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Pendra

The L96 guide

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With at least 2 threads totalling 72+ pages it became a bit hard to keep track all the info about the L96 clones. Here is my attempt to compress all the information into 1 single post :D

So I assembled plenty Warrior1 L96A1s. All came from gunnerairsoft.com

I've got 4 early versions and 3 newer versions. The difference is the content of the package. The newer versions come with a quick loader with spec head and a long rod. It is not good for cleaning the barrel but it may be usefull to clear a jammed barrel. For the cleaning, I use a CYMA ultra long cleaning rod.

The plastic is fair. A bit shiny and pretty easy to mark or scratch. On the other hand it feels strong enough. The seamlines are not bad at all, even compared to a Maruzen L96.

The sub structure of the Warrior1 is metal (The BE supposed to be plastic). All the screws, screwholes and critical attachment points are metal. Except for the piston head where the self taping screw "drill" into the piston itself. Also the trigger house is made of plastic, but the small screws have matching metal counterparts. No self tapers there.

Lets get into the upper part:

L96 upper part

 

And now exploded

L96 upper exploded

To get to this point you would need to remove 3 screws. 2 from the trigger house, 1 from the mag catch. Also remove the cylinder guide. The cylinder guide is the black metal part that sticks out from the cylinder. It is not screwed in. You need to use brute force to pull it out. There is a nice aspect of this system: You don't need to take the gun apart to remove the cylinder! Take down the cheek rest and pull the guide (there is a hole for that in front of the trigger). After that you can simply slide out the cylinder, then slide back later.

 

To take the cylinder into pieces you need a flat screwdriver and a nub key (number 3 IIRC).

Back part disassembly

 

Ease the nub and remove the screw. Take down the bolt section and you will see the cocking indicator rod as well.

Back part exploded

 

If you separate the back section and the bolt section you will see this:

Bolt rotating preveter pins

Note the little brass piece and the spring on the picture. Also the pin thingy inside the left part. Those are the same parts. The gun comes with 2. But it seems it can work with only 1 installed into the corresponting hole. Insert the tiny spring, then brass part. It will theoretically prohibit the bolt rotating. However some claim that it works without any of those parts installed.

It is important to check the correct placement any time you disassemble that part. They can fall out and start to move around inside the bolt. After that the bolt will not sit well and start to rotate around.

 

Cylinder head removal

To remove the cylinder head you need a pair of pointy pliers. It is actually pretty simple.

 

Exploded 2:

Cylinder section exploded (stock)

All the original internal parts. Note that the screw on the back side of the cylinder is NOT standard. The mechanic, who made my new cylinder, decided to attach the back part and the cylinder this way. The original is tabbed onto the back part.

Also I unscrewed the piston head. You need a cross headed screwdriver to do that.

The spring guide, the piston and the piston head are plastic. There is an extra rubber part on the top of the piston head. The stock power averages around 440 FPS. Little more, little less. Pretty strong gun, but the pull is VERY light! Chinese miracle spring, defying the laws of physics. My advice is to apply some grease onto the O ring for better air seal and FPS improvement.

 

Internal compatibility:

Stock (upper) VS Upgrade parts (lower)

The upper pieces are the stock, the lower are the Type 96 upgrade parts. Guarder spring, K2 spring guide+piston set and Guarder piston head. Note the different diameter of the springs. This means you can't mix and match the stock and the upgrade parts. However the cylinder is fully compatible, so you can insert the upgrade parts without problem.

SPECULATION: The Bolt section seems to be new type and the 10mm version.

 

Barrel section disassembled:

Hopup exploded

 

The barrel is NOT standard AEG barrel! It seems you can modify standard AEG barrels for the Maruzen type hopup unit, but you need skills and high quality machines to do so.

On the other hand, it seems like a standard Type 96 barrel (SPECULATION!)

To get it out from the unit, use a pair of pliers and unscrew the part on the bottom of the pic. There are 2 "rings" on the barrel. Both are important. The 1st thin one is there to push and lock the barrel into the hopup unit. The 2nd wider one is to prevent the rotation of the barrel. On my version it was broken :(. On my early version the whole barrel was inserted upside down (in 2 different cases)!

To open up the hopup lever, remove the nub screw with the included key. Push the lever down and remove the elliptical ring.

There is no small rubber tube under the lever and there is no need for it. In case you find the gun under hopped no matter what you do, you may insert a thin silicon wire piece. That will push the rubber deeper into the barrel and hopefully fix the hopup issue.

 

Hopup again

The hopup rubber is NOT standrad AEG bucking and there is no way you could mod one to fit! The cut on the top of the rubber is should be visible. You should see it centered underneath the hopup lever. Note the brass ring. It is in front of the hopup rubber. I guess it prevents the BB-s damaging the rubber. It should be inserted before you push in the rubber.

