Deki
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Posts posted by Deki
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Here is my beauty
i installed guarder boreup kit for M4, madbull hop bucking and G&P RIS with no cutting or modding
i placed a large 9,6 2400 battery in the boxmag so i rewired it (also no cutting or modding needed)
ohh and i also used a bit of coyote spray paint
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It takes a full turn or two for hop-up to start working and it goes a bit stiff with brand new gun.
The easiest way to check how much hop you applied, is to take out the gearbox and look through the barrel. If you don't know how to take it out or you don't want the hassle, just turn 1/4 turn and check if there is any hop. Repeat this until you see some result.
Deki
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ups, double post
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Hi. I got my Minimi yesterday and today i tried to adjust the hop-up and it didn't make any differece at all?
From it's stock position i adjusted it anti-clockwise until the allan screw was almost out!! Do i need to do anything to the rubber or barrel to get it to work correctly?
Cheers in advance.
Pugh.
Turn hop screw clockwise for more hop
D
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Well after 20.000+ shots my boxmag switch failed the same way some of you posted already. It's designed poorly so it was bound to happen sooner or later.
I know what i had to do so I didn't bother contacting STAR for replacement part, I just made this:
Works way better than original design.
Deki
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had a no feeding issue today i think due to cold weather was around 15 degres. shot fine right out of the car, but 30 min in the cold it just would not feed and when it did only shot 50 feet wired i wonder what this cold issue is? great gun just not for cold weather
Read a few pages back. I had the same issue and found out that the problem was with the nozzle. When cooled the nozzle would shrink and it would stop moving properly.
Either replace the nozzle with G36 type (cutting required) or sand/polish the brass nozzle of the cylider head as Wupjak did.
Deki
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Interesting. I found this to be the case on my 249 as well and wound up lightly sanding and polishing the brass nozzle on my cylinder head to reduce the outer diameter slightly. The end result allowed the plastic nozzle to move freely on the cylinder head's nozzle. Sounds like you approached it a different way. Good work.
I tried stock nozzle on guarder and prometheus cylinder head and it didn't fit.
But when i put guarder nozzle on any of those cylinder heads (including star m249) it moved smoothly. So i figured i would just replace the nozzle.
I guess we both have a solution, so if you don't want to buy new nozzle (g36 type) and cut it a bit, you could always sand/polish the brass cylinder nozzle.
Deki
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Well, since no one found the solution for m249 not working in cold temperatures i decided (finally got some free time) to take a closer look by myself.
I suspected the gearbox to be the issue so i took it out and placed it outside for one hour to cool down to 0˙C
Luckily i found the problem right away.
What I found out is that nozzle was not moving at all! I pushed it in (simulating the cycle of the gears) and nozzle stayed in that position. It took a lot of effort to pull it back with my hand. After 10-20 moves in and out, the tappet plate spring was able to do that movement forward.
That was the cause of low fps of first 20-50 rounds in cold temperature
I replaced stock nozzle with Guarder G36 one (had to cut it for about 1mm, to achieve the same lenght. I also wanted to replace the cylinderhead (prometheus v3), but i found out that the tappet plate is wider, so no new cylinder head for my 249.
I tested it on field yesterday and it worked like a charm (approx 1˙C outside).
I finally got a chance to defend the whole flank with my M249
Hope this helps star m249 owners with the same problem. The rest of you not having that problem, just check if your nozzle is moving freely.
Deki
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Hello to everyone!
I have a little problem with my STAR m249 which i hope you guys can help me with.
STOCK configuration + stronger spring in L1 position:
When i shoot with my STAR m249 in my room (about 22˙C) i have no problem at all. It feeds ok, cycles normally, and fps is ok.
But when i went on the filed two/three weeks ago i had a little problem.
I took it out of the car and tested the range. It fired perfectly, just needed a bit of hop adjustment.
Did a few more bursts with hop set and left it by the car. It was about 0˙C outside.
After a few minutes in the cold i wanted to fire a few more bursts but it wouldn't put out any BB's, or they would come out 2-3 at the time with no more than 5m range.
After about 30 rounds/cycles it started to fire normal again.
I reduced the hop a bit (tought that might jam the path), but then a few minutes later i picked it up again and it happened all over again.
When the mechanism cooled down i had the same problem all over again.
I tought that piston o-ring might be the problem so 1 week later i installed:
- prometheus hard type hop bucking (tryed guarder both type, marui, CA - got too much fps loss on all of them)
- guarder stainless cylinder
- guarder alu piston head
- marui piston o-ring
- guarder V2 spring guide
the seal between the cylinder, cylinder head and piston head is perfect.
When i put it all together it fired normally. I placed the spring guide in L2 position.
Then i put it in the cold room (about 10˙C) for a few hours to cool it down and the same thing happened again.
First 30-50 rounds had no power and would now and then come out 2-3 at once. Again after first 30-50 rounds m249 started to fire normal again.
I used 8,4 and 9,6 2400 battery, both performing as they should with stronger spring.
Any ideas? Have any of you guys had similar problems with this or any other AEG in the cold weather?
Deki
Pictures Of Yourself In The Field Or At A Game
in Game & Events
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me with my A&K para a few weeks ago