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Vortex Optics Strike Eagle 1-6 x 24 plus mount, used once, lifetime warrenty. £350 all in.
- Today
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It goes without saying, but I also follow our humble forum's very own Bodgeups Airsoft and The Full 9.
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As have been mentioned, Alec Steele, Garand Thumb and Forgotten Weapons are great. RedLetterMedia is fun if you're into movies. For airsoft, I always enjoy The Heresy Group and Real Fake Guns.
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KJW Glock 23 light striking issue.
ninja master of coffee replied to ninja master of coffee's topic in Just Handguns
I have not! To be honest, not really seen it around here so I'm not 100% sure if it's available. I'll look into it, I have some in the UK but it's a definite no-no for flying with ;-/ Just out of interest, how would propane solve the light striking issue? -
KJW Glock 23 light striking issue.
DarkLite replied to ninja master of coffee's topic in Just Handguns
Have you tried running it on Propane? -
Coming soon in the next season of The Expanse.
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I'm having some issues with my KJW Glock 23 (plastic slide version) and light striking. I'm running it on abbey predator gas (red bottle). When I test fire it at home it runs fine, gets pretty good gas efficieny, locks on empty, and has a few more shots worth of gas left. In game it's a different story, it very frequently either won't fire, or light strikes when I try to use it in game or at the end of the day. Now, a couple of things for context, I live in the south of Spain so it tends to warm up quite a lot between morning and midday or early afternoon, even in winter, so it's occured to me that a likely cause is the magazine warming up and the gas hitting a higher pressure, and therefore making the exhaust valve too stiff to move. I have tried running the pistol on 144a but that just creates other issues with the gun not cycling properly due to too low pressure. I'm thinking of getting an enhanced hammer spring to deal with the light striking (it either doesn't fire, or fires but doesn't cycle the slide, becoming effectively like a single shot springer). I am a little confused as to which enhanced hammer spring would be the correct one, I know that KSC/KWA type springs won't work, but a lot of the Marui/WE/KJW springs only mention the Glock 17 and 18 models and I seem to recall that internally the KJW G23 is actually patterned after the Marui Glock 26, whether or not that means a different hammer spring I have no idea. Thanks in advance for any help or advice. Also, please no "Just buy a new gun, hurrr hurrr hurrr." Registering new replicas here in Spain is a pain in the *albartroth* I'd rather not go through unless absolutely necessary. Edit: I used to own exactly this model in the UK, always ran well then. Other people here seem to have a similar issue with their KJW Glock 23s...
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As some of you already surmise, I sold my dignity and purchased something from Cybergun. As the only Tommy GBBR I felt my wallet cornered though to be fair this is not my first CG purchase as I also got the WE/CG Desert Eagle last year so you could say I didn't have any self respect in the first place. So with that, on to the review. The gun is a truly open bolt submachine gun with select fire capability doing about 330fps (30C) at around 850rpm. When out of bbs the bolt locks to the rear until a loaded magazine is inserted and the charging handle pulled back. It is full metal with the major parts (barrel, receiver) in aluminum anodized in a beautiful parkerized look, however it's worth noting that all Thompson SMGs from 1928s to M1A1s left the factories in a blued or du-lite finish. Parkerization was done at the US armorer level and only when returned guns needed refinishing so completely parkerized guns were rarely ever seen until after WW2. The internals are a cast zinc alloy however the sear and bolt have steel reinforcement inserts where they engage against each other for better wear resistance. It has faux wood furniture in ABS plastic and while visually appealing, has a very hollow sound and feel to it especially when the rear sling swivel rattles about. You could, I suppose, fill the plastic with expanding foam or even body filler/bondo to make it more solid and add some heft as the total weight of the gun with the supplied 50 round magazine (30 in real life) only tips the scale at about 2.8kg. Because of this I've changed the furniture out with real walnut by Black Owl Gear. They are the cheapest commercial kit available though need to have the screw holes drilled out first. They go on without modification however the handguard does not sit completely flat against the barrel and will require some sanding to get it really squared on. Speaking of sanding, the kit is roughly finished giving it a very plain and uniform look. I've refinished mine by sanding it down to 400 grit, re-staining in walnut and coating with a couple coats of clear lacquer for water proofing. Installed, the kit adds about 500g and while still over a kilogram short of the real gun's weight, gives it a much more solid, confident feel to it. There are