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Jing Gong G36C Review!


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Im not sure if you said it already, but is point act USA based?

 

Utah, USA based.

 

As to the other questions, just another vote towards 'not shiney' and 'solid stock.'

 

Honestly, it's one of the most solid folding stocks I've seen on any AEG--then again my experience has only been with underfolder AKs and sidefolding Sigs.

 

It locks closed with an extremely sturdy 'CLACK!'

 

My JG G36 got a ton of use as a loaner this Saturday, and it performed extremely well. Accurate, reliable, and simple.

 

That being said, my full stock CYMA 028 might be pulling ahead as my favorite owned clone. Stuck a stock TM barrel in it, an element hop, metal bushings and shims, and it is beyond impressive. It shoots hard and fast--but most impressive is how amazingly accurate this clone AK is. The range is greater then my Tokyo Marui M4 ever had--falls short of the SOCOM, but not by enough margin to feel like 300 dollars (including upgrades!) less gun.

 

Clones are awesome--I'm a believer.

 

Steve

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Um yeah.....longer inner barrel given other things being equal will do that.....

 

That CM.028 is a pretty nice gun though.

 

Not necessarily--my accuracy experience with AEG's has put less of an emphasis on barrel length and more on consistency of internals/hopup/bucking to produce accuracy.

 

Steve

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And why would you consider all things equal when I was discussing a Tokyo Marui M4 with a CYMA Ak47? I still fail to see how my observation that my CYMA AK, on the whole using rougher and less-quality parts then my Tokyo Marui M4, is noticeably more accurate--can be explained with simply stating that longer barrel = more accuracy.

 

Steve

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Are we talking about the same thing?

 

Your CYMA as you mention it:

Stuck a stock TM barrel in it, an element hop.................how amazingly accurate this clone AK is. The range is greater then my Tokyo Marui M4 ever had

 

The gears between that CYMA and TM M4 have no impact on where the BB goes. The AR latch doesn't. The nozzle and pistonhead? Eh, as long as they seal, they don't affect the BB flight path and accuracy. The M4 should have a Type1 cylinder if it is stock, while the AK has a Type0. As long as there are not leaks between the respective cylinders and cylinderheads, the air will get pushed out and the flight path is not directly determined by those two components. Neither the piston, spring, or spring guide either. The BB doesn't care what parts are in the mechbox, as long as there is a good seal so the proper air volume is behind it. So what's left? The barrel and hop bucking, along with the quality of those.

 

Go get a stock TM M4 and a stock TM AK47. See which one shoots farther and with more accuracy at a reasonable engagement distance. Want a better illustration of that? Get a stock TM MP5 and a stock TM G3. Those will have essentially equal parts with the difference being barrel length. That is all I'm saying.

 

If you have been saying the barrel bore and hop bucking make a difference, then yes, I agree. But if you take the same barrel bore and same quality hop bucking side by side between two different length barrels, the longer barrel will have a range advantage and an accuracy advantage at an engagement distance.

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I understand everything you are saying and agree with it for the most part, and certainly understand the relationship between range/velocity/barrel length, and understand the limitations too much generalization have when talking about a smooth-bore round-projectile 'fire'arm like an airsoft gun.

 

However, in my experience with working on AEG's, I have found no cut-and-dry equation to what the sum of parts equal an accurate AEG.

 

There is another part of this puzzle that I have not told you yet, and that is that the entire front assembly (outer barrel, handguards, hopup, barrel--) used to be in a different 028... my first 028, an S model that I had warmed over in a like manner to my newer 028. I decided I wanted the TM barrel and element hopup in the full stock gun, as with the larger battery it served me better as a loaner then the limited 028s, and swapped the front assemblies.

 

In the older of the two guns, the 028s, the front assembly with the element hopup never impressed me much. The accuracy was lacking in my opinion, and shot consistency left much to be desired. However, when I mated this assembly to the newer rear assembly--keep in mind that both assemblies have nearly identical FPS's--the combination worked incredibly well. That is the part that I cannot explain fully, since I did not replace any other component on the front end during the swap. I didn't clean the barrel, I didn't replace the bucking, I just swapped it over to the other body. See why I am confused with the result?

 

The accuracy equation with AEG's has much do to with the relative location of all necessary parts. Perhaps I had assembled the parts less well in the first gun, or manufacturing tolerances made for a better match in the second one.

 

Perhaps my point would also be better illustrated by mentioning that I find my stupid CYMA 028 to have better range and accuracy then guns with *more* inner barrel length and *more* velocity. I have fired a nearly stock CA M15A2 that was less consistent and had a poorer hopup trajectory then my 028.

 

OR! I built an 031 for a friend using an element hopup, guarder bucking, tightbore barrel (think KN?), a little over 1j and we even got our hands on a TM V3 gearbox and gears, and the resulting gun shot well, but still not as well as my slightly warmed over 028.

 

Maybe the point I'm making is that I have seen a large degree of accuracy and range variance between similar if not identical AEG's, especially when they are from one of the chinese manufacturers.

 

I know all of this is anecdotal evidence, but it is the best I have to offer.

