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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/26/2020 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    I remember it was the early 2000s, the familiar screeching of a dial-up modem. I log in to world.guns.ru and there's a new entry by Maxim Popenker: the Pistolet Yarygina (PYa), MP-443 or "Grach" by its project codename. It was the 80s all over again. But still this was leaps and bounds considering the last official service pistol of the Russian Federation, the Pistolet Makarova (PM), dates back from the 40s and virtually unchanged. Nearly two decades later and they're still in the process of transitioning to the Grach mostly because they had made too damn many Makarovs. And it's only now that a gas blowback airsoft replica has been produced. The Raptor MP-443 comes in a regular version and a DX version which includes an extra magazine and a replica B-8 rail adapter. I got the DX version but I'm hesitant to attach the adapter just yet because it goes on so tight that it's bound to strip off most of paint off the dust cover. It's a full sized handgun with a 97mm inner barrel (most sites erroneously state it as 105mm), VSR-10 compatible hop-up, and a 25-round magazine. It features an ungodly stiff ambidextrous manual safety (more on that later), a button magazine release that can be switched to either side, and a big slide catch on the left side much like on an M9. The 3-dot sights are fixed with a wide front blade and a deep, u-notch rear. The barrel, slide and frame are constructed of aluminum and the wrap around pistol grip from fiber reinforced nylon. The recoil spring guide and transfer bar are made out of steel with most of the rest of the internals out of aluminum or zinc alloys. It has few markings that are laser engraved, mainly the serial number (not unique) on the slide and frame and the Izhevsk logo. A more stylized version of the logo is molded into either side of the grip. As realistic as the externals are, one big feature that Raptor left out is the ability to fire in double action. This fires in single action only. On the real gun it gives you what is called a 2nd strike: in the event of a hard primer that fails to ignite, you can pull the trigger again to try and hit the cartridge a 2nd time before you have to resort to remedial action. In airsoft however, this doesn't really apply in a mechanical sense. If the gun is light striking, there's something really wrong with it that pulling the trigger another time is almost guaranteed to do absolutely squat. The gun, both real and replica doesn't have a decocker anyway so it's best carried cocked and locked and used dedicatedly in single action mode. Aesthetically however, while the replica is single action only, the trigger is left in the double action state with its long travel. If you're the type who can't get over this, it is possible to drill and insert a pin into the inside frame limiting the forward travel of the trigger so that it looks like it's in single action mode. Now, more on that stiff af safety. It literally got my thumb bleeding and while it's in line with the Russian-tough appeal, I really like my thumbs so this has to be addressed before we move forward. Part of the stiffness is caused by the fact that the safety also locks the slide much like on a 1911. But the tolerances are so tight that you're fighting the slide forward as the safety is engaged. The other part is that the spring used for the detent is too hard and too long so that the end of it pokes out of the safety lever and digs into your thumb. With the help of a friend's idea (thanks Fred) the spring can be easily replaced with a paper clip bent and cut to shape providing a more reasonable amount of tension. But make sure the end of the paper clip doesn't stick out of the safety lever or it can still cut you. Taking down the pistol is a bit strange if you're used to, well, pretty much anything else on the market. First you need to take the mag out, then you need to pull the slide back enough until you can grab the recoil spring guide. The recoil spring guide effectively locks the slide catch in the frame so don't go hammering it out like some yahoos on YouTube! With the spring guide pulled forward, the slide catch slides out easily. Then you can pull the whole slide assembly out the front. Unhook the back of the spring guide from the barrel and it should come out with a little twisting/wiggling. Take note of the recoil spring as it is not captive. Lastly the barrel can be tipped down from the back and slid out. The hop-up adjustment is also strange, but none the less works. It's a simple wheel with its axis parallel to the bore and turning it manipulates the hop arm. Now, actually turning the wheel is another matter because it's on there really tight. It's guaranteed not to walk out of setting, but you'll also break a fingernail if you need to tune it on the fly. Using a small screwdriver to leverage it up or down is highly recommended. But before we go into shooting impressions, I have to introduce my trusty old WE Makarov. After all, the Grach is supposed to replace the PM so it's only fitting that I compare it in a head-to-head test. I've had my Makarov for years now, and while it's sporting "real" bakelite (I know, it's really phenolic resin) by Baikal, internally it's virtually stock with some repairs I've had to do through the years of rough use. The Makarov by WE is really a PMM with the double stack 16-round mags and ergonomic polymer grip. It has a working decocker and fires in both double and single action. The European style heel mag release is convenient in keeping you from losing mags, but the mag release on the Grach needs to be depressed deeply enough that you can't possibly lose a mag by accidentally bumping it with your hip. In double action, the Makarov trigger breaks at 4.7lbs. In single action, it breaks at 2.4lbs with a 5mm reset. The single action only Grach trigger breaks at (inhales) 6.8lbs with a 3mm reset. Take from that what you will, but personally I welcome the heavier trigger of the Grach with a hard wall and clean break. We've become so used to airsoft pistols with 2lb triggers that many don't know real ones come factory with over double that. Accuracy: I shot 10 round groups for each gun in single action mode, seated, at a distance of 20m. The Makarov did an 8" group while the Grach did 6", yes, despite the much heavier trigger. Now, it could be because the Grach has a longer barrel and longer sight radius, not to mention better sights and better ergonomics, but in practical terms, both are acceptable for airsoft gaming purposes. For long range shooting (>40m) neither are really good because they both shoot relatively slow; Makarov at 255fps and Grach at 250fps. The opponent could easily Matrix dodge bbs at that distance where they've decelerated significantly, and even if they connect, carry very little energy that they might not be perceived as direct hits. Note however that the Makarov by WE comes with a screw-on barrel extension + mock suppressor which bumps its output to 340fps. That configuration can reach out to farther targets using heavier bbs, but requires readjustment of the hop-up and just about doubles the overall length of the gun. Recoil and gas efficiency: This test I did at 32C noting the points where recoil begins to noticeably drop and when the magazine is completely empty. The Makarov has a very crisp and satisfyingly moderate recoil owing to its large nozzle diameter and cup design for a piston head. The slide is also very light so return to battery is equally brisk. Magazines hold 4g of green gas and a single fill of gas (pausing to reload bbs) fires off 30 rounds before going low and 35 until empty. The Grach has moderate to soft recoil with the slide feeling a bit sluggish. This is despite the large 15mm nozzle and lightweight slide. Hammer tension is fairly stiff and you'll notice this when you first try to rack it and I suspect this is absorbing much of the slide's momentum. When firing, you'll notice significantly more gas blow-by, suggesting there's wastage of gas pressure somewhere. I also noted that the magazine became really cold quick when I had to reload it with bbs and failed to lock on the last round of the first load. Magazines hold 6g of gas and will start to decrease in recoil at 21 rounds before running out at 37. This came to me as alarming as it was effectively 53% less efficient than the Makarov! Game over. We go back to serve the Soviet Union. Or do we? Something was obviously amiss and it's not my style to whine over a leaky mag when I'm more than capable in fixing it. The gun is well designed, parts well made with good materials but something went wrong on the manufacturing side of things in rushing the product for release. Closely examining the Grach I found that the nozzle to piston head fit was incredibly tight from an oversized and overly hard o-ring. The nozzle won't even budge despite the dual return springs. This plus the heavy hammer spring likely caused the pressurized gas to find other places to escape as evidenced by the increased blow-by, wasting gas and Boyle's law kicking the gun in the nuts. So I go find a more appropriately sized o-ring (original 15mmODx2mmCS ?80D?, replacement 15mmODx1.8mmCS 70D), install it, and lo and behold, with a single fill of gas I was getting 45 rounds before the recoil started to weaken and 50 to empty. The recoil was also noticeably harder than before with the slide moving faster having less friction to fight against. FPS remained more or less the same, but because the cool down wasn't nearly as bad, the average bumped up to 255. So in the end, both guns have more or less the same muzzle output, same range, and same efficiency with the Grach having a higher bb capacity and the Makarov more style points. It's up to you if you want to be like 40s grandpa or 80s (but really in 2000s) chad. For me neither really wins over the other since I'll be fielding both at the same time like those few documented oddball SOBR and OMON guys carrying two pistols because reasons.
  2. 6 points
  3. 6 points
  4. 5 points
    These are my ERG recoil AR's; Top to bottom: Classic M4, Centurion Arms C4, Mk18 mod 0, Mk16 14.5" URG-I upper The ERG C4 with a Geissele Mk4 SMR rail fitted My Marui NGRS's excluding the Mk46, which although beautiful doesn't belong in here! Top to bottom: Mk18 Mod 0, Scar L with Laylax AR stock kit fitted, HK416 Delta ERG M4 from earlier pic with the CQBR upper underneath it.
