great build quality, wooden furniture but poor HOP)

4 KJW M700P (long, pretty heavy and inconsistant, but very cheap)

 

Hope that helps a future purchaser... should they bother to search lol ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

***Last Updated April 29th 2007***

 

No, this isn't a which gun thread, so don't report it. Rather, this is a guide intended to forestall some of those threads. I'll update this guide as the thread progresses, but for now, give me a brief synopsis of various guns, and tell me if you think I'm wrong about something (and why). Without further ado, the guide!

 

Table of Contents

--------------------------------------

Why not an AEG?

Spring section

Budget rifles

Super 9

UTG M324/DE M50

Well Warrior 1/UTG Mk96/BE L96

HFC USR-11

AGM MP001

Kart M40

JG BAR-10

WELL MB-02

High-end section

TM VSR-10 series

Maruzen APS-2 series

CA M24 SOCOM

SVD Dragunov

Specialty/Rare rifles

M82A1

WA2000

Gas section

HFC USR-11 GV

KJW M700 Series

Tanaka M700 Series

--------------------------

 

This thread is for comparing the various sniper rifles. I'll begin by giving the most comprehensive accounting of the various sniper rifle options out there, and compare their pros and cons. Comparisons will be grouped by price range--budget versus high-end, and by power--spring versus gas. I will briefly discuss why I think that sniper rifles should not be electric, and why I think that the proper domain of AEG's is as DMR's, not as SWS's.

 

Why not an AEG?

 

This topic is rather controversial, since the option of full-auto certainly seems attractive for a sniper in trouble. But I will always come down on the side of a bolt-action rifle for a number of different reasons.

 

1. Realism. In real steel, nothing can beat the inherent accuracy of a bolt-action rifle. While in airsoft, AEG's can come close, a bolt-action is still slightly more consistent and accurate, and if you're interested in realism, most sniper rifles ARE bolt-action.

 

2. Stealth. An AEG is a lot harder to silence, since you have to deal with the characteristic gearbox whining noise, as well as the muzzle noise. Stealth is very important to a sniper, so I prefer to stick with a quieter bolt-action rifle, with less mechanical parts to make noise.

 

3. Simplicity. A spring-powered bolt-action is much simpler, and easier to fix in the field when something goes wrong. This circumstance isn't very likely, but it's a much simpler gun, which also means there's less that CAN go wrong.

 

4. The Skill Factor. If you have the capacity for full-auto or rapid semi-auto, you'll be inclined to use it. That means you won't conserve ammunition, and you're more likely to get yourself into situations that require you to fend off large numbers of enemies with full-auto. Basically, those snipers that I've seen using AEG's tend to get themselves into trouble a lot more often. If you have limited ammunition, and low ROF, you're required to be a lot more cautious, and to rely on your skill, fieldcraft, and tactics, rather than your gun. And that, I think, is as it should be.

 

There are plenty more reasons supporting either side of the debate. But I come down on the side of bolt-action rifles, so I will not include an AEG section in this review.

 

Spring Section:

 

Spring powered bolt-action rifles are my weapon of choice for sniping. They are always reliable, regardless of the temperature (unlike gas rifles), and are simple and easy to fix or upgrade. Although spring rifles require more upper body strength to cock, they're the most popular type of rifle for a sniper, who relies on fieldcraft, skill, and tactics, rather than ROF and sheer numbers. There are several excellent options available for those wanting a spring sniper rifle (along with some not-so-excellent options).

 

Budget Rifles

 

There are several options out there for affordable spring sniper rifles. I will provide a brief mini-review on each rifle, and then compare them at the end, with my recommendations, depending on what you're looking for.

 

1. The Super 9/Tac 9, in all of its incarnations.

 

The Super 9 is probably the first rifle that beginner players encounter, since it's cheap, readily available on lower end retail sites and on eBay, which is virtually useless for getting airsoft guns, aside from a few select sellers like evike and ehobbyasia. The Super 9 is supposed to be one of the most powerful stock spring sniper rifles in the budget category, typically listed as shooting over 450 fps. Something to note--those fps measurements are with .12g bb's, which no experienced airsofter uses except in mines and grenades.

 

The Super 9 also has some interesting features. It doesn't have the usual type of magazine, but rather a stick magazine which holds something like 25 rounds, and a rotary magazine, which holds a small number of shells (6, I think), in which you insert the bb's. This feature is very cool if you like realism, since it will eject an empty shell when you cycle the action. The Super 9 also comes with a bunch of extras, such as iron sights, scope mount, scope, bipod, and sling. However, I do not recommend the Super 9 for anything, even backyard wars, for a number of different reasons.

 

The Super 9 and the other UHC sniper rifle series are universally known by the moniker "Craptastic 9," or some variation thereof, due to their relatively horrible performance. It is completely unreliable past 80 feet, which means even a low-end MPEG can outrange it in terms of effective distance (some people have had better experiences, but on average, they have a minimal effective range), and are virtually unupgradeable. That means no tightbore without heavy modification, no cylinder upgrades, no hopup upgrades, nothing.

 

The magazine system is also irritating, because the stick magazine is unrealistic and harder to load than other sniper rifle magazines, and the shells are easy to lose. More, the gun is very toy-like. The build quality is okay, but not great--mostly middle quality plastic, which doesn't have the greatest feel, and the bolt is designed poorly, so the bolt-pull is much stiffer than it should be.

 

All in all, the Super 9 in its various incarnations is suitable only for backyard skirmishes, and even then, there are better guns to get.

 

http://springer.airsoftretreat.com/articles/super9.htm

http://springer.airsoftretreat.com/reviews/super-9.htm

 

I should add that the Super X-9 is significantly better than the Super 9 or Super 9 Pro, and is capable of reasonably good performance (unlike the others, it is accurate past 100 feet, and can take upgrades, like spring and spring guide, and tightbore). However, even upgraded, it's still not capable of the longer range shots that most of the other rifles can make, especially because the hopup is so poor, and it is still very poorly constructed. While it can be a fairly decent rifle (unlike the others, which were basically trash) with enough work, it's still not much good in a larger skirmish. Thanks to Tippman2000 for reminding me that they actually did it almost right on their most recent version.