 

Now into the trigger unit:

Trigger house (not my pic)

(image and idea by Renegadecow)

There are 3 screws that hold the 2 halves together. "Only" the house is made of plastic. All the internal parts are metal. Inside there is plenty of space to reinforce the plastic! Use hot glue and apply plenty of glue. I pushed 2 whole sticks into it! Add some around the important holes (like screwholes). You need to be a little more carefull around the moving parts. You don't want to glue them into the house ;). I must admit, that the plastic house is pretty solid after the fix. 3J, 800 BBs through it and not a single crack on mine. I don't keep the gun cocked for extended period of time, thou.

 

The trigger itself:

(by stealthbomber)

Trigger parts (not my pic)

 

Now some word about the mag catch:

Mag catch faliure prevention

It is fixed onto the gun by 1 screw that goes into the hopup unit. Therefore, if you rotate it around slightly, you will rotate the hopup rubber, too!

That is a fragile part. Sometimg a metal tab breakes out, leaving you with an unusable gun. It broke on my first L96 right at the first day. After that, I added some insulation tape to fix it. On my 2nd L96 I didn't wait for the break. I applied 1 layer of tape. It is the green thing over the black metal.

Note that some L96 owners have a different mag catch problem. For some, the mag is too tight, for others the mag is too loose. There is not much you can do about it. In case of a loose mag, you can apply some layers of tape to tighten up. My 1st L96 was loose. The mag never sit stright in the magwell. The front side was OK, but the back side was out all the time. However it did not cause any problem, other than cosmethical.

In case of a tight mag, well use a dermel and remove some material.

While at the mags. It CAN use Maruzen mags and the W1 mags work in the Maruzen! I tested that on my last game. The capacity is around 24 BBs and you can load it with quickloader. You need the pistol loading head (included).

 

It seems all W1 L96s comes with 2 defects:

Non-functioning cocking indicator and empty mag indicator.

 

The cocking indicator fix goes like this (by Renegadecow or stealthbomber):

Cocking indicator (check the screw length)

This is the piston assembly. You see a short and a longer screw on the right side. The short is the stock screw. Replace it with a longer one! For some reason I have plenty of same diameter but longer screws around so I guess it is a common type. Also, you will need to dermel the long black rod (the spring is missing on the pic, but should be there). You should make is slighly narrower. It is a tight fit in its stock form. It frequently stucks. When you assmebly the cylinder section, tighten the back screw all the way, then ease it by 0.75-1 turn. After that tighten the nub screw.

 

The empty mag indicator:

(Pics by... uh I forgot, but not me)

You need to split the body by removing all the screws across the body. I was told that the body is not glued. The gun should have some hidden pins which hold it together even after all the screws have been removed. You need to be carefull with those. I didn't separate the body so I can't confirm that.

 

Empty mag indicator fix (not my pics)

 

Empty mag indicator fix (not my pics)

 

Empty mag indicator fix (not my pics)

 

Empty mag indicator fix (not my pics)

 

So remove the cover plate tha right side of the magwell. Remove the spring, cut some coils off and put it back. But this time, it should push the plastic part DOWN, instead of up. You may want to paint the indicator red. Easier to notice.

 

Some upgrade note

I installed a PDI Type96 hopup unit:

PDI chamber

It allows the use of regular AEG barrels and hopup rubbers. I decided to get a Prometheus 509mm barrel. The installation of the PDI unit is not that hard, but the cylinder head is not compatible with it. I had to dermel the nozzle a lot to make it fit into the holes on the PDI unit. You will need to shorten the cylinder by around 1mm using a dermel. Every time I cock the gun I hit the hopup unit pretty hard. The screw that holds the mag catch has deformed a lot. I use the 2nd screw and even that has something like an S in it. That makes extremely hard to take it out or screw it back.

 

509mm barrel

As you can see it is slightly longer that the outer barrel. Also you can't fit the stock outer barrel cap. I decided to get a KA silencer adapter. It covers the barrel just fine even without a silencer added. You just need to remove the O ring from the inside of the adapter.

 

Now to the bipod:

This gun should have a bipod :)

You can use a bipod adaper pin (25$)

Or make one (by stealthbomber)

Bipod pin DIY (not my pics)

 

Or attach an MP001 bipod onto the hole on the bottom of the front section. You will need to increase the diameter a bit. I use a small cross headed screwdriver to remove some metal. After that I hammer in the rod with the |_| section on. Then add the big black plastic part and tighten the big screw. There is a button on the bottom part, that block the quick attach of the bipod. I usually push it with a flat screwdriver. After that you can slide the bipod to the gun.

