MunkyMo
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Posts posted by MunkyMo
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Sorry, I'm out of town on business for a short period. I had zero issues getting the Rail kit to fit. I removed the front sight post, and left the gas tube out, but it fits on just fine.
I found the easiest way to mount it was to tighten the friction lock down some, but not all the way, then slip the rail kit on and turn to tighten, which should carry the friction lock with it and align your top rails.
Turn to tightness, then put in the screws to set everything in place.
It looks quite good to my eyes, there is a small portion of the outer barrel still showing, approx 1-1.5 inches from the rear of the flash hider to the beginning of the rail kit.
An interesting side effect of the rail kit is an audible metal "twang" sound to be heard with it each shot.
I'll be adding noveske MBUS and a Noveske flash suppressor soon as well.
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Skirmish went well, but was cancelled early due to the inclement weather. Only managed to do one relatively quick round, and fired 4 mags, semi auto, all 30 rounds without issue.
Ambient temp was ~15F.
I did run into an issue with my hop-up. It does seem to have much effect. I turned the knob in the direction of the arrow and it doesn't seem to change anything, and there's no stop point. It clicks with each stage, but it never stops turning. Am I not paying close enough attention or is there something I should be changing?
I suppose I could always switch to a different hop-up sleeve/nub and see if it improves at all, are AEG nubs/sleeves compatible?
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I'm using straight coleman propane, the bottle is a little old too, so it may be a little less than half full.
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I'm messing around with my rifle in the cold (12 degrees F right now) and I'm still able to get about 1.5 mags off in single fire without much issue. This is gassed, then slapped in the rifle and allowed to fire immediately. The only modifications I have in are T-Hums piston and velocity reducer.
I am still however having trouble getting all my rounds to push up to the top of the mag every time. Can someone please point me in the direction of a how-to guide to replace the bb-follower spring in the mag? Or an at home remedy? I'm tired of having to beat my mags a-la Vietnam era m16s.
I've also opted to put a 12.658" Noveske free float rail kit on there, and I've already got my PTS CTR, so I'll have pics to come soon. I'd really like to wait until after I put the MIAD and KX3 as well, but that's a little ways off still.
I have a full blown skirmish tomorrow morning and it's supposed to be even colder than today. I'll let you know how well it handles the day.
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I agree with cent101 on buying from Cradle Airsoft. I would particularly like a tighter bore than 6.03 since it's a gas gun and there's really no concern of stripped gears, 6.02 or .01 would be great.
Those are two interesting choices for lengths they are selling: one is the m4 standard length, but the other is full length m16 size.
I wonder what FPS we could expect from a 509mm barrel, probably have to use quite a few spacers to get it legitimate for most fields of play.
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Has anyone made a step-by-step guide on how to break down and reassemble the magazines? I'm going to try to put a couple spacers behind the spring so as to increase the tension and hopefully restore my bolt catch on last round fired.
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Still having trouble with the lock-back. Any suggestions?
Also, I've noticed my bb follower seems to stick. Since you can't work the spring in the traditional method (pushing the loading rod up and down into the magazine) anyone have any good methods for lubing and loosening the spring/follower?
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It wasn't allowing me to edit, but I was using Propane.
In the cold, I recommend using Propane, no matter what. And make sure your mags are probably greased, my round follower wasn't coming up occassionally.
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In installed my Cradleairsoft parts today.
Installation went smoothly for both the velocity reducer and the piston. Simply amazing how easy the change was, also amazed by how practical working inside this gas gun was. I've had a Tanaka m700, several WA pistols and a KWA mp7. All of those have a million small parts that I'm relatively certain dissolve when in contact with air and require at least 5 hands to re-assemble.
Very pleased with my results. I live in KY, USA. Right now the temperature is ~36 degrees F, or 2-3 Celsius. I gassed the mags, didn't allow them to warm at all and slapped them in. I was able to get an entire mag out on full auto, and ~60 shots on semi rapidly tapped out. No noticeable change in range/FPS from the first to last shot. The recoil was suffering though.