 

2. The UTG M324 Master Sniper/ DE M50.

 

The M324 is commonly called a VSR-10 clone, although it is actually more similar to an APS-2. However, it isn't actually a clone of either, having it's own internals. The M324 shoots about 350 fps stock with .2g bb's, and has a number of nice features.

 

The M324 comes in 3 colors--black, olive drab, and desert tan. The stock is nice and textured, with very little flex, although the look is somewhat spoiled by the various screw holes. The barrel and receiver are held into the stock by three screws of different sizes. Many people that break their guns do so by screwing the wrong screw into the wrong hole. The gun is not upgradeable with high-end aftermarket parts, but there are custom cylinders that allow power upgrades, various performance enhancing modifications, and a dbcustom 6.01mm tightbore available. Also in the plus column is the cheap and easy Leapers (UTG) customer service, which makes it very easy to replace broken parts of all kinds.

 

The M324 comes with scope mount, bipod, sling, extra magazine, and front accessory rail, which are all very nice touches. The sling is a very nice nylon sling, and is one of the better knockoff slings. In addition, the gun has a silent cylinder--it's about 80% quieter than most other spring sniper rifles, and with the addition of a foam-filled suppressor, is virtually silent. This feature is, for me, the biggest draw of the M324 aside from the Leapers customer service, since it allows for much more efficiency while sniping.

 

It does have some problems in stock form. First, the compression of the stock cylinder is very poor (although much better on the v.3's, which shoot about 400 fps stock), and requires a teflon tape modification to achieve its full potential. The cylinder is sealed, and cannot take upgrades, and the stock inner barrel is both aluminum (and hence lower quality than the brass barrels that come with most other guns), and enormous--a gaping 6.14 mm. This means that the M324 is not great in stock form. It is still capable of decent performance out to 100 feet, but is not effective past that. However, once upgraded with dbcustom tightbore and the teflon modification, it will shoot about 450 fps (perhaps closer to 470 fps with the v.3's), and will be effective out to about 180 feet.

 

Overall, this gun is great for backyard wars (probably the best budget sniper rifle for that purpose, due to the silent bolt), and is capable of competing with stock AEG's in the sniper role, or middle-range sniper rifles. Although it lacks the range of an upgraded high-end or some of the other more powerful budget rifles, the silent bolt, coupled with a suppressor, means that you can take shots from much closer in without giving away your position. In my opinion, that feature makes the M324 a force not easily dismissed, and all in all, an effective and affordable spring sniper rifle.

 

http://www.airsoftretreat.com/reviews/show...duct=104&cat=39

http://echo1og.american-forum.net/Site-Dis...TG-M324-t11.htm

 

3. The UTG Mk. 96/WELL Warrior 1 L96A1/BE L96A1.

 

These guns are all actually different guns, but I'm grouping them together due to their similar price, and the fact that their internals are essentially the same, with a few differences that I will cover here.

 

These clone L96A1 guns are the most powerful stock spring sniper rifles on the market, with the exception of the various SVD models. They shoot about 460 fps with .2's stock, and are also upgradeable (or downgradeable), since the cylinder can be opened. The various models differ in terms of build quality and extras. The UTG Mk96 comes with a bunch of extras, like all UTG guns, such as bipod, scope mount, sling, extra magazine, etcetera. The BE L96 has almost entirely plastic construction, including inner body construction, while the WELL Warrior 1 has metal construction for many of the parts, meaning it is more durable.

 

The major thing that should be mentioned about this gun is that the trigger box is made out of plastic (true for both the BE and the UTG/WELL). IMO, that was a very stupid thing to couple with a 500 fps spring, but these guns are probably not terribly reliable in stock form. Fortunately, the spring is very easy to cock, with a bolt-pull light enough that some have called the spring magical. That's a good sign that the construction is pretty solid. The gun performs reasonably well in stock form, with an effective range of about 150 feet, but the high fps exacerbates inaccuracy problems at longer range.

 

Fortunately, this gun is upgradeable. I do not suggest leaving this gun in stock form, but rather to replace the stock trigger with an APS-2 trigger assembly or an APS-2 L96 zero trigger assembly. The hopup and inner barrel should also be replaced, and eventually you may want to replace parts in the cylinder as well. Since the gun is fully upgradeable with aftermarket parts, it's a great platform for building a fully upgraded sniper rifle, but probably shouldn't be left in stock form. I would suggest this rifle as an option for those wanting an upgraded sniper rifle, capable of competing with the best rifles, but would probably not rely on it in its stock form. The UTG and WELL versions are also probably better deals, as they have stronger internals than the BE version.

 

4. The USR-11.

 

The USR-11 is a fairly venerable VSR-10 clone. And that's right, it is a full clone of the VSR-10, compatible with all of the aftermarket parts. It's got a solid build, and is quite durable, although not as durable as an actual VSR-10. The cylinder can be opened and upgraded by drilling out some pins, and that will increase the FPS from a fairly low stock fps to a more respectable 350+ fps. It can be upgraded with teflon mod and tightbore to approach 430 fps with .2's, without any internal upgrades.

 

Basically, the USR-11 is the option for those who want an upgraded VSR-10, but don't want to pay as much for the starting platform. It can take all the aftermarket upgrades, comes with iron sights, but no scope mount, and also has a gas cylinder available, although there is very little information on the gas version. All in all, the USR-11 is always a good choice if you want to upgrade, but not the best choice if you want a competitive rifle in stock form.

 

Helpful thread: http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index.php?topic=12470.0

 

5. The AGM MP001 Sharp Shooter (sometimes called the JG MP001).

 

The MP001 is one of the most recent clone rifles out of China. Visually identical to the VSR-10, it is nevertheless not a true clone, and is not upgradeable. The only upgrade it can take is a dbcustom or madbull tightbore. However, it makes up for the lack of upgradeability with truly superb performance with a small amount of easy modification, and its ability to take a number of replacement parts from other guns with slight modification.