Sometimes the screw is not long enough. In this case you will need to remove some material from the black part like this:

(not my pic, cant remember the poster's name)

In case of short bipod screw (not my pics)

 

There are rumors about L96s that come with 6.04 stock. I can't comfirm this, but it seems the newer W1 L96s are much more accurate (when assembled correctly) than the older versions.

I think that is all I could think off. I hope it makes the decisions easier!

 

EDIT removed the pics and used links instead.

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thanks for the hard work.

so the "metal sub frame" isn't the only difrance between the warrior and the BE

take a look @ this BE piston and head (pict form the L96 thread, i don't recall the poster)

BEL96Cyl.jpg

and the one pendra posted

L96-07.jpg

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With at least 2 threads totalling 72+ pages it became a bit hard to keep track all the info about the L96 clones. Here is my attempt to compress all the information into 1 single post :D

 

tx. this will be printed to go into my ref file folder :D

 

how about following up with a tips & trick section in this thread? :mellow:

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Note that some L96 owners have a different mag catch problem. For some, the mag is too tight, for others the mag is too loose.

I didn't need to try it on mine so I can't confirm the results but it has been suggested that by loosening the grub screw that retains the outer barrel and then screwing the barrel in or out one full revolution, has the effect of decreasing or increasing the length of the magwell.

 

Great guide Pendra - a very useful resource

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The magwell also becomes tight if you don't have the outer barrel on perfectly straight.

 

And the BE cylinder pic is of mine, it completely lacks the cocking indicator as far as I can see.

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Just made some FPS tests with mixed upgrade parts:

Stock spring, stock spring guide, K2 metal piston with Guarder piston head, PDI Hopup unit with KM RH65 chamber and Prometheus 6.03 509mm barrel.

Actually, the BE head on the pic looks exactly like the Guarder piston head.

I used 0.3 degicon and my gun averaged around 415 FPS.

Just the 6.03 barrel and the piston head made the 0.4J boost.

While at the piston, you CAN'T install the guarder head onto the stock W1 piston. It is an all rubber, snap-on version not a part plastic part rubber screw-on one.

I seems the BE piston assembly has better airseal and better upgrade potential.

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first off, this is a great guide PENDRA !!

 

also how much force is needed to remove the cylinder head from the cylinder??

 

i seem like im going to break it if I turn it any harder + i hold onto the bolt for leverage and it feels like that might snap also

 

but i did get to fix my empty mag indicator without having to split the stock in half :D

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first off, this is a great guide PENDRA !!

 

also how much force is needed to remove the cylinder head from the cylinder??

 

i seem like im going to break it if I turn it any harder + i hold onto the bolt for leverage and it feels like that might snap also

 

but i did get to fix my empty mag indicator without having to split the stock in half  :D

 

 

The head should come off easily. At least mine did. Have you checked to see if you have one of those "locked" cylinders? There should be a screw or pin on the side of the cylinder at the head.

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My version screw off easily as well. Firm grip on the cylinder a little force on the pliers and the head is off. Yeah check for the lock screw on the side.

 

Also: you CAN fix the empty mag indicator without splitting the gun. I took a X headed screwdriwer head from a electric driven screwing set. It is short enough to fit into the body and good to ease the screws holding the cover plate. After the you can remove the plate and the spring, push the indicator down and insert the spring again. After that put the plate back.

 

It seems the white box Warrior1 is phased out. Instead you get a nicer looking (who cares anyway) box with DE markings. The content of the box is unchanged. Even thou the box shows 410-430 FPS, it is, in fact, shooting around 450 like the regular Warriro1. Mine did 480 after cleaning and greasing.

 

The trigger house holds well under extreme stress. 3-3.3J upgrade, 1500+ BBs through mine and no crack or extensive wear.

 

You can fix the BBs steer to left or right, by rotating the outer barrel gently into the opposit direction.

 

There are reports about zeroing problems. If you set the aiming cross all the way to one direction, yet the BBs still not hitting the center, then you need to add some shimming. In case the BBs arc to the side, instead of flying straight to the side, then it is hopup or wind related problem!!!

- If the gun shoots HIGH, higher the center of the scoope even after it has been set all the way up, then remove the rail and add a washer between the FRONT screw hole and the rail. I use a washer came from an AEG spring guide. Or you may consider turning down the hopup ;).

- If the gun shoots LOW, lower the center of the scoope even after it has been set all the way down, then remove the rail and add a washer between the REAR screw hole and the rail.

- If the gun shoots LEFT of the center of the scoope even after it has been set all the way left, then remove the top of the scoope's forward bucking and stuff a thin nail, or a thin piece of wire to the right side of the scoope. Then put the top of the bucking back.