steel kits available now which brings the gun to true weight however they cost over $900 Before: After: Internally it has a 270mm inner barrel and of the modified VSR-10 kind which is to say if you plan on changing either the barrel or hop rubber, you have to swap out both. It doesn't shoot bad considering it is a submachine gun, but I did have to correct the crown which was a bit eccentric and was causing turbulence at the muzzle affecting group size. With that sorted it groups within an A4 size sheet of paper at 20m. The sound when firing is fairly loud, but a little different from other GBBRs in that it's oddly similar to a branch breaking. Recoil is very satisfying as the bolt is heavy and traveling at full stroke so it gets a lot of momentum. Because of this, firing in semi-auto accurately needs a bit of practice and I find shooting it in the prescribed old school method (bladed stance, chicken wing) works best. The hop adjustment dial can be a bit loose however and may require tightening using tape or a thin layer of super glue to keep it from walking out of setting. Also because of the massive bolt, gas consumption and cool down are against it. With moderately paced semi-auto fire, a fully gassed 50 round magazine will shoot enough for 70-80 bbs worth which may seem a lot but it holds a lot of gas to begin with and even just going through 50 rounds it already gets very cold. Now, with the basic information done, and having had this for a couple months and working on other units even earlier than I bought mine, below will cover a list of manufacturing problems, as one would expect from WE, and how to address them. Barrel wobble The barrel and receiver assembly does not copy TM's AEG design but of Hudson's PFC design which is very close to real steel. The handguard metal is screwed to the barrel and both are socketed into the receiver and a screw at the bottom goes through all three pieces sandwiching them together. This is a very solid design, however WE has some production issues such that the screw installed is way too short. It only really engages the barrel by two turns and it doesn't take a lot of rounds for the threads to get mangled and the assembly starts to wobble. To fix this, it's highly recommended to replace the screw with a longer one right out of the box: flat head, socketed, M5x18mm. For an even tighter barrel to receiver fit, you can glue a strip of aluminum to the receiver acting as a shim much like how you would address barrel wobble on the WE G36 (G39). I used aluminum from a soda can and folded it over making it 0.3mm thick and about 20mm wide long enough to make a letter "C" around barrel. Nozzle breakage Some units have experience having their nozzle break in two and I found it to be the cause of a short and loose pin. The front and rear section of the nozzle is connected by a pin which, again, with production issues is shorter than it should be. The pin walks out from recoil and because it's short, one side eventually becomes unsupported and the protruding part of the pin hits an area on the receiver which eventually breaks the nozzle. A good solution is to replace the pin altogether with one that covers the full width of the nozzle and preferably from high carbon spring steel. If you can't find/make a pin, you could also just super glue the original pin in place so it doesn't walk out. Also be observant of the pin every so often, checking to see if it's walking out. Bolt wear Even with just a couple mags through, many have complained about excessive bolt wear on its underside. You can clearly see the scratch marks and in the worst cases the lower receiver is littered with metal shavings. The cause of this, ironically, are the steel reinforcing inserts WE put on the sear. The edges of the inserts are very sharp and work the bolt like a chisel. To fix this you simply have to dull the edges of the inserts with fine grit sandpaper (800 and up). Bolt wear shown only after a few mags for testing, but has not progressed after seeing 1.5-2k rounds after being fixed Dulled edges of sear inserts. You can barely see the difference but I put roughly a 0.12mm radius on the edges. Receiver wobble While this isn't much of a problem on its own, many have complained about it so I've devised an easy way to address it. Using a wide rounded punch, I hammered a dimple into the upper receiver rails near the opposite ends so that the displaced metal creates a hump. This acts as a spacer to tighten the engagement between lower and upper receiver. You don't have to hit too hard, just repeated light taps will do until the desired tightness is met. Shown are one set of dimples on each side but I later added an extra set of dimples next to the first ones. Double feed This problem doesn't happen very often but is a pain when it does as the extra bb doesn't always go down the chamber and instead lodges itself between the bolt and barrel causing a jam. I've rooted the problem down to fairly loose feed lips and to fix them I simply heated the feed lips and clamped them to the right width until cool. I used a heat gun, making sure to rotate the mag constantly to heat the lips evenly. When you see the edges of the plastic begin to get shiny, that's hot enough. I then clamped the lips down with a vise grip pre-measured at 12mm and blew on it until it cooled down.