 

The MP001 comes in three colors--faux wood, olive drab, and matte black. The stock is well-made, and has some of the best fake wood available, which was a surprise. Almost all of the rest of the gun is metal. It shoots 400 fps stock, but with teflon mod, tightbore, and a few other performance-enhancing modifications, can get up to 470 fps on average, and 491 fps if you do a really good job.

 

Stock performance is very good, but not spectacular, with a 170-190 foot effective range, but post modification, this gun is easily capable of 250+ foot shots, which makes it competitive with all but the very best rifles. It does have a very wide inner barrel, at least 6.1mm, but it is made out of brass, and is surprisingly accurate. It is also the cheapest rifle on the market, so if you're willing to take a little time learning about the internals of your gun and working on it (you'll have to spend no more than 5 dollars on upgrade parts), you'll have a very competitive rifle. There is a ton of information available on this rifle on ASR (I'll get links up in a while), and I know this gun inside and out, so if anything goes wrong, I can almost always give you a quick and easy fix. All in all, I recommend this rifle for almost any type of player--beginner or expert, backyard war or full skirmish.

 

http://www.airsoftretreat.com/reviews/show...duct=114&cat=62

 

6. Kart M40.

 

There is very little information available so far on this gun, so I will update as I learn more. Internals seem to be loosely based on the VSR-10, but not an actual clone. It doesn't have magazine compatibility, and finish is rather poor. It is probably not upgradeable, but may still be comparable in performance to the MP001 with modifications.

 

http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index.php?topic=29767.0

 

7. JG BAR-10.

 

The Jing Gong (Golden Bow) BAR-10 is the latest bolt-action sniper rifle (BASR) out of China. It is a full VSR-10 clone, and is definitely the all-around best budget rifle available. The cylinder is openable, and does not require pins to be drilled out, and it has the best finish of any of the budget rifles. The stock is durable ABS plastic with a rubbery finish that's absurdly comfortable to hold, it's a bit heavier than the MP001 or USR-11, and is well balanced. It also has a slightly different bolt-handle that's a bit more comfortable and sturdy-feeling than the VSR-10 handle, and (aside from the safety switch) is made from strong, durable materials. The only issue is that the magazine release is liable to pop out when you remove the barrel assembly from the stock, so you should put some tape over the release button before you take it out to prevent it from popping out. Be sure not to lose the spring.

 

Stock performance is superb, matched only by the AtoZ and KA SVD's and the UTG L96A1, all of which have 450+ fps stock springs and tightbore barrels. This gun shoots about 390 fps stock, but with 5 minutes of work and a little electrical tape, it can be modified to shoot over 500 fps stock (shorten the airbrake and electrical tape the cylinder head nozzle). With it's superior performance and the fact that it has better finish than any other budget rifle (and comparable finish to high-end rifles), this gun is clearly the best budget spring sniper rifle you can buy. It comes in two forms, the non-scoped version with iron sights, and the scoped version, with a scope mount and JG scope (some reports indicate a Tasco, others suggest it's a JG scope that isn't great. Pricing runs in between 90 and 130 shipped. It is also a JG gun, so QC is likely to be very good.

 

http://groups.google.com/group/asgar/web/s...s--new-releases

 

8. MB02

 

I have absolutely no information on this other than that it is supposed to be a clone of the GSPEC. I'm hoping that someone (like born2rocknblaze ) will pick one up and review it for us...

 

This concludes the budget spring sniper rifle section.

 

High-end

 

If you want upgradeability, reliability, and a great upgrading platform for building the ultimate SWS, chances are that you will go with a high-end rifle. There are a number of excellent choices available. I haven't gone too much in depth on these guns because there is a ton of information available, and each of these guns is a good choice. You can't go wrong, no matter what you pick, so it really comes down to preference in looks and feel. Here are some of the more popular guns. Review links from the "Looking for a Sniper Rifle Review" sticky on ASR.

 

1. Tokyo Marui VSR-10 line.

 

The VSR-10 includes three different models: The Pro-Sniper--the first variation, which may be distinguished externally by its iron sights and longer barrel than the GSPEC, and lack of weights like the Real Shock; the Real-Shock, which is essentially like the Pro-Sniper except with weights to provide more authentic recoil (and the model that the USR-11 is based off of); and the GSPEC, the most recent and updated model, which has a shorter barrel, no iron sights, but comes with scope mount and silencer. At any rate, they all take the same upgrade parts, so I'll group them together here.

 

The VSR-10 is one of the most popular rifles for building an upgraded SWS. It is based loosely off of the Remington M700, but doesn't actually completely resemble any real steel rifle. The VSR-10 shoots 275 fps with .2's stock, so in today's day and age, it really must be upgraded for most play in the US. There are a multitude of places to buy upgrade parts from, and they are all usually readily available. Build construction is very good, although the VSR-10 tends to be a bit lighter than other high-end models (the GSPEC weighs about 2kg), which gives it a bit of a toylike feel. Price range runs around 160-200 USD, with GSPEC's usually being more expensive.

 

The major draws to the VSR-10 series are their reliability, the ready availability of aftermarket parts, the hopup (which is one of the best on the market), and, in the case of the GSPEC, the functional suppressor, which makes the GSPEC one of the quietest rifles on the market. The VSR-10 also tends to be the cheapest alternative for a high-end rifle, which has made it also one of the most popular. All in all, the upgraded VSR-10 is a formidable airsoft SWS, and is always a good choice.

 

PS:

http://snowman.ascuk.net/vsr10.htm

http://64.124.25.51/vsr10.htm

 

GSPEC:

http://www.airsoftcommunity.co.uk/forums/i...pic=25705&st=20

http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/topic...?TOPIC_ID=47852

 

2. The Maruzen APS-2.

 

The APS-2 has 5 versions--the Original Version, Sniper Version, EX, Type 96, and the rarer MkII Sporter version. Again, the internals are essentially the same, although the L96 has it's own upgrade parts. These guns are heavier than the VSR-10 series, usually around 2.9kg, and shoot about 285 fps stock. Price range runs about 240-350, with the OV and SV being the cheapest, and the EX being the most expensive (aside from maybe the Sporter.

