snorkelman

On the ra-tech one that (I think) it copies, the hex screws just centre the barrel inside the hop unit, only the phillips screw actually pulls the two parts (loosely) together. Id strip it back down and fit the actuator arm inside one half of it - might just be the pivot points on it are a little too fat for the holes they're supposed to fit in

provided noones made an *albartroth* of the tolerances then the EBB chamber should be fine things not to bother buying Ra-tech 'winter' spring - nothing wrong with it but its pretty much identical gauge, strength and length to the spring thats in the AGM steel buffer tube ring - the one on the gun is already steel hammer lock - its already presed metal anyways and seems like it might be specific to the AGM enhanced hammer spring the AGM hammer spring is already strongest of the lot things to hold off buying till you actually need them (unless you just want to gut it out

changing the hop unit - http://www.taf-inc.com/discuz/viewthread.p...;extra=page%3D1 remove outer barrel remove inner barrel and hop unit (watch out for the spring) slide the oring out from its groove in the barrel in front of the hop up adjuster drum (or just pull the drum forwards and have it roll the o-ring out for you) slide adjuster drum along the barrel away from hop unit prise the two halves of the hop unit apart - its split down the middle nothing holds it together other than the axis pin of the adjuster arm so just get a finger nail in between the two halv

works with my ra-tech bolt carrier (locks it solid) can feel it just slipping on the AGM one - cuts arent as sharp (overall diameter on the AGM bolt carrier seems to be around 0.2mm narrower which wont be helping either)

aye, wasnt impressed by the AGM bolt catch - when i took it out it had already started showing wear at the stopping edge and that was with no more than half a dozen dry cycles

if you go with the RA-tech bolt catch you'll need to file sides of the channel it sits in in the firing block to open the channel out a little It only needs a tiny amount off of each side of the channel, a small piece of 240 grit wet and dry paper folded over on itself and run along the sides of the channel a few times was all it took to get the bolt catch to fit in and pivot smoothly with no stickyness (you could just do same to sides of the bolt catch itself but that'll take the finish off of it) release button on the RA-tech catch isnt quite as big as the original AGM one -

put mine back together for a test fit and noticed that athough the ino hammer lock is a drop in fit it wasn't actually functioning With receiver open both hammer locks swing into place when selector is switched to auto, as you'ld expect them to, but only the AGM one actually catches the hammer AGM hammer lock - pull trigger in auto and hamer drops for first shot, as hammer is recocked for second shot (while trigger is still held back) the hammer lock grabs the hammer and holds it in cocked position untill the bolt carrier is almost fully forward at which point rear of the ca

try following with top cover off the gun cock the hammer by hand rotate the safety lever up even higher than it would normally go (so front part of the external lever sits say 3 or 4mm higher than normal) Is the trigger locked then or can the front hooks of trigger pivot forwards and down enough to still alow the hammer to trip?

just inside the trigger in image four is a small brass tube that the trigger pin goes thru it should fit inside the trigger and sit flush with left hand side of the trigger If you were to assmble and fit the trigger without it the trigger would be loose on the triggerpin and have a little more movement than it should same would apply if the brass tube slides out along the trigger pin - it'll no longer be supporting right hand side of the trigger in its pin. that shouldnt happen as the pin is machined witha shoulder to prevent the tube sliding along it, but if the tube has 'opened u

checked the brass sleeve hasnt slipped on the trigger pin? - it should go thru left hand side of trigger and thru the spring loaded rear trigger hook, if its slipped out of place then trigger may not be sitting straight in the pin and be tilting downwards slightly on the right hand side - might give you enough free movement to release front trigger hook from the hammer

got a mixture of parts thru so been giving things a test fit RA-Rech hammer - drop in fit Ino trigger - drop in fit Ra-tech trigger sear - drop in fit Ino hammer lock - drop in fit Ino selector - drop in fit Ino buffer - is around 5mm longer than the original AGM Ra-Tech steel bolt carrier with aluminium nozzle block - fits in OK but is a mm or two longer at rear than the AGM bolt carrier - still to test fire it to see if it causes any probs in use but receiver is happy enough to close with it in place and dry cycles fine GHK mag seems to fit into the magwell smoot

meh double post

that bit - it fits in front of the upper receiver on the Wa and the G&P while its cast into front of the upper on the AGM goiong by parts diagram I think the WA uses the captive nut to hold the pistol grip too (the ino screws in directly to the lower)

in safe all that matters is that the internal paddle of the selector prevents the two rear fingers of the main trigger part from moving - that stops the trigger pivoting far enough for the hammer to be released from the front trigger hooks the rear trigger hook (the sprung loaded part at rear of the trigger) comes into play in auto and semi in auto the selector paddle moves backwards far enough to clear the rear legs of the trigger, allowing the trigger to pivot and disengage the front hooks from the hammer, while maintaining pressure on the rear trigger hook finger so that part rema

couple of things Ive not seen mentioned (might just have missed them) if anyones buying upgrade parts theres no point spending dough on a steel barrel extension as the barrel extension is cast as part of the upper rather than a seperate part on these despite loking for all the world like some sort of weird security screw (to the point I actually dug out a box of security tool bits) the pistol grip bolt is just an allen bolt (with some *fruitcage* awful amount of chewed up head lol) It screws into a captive nut thats held in the lower rather than threading directly into the low

nopes guns not here yet, I just dont like idea of cast metal mags of this sort of size - its not a design I'd have confidence in for a pressure bearing container. Based on their AK mags I'm not going to get my hopes up on the GHKs working flawlessly (if they do thats a bonus), but even if they have issues I'd be more willing to tweak them than stick gas into any of the cast ones

make for a good vampire game, no sooner do folks come out of the shadows and hit the direct sunlight when woosh!!! they go up like a roman candle..

to be honest the whole idea of a big slab-sided pot metal gas reservoir always gives me the willies (never mind one that significantly swells up) so I think I'll see how much of a tweak I can do to GHK mags and settle on those if at all poss

rumour had it as being in couple of months from now

cheers for that

grab the steel bolt carrier, adjustable npas bolt, CNC'd hop unit and steel selector paddle and it should be good to go - around 300 dollars of upgrades onto whats currently a 350 dollar gun. if you wanted to go whole hog then full gun with all the parts would work out around 770 however 350 of that is price of the gun and dBoys are bringing there version out which might knock a chunk off the total

anyone with a GHK M4 mag to hand that can measure up and let me know the length and width of one of its two aluminium internal tubes?

justin over at daytona gun has: all the firecontrol parts available in steel - hammer, trigger, trigger hook, hammer sear, valve knocker, selector bolt carrier in steel CNC'd hop up unit (anodized black) CNC'd standard type bolt Ra-tech have: bolt carier in steel CNC'd hop unit (plain silver) CNCd adjustable NPAS bolt GHK mags are available green gas and CO2 caplet versions tightbore barrel? pick whatever you want - all the hop units (GHK RATech and Daytonagun) all take standard AEG barrels. about the only parts you CANT get third party are: rec

full set of internal gubbins now ordered, girl over at RA-tech was nice enough to go source some inokatsu steel bits n bobbles I was after on a 'If you're happy enough to modify them then dont blame me if they dont fit' basis, so no need to shove a seperate order into WGC for those. still cant decide on the damn externals.. I figure best bet is just to get it all up and running in the AGM receiver first and take it from there Mag wise Ive stuck a GHK one on the RA-T order to take a look at but going to keep my options open rather than comit to a bundle of mags (I dont really fancy th

well you should have asked the shop to charge you 300 for the gun then.. would that make you feel better about cost of the mags?