  5. 2 points
    So long as it works, and you have a few mags, a TM 552 is going to be just fine. Don't get caught up in *needing* the latest and greatest. power limits are still basically the same, most players still can't set a hop properly and TMs always had decent range to begin with. That said there's a crazy selection of cool stuff if you do want to get new kit. I've not been keeping up to date all that well (except for shotguns )
  6. 1 point
    I've had some minor regular problems with them, and they never failed to solve them. Now, to come here and in your first post just "tarnish their name" is not what I would call a class act on your part. It's generally advisable to use your first post in a forum to introduce yourself, at least. What I gather from your screenshots is: 1.- It's not a defective item. It's not compatible with your helmet. 2.- It has been used beyond what they consider "new returned" which can happen if you fiddled with it trying to make it work. 3.- Even then they offered you another refund, but for the item only (which they cannot sell as new anymore), no shipping or discount included. It's not that they are not trying. Good luck.
  7. 1 point
    This is late, but the Wild 2 light did arrive. All aluminium construction, which should make it much more robust then the original versions (which I still like). A little wider and longer also. But not by much. This is definitely for the full sized pistols. The Wild 1 will be for the more compact pistols but wont be out until possibly December. It is very well made and has some new features (like the battery department and on/off toggle switches that are supposed to have made it more water proof. As far as illumination goes, it certainly does the job. I tried it out in the backyard at around 11pm and at 1000 lumen, the brightness and range is a major improvement. It penetrated deep into the heavy woods behind my house. Far surpasses my TLR-1. It fit just fine on my G17's, P225 Mk 25, TM M45A1 (as with all my other 1911's with rails) and is currently attached to one of my AAP-01 pistols (looks good too). Naturally this means another holster issue, but I think I'm going to finally break down and get the Matrix or Condor adaptable holster until something better comes along. A very nice light in my opinion.
  8. 1 point
    UPDATE: It appears there may be something off with the green gas (Guarder) I used being old and nearly empty when I did the tests as well as the chronograph being dirty (I use GBBs almost exclusively and silicone oil + dirt may have built up on the sensors. Having gotten new gas (Puff Dino 12kg) and cleaned the chrono, the Makarov measured 262fps while the Grach did 277fps on .20g bbs. Also, decided to try out shortening trigger travel to resemble the position in single action mode. Instead of drilling the frame and inserting a pin to block the trigger, I simply fashioned a piece of abs plastic and glued it to the frame behind the trigger. The spacer measures 7x5x2.5mm.
  9. 1 point
    The only blemishes on Beretta, honestly id say 99% condition. After all it is at least twenty years old. Have to nip out for awhile now, will send other pics later.
  10. 1 point
    Just got my 2 this weekend (black and tan)..I dolled up the black one with a M16 flash hider, the red-dot mount w/ co-wittness height sights and the lower rail is carrying a TLR 2 until my new Inforce "Wild Two" shows up. Very "Mandalorian" looking (lol). Put about 20 magazines worth the BB's through it and function was quite good. It does take awhile for the hop-up to start working. Mine seems to like the .25's the best. Range is adequate (I only have 90 feet max to shoot at targets).. 50 feet had them grouping very well. Trigger was very good with a clean let off and short re-set. My only problem was one of the magazines that came with the pistol lost the "O Ring" for the gas feed valve after about the 10th magazine fill.. It was easily re-set and is working fine. My WE and KJW magazines worked flawlessly. Did not try the TM's yet. Overall, I liked it so much that I ordered another Black one. Thinking about the stock and suppressor next. Very, very simple to disassemble. These are going to be fun!
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    TrexArms inspired paintjob. Tokyo Marui M4 NGRS Jag Arms Scattergun TSS
  13. 1 point
    TM x Guarder, steel slide gen 3 Glock34 with Volante BBU, and a hacky but functional 3D printed mounting solution for the SRO, 1.6mm below the top surface of the slide similar to the MOS range. Slide milled by @PureSilver
  14. 1 point
    Got my first gun rack up
  15. 1 point
    I think this pistol has reached peak meta lol. https://shop.jkarmy.com/c-c-mak-style-slide-set-for-aap01-gbbp-type-1-aap-01.html
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    WE M4 gbbr WE M4 WE M4 (ra-tech) A&K PTW M4 Cyma M4
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    "One does simply buy a P230" And of course, you will need a gorjuice Hogue grip (who doesn't fit at all without mods by the way). Unicorn love on you all. Peace.
