Hissing_Sid
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Posts posted by Hissing_Sid
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No it isn't, I post mainly in Off Topic, and I managed to get over 700.
Well done.
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Ok, so I've got this baby for a full week now. On last Saturday, I gased it up, and today I noticed that it seems to have some leak around the ends because the rim is a bit moist on either end. I'm not too sure how bad this is at this point.
Well, first thing to do is empty the gas into pistol mags.
Then drop the gas charger into a bowl of water to see how it's leaking.
I'm surprised people are saying the actual cannister is leaking. I would have thought only the top and bottom valves would be sources of leakage.
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...and were fired from a range of about ten feet, then decreasing as I walked closer to the target, eventually firing point blank.
You mean you walked forward until you could actually hit the glasses?
Seriously, interesting stuff.
Must admit, I'm not keen to shoot my nice new V-Force mask in case it marks the fancy iridium colouring.
So I shot it from thi inside.
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Sid- Any chance of a photo of the naughty grip safety.. and what piece was filed back to improve( actually, make working again) the Grip safety?
Or was that in combination with the 3-leaf-spring tine that connects with the grip safety?
I really do want the bloody safety to work!
The leaf springs are fine although you might want to have a look where they fit, up near the hammer, as SOON as you remove the spring housing. That way, if the leaf spring plate falls out (and it probably will) you'll know where the various prongs go.
The pin that holds the spring housing in place is at the base of the grip, at the rear. You'll be able to push this out by hand, using a small screwdriver or allen key. You won't need a hammer to knock it out. It's not that tight a fit.
READ AS WELL AS LOOKING AT PICS
Note that you can check the function of the grip safety without the hammer cocked. Even with the spring housing removed and the hammer down (point the muzzle at the floor to ensure the hammer doesn't flop back and cock) all you need to do is lightly pull the trigger with your left hand while using the right hand to gradually move the grip safety to see where it engages.
Also, and very IMPORTANT, I found that it's possible to pull through the grip safety if you've only just about removed enough material. Once you pull through it you, will need to remove even more material before it'll engage solidly again.
Anyway, on with the pics...
This pic is showing the surfaces that have to be filed. Note that the bottom surface of the grip safety has had the paint removed simply to tidy it up cos I scratched it while filing the back of the tab. You could just stick a bit of duct tape over that surface to protect it. Me, I'm either gonna leave it as is or, if I can be bothered, I'll touch it up with a bit of model paint.
This pic shows how it all looks from the side. The red lines show the surfaces to be filed and the green line, on the spring housing, shows the original edge. I actually cut the plastic away using a stanley knife and then just tidied it up with a file.
Finally, I would like to clear up a bit of wrong information.
Since I saw the gun on Friday night I've been scared about touching the "stickers" on the slide. I was worried I might rub them off.
I looked at them more closely this morning and.... drum roll.... THEY ARE NOT STICKERS.
The "OPS MRP CAL.45" markings are definately laser-etched on. They are not stickers or paint.
Snowman was looking at this same gun for his review and said they were painted on. It really IS difficult to tell but I can promise you that they are etched.
They're done in the same way as the Trades on an ICS M4. Probably laser or acid etched.
This, of course, means that you couldn't just remove them using paint remover if you wanted to have your own trades engraved on the slide.
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Well...
I've only played with a mates metal KJW P14.45 for a short while so I dunno if it has any quirks but I think, in all honesty, I'd prefer it to any HiCapa.
At least the P14 looks like a combat weapon. The HiCapa looks too much like a race-gun for me.
With hindsight I should have got a P14 instead of this but, at the time I bought it, nobody else had one so I thought I'd get it just to be "different".
[edit]
Don't want to sound too negative about the HFC HiCapa. It's a good gun and, as I say, it's removed any urge to buy a WA 1911 and then spend a fortune on metal bits for it. I like it but it's just not my usual style. It's a bit too fancy for me really.
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Dammit! You keep making me double post.
Dunno.
Not sure I'd recommend any HiCapa. They're something of a paradox. People who are real .45 lovers won't want it cos it's not a real gun. People who truly just want a practical skirmish gun would be better off with a G19.
It's all about choice.
I must admit, I reckon I'd probably choose to put something else in my holster for most skirmishes.
That's not as damning as it sounds though. I mean, you can only ever shoot one rifle or one pistol but that doesn't stop us all buying sackfuls of guns, does it?
It's a nice, cheap gun. No more, no less.
In fact, It's VERY well made. It's actually more of a looker than a shooter.
Which reminds me, somebody asked about the sights earlier. They're cast into the slide, even though they look like they'r in a dovetail. The rear sight looks like it's adjustable but I haven't tried to twiddle it yet.
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S'funny, yet again I find myself forced to say that nothing I've yet seen comes close to my G19.
To use the medium of phonetics to make my point...
This HiCapa Kinda goes Blat (gun fires), Clack (slide hits rearward position), Shhhclunk (slide returns forward).
My G19 just goes "BLAT!" and it's ready to shoot again.
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Despite all the talk of CO2 usage, I've yet to actually see a CO2 mag available anywhere.
Must admit, though, I haven't looked that hard.