 

The APS-2 is one of the most popular rifles to fully trick out, and is usually the base for custom retail rifles. It is very reliable, has very solid build, and also has a multitude of aftermarket parts available--probably more than any other rifle. Although it typically is more expensive than the VSR-10 series, it's also one of the best options available for an upgradeable sniper rifle. If you're thinking about getting one of these, go for it. You won't be disappointed.

 

SV:

http://www.airsoftcore.com/reviews-54.html

http://www.airsoftplayers.com/aps2/aps2_1.asp

http://www.floridaairsoft.com/reviews/aps2sv/

L96A1:

http://www.airsoftcommunity.co.uk/forums/index.php?

showtopic=19093&pid=243245&st=0#entry243245 - post #3

http://www.floridaairsoft.com/reviews/type96/

Mk2 Sporter:

www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/reviewpost/showproduct.php/product/80

 

3. The Classic Army M24 SOCOM.

 

The CA M24 is also a very popular rifle, although they aren't as common as the previous two rifles. It is based off of the M24 SWS, and is finished VERY well. It's one of the most solidly built rifles, weighing in at 3.6kg, and shoots 280 fps stock. There are two versions, the military, which has a fluted barrel, and the civilian, which doesn't. It comes with swing swivel mounts and integrated scope mounts, and of course the signature adjustable stock. The CA M24 also is a fairly pricy rifle, usually costing around 300 USD.

 

I do want to mention that the CA M24 has a reputation for being a bit finicky, mostly because the hopup requires a good amount of adjustment to work properly, and because the hopup also is easy to knock, so that you have to keep adjusting it. You can solve this problem primarily by replacing the adjustment pin, which is the smallest piece in the gun, with a small piece of wire, and by also replacing the pin. You can also dial it in to a specific range, and then use some clear nail polish to keep the hopup fixed.

 

It also has a very stiff trigger pull when you put in high-power upgrades, so you'll definitely want a zero trigger system to cut down on the stiffness of the trigger pull. However, you can also sand and lube the sears, and that does a lot to cut down on the heavy weight trigger pull.

 

There are still a good amount of upgrade parts available for the CA M24, although it is harder to find upgrade parts than it is for the previously mentioned rifles. This rifle is a great project gun, because it does take some work, but once you get it up and running, it's easily one of the best SWS platforms, and is one of the best feeling and looking rifles on the market, IMO. If you want realism, the CA M24 doesn't feel like a toy at all--it's a great replica of a great rifle.

 

http://www.airsoftretreat.com/m24.asp

http://www.planetairsoft.net/review-m24.htm

 

4. The SVD Dragunov (Atoz/KA/KM)

 

For those of you looking for Soviet weaponry, look no farther. The legendary SVD has been reproduced in full metal/wood, with excellent out-of-the-box performance. The KA usually has faux wood instead of real wood, although some models do come in full wood (although that may have been because of owner modification). The internals are great, with solid full-metal goodness. The SVD is the most powerful stock rifle on the market, shooting almost 500 fps stock, and also has the enviable addition of a stock tightbore, which means NO upgradeability necessary. It is listed as taking AEG upgrade springs, which do fit, but don't really give power upgrades, unless you use a spacer, since the AEG springs are too short. Shortyusa does apparently have an upgrade spring available, however.

 

It does, however, weigh less than the M24, weighing in at only 2.7kg. Another problem is that the gun is HUGE, with 590mm inner barrel, and is just beastly long. This means that it's not really terribly useable in skirmishes because it's a real pain to camouflage. In my experience, it sticks out like a sore thumb. Still, I can't fault its performance. The hopup is excellent, and it shoots very well. Also, it's one of the best sounding rifles on the market, with a really intimidating metallic Ka-CHUNK noise when you cock it. It's a good buy, but not the most skirmishable gun. It does cost around 500 dollars, with the cheapest one being at www.gunnerairsoft.com (about 420 shipped), but it's one of very few options available if you want an SVD. The TM and JG SVD conversions look terrible, the G&P is hard to find, and the PDI is even harder. Although this gun lacks semi-auto like the others, since it's manual spring cocking, it's still one of the best options for those wanting an SVD. Basically, you should only get this gun if you really must have an SVD.

 

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/reviewpost/.../cat/all/page/1

http://www.unconventional-airsoft.com/info...ion/atozsvd.php

 

There are a number of other good options available, but I don't have any experience with them, and they aren't as popular, so I haven't included information about them. I'll update this post with the best posts about the other rifles, however.

 

This concludes the spring rifle section.

 

Specialty/rare rifles

 

1. The M82A1.

 

If you want an anti-vehicle rifle, and you have the spare cash, you can shell out about 1200 USD for an M82A1. This rifle shoots 8mm plastic ammunition, which is the largest airsoft bb, and fires at a reasonable 400 fps on average. Not much to say about this rifle, since I don't have much experience with it, except to say that it's really cool, and if you have the expendable income to get one, you'll be envied everywhere you go.

 

The are a couple different M82's in production, including the Smokey's Gunworks spring-powered version, and a VFC gas-powered version. Here some information about the Smokey Barrett M82A1, compliments of Falcon_Maximus from Arnies:

 

The Smokey Barrett M82A1 is a Full Metal Gun that is no longer produced. It is a Spring Rifle (so no semi-auto like the real steel version, unfortunately) which uses 8mm BB's that are fed in Brass .50 BMG Shells (the Shells are automaticaly ejected after the Shot). It has a stock power of 1.04 Joules (about 400 fps) but can be upgraded with APS-2 Springs up to SPR380 (but you need a spacer though).

 

The Gun is acually 9 cm longer than the real steel model (which seems to be because of the barrel). It produces a recoil that is comparable to a .30 caliber semi-automatic rifle, which is a very cool feature. The hopup is adjustable. It is handmade in Japan, and costs about $2740 at WGC and weighs 7.1 kg.

