Kireru
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Posts posted by Kireru
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Ok guys - need some help here... I've had the TDC mod done a while ago, and my hop-up is still very very unstable. When emptying my mags after a disappointing gaming day i saw the BBs would drop insanely fast on one mag and then shoot well according to the Hop-up setting.
This was the case with every of my 7 mags.
V2 rifle.
V1+ BCG.
TDC mod.
Precision barrel.
Note: i had the Hop-up issue before the precision barrel got installed.
Hop-up bulking was cleaned the day before and already on the first mag BBs starting dropping.
suggestions? -
Ok guys... lets try this.
Tried out the V1+ bolt yesterday.
It ran good but there was some issues. First of - the Bolt didnt cycle all that well after trying it out with mag nr. 2. It might have been me, that didnt lube it well enough.
Also my hopup is way too inconsistent even though i have the TDC mod. I suspect it has something to due with the inner barrel allowing wobble, causing the some shots with hopup engadged, some with none at all.
I currently have a Madbull outer barrel installed, and its abit off spec compaired to the stock one. I will try putting on the stock outer barrel to eliminate the wobble/hopup issue. -
I got my Cradle V1+ yesterday, awesome package. I havn't shot with it yet, only to Chrono -the out of box FPS- which was roughly 140 m/s. The bolt is lighter, the action feels more crisp which i think it caused by the V1(+) design?
But due to the ligther weight i expect lesser recoil. Will write more after it has seen its first battle
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I had a coworker help with mine, since im more into the fine tuning of things than power tools. He made it look easy, but yea the prospect of screwing up and leaving you with a huge hole in the upper is kinda scary. Hope you get it fixed, since its well worth it
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OK the TDC modification, I'll keep the guide quite simple because its a simple enough modification and you can alter some of the details to suit (you'll see as we go).
You will need:
Drill, either a pillar drill or a normal drill in a stand.
Tap set.
Drill bits.
Center punch.
Calipers / Ruler.
Soft jawed vice.
Now before we start I drilled mine from the underside to the top, first attempt I went from the top down and the drill was off a little not enough to make the mod not work but I found working from the inside out made getting the buisness end spot on easier. To achieve this you will need a faily small chuck in the drill. Also make sure your tap is going to be long enough (you can do this from the top inwards).
As for what to use as a set screw I made mine from a 4 x 50 mm stainless bolt. Cut to length with a slot in the top for a small screwdriver.
Step 1: Strip the upper (on your own here, if you are stuck I did pictures for the shrink wrap mod.)
Step 2: Assemble the hop arm and carrier alone into the upper. Mark the position of the end of the hop arm (roughly the end of the ramp). Remove arm, etc.
Step 3: Mark with a centre punch half a diameter (of your selected set screw) plus 2mm back from the end of the arm mark.
Step 4: Grip your upper in a soft jawed vice so that the drill bit will pass squarely through the upper.
Step 5: Drill slowly through the upper, watch the material is soft but the guides for the gas tube can deflect the bit. I'd suggest a small pilot bit to start.
Step 6: Remove burrs from hole.
Step 7: Tap hole to suit selected set screw.
Step 8: Assemble you need the factory hop, arm / spring etc but you can bin the wheel, screw and the spacer ring thing.
Step 9: Set hop and enjoy.
Excuse the pictures they are from my first go where the drill deflected and as you can see the hole is off. But this did not cause the hop arm to skew so I'd not worry about being dead centre but it does look neater when you are done.
Home made set screw, very simple but you can use any grub screw (4mm is ideal)
As you can see my first go was a little off, also nearer the front end of the ramp would have been better.
Even with the hole a bit to the side the arm remains square right to the end of its travel as shown.
What you see on the rail.
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Sooooo looking forward to my v1+
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@Theme57
Unfortunately i live in a country that has very strict weapon laws. As a private citizen, you cant own a firearm, unless you are a member of a shooting club and have been an active member for over 2 years. Even then requiring a license to buy and own your own AR-type rifle is not easy.
RS weapon parts are near impossible to get a hold of. Not only due to laws here, but US ITAR stops shipment of RS items as well... such as a trigger spring. Of course that's an exaggerated example, but it's not as easy as just ordering online.
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Well she's been my main project for a while now, think i got her in January - and finally she's ready to prove herself on the fields of honor...or plastic BBs. The Cradle v1+ BCG and TDC is the only things i have/had in mind with mods or replacement when looking at performance. And from what i can understand, it's all you need done.
I do wish there were a wider range of accessories like triggers, selector switches, springs and so forth. -
Good to hear you got it fixed...if in doubt, use a bigger flame. I think its suppose to click. But TDC is recommended
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Usually they are a tight fit - screwing it on the outer barrel or similar and then try counter twisting it off, might work.
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Ok guys - i had the TDC mod made and it didnt work...(hold on) when i just dropped in the Madbull outer barrel. The little nudge/wiggle space the inner barrel had, did have an effect wether the hopup arm touched the hopup rubber or not. By adding a little spacer (small piece of rubberband) the inner barrel/hopup chamber did indeed get a better contact with the hopup arm, thus making the TDC mod perfect.