Thing is, the recoil wouldn't be improved by running it on CO2 as is. It's the return stroke that's slow.
You'd need to fit a stronger spring and THEN run it on CO2 to make it cycle properly.
Don't get me wrong. I reckon it's a decent gun. If somebody gave me a £500 full-metal WA Para I think I'd still prefer my G17. I figured I ought to have a .45 of some sort and I like metal guns. This fits the bill perfectly without costing a fortune.
Check back later for full-metal DE hardkick. Parts on the way. Oh yeah!
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Couldn't have been misaligned. The tab which sticks down from the bottom of the grip safety, and wedges behind the hammer spring housing, was too thick.
With the grip safety tab pulled back hard up against the spring housing the gun would still shoot.
After I filed some of the thickness off this tab I found that the grip safety worked.
TBH, I found that it is still possible to pull through it though so I've also now filed a small amount off the top of the spring housing.
All in all these mods mean that the grip safety is probably sitting about 1.5mm further back than it was and now the grip-safety is rock-solid.
I took the frame to bits as well and I DID notice that there were burrs on all the cast bits of the hammer assembly. In an ideal world I would have taken the hammer mechanism to bits and filed all the lumps and burrs off the various surfaces but 1) the mod to the grip safety worked fine and 2) the hammer mechanism seems to be very complex for a single-action gun.
Only other thing that's bugging me now is the tacky paint on the outer barrel. I'm seriously considering bunging it in a lathe and running a bit of emery cloth up and down it to give it a pukka "spun" finish.
Oh, and the box DOES have a copy of the same "OPS MRP CAL .45" trades and some stuff like "HiCapa super accuracy" as well. Just no brand names.
Mine seems to lock back securely enough that the recoil spring might be improved slightly but I dunno if it'd be worth the effort.
TBH, I'd start by using the standard spring with a spacer of some sort at the rear end rather than fit a harder spring.
To get the inner barrel out do you need to undo that tiny screw and remove the piddling little bit of black plastic or is there another way?
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mutter, mutter...
*kicks heels. hangs head*
th'q
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Calm down, Sid. When you talk about a gun in such detail covering all aspects of it, it might as well be labeled a review. What's the difference between a review of a gun and someone just talking extensively about how it feels and how it performs anyways?
So, giving too much detail and giving people something interesting to read now relegates a thread to somewhere that I won't get MY questions answered or create any discussion of the subject?
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How'd this get here?
I'd rather it was in the GD.
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Incidentally, buying this HiCapa has satisfied my desire to own some kind of .45 without causing me to spend a fortune on a WA gun.
I used to own a real Colt 1911 years ago and I found it a bit, I dunno, just wrong for me. You can't operate the slide release or mag release without adjusting your hold on the gun and you can't decock the hammer easily because of the grip safety.
I also recall thinking that the guns proportions were kinda clumsy. It was too long and the slide was kinda narrow and spindly.
I flogged it and bought a SIG P228 and never looked back.
Must admit, I still think all of the above criticisms still apply.
Funny thing is that the IPSC world seems hell-bent on making custom 1911 race-guns which address all the faults that the standard 1911 has.
Why don't they just give up on the 1911 and move to a gun which doesn't have all those faults to begin with?
Answer: Cos guys like to tinker with stuff. A standard .45 USP wouldn't have as much cred as a 1911 with $1000 of bolt-ons. It's the same thing that causes people to ride around on Harleys when they could buy a Honda which'd do the same job much better.
THAT's the only reason the 1911 is still around.
Ahem...
Meanwhile, back on the topic of the HFC HiCapa...
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I'll try and dig my instructions out at some point. You do know the barrel drops out the front of the slide? Probably a dumb question, but I'd feel even dumber if you didn't know, and I didn't ask.
It does?
*wanders off to check*
Whaddayaknow!
Though it pains me to do so, I suppose I'd better +ve rep you for this info.
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TM Hi Capa field stips very easily, no screws need be removed. Only thing I had to undo when I put a metal slide on mine was the screw at the back securing the blowback mech to the slide. Don't suppose you've got a TM Hi Capa to compare it to? Cos I've put a metal slide on mine and... goddamn, that's good! But the full metal copy was kinda disappointing.
Oh, what's the gas efficiency like?
I'll take some pics of my slide later on to show you what I mean.
You're saying that with a Marui HiCapa you can remove the spring guide, recail spring and guide-bush and the outer barel will then drop out?
Given that this is supposed to be a copy of a Marui gun I can't see how this could be so different. Maybe I'm just doing something wrong?
One thing: If a Marui HiCapa owner could scan the manual I'd appreciate it. This gun has absolutely no, nada, zero, zip instructions with it at all.
Anyway, this isn't rearlly a review of the gun. I just wanted to let people know that the non-functional grip-safety thing is fixable and ask a couple of questions as well.
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Got my HFC/WE/Armotech HiCapa last week. Got home last night and finally got around to looking at it.
The box is a totally unbranded brown cardboard box which is kinda convenient for anybody who's considering flogging these for themselves.
Anyway, Snowman said (quite rightly) that the grip safety wasn't working which did disappoint me slightly.