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Ambi-safety for TM 1911 that doesnt "wiggle around"?
hitmanNo2 replied to Wingman's topic in General Discussion
Yeah. The layer of glue is just to fix the sloppy tolerance. Test fit them together on their own to check it's a firm fit and can be removed when on the gun. -
Ambi-safety for TM 1911 that doesnt "wiggle around"?
Wingman replied to Wingman's topic in General Discussion
If I use the super glue treatment, will I still be able to disassemble the pieces? -
Ambi-safety for TM 1911 that doesnt "wiggle around"?
Katotaka replied to Wingman's topic in General Discussion
the one on my MEU pistol uses a longer (I guess it is) sear pin to slot into the right side lever to keep it from wobbling -
I'd forgotten this, some really interesting things on here! Thanks for reminding me 😊
- Yesterday
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I quite enjoy Garand Thumb, but stay away from the comments section it's insane. For movie reviews I like Christ Stuckman and The Flick Pick, Rossatron, Ryan Hollinger, I love Dan Bull's video game inspired music, he's brilliant and not what I'd normally listen to but I eagerly look forward to each new video. Dslyecxi, for his Arma videos. He's a fantastic ingame pilot and does some excellent tutorials for Arma 2/3. Lindybeige, Scholagladiatoria and History buffs for the historial stuff. And for something completely random Steve1989MREInfo
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Ian is fantastic, I'm not that interested in firearms in general despite liking airsoft but his channel presents them in a much more interesting and educational way than any others, I feel like I've only really scraped the surface of what he has available to watch. For machining related kind of stuff Wes Johnson is another good shout imo, production value isn't anything like This Old Tony but he has a much more realistic approach to projects than many others, particually when compared with the hobby ones where time seems to be of little importance, something at least I appreciate as someone running a small one man machine shop with limited time and resources. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2kEuLCRUrWAvHlupobn4aw/videos
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For an hpa project Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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Chocolate Decaf joined the community
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Lockpicking Lawyer is a good one too if you have any interest in locks and security.
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For those, like me, that can't handle Linus ( LTT ) barfing rainbows, try the somewhat serious Gamers Nexus. Sounds like a gamers channel, isn't really. It's a quite in-depth PC tech channel. AvE is 37% educational and 63% incomprehensible, but 100% awesome.
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This is the 2017 one, which looks like the Maruzen (or Marushin?)but finish looks pretty solid.
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Blobface posted in the WE G3 thread.
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You can lose hours to forgotten weapons, I love that channel! As said, Bigclive too, but I just dabble with that as most electrickery is witchcraft. While I appreciate Alec steels work, I just cannot stand him. For building stuff, I really like Jimmy diresta. Alfie aesthetics for a knowledgeable buffoon messing around camping/bushcrafting in the UK. Dutch bushcraft knives for good reviews and not taking themselves seriously. Demolition ranch because he has all the guns and isn't serious about it. The urban gentry for lovely lovely wristwatches electroBOOM.
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There are a few videos on youtube of it
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I have an 3.9" dual-tone Infinity and a 5" ProKiller II whose full-auto sear is missing a spring but otherwise works that I could be talked out of.
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Ambi-safety for TM 1911 that doesnt "wiggle around"?
renegadecow replied to Wingman's topic in General Discussion
Coat the male end of the ambi safety (not sure which side that is specifically) with a thin layer of super glue and let dry. It should provide extra tension when fitting the two back together on the gun. -
CaptainHighside changed their profile photo
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Abdul haadi joined the community
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sublimerpg131 joined the community
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Why? Do you have something WA for sale?