 

2. The WA2000.

 

Yes, that's right, Geneth and Asahi have both made replicas of the WA2000, made famous as Weber's rifle in Rainbow Six. It's a gorgeous weapon, made from full metal and wood, and weighing in at a hefty 5.2kg. It shoots at about 285 fps, has a 25 round capacity, and is basically one of the most gorgeous looking rifles out there. It's hard to find, and typically sells for about 1500 USD. If you get one, I'll hate you forever (just kidding), since it's such a rare gun to see on the field. I do really want one, so I thought I'd mention it. But you won't find much information about it.

 

Here's a brief description of the Asahi WA2000, which is one of the most rare airsoft guns ever, also compliments of Falcon_Maximus:

 

It is modeled after the famous German Walther WA2000 Precision shooters rifle (so it's something like the father of the PSG-1). The rifle went out of production in the 1980's because it was too expensive and nobody bought one, although it was the most accurate rifle ever produced! It was released in 1993 and came in 2 versions, standard and deluxe.

 

Only 250 Asahis WA2000 were produced, making it an extremely rare, and difficult to find gun. 125 of them were the Standard Version, and 125 of them were the Deluxe Version which came with a silencer and a fluted barrel.

 

It uses an "electro-pneumatic gearbox" and features an effective range of about nearly 100 yards. Some users have claimed headshots at 80-90 yards with upgraded versions! It shoots 410fps with 0.43g BB's (that would be 600fps with 0.2g BB's!) The gun uses a external Gas-Tank as most Classic guns do!

 

It is no longer being built (the productions stopped YEARS ago!) and if you want to get one, talk to SniperX at www.classicairsoft.net is the best way to go. Cost runs about $2500, making this one of the most expensive airsoft sniper rifles.

 

Link to the Geneth version:

 

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airs...il?prodID=10961

 

Gas section

 

This section is in progress, but if you have information about this that you'd like to have included, I'll edit in the best response. Thanks!

 

1. HFC USR-11 gas version.

 

Very little is known about the gas version of the HFC USR-11. It costs about the same as the spring version, averaging around 120-130 before shipping. This rifle is essentially the same as the spring version, but it has a gas bolt. That means that it looks the same as a VSR-10 Pro-Sniper, although the build quality isn't quite as good, and it is still compatible with VSR-10 upgrade parts, such as barrel, hopup, and magazines, although you obviously can't replace the cylinder and trigger assembly with VSR-10 parts. Well, you could, but then it would just be a normal USR-11.

 

The rifle shoots somewhere around 400-450 fps with .2's in stock form, and is reasonably accurate, with an effective range of probably about 160+ feet. Gas is stored in the bolt, not in the magazines, so you can use whatever spring magazines you want. You fill the bolt the same way you would fill a pistol magazine. The gun is reportedly quite accurate, and is the cheapest gas sniper rifle option. Owners have reported a few issues, including poor stock finish, poor standard barrel, tight fitting magazine well, and poor standard magazine, but overall, it seems to offer good bang for a very cheap price (for an airsoft gas rifle).

 

http://www.airsoftcommunity.co.uk/reviews/...duct/43/cat/all

 

2. KJW M700 Series.

 

There are a couple versions of the KJW M700, the regular version and the takedown version. Cost generally runs about 200 USD, and it's reportedly a very good rifle. The takedown version is reported to have gas leak issues, so it's not recommended, but the M700 series, which are clones of the Tanaka M700, are hard-hitters, shooting around 450 fps with green gas.

 

3. Tanaka M700. (Mini-review by Joker8Baller, with additions from The Crimson Falcon)

 

Tanaka is probably the biggest heavy-weight when it comes to gas guns. They're well known for their reliability, build quality, and performance, although they're also pricier than their HFC and KJW alternatives. The Tanaka M700 typically costs at least 300 dollars, with an average of around 350 shipped.

 

The M700 line includes several variants:

 

M700 Police Model

M700 Police Model Camoflague Version

M700 Takedown Version

M700 Light Tactical Rifle

M40A1

M40A1 Woodland camouflage version

M40A1 fake wood stock

M24 SWS

M24 SWS Fluted Barrel

AICS Green/ Black/ Tan

 

It performs nicely, with a varying FPS from the low 400's to the high 500's, and even to the low 600's on a nice warm day in California. The Tanaka M700 currently comes in 2 main versions. Pre-ban, and banned. The banned versions come with a flow restrictor limiting the FPS the bb is shot at, because of a new Japanese law. However, this version comes with a fixed PCS valve, as the pre-ban do not.

 

Tanaka has an "export" version, where no flow restrictor shall be put on, and the PCS bolt shall also be added on.

 

It shoots about 250 feet accurately with .34bb's, with the PCS almost fully open, but about 1/5th closed. Max tested range is about 300 feet, perhaps a tad more. Performs well, with an easy adjustable hop-up that is located just in front of the built-in scope mount.

 

Build quality is great. It's on par with the CA M24 spring rifle, and kills every AEG I've handled. It's got a nice heavy weight to it, and it feels like a rock.

 

The main problem right now is the lack of a replacement hop-up, and the null manufacturing of the Best gun kit... Many people have had trouble after a while with the hop-up, and no such replacement exists. Hopefully the new export versions will have replacement hop-ups, but for now, upgradeability is limited. This is probably one of the only drawbacks to an otherwise superior gun.

 

Tanaka K98 series.

Anyone want to help crimson falcon fill in some of the blanks on this guide?

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  • 4 weeks later...

New update to be edited in--got more info in on the BAR-10. All the best,

 

Crimson

 

7. JG BAR-10.

 

11314422140.jpg

 

The Jing Gong (Golden Bow) BAR-10 is the latest bolt-action sniper rifle (BASR) out of China. It is a full VSR-10 clone, and is definitely the all-around best budget rifle available. The cylinder is openable, and does not require pins to be drilled out, and it has the best finish of any of the budget rifles. The stock is durable ABS plastic with a rubbery finish that's absurdly comfortable to hold, it's a bit heavier than the MP001 or USR-11, and is well balanced. It also has a slightly different bolt-handle that's a bit more comfortable and sturdy-feeling than the VSR-10 handle, and (aside from the safety switch) is made from strong, durable materials. The only issue is that the magazine release is liable to pop out when you remove the barrel assembly from the stock, so you should put some tape over the release button before you take it out to prevent it from popping out. Be sure not to lose the spring.