 

Steve

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Fair enough, mate. Not trying to sound dismissive, but we could go back and forth all night, and still basically be saying the same thing. It seems we are on the same page, and yes, I agree that there are small things that can cause two apparently identical AEGs to do slightly different things, ranging from a bit of oil/debris on a hop bucking to a small bit of injection molding flash on a bucking or BB or a chamber to stiffness of a bucking to flex in the gun and then to different brands of BBs.

 

I have fired a nearly stock CA M15A2 that was less consistent and had a poorer hopup trajectory then my 028.

Hehe, that is where one could ask if the CA had the typical rubbish stock CA hop bucking still intact. :D

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Fair enough, mate.  Not trying to sound dismissive, but we could go back and forth all night, and still basically be saying the same thing.  It seems we are on the same page, and yes, I agree that there are small things that can cause two apparently identical AEGs to do slightly different things, ranging from a bit of oil/debris on a hop bucking to a small bit of injection molding flash on a bucking or BB or a chamber to stiffness of a bucking to flex in the gun and then to different brands of BBs.

Hehe, that is where one could ask if the CA had the typical rubbish stock CA hop bucking still intact.  :D

 

 

Are they supposed to be junk? It wasn't my gun, I'm generally pretty compulsive about stuff like the condition of the rubber in my guns.

 

Just out of curiosity, what has been the breakdown of the most accurate AEG you have used?

 

Mine has been my Tokyo Marui Socom 16--thing is a tack driver. Virtually no variation between semi auto shots in the lateral field on a windless day. Just counteract for bb drop, and I always seem to hit the mark. Simply awesome.

 

Steve

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Historically, the CA hop buckings can be "lemony". Some are ok out of the box, and others are basically like the rubber off your car tire and don't work worth a damn. Saw one out of the box that was so grossly out-of-dimension that it jammed in stock condition. Replaced it and the gun shot just fine.

 

Most accurate AEG I've used? Hmmm.....out of the box? Probably the TM M14. Excellent range for a stock AEG with very consistent flight path. In fact, best range I've seen from a stock gun. As far as accuracy, yeah, it was at the top of the heap, but I don't have raw test measurements to quantify that unfortunately.

Upgraded AEG? I'd say my rather powerful TM-based SVD is dialed in pretty nicely. Pretty darn consistent, as I've been able to hit guys between gaps in cover from roughly 55 yards.......gaps between 55-gallon drums sitting next to each other......gaps were 3-5" wide, taking somewhere about 4-5 shots to adjust for wind and general variation in gun accuracy. Done it more than once also as Opfor kept moving to the same cover. For some reason, they weren't learning from their mates' mistakes. ;)

For a well-tuned AEG sniper rifle/DMR, I don't that is anything too special, but solid enough to hit targets pretty easily in field conditions.

Again, I don't have any raw test measurement data to objectively show. Perhaps something I can put together in the near future pending free time.

Edited by AustinWolv
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If you buy the JG g36c from gunner airsoft, does it come with the original black flash hider? How about stores in the USA?

 

Not sure about purchasing the U.S but when i got mine from RSOV it came with the original black flash hider and an orange cap.

 

edit button gone, but another question: does the material for the body appear to be the same stuff as CA(fiberglass? nylon?) or TM(ABS?)?

 

It's ABS plastic like the Marui one, only for the price I'd say the JG is better, quality is is just as good too.

 

I believe that the version 1's had some mechbox issues with the bushings being a real tight fit, with very few after market ones fitting. i think the version 2 fixes this problem.

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edit button gone, but another question: does the material for the body appear to be the same stuff as CA(fiberglass? nylon?) or TM(ABS?)?

 

SRC, TM and JG uses ABS for their G36s.

STAR and CA uses Fiber Glass/Nylon for their G36s.

 

I have both, the JG G36C and a CA G36.

Having handled a TM G36C, i'd prefer JG finishing.

 

Anyway, although JG finishing looks close to CA fiberglass, it feels a bit plasticy (inherent to the ABS construction) while the CA feels like the real deal.

 

My G36s:

cavsjg800mn5.jpg

 

JG Pistol Grip against CA receiver for comparision

cavsjgdetailed800td9.jpg

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so basicly all aftermarket G36 parts for the TM will fit this? cool

i was doubting alot between this or a JG beta, but i had to give in to the AK craving ive had for a while, might have to pick one of these up for a MG36 project in due time though...

Edited by sturgis
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Just got hold of a brand new JG G36 last night, I must say I'm impressed. The body isn't quite as nice as a CA but it's to be expected.

 

This is what I've done so far:

 

Externally:

15mm Silencer

CA side rail

G&P 10.8 volt 3300mah PEQ

 

Internally:

CA metal bushings

CA cylinder

CA tappet plate

CA swiss cheesed piston

M3 piston head fixing

Systema Bearing spring guide

Guarder SP100

Reshim

 

Rewired with Mosfet and Deans connectors.

 

Guarder Clear hopup rubber, Prometheus 6.03 x 363mm M4 barrel

 

 

All the internal and external mods came from my spares box and I’ll make a £10er back from the battery, all in all it was a bargain and makes for a very decent backup; better than most people’s primary.

 

 

 

Ice

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