  20. 1 point
    Just finished up this leather pancake holster for my series 70. Stitch work is pretty rough (and not a proper saddle stitch) but I'm really happy with it considering its the first leather work I've done.
  21. 1 point
    VFC Gen 5 17 with Pro-Arms MOS steel slide
  22. 1 point
    Well, I have made some stippling to the frame and some work on the trigger guard like the agency arms style, But more like a fake one because I don't want to file it down to much, But at least it's looking good so far I think! Xd
  23. 1 point
    I was told there would be pestilence... #MakeCuringGreatAgain #Impeach05Council #NotMyPlague
  24. 1 point
    Business casual iteration of my Glock 22, featuring useless sh*ts. Special guest appearance Fluf the tiger.
  25. 1 point
    On the field My shotgun, in use. It wasn’t externally complete at this point, hence the lack of spray paint. While it may have started out as a mild-mannered replica, this thing is now a powerhouse. The hopup modifications I performed allow me to run fairly heavy bbs, meaning light brush is no longer cover. I run the gun almost exclusively in 6-shot mode, with the resulting spread allowing me to land hits on the smallest exposed bit protruding out from barricades and doorways. I hold 3-shot mode (and the accompanying heavier ammo) in reserve for longer-range standoff engagements, which the gun can handle but I try to avoid all the same. This platform isn’t without drawbacks, which neatly balance out the benefits. Ammo management is a constant battle. Much like with a real shotgun, if you aren’t shooting, you better be loading. I know there are adapters and drum mags to negate this issue, but I feel that such accessories cheat you out of an essential part of the shotgun experience. Another key point is mobility: getting pinned down without support will likely lead to your demise. The shotgun’s fire rate likely isn’t enough to effectively counter-suppress and withdraw, so lean on your rifle-wielding buddies when things get heavy. Exploit your lighter load and try to close with the contact from a different direction. https://youtu.be/I7l8OcxDgEY Some helmet cam footage of a “chaos” game at my local field. This game allows dead players to be absorbed by another team, so group cohesion took priority over aggressive individual movement. Verdict: Lessons learned, and was it worth it? Experimenting with the hopup system was far and away the most tedious and time-consuming part of this project. It took me no less than 60 hours of repeated disassembly, shimming, reassembly, and testing to figure out my shimming method. That said, I’m glad I did it. Thanks to my findings, this gun neatly fills the capability gap I intended to address. This shotgun is not designed to be disassembled 20+ times. Threaded holes in metal and plastic alike will strip with extensive use. My advice to you? If you’re going to perform upgrades or modifications, do them all at once to minimize the amount of times you have to take it apart. TM’s shotgun shells caused me a bit of trouble. Unlike their other magazines, these shells required some modifications and a break-in period before feeding heavy bbs consistently. Some of the issues I experienced were due to the system getting pushed past its intended performance envelope, so I’m not too disappointed. This gun does not like soft or brittle bbs. The jams I experienced (which resulted in extensive nozzle damage, as detailed in my Phase 5 notes) were mostly due to the loading gate being stuck open, but the ammo I was using is partially responsible. Valken bbs are notoriously soft and easy to chop, which undoubtedly contributed to the severity of the jams and ensuing damage. Once I switched to BLS/HPA bbs (my preferred brand), I had no further jamming issues. If I could do it all again, I would have never considered any SAT-made parts. They are not as well engineered as WiiTech, both in material selection and design. The SAT hopup rubbers are the one possible exception to this, although they are not without their own drawbacks (see: reduced 6-shot mode performance). All technical information aside, there is one question that remains unanswered. The most important question of all: was it worth all the research, experimentation, effort, and money? Honestly? Absof**kinglutely. What’s next? I plan on getting in touch with LC’s Engineering Outpost[20] to see if I can get some steel forend arms (TM P/Ns 870T-10 and 870T-11) made, in the interest of longevity. TAPP Airsoft have also hinted at the possibility of releasing CNC’d replacement arms for full-size M870s. British SO19 operator with 20 in bbl L74A1 (M870). I will have to replicate the 18.5 in bbl variant since no one makes longer outer barrels for the TM M870. I’m also in the process of building a second shotgun, with the desired end result approximating the British L74A1. An old-school top folding setup will go nicely with older kits, especially my recently-completed early 2000s SAS black kit. I’m hoping the lessons I learned from my first build will make this new gun cheaper and easier to put together.

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