- If the gun shoots RIGHT of the center of the scoope even after it has been set all the way right, then remove the top of the scoope's forward bucking and stuff a thin nail, or a thin piece of wire to the left side of the scoope. Then put the top of the bucking back.

In each case, Don't forget to tighten the screws afterward! After that you should be able to set it corretly.

 

You can remove and replace the cylinder without taking the gun apart. Force down the cylinder guide which you can find in the hole in front of the trigger. Remove the cheek piece and the cylinder will slide out. Putting it back looks like this: Pull the trigger and push the sear forward (small metal thingy inside the receiver). I use the bigger hex screwdriver to hold it down. Release the trigger and push in the cylinder. After the cylinder clear the sear push it all the way in, push in the cylinder guide, put back the cheek piece and you are good to go.

 

And I made an alternate solution to the hopup issue. Have someone ot drill a hole exactly over the place where the lever pushes the hopup rubber. Thread the hole and drive in a screw. It is not that elegant, but much much much easier to set the hop right. Especially if you happen to have a PDI unit.

 

I think that is all for now. Oh, and I still love my L96A1 :D :D :D

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Hi, I'm new to these forums and I just had a quick question to ask:

 

Have any of you ever used a JP hopup and inner barrel from Den Trinity?

 

If so, would you recommend it or not?

 

tnaps6020.jpg

 

If not, what type of AEG barrel would you recommend for the PDI hopup chamber?

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Thanks, great guide. It's been added to the Sniper links on my google group as well, good information. I thought that there's also a difference between v.1 and v.2 warrior 1's in that the v.2's come with a stock 6.04mm tightbore? Is this accurate? If you don't know how to test, btw, you can drop the same bb down both barrels if you have access to a v.1 and a v.2 and time it. But I know the UTG rebrand is supposed to have a tightbore, and I would like to be sure that the v.2 Warrior 1 also does. Any more information on the build quality?

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Sirs

 

I just purchased the gun and have used it on one skirmish.

 

My role will not be as a sniper, but as a sharpshooter in a team dependent on mission objectives.

 

So I am happy with the "bang for the bucks"

 

Norwegian rules of fps is 550, 0.2 bbs for bolt action.

 

Since I am not a dedicated sniper I only want to upgrade the spring to 550.

 

Please advice.

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so What part sticks out as the cocking indicator? the black rod?

Yes.

 

Sirs

 

I just purchased the gun and have used it on one skirmish.

 

My role will not be as a sniper, but as a sharpshooter in a team dependent on mission objectives.

 

So I am happy with the "bang for the bucks"

 

Norwegian rules of fps is 550, 0.2 bbs for bolt action.

 

Since I am not a dedicated sniper I only want to upgrade the spring to 550.

 

Please advice.

Advice?

 

Find a different forum to ask about this.

 

Discussion of upgrades above 1J is not allowed here.

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Hey Pendra, I stumbled across this a few days ago and it has been of immense help! Thank you so much for writing this, I couldn't have fixed my L96 without it. I just finished cleaning the cylinder today and after I put it back together I noticed that a small spring and brass peg was still left over. The bolt also rotates after cocked. So where does this peg go? I can't find anywhere to put it. Thanks for your help!

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great guide, good job! this will help a lot of people out there.

 

like you, i learnt by working on them (on my second one at the moment!)

 

however, i didnt find a problem with the PDI hop unit like you did...

I installed a PDI Type96 hopup unit:

The installation of the PDI unit is not that hard, but the cylinder head is not compatible with it. I had to dermel the nozzle a lot to make it fit into the holes on the PDI unit. You will need to shorten the cylinder by around 1mm using a dermel. Every time I cock the gun I hit the hopup unit pretty hard. The screw that holds the mag catch has deformed a lot. I use the 2nd screw and even that has something like an S in it. That makes extremely hard to take it out or screw it back.

 

mine went in, no machining needed on the cylinder head, and works flawlessly.

 

i did however have to re tap the mag catch hole on the unit, after i cross threaded it :rolleyes: , but an M4 screw is a better hold on it now than the smaller one (M3 i think)!

 

again, good work!

 

shmook

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Hey Pendra, I stumbled across this a few days ago and it has been of immense help! Thank you so much for writing this, I couldn't have fixed my L96 without it. I just finished cleaning the cylinder today and after I put it back together I noticed that a small spring and brass peg was still left over. The bolt also rotates after cocked. So where does this peg go? I can't find anywhere to put it. Thanks for your help!

 

Anyone?

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Cheers Pendra, this is a really useful guide, Im positively terrified at the prospect of going inside my L96 trigger bits, but atleast now if i do out of boredom ill know how to get it back together!

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