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Hmm spacer didnt do the biggest difference. I'm very sure the little nudge has something to do with the arm having a good contact surface on the hopup rubber or not. In any case, BBs drop fast, so having one of the tech guys do a TDC mod on it...thanks to the fine people here at the forum sharing knowledge on how to.
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@Kireru- Nice!! Very nice!
I now have to go with a similar build, my Noveske 18" outer barrel isn't taking at all so far.
I got in a new Falcon 509mm inner today and some Falcon hop rubbers, and the BBs act like there's hop-up while the hop dial isn't "on". I think the loading nozzle is mashing the BBs through the hop rubber? I switched back to the KJW stock outer, but with the Falcon inner and bucking and everything returned as it should be, but now I have to get a suppressor to cover the inner. I do plan on taking the inner down a bit though, too.
Thank you Thank you... Getting the B&T Rotex silencer in that little front took some time and dremel. Overall i'm very pleased with how it turned out.
Regarding the hopup, i have a Madbull CQB outer barrel installed and i noticed my hopup didnt react at all when turning the dial.
I found out that when the outer barrel base(two piece barrel) when installed on the upper, that the inner barrel had about 0.5-1mm nudge space towards the inner and that had alot to say if the hopup arm had optimal contact on the rubber or not.
I placed a small pin on the side of the outer barrel in the grooves where the hopup chamber inserts, to push the hopup chamber a little bit more towards the upper. Thus making the arm get full contact on the rubber. Havnt shot it yet to see if it made that much of a difference, will in a short while though. But with that spacer and small nudge on the inner barrel/hopup chamber, a visual check did show a more significant change in the hopup rubber
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Almost done, just need a CTR stock....
I name you in the name of the Thunder BB god... Dark Phonix.
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Well last night i tried out a RS ambi selector from a german company. It was made for civilian use, hence single fire only. It was configurated for 45' and 90' clicks. Sad to say, it wasnt a plug and play solution. It needed some modding to fit in lenght and when that was done, the tension plug for the selector switch (part 44) didnt match the grooves on the RS part either, making it a none-click switch. So final thoughts -> bummer
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Ordered my V1+ - weeee cant wait
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Ok added a few things on it.
new trigger guard.
new stocktube sling mount.
new flashlight.
Still waiting for the CQB inner barrel so i can mount the silencer from within the front.
In progress:
I decided on a CTR mil-spec stock, since im thinking it sits tighter on the tube and MOE grip.
I kinda fell inlove with Troys Ambidextrous mag&bolt release, so really considering getting them.
And come wednesday, im so gonna order a V1+ oh yea, taxreturn for the win!
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Yea i ordered a CO-Witness mount for the T-1
Also on its way is a CQB outer barrel, so i can run with a Silencer (barrel extension tube) from inside the MFR and out.
Just saw today that DD already made a version as the one i imagined -
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My build so far - its a work in progress, so please no hateful words
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Update*
Seems cleaning the trigger mech out and ONT overusing a cold mag did the trick. It shot perfectly with no flaws. So hopefully my baby will keep running during the summer time -
The rifle is completly new, only has had 7-9 mags through it, but i will check. Going to run a less cold-mag season today. I got the info that a really cold mag can cause the gas valve to freeze up and cause a malfunction with mag/bolt.
With "double tap" i mean the bolt cycles twice on one trigger pull, very strange. An unwanted burst function. I'll do a clean up on the internals and only use a decent temp. magazine today just to check up on it. -
Just had a shooting season with the rifle and it started to act up. First it wouldn't lock the bolt, I gassed up and tried again with the same result.
After a mag or two it suddenly started to release gas with a bolt failure. Tried greasing BCG and piston to see if that helps - but then it started to "double tap" the bolt when pulling the trigger once.
Same Mag was used during the whole season and got very very cold towards the end.
Single fire only. Rapid fire though.
V2.
Stock internals.
Got any suggestions?
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Awesome looking adapter - great job on the finish. Not gonna loose that in a skirmish.
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Okay, I am having problems with one of my mags, where the bolt is not locking back. I think it's a mag problem, as with one of the mags the bolt locks back while with this mag it doesn't. I've determined that the problem is that the silver tab in the back of the mag doesn't stay up, it keeps going down. I think this must be because a spring is worn out, and if that's the case then where can I buy a new spring?
From what i read, it should be fairly easy to disassemble the mag. Try doing that and see if anything is causing the spring to not fully push up the silver tab.
KJW M4
in Rifles (Gas)
Posted · Edited by Kireru
Its random...
First round i played i took 3-4 shots to see how the hop-up was set... perfect flight.
We go out side, its about 16C/62F to 20C/68F+.
We run around some, spot each other and then when i fire....straight drops. Thats atleast 10 min after my Hop-up shots.
When emptying my mags, the drops were so random that i really cant tell what does it.
Only thing i noticed was my rifle did sound different at times, like gas efficiency was a variable. I didnt do a control check and shoot each mag 3-4 times to determine if it was the mags not giving out enough gas, but some mags could shoot straight down and then the final shots would fly straight.