 

Stock performance is superb, matched only by the AtoZ and KA SVD's and the UTG L96A1, all of which have 450+ fps stock springs and tightbore barrels. This gun shoots about 390 fps stock, but with 5 minutes of work and a little electrical tape, it can be modified to shoot over 500 fps stock (shorten the airbrake and electrical tape the cylinder head nozzle). With it's superior performance and the fact that it has better finish than any other budget rifle (and comparable finish to high-end rifles), this gun is clearly the best budget spring sniper rifle you can buy. It comes in two forms, the non-scoped version with iron sights, and the scoped version, with a scope mount and JG scope (some reports indicate a Tasco, others suggest it's a JG scope that isn't great. Pricing runs in between 90 and 130 shipped. It is also a JG gun, so QC is likely to be very good.

 

http://groups.google.com/group/asgar/web/s...s--new-releases

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thread tidied.

 

LETS KEEP THIS TO *REVIEWS* ONLY PEOPLE.

 

if you have a question/comment about a particular rifle, stick it in the correct section, not in here.

 

Ollie... Seeing as the BAR10 is a VSR clone, just stick the VSR scope rail on it. They are about $10 from WGC.

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Tanaka M700 Series, including M700, M24, M40A1, AICS and LTR

 

In this review I shall cover the M700, M24, M40A1, AICS and the Light Tactical Rifle (LTR) and touch upon the Take-Down model, because they are all basically the same. We shall start with the differences between the models. The receiver, bolt and trigger mechanisms are identical between all the models and the differences lie in cosmetic details in the stocks, barrel lengths etc.

 

The basic M700 Police Model is a full stocked copy of the Remington Model 700 rifle. It has a solidly constructed ABS full stock that is very comfortable to use. The wide forearm and grip provide an excellent balance when it is in the hand. The matt black and slightly stippled finish gives a no nonsense feel to the rifle. The stock has little or no comb and can benefit from an aftermarket cheek piece. The Barrel is a long length tapered design.

 

The M24 is a similar design to the M700 stock, but features an adjustable butt plate on a screw mechanism. This adds a wonderful air to the rifle. The Barrel of the M24 is also shorter than the M700 and features a bull style barrel.

 

The M40A1 and the LTR share the same basic stock, the M40A1 having a plastic ABS camouflage pattern stock and the LTR having a wooden stock. The stock is much lighter than either the M700 or M24 and is considerably thinner around the grip and forearm. The forearm is also shorter than the M700. In my opinion the thinner parts make this stock feel a little uncomfortable and weak in the hand. I am also non too keen on the Camouflage pattern on the M40A1 stock. It doesn’t seem suited to European climes and looks a tad plasticky. It has the short bull barrel the same as the M24.

 

The AICS stock is just wonderful. Thumbhole stock is perfectly ergonomic and it comes with an adjustable comb and butt plate spacers so you can adjust the length of the butt and get the correct eye relief for your scope. It has attachment points for both Harris and Parker Hale style bipods. This is the heaviest of all the stocks, made so by its aluminium core construction surrounded by green ABS (just like the real steel version). If you don’t like heavy guns, then this is definitely not for you. The barrel is the short bull version the same as the M24 and M40A1.

 

The build quality of the rifles is simply very good. The external components have a good finish and are well machined with very few if any machining or mould lines.

 

The receiver and bolt assemblies are identical for all models (excluding the take-down). The bolt action is truly sublime and offers smooth yet solid movement. The cocking action is so light it can be done with one finger alone. There is little rearward movement needed to cycle the bolt and reload another round into the chamber making this a perfectly stealthy operation. It is also much faster to cycle through a magazine load of rounds than if you were using a heavily upgraded spring powered rifle. Just what is required for a sniper platform. You can also see if the rifle is cocked by looking at the small button on the rear of the bolt.

 

The newer models from Tanaka come with their PCS (Power Control System) bolts, which allow you to adjust the power with each shot. It is a simple mechanism to adjust, by removing the bolt, loosening a small grub screw and then turning the power bevel that controls how much gas flows with each shot. This is very useful in controlling the variation in gas pressure when working in different temperatures and also allows your to Chrono down to cater for the limits of your site. We have been able to get our Tanaka’s down to around 300fps when using HFC134a and way over 500fps when using Green (propane).

 

***edit to this review***

The newest versions of Tanaka Rifles come with the restricted Nozzle and are in the region of 1J power to conform with new Japanese legislation. There is rumour that export versions still come with the PCS, but this is not confirmed.

The restricted ones can have the nozzle changed to bring the power levels back up.

 

The internal components, while sufficient, can be prone to problems. Over tightening of the receiver bolt can cause the internal parts to crack. Whilst this is replaceable it is still annoying. Care is needed when re-assembling.

 

One of the weaker areas in terms of performance is the hop unit. Whilst the design is a simple hop rubber that protrudes into the barrel, which is actuated by a readily accessible adjuster on the top of the receiver, it does suffer from inconsistency and many Tanaka users see this as the major failing point of these rifles. It can be overcome with patience and a few tweaks and when it is working properly the rifle can consistently hit a torso-sized target at distances of 60+ metres.

 

Interestingly the KJW version of the M700 has a more AEG style hop unit, which should be a simple job to retrofit to the Tanaka.

 

The Take-Down version has an internally mounted hop actuator and can only be accessed when the rifle is taken down.

 

There are two types of magazine for the range, the original 10 round capacity mags and the new long type 29 rounds capacity mags. Both work on the same principle of storing the gas in the magazine and both types will happily take Propane without any modification. They are solidly constructed and fit snugly into the magazine recess. Their only downside is their considerable cost.

 

The gas capacity will easily cover the amount of rounds in the magazine, and on some occasions it will manage two loads, but good practice is to fill up the mag with gas when you reload it with ammo.

