folks. Thought you might like to see what I’ve been up
F7? F7 = 7 inch barrelled
Full Auto Infinity. I am still buying Infinities left,
right and centre, I have one F3.9 Full auto that I fitted
a metal slide to, but then an opportunity arose to purchase
a second F3.9, so I bought that too. I decided that as
I had a SpeedComp barrel handy, that I could make a 7″
…..well I guess F7 you could call it. I made a mould
of the front block, cast it, joined them together to make
an appropriate length barrel shroud to take into account
the new longer 7″ barrel.
Bulldog? SV Bulldog = Also, ref. the WA Bulldog
– well it appears that these are on short supply (500 production
run) so I decided to make my own.
Starting with a Full Auto F3.9 as a base. Once again using the
moulding for the extended front block of the F3.9, joined two
together, cut it back to an appropriate length, then I hand
cut chequering into the front using needle files, and boy was
I cut down
the pistol grip as per the Bulldog, so that the smaller mags
now fit in too. The gun was originally a full auto,and this
I did not want, so I removed the internals and replaced them
with semi auto parts, also I changed the beavertail to a working
extended variety and switched to ambidextrous safeties.
If I had wanted a “true” Bulldog replica, I would
need to cut down the frame and barrel….”what”, I
hear you cry….”and lose that velocity ??” ^_-
Bulldog piccies: (update June 4, 2002) Here’s
some more piccies of Matt’s glorious ‘pocket rocket’:
the meat tenderiser? Want to know where the origins
of the Bulldog/Beretta Centurion Etc come from….well at least
that idea for the muzzle block anyway.
Imagine this……..Without the “meat tenderising block”
in place during ‘very CQB’ it is possible that if the muzzle
(of most autos with a full length slide for that matter) is
pushed into the opponent, that the slide will be pushed out
of battery and thus unable to fire due to the disconnector cutting
Try it yourself
with a cocked unloaded gun. Push it into a pillow etc (simulating
your *ahem* opponent) with enough force and the slide will move
back slightly – when the trigger is pulled the hammer will not
drop whilst the slide is slightly back. In real guns this is
to stop the gun firing without the cartridge case being fully
supported by the chamber (think of the very high pressures involved).
prevents the slide being pushed back by accident. The chequering
is indeed for extra damage/grip.
a picture circa SHOT SHOW 1996 of a real SV Infinity that was
customised by ZM weapons *I think* , it has a muzzle block,
hammer shield and ‘skull crushing’ extended mainspring housing.
It was made as a prototype for the SEALS to try out. I wonder
if they did….?
SV Infinity Prokiller 2000F+ Well
here it is, basically, I put the long inner barrel from
my Prokiller 2000 6″ into the Prokiller Mark 2 F3.9
Full auto pistol, thus giving me higher velocities of
the PK 2000 on full auto.
was an about an inch of inner barrel poking from the silencer
when I originally fitted it to the F3.9, because the PK
Mk 2 F3.9 is essentially a 5″ gun and the PK 2000
is a 6″ gun. I needed to make an longer “outer”
silencer shroud which would slip over the PK’s silencer
to cover this extra inch. I constructed one cut from the
magazine tube of a Marui Benelli Shotgun. It was just
a tad too tight to fit over the Prokiller 2000’s silencer,
so I slotted the bottom, prised it open to a fraction
to a bigger diameter, then filled the gap using Cyanoacrylate
adhesive. Thus now it was a perfect fit (with a strip
of masking tape to protect the “inner silencer”
as it slid on”. Of course a suitably sized hole was
drilled in the muzzle end. The silencer was then sprayed
with cellulose satin black.
I do know
that 2 months after I made this gun WA announced that they were
releasing the Prokiller 2000F which is basically the same gun…..D’oh!
Mind you, my barrel is still an inch longer :P