I shot off a couple of mags with it. It DOES have a nice enough kick but the recoil spring is pretty soft. The slide wallops back pretty fast (on green) but the return cycle is slow enough that you can actually watch the slide move forward again.
It's not hideously slow but it's the slowest return of any gun I have.
The slide locks back very solidly so it seems like the gun might benefit from a harder recoil spring.
I suppose if you were running the gun on CO2 then a much stronger recoil spring could be fitted which would make the cycling much faster. I'd guess that the current spring is in so that the gun DOES lock-back reliably on gas.
The other thing is that it's damned fiddly to get the recoil spring out so you might struggle to actually fit a stronger recoil spring.
I removed the hammer spring housing and found that moving the grip safety an extra 1mm (if that) backwards allowed it to engage.
I filed a bit off the tab which holds the grip safety in place behind the hammer spring housing, reassembled the gun and found that the grip safety now works perfectly. 5 minute fix.
Next, a couple of observations and questions...
Firstly, if you cock the hammer with your thumb the gun does NOT fire. The hammer drops but no gas is discharged. You need to actually rack the slide before the gun will fire.
On the one hand, this is a bit of a PITA. I often cock my M190 then drop the mag, lower the hammer, reinsert the mag and then holster the gun. This means the gun is loaded but with the hammer down. Safe.
The Hicapa seems to require that you either leave the gun totally unloaded OR that you leave it loaded and cocked.
I dunno. For some reason this doesn't bother me with a glock but, with a gun that has a hammer I like to be able to decock it if I want.
On the other hand, it's kind of interesting to think that there must be some rather clever engineering going on inside the gun so that it only discharges gas after the slide has been racked. You'll never find yourself firing on an empty chamber as long as there's BBs in the mag.
Finally, I can't see an easy way to field strip the gun.
I got as far as removing the slide then removing the spring guide and spring but, with those parts removed, the barrel won't drop far enough to clear the GBB chamber.
It looks, to me, like you'll need to undo the hex-screw which secures the GBB chamber before you can remove the outer barrel.
Is this normal for a Marui HiCapa?
Beyond that, it is a very nice gun. Bit rattley but nothing major. Quite impressive. Especially since it's the cheapest gun I've ever bought.
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Just to mention that as well as the physical size of sig's, ANIMATED ones can slow things right down. I've seen animated sigs on here that take a couple of minutes to load all the frames.
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Just wondering, how does one become a mod here? Are they personal friends of Arnie? Or does Arnie just appoint people arbitrarily based on their forum participation?
Oh, the irony!
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I'd show you pic's of my CA MP5 but the pic's wouldn't show anything odd.
The gun still works fine but the grip's gone all shiny from where people have been holding it and the paint has worn away in a bunch of places.
Internally, the gearbox is mostly fine although the piston teeth are all worn along the edges.
I've been lending it out for a year, after using it for a year myself. Seriously, I bet it's had getting on for quarter of a million BBs through it and it's going fine.
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Bah!
Nothing reminds people who's in charge more than a bit of arbitrary banning.
Anyway, besides that, Has Shao been told he's the new mod yet?
Tell Arnie to get a move on. It's not like the bloody Oscars or something. The sooner he's told, the sooner he can start getting his head around what to do.
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Slayer posted in the "Are sniper rifles legal?" thread today.
Not that vanished then.
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well ive seen nuno online quite a few times without seeing him post. he is a forgotten force for good, patrol our boundries defending them from evil hordes of chav scum
He's like robocop or something. Maybe more like robo-mod.
We could call him that. It could be his new nickname.
Oh, wait....
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I was gonna get you a clue cos it's obvious that you haven't g....
Erm... I mean happy birthday for next week.
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Not true. You would ban me, wouldn't you...
Hmmm...
My arbitrary sub-500 post banning strategy would see Monk banned but Prometheus staying....
... Maybe there should be a written test instead?
GB-Tech Distraction Device Filler/Charger Review
in Review comments
Posted
That is a bit of a kicker.
Was the FIRST thing I worried about and I was quite relieved that mine showed no sign of leaking.
As for "glue" I'd suggest using either a rad-weld for a car radiator or one of those car tyre puncture repairs.
The dar-weld would be more controllable. You mix them up, pour them into the radiator and they seal as the temperature goes up. On the gas charger you'd have to mix a small amount up, pour it into the charger, put the valve back on, put a bit of gas in it and then heat it up in a bowl of very hot water.
Thing is, a car radiator only works to a few PSI above ambient pressure. Rad-Weld might hold or it might not.
If you used one of those puncture repair aerosols then you know it'll work to much higher pressure but I reckon (never tried one out) it'd be a right mess as you tried to blast it into the charger. Might be better to blast it into a cup of some sort and then pour it into the charger before it sets.
I actually have one of these for my Porsche. Front and back wheels are different sizes so a spare is a bit useless. I've never had a puncture, though, so I dunno how they work. Garages say they make a right mess of the inside of the wheel and tyre so I assume they'd produce a thick sticky mess inside a gas charger too, if you weren't careful.
Each suggestion has ups and downs.