 

One idiosyncrasy of the Tanaka is that you cannot remove or replace a magazine whilst the bolt is in its closed position. Annoying at first, but it becomes second nature after a short while.

 

The long mags will fit in all models of the Tanaka range, but only the long mags can be used in the AICS.

 

There have been noted reports on power inconsistency with some of the AICS long mags. Quite what this is due to is unknown at this stage, although things are pointing towards a misalignment of the valve knocker and impact plates. The G&G power pack, which replaces the Knock arms and Plungers in the magazine are a good way of overcoming this issue. In the same pack, you also get an upgraded striker spring and steel cocking piece which has a slightly longer spring travel. This again improves the striker movement which will counter this problem.

 

Like all gas-powered equipment, the cold does adversely affect the Tanaka’s. I have found that anything much below 5 degrees centigrade and the consistency and power does drop off to a point, which can make the Tanaka ineffective.

 

As far as upgrades go, the first thing you should add to any sniper rifle is a tight barrel. I went for the First Factory 6.03 tight barrel and this seems to accomplish the job perfectly. It tightened up the groupings noticeably. The next set of additions were the G&G improved hop rubber and nozzle seals and the G&G outer barrel with the built in silencer attachment. The outer barrel has the added bonus of being solid along its entire length, thus acting as one long barrel spacer, locating the barrel firmly in check. Added to this is an SR15 type QD silencer, which has a phenomenal effect upon the signature of the rifle. Without the silencer there is an audible crack as it is fired, hardly surprising with the power it can kick out, but with the silencer in place, it is reduced to an almost inaudible thud.

 

In skirmish terms, this slight thud can make you almost undetectable, especially at range. Plus in the event of there being AEG fire nearby, the shots fired from the Tanaka will be masked completely.

 

Despite the weight of the Tanaka it is still a thoroughly useable platform for skirmishing. The downsides of the inaccuracy are easily compensated for by the stealthy nature of a silent gas powered easy cocking rifle.

 

On the subject of replacement hop rubbers. The AICS has a slightly different hop rubber design and its profile is much squarer than the earlier versions. This is also repeated in the barrel aperture (its much more like an AEG barrel, rather than having a round hole for the hop rubber). In my opinion, this is a much better design and is probably better than the G&G improved hop rubber. So if you have an AICS or the same hop rubber as the AICS, then I wouldn’t recommend the G&G version.

 

There is another hop rubber on the market made by Best Gun Shop (BGS) and thus far I have only seen it for sale at www.evike.com (very over-priced) or direct from BGS.

 

This is much more akin to an AEG hop rubber than the original Tanaka version and having fitted it to a number of errant Tanaka’s I can say that it is a worthwhile upgrade.

 

It does require some modification to the hop housing, but anyone with a modicum of technical savvy and a few good tools can accomplish this with no trouble.

 

.If you can sort out the Hop, this is one hell of a beast.

 

Looks: 7/10 (AICS 10/10) The build quality of these rifles is immense. They look and feel the part. The AICS is a dream. In my opinion, the best looking and feeling sniper rifle on the market to date.

 

Reliability: 7/10 A few minor inconsistency problems bring this otherwise faultlessly operating gun down.

 

Upgrade-ability: 7/10 There isn’t actually much you need to do to this gun. The bits that are available work well and look good. Cheap to upgrade is always a good thing.

 

Use-ability: 9/10 Once the inconsistency is sorted out (if it needs to be) then this is just a truly amazing bit of kit to use. Super quiet, accurate enough to be useful and great cocking action mean you’ll need never been seen.

 

Overall: 9/10 The slight inaccuracy (compared to the VSR) is the only thing that stops this being a 10.

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Tokyo Marui VSR-10 Pro-Sniper

 

More many months I had heard of people bleating on about the Marui VSR series of sniper rifles and how damned ‘uber’ they were. After a very disastrous affair with a Maruzen APS-2, I was somewhat sceptical about the performance of this spring powered bolt-action rifle.Then one day a noob comes onto the site with a Pro-Sniper and being the cheeky chappy that I am I proliferate it from him for a game or two.

 

‘Shocked’ and ‘Surprised’ are the only two words I can use to describe the experience.

 

Despite my pathological hatred of spring powered bolt actions I promptly went out and purchased one for myself.

 

It didn’t stay in stock form for very long (the same fate happens to all of my kit) and it was soon festooned with snacky new parts.

 

The Pro-Sniper was upgraded with a 6.03 tightbore barrel, nineball hop rubber, barrel spacers, LayLax high pressure piston, Laylax cylinder head, M1*0 spring, Laylax spring guide, Laylax spring guide stopper, Laylax piston sear and a Laylax trigger sear.

 

In addition to the internal upgrades, I added a weaver rail and stuck a red-dot reflex sight on.

 

Looks wise I am not overly enamoured with the VSR, the small lightweight stock feels a bit fragile and too plasticky for my liking, similar to the Tanaka M40 style stock I find the forearm too small and the grip too thin. This is not to say its not useable because it performs its function very well indeed, I just prefer something with a bit of heft to it. The extreme light weight of this rifle just doesn’t inspire me with confidence.

 

That said, the build quality is good with no noticeable seam lines on the stock, the barrel and receiver are well blued and the fit is snug and solid.

 

Take down of the VSR is relatively simple, with two screws holding the stock onto the receiver and after this a fairly logical breakdown of the individual components.

 

One point to note, when upgrading a stock cylinder with a new spring, there is a small pin in the cylinder head that needs to be drilled out before the head can be removed. This can be a fiddly process and should not be attempted unless you have some decent tools.

 

When rebuilding the rifle, I suggest that you wrap a small amount of PTFE tape around the threads of the cylinder head to ensure a fully airtight seal and repeat this process around the hop rubber onto the inner barrel.

 

Performance wise, this rifle is a star. While the M1*0 spring is reasonably hard to pull back to cock the rifle, its not unduly difficult (as was the case for my APS). The cocking action will undoubtedly disturb your firing position and potentially cause enough movement to give away your position when concealed. It is a great defence piece, when you don’t have to factor in concealment.