One finicky thing: My bolt wasn't locking back on the last shot, but I have a feeling that's because the BCG didn't completely cycle due to reduced recoil. I didn't put any spacers on the velocity reducer, just the o-ring. I don't have a chrono to give quantitative results.
Eagerly looking forward to a TBB.
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I got my rifle in a couple days ago (I think a large portion of the money I spent was eaten in the "free" shipping that arrived from Taiwan to the US in <5 days).
I must say, I absolutely love it. Plenty of kick, loud and intimidating. Feels great to shoot, nothing has been more exciting in my airsoft career.
My chief complaints so far are actually with loading:
Has anyone found a more suitable way to reload magazines in a field? With Gas and BBs? carrying the little cap, tube and plunger around seems like it'd quickly get to be a pain.
Also, my box included an armorer's wrench. I have a non-serial #ed model. I was wondering if this was true for everyone?
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I ordered a rifle and 10 mags from RA-Tech last wednesday. Got my tracking number this morning.
Total cost shipped to my door in KY, USA was 750 bucks.
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Sorry if this has been established already, but has anyone posted a guide on how to install an aftermarket Outer Barrel and RIS kit and which are compatible?
Essentially, I want to kit my gun out almost completely, but I don't want to waste a fortune getting everything set up and mailed to me to find it's exceptionally difficult or that the parts I ordered are incompatible.
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you can say how hard it shoots just can't talk about how you got it that high
My M16 Chronographs at 410 FPS (509mm Prometheus Barrel)
My M14 Chronographs at 414 FPS (590mm Prometheus Barrel)
My G&GSoc16 Chronographs at 408-410 FPS (Prometheus Barrel cut and crowned to max length)
All 3 use a spring that is rated the same and built by the same manufacturer.
I have never had any problem with suck back with a barrel 590mm and below.
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500mm is also the maximum lenght you should use. I recently put a 560mm barrel into a customer's gun and it constantly shot about 10-20fps less than with a 500mm barrel. Besides, that extra 60mm of barrel won't affect your accuracy as the 500mm barrel is quite long to start with.
I use a G&G M14 Full Length with a Prometheus 590mm barrel.
I cannot post what FPS it shoots due to Forum regulations but with the same spring in the M14 that is in my M16 with only a 509 mm barrel the M14 shoots 4 FPS higher then the M16 did.
I also only shoot in single thou so that might be it.
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I lost about 10k USD in stuff. Half of that was airsoft stuff.
I was thinking of using coyote to do light stripes to break up the image but I want to do a test spray on another stock before I do most of the AEG.
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11/15 My apt caught fire and took the life of my beautiful Soc16.
After going through the burned out apt I realized that 2 broken G&G's I picked up as parts AEGs were still some what intact.
I found enough parts to build 1 entire M14 minus the internals (The box of Prometheus parts just arrived). So here is my new baby... externally completed but still needing internal work.
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Great information Stubbs. I do have to say that you are one long winded mofo.
I have been looking into Saws for the past year and I am pretty sure I have decided on G&P ( I already rock out a G&P M16 for the past year). The only thing that concerns me is not being able to quick change the springs. I attend a lot of events at several fields that are anywhere between 1 hour to 7 hours of driving to them. Most of the fields have different FPS limits so with my M16 I tend to bounce between a Prometheus MS110 and MS120 spring twice a month.
Have you noticed any wear and tear from removing the gear box?
I would have to remove it once or twice a month to get full use out of it :-/
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HIghstandard Model 10-b Bullpup shotgun.
Makes me want to touch my self
KJW M4
in Rifles (Gas)
Posted
I'm having trouble figuring out to remove the old barrel and put in my new T-hum TBB.
Can someone post detailed instructions here? Along with tools needed?
I've also had trouble with my hop-up not responding as well as I'd like, I figure I'll give that a look while I'm working on the barrel switch. Maybe a little heat-shrink mod will fix that.
Thanks in advance folks.