 

With the upgrades, my VSR crono’s in at a healthy 487fps with a 0.2g BB, although for preference I use 0.36g Straight BB’s when skirmishing with it. Once the hop was set correctly I removed the hop adjusting lever because I found I kept knocking it whilst skirmishing, screwing the hop just when you didn’t need it.

 

The VSR is phenomenally accurate for an airsoft rifle, probably the most accurate. This can only be due to the design of the hop. At 30m I was easily achieving 6” groupings, and possibly even tighter during a good run. In skirmish terms this meant that given a small target I could be assured of achieving a probable hit. So those pesky little heads that poke up over the parapet were no longer safe. The range of the rifle is also very good, with torso sized targets being well within the capability of the VSR at distances of 60-70 metres.

 

The audible signature of the VSR is relatively quiet, although the thwack of the spring can be heard if you are a lone sniper. Once AEG fire is added to the equation, you will find that the muzzle crack of the VSR will be masked quite easily.

 

The magazine for the VSR holds around 30 rounds and this should be more than enough to keep you well in the game. As a sniper piece, I doubt you would ever need more than one spare magazine.

 

Overall, this is a very capable piece and its relative cheapness bring it favourably into the realms of a starter piece for the fledgling sniper. It’s reliable, accurate and useable.

 

I would definitely recommend one, especially to the person who does not want to have to keep fiddling with his gun to keep it shooting straight.

 

Incidentally, HFC now do a copy of the VSR-10, ingeniously named the VSR-11. It is a direct copy of the Marui and comes in at $99. It will take all of the standard upgrades so could work out as a cheaper base for a good top end rifle. There is also a gas-powered version for $130, which considering the KIC gas cylinder conversion for the Marui one is $145 also seems like a steal.

 

There are also a number of Chinese Clones now available, the JG BAR-10, the AGM MP-001 and some others.

There are variable reports on how compatible these clones are with VSR parts, so please check before spending.

 

Looks: 5/10 – too light and plasticky for my liking (but its like a marmite thing).

 

Reliability: 7/10 – a few minor cocking problems, but nothing serious.

 

Upgrade-ability: 10/10 – more parts than you can shake a sh!tty stick at. You want it, you’ll find it somewhere (apart from a decent stock that is).

 

Use-ability: 7/10 – phenomenal accuracy, let down by being spring powered which gives away your position when cocking.

 

Overall: 7/10 – if it was gas powered and had a decent stock this baby would be a 10. Even though I still prefer my Kar98, the VSR is my main choice when skirmishing purely from an accuracy point of view.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello,

 

I'm new to this forum but not to airsoft or sniping:

 

 

Great thread, very interesting to see how the non-uk loves the '98. I've tried two but like all the gassers i've come across, they lacked fps consistency & therefore accuracy.

 

Love the feel & look of all the tanakas but as said, I've not figured out how to get 'em to shoot straight :( . (Despite many months & $!!)

 

For me the question is more about which sniper is best for the environment being played: If the site is cqb & allows 300fps then the aforementioned mk23 is realistically as good as it gets. On the other hand if you have a few acres of open scrub & **0fps then the choice opens a little :D .

 

So, these are my top snipers & where I use them:

 

Starting with the mk23. I use a bog standard one of these as back up when sniping in open urban areas. V. accurate & sooooooo quiet.

 

Stti silent assassin (cheapo mk23 copy). This is a very over looked cheap & nasty. I dropped a 303mm 6.03 lalax g-spec barrel into mine (run through a socom silencer) & get **0fps & 12" groups @ 50m with .36 digicons!!! Great for aeg back up at a site local to me which allows 328aeg & 400 single shot!!!!

 

AEG's.

 

I've spent a fortune & ages trying to get the perfect aeg sniper & it just never seams to happen. Main problem is fps inconsistency. They seam fine fully auto, but one ya go semi, (which the sites I play require) the fps tends to wander from shot to shot by about 10fps.

 

The only aeg 'sniper' I have at present gives 12" groups at 60m (semi) with guarder high precision .28s(next best thing & cheaper alternative to maruzen .29sgms). **0fps, 455x6.03m lalax barrel, ICS turbo 3000 motor & gears. This is the very best I've had out of an aeg. Top accuracy improver was the madbull silicon (clear) hop rubber which bought fps consistency to +/- 3 fps each shot.

 

I haven't stated 'which gun' it is, because I have run this same collection of internal parts in several models & the 'shape' of the gun has obviously made no difference to accuracy!!

 

Has anyone else noticed how accurate maruis aeps are :huh: ? Under 260fps yet they fly straight as an arrow for at least 35m! Very quiet with a silencer. Just a shame people can't feel 'em when they hit! :rolleyes:

 

 

So down to the 'proper stuff'.

 

My vote goes to the vsr. Actually lalax pss10.

 

I have 2 with very similar internals.

 

One is a stock exterior g-spec with zero trigger etc & a 430x6.03mm barrel. With a **0m spring & .29sgms this gives 8"groups @ 70m.

 

The other only has four 'original' marui parts on it; the metal hop housing, the two white plastic bushes inside the bolt receiver & the metal housing to the rear of the bolt receiver!!! This has a 480x6.03mm barrel (chopped down 555, bigger ain't always better!). This one is slightly more accurate & more gas efficient: 7"groups @ 70m & achieves approx 2% fps increase over the other one, with the silent shaft in. (the other has silent shaft removed to increase fps).

 

Fps variance on these is +/- 1. I have tried them with a **0 spring getting fps over 650 :waggle: (no good at any of the sites I play). Interestingly with .29sgm's the accuracy & range was not improved. I had to use .43 digicons to get better results, but although long range was improved (90m+), the 50-70m got worse! I think this was down to digicons less precise shape & if sgms came in .4ish, the best of both worlds would be achieved.

 

Bottom line:

 

Tightest grouping @ 500ishfps @ 70m,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Lalax pss10.

 

 

Sorry to bore ya. :Zzz:

 

 

Greg.

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