-l-
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Posts posted by -l-
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Hi Yanng, would be particularly interesting how well it works outside in this kind of weather.
I'd also love to know about things like from all you WE users:
-Compatibility, especially to AEG Rail systems, such as the G&P, VFC or Dboys RIS, Flashhiders (is it 14mm+ or -) and the likes
-How well do replica sights handle the rifles' recoil (which i guess is nowehre near the real thing, but well, some of those ACM acogs...)
stuff like that
thanks a lot
Hello Chevieblazer
Please check http://gasguns.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=259
This contain a brief report of all RS/Replica accesssories we tried on the WE, you may found something useful in there.
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Ya I tried that...had the damn thing locked in a vice grip. No joy on getting it out.
hmm... may be they put something like screw adhesive in it.
Let me seek another way to do it...
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Are you sure it wasn't just the paint that was worn? Because the bolt carrier is supposedly made of steel. I doubt a pot metal bolt catch would be able to cause any appreciable damage to that part.
Most likely any bolt lock problem is due to the pot metal bolt catch. which AB will send you a steel one for the shipping price if you bought your gun from him. Not sure whether or not he would send you one for the shipping price if you bought your gun from someone else.
* Unless yours bolt carrier is special made, I am pretty sure the bolt carrier is made of zinc. (Only Ino's M4 come with steel bolt carrier as far as I can remember)
* The original bolt lock may be made by pot metal. But if you look closely to the area that contact to the bolt carrier on the bolt lock, there is a small round piece of steel metal on it.
* Since steel is harder than zinc, the bolt carrier worn out.
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how did you unscrew the valve to separate the pieces?
---> http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...t&p=1962794 -
One of the reason the bolt lock don't work:
Many of you who own a WE probably noticed the the bit pointed by the blue arrow is worn out (I even file it a bit which make it worse). This is where the bolt contact the bolt lock, as this bit worn out further the bolt will slip away from it. The only quick fix I can think of is to file it until it is flat again.
I already forward this problem to AFC/WE, they should come up with some solution/refine on parts sooner or later.
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I think the same capacity as Tm standards ie 68 would be good. Is there enough gas per mag for 100 shots?
I understand that they would probably redesign the gas chamber but enough gas for 100 rounds from a GBB rifle would need a huge chamber would it not?
The original 30 round mag's gas chamber can hold enough gas to shot 60-80 rounds already.
I really want WE to make a gas MG/SAW though
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What about higher capacity mags? As fun as reloads are with the bolt catch, 30 rounds isn't much when you're facing aegs with 1000 round sound activated auto loading magazines.
"30 rounds isn't much when you're facing aegs with 1000" <----- you shouldn't put yourself in this kind of sitation at first place...
Don't bring low-caps to a "trigger happy" game. lol
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Can you find out what the FPS is before and after that modification? I'm very curious.
And nicely done!
sorry that I don't have the speedmetre thingy at home. But I will tell you more detail on the test any way. I used marui 0.2g BB, before mod it can penetrate the bottom of a soft drink can. After the mod it can only penetrate one side of the can. Hope it helps.
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Alright alright, tried a few new things
steel bolt lock- lock and release it about 120 times, still in good shape not deformed like the original one. However it just refuse to lock in most of the time semi or auto, may be the spring in the may that pushes the bolt lock is not strong enough to push the heavier steel bolt lock. A solution is yet to be discovered.
new hop rubber- Yet to be test
New method to reduce fps- all you need is a 7mm bearing from an AEG gear box, plastic one preferably.
The theory is simple the bearing act as a spacer and pushes the valve forward, hence less gas in allowed into the chamber. I tried to shoot a few rounds and the power is dramatically reduced even though mine M4 is the AFC local version that shoots 400fps+. I don't know if there is any long term problem cause by doing this mod, so DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK!
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hello guys, some news update here.
I just make a stop at AFC yesterday and I was given a steel bolt lock and a new hop rubber. I also saw quite a number of new "power down" valves is already been made, staff said that new batch of gun will be fitted with those. Don't know if the overseas version will be fitted with those, but it is a good news to the UK players as they have a 1J legal power limit.
Due to the original hop rubber is for heavy 0.43g BB that is not that common, we were given a new hop rubber which is softer to match lighter BBs.
I also heard there is another fps lower method that reqire no mod to the valve. However that yet to be tested. I will upload some photo later and keep you guys update.
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Has anyone here bought a WE and had it last more than a couple games without needing a couple of new parts? This doesn't seem like a very wise investment so far.
I know that WE GBB wasn't the most realistic looking M4 on the market but I can say it is the most skirmish-able GBB M4 so far. In my last GBB game I saw a few case that WA just refuse to shoot at the moment of truth and Inokatsu just turn into a BB shuttering machine. Yes, some parts will broke. However broken bolt lock and charging handle won't stop you from firing BB from the gun, furthermore it have the best after purchase services I have ever seen.
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Someone PM me about how to take out the value, this is how you do it.
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I would really much like to know that too. Shouldn't be too expensive to get such a part. And seems pretty easy to swap it.
I would love to have such part that's tuned for around 400-415 fps with GG (in about 20-25 degree Celcius weather).
I've heard that WE is already planned to make different version of bolt with different power setting, should be much easier to just swap the bolt in the field.
Hardly off topic, I think it's a very good topic to discuss for GBBs. First I'd like to point out that a good number of real military operators and police officers carry magazines with ammo down so you can use magpuls/rangerplates/tape-and-band magazine extractors. Some just do it because it makes reloading much easier. Makes for one smooth motion. I rarely get dirt on the inside of my mag pouches, the dump pouch is a different storey but in the mag pouches never. I use closed tops and they remain firmly and snugly closed. With a GBB like the WA's I would worry about the magazine feedlips breaking off. The WE could have this same issue. Something like a cut up dead rag in the bottom of a mag pouch may do wonders for the longevity of the magazines.Yea, I am using magpul on my mags, don't really have a choice but to put them up side down.
FastMag's hard case design seems to help protecting the feedlips as well.
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btw... some new tips
those corner circled on the mag is quite sharp, you may want to file it a bit to prevent them to cut a hole on your favorite tactical nylon
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I don't think that's such a good idea, because I'm pretty sure that's where the bolt catch contacts the bolt to stop it...
hmm...you could be right, I will follow this up after I talk to the technical staff....
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Roecar, where in the HELL did you hear that info? lol.
I've heard the same thing from James couple of weeks ago
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Does the M4 stutter when firing in full auto?
negatory for me so far..
I guess it does
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9GzTBg8FCw...feature=related
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something info on internal modification
you can file away the sharp corner pointed by the BLUE arrow, this should stop the bolt stretching the brass cylinder which is the cause of the production of metal dust inside the bolt.
if you want to reduce the power of your M4 the valve (pointed by the ORANGE arrow) is the part you need to replace, I have already change it to a customize one with 2x 4mm holes.
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Hi -|-,
What's the fps on yr M4? I can't seem to find the trademarked one that shoots 480+ fps. And where did u get it from?
Nice mod, mate!
Thanks.
sorry, I get mine directly from AFC shop, I have no idea where to get one with trades in the State.But if you only concern about the power, I can tell you that the fps depends on the valve. It seems that the valve can be adjust along the silver rod inside the bolt and that controls the power of the gun.(Orange arrow is the valve, mine is not the original one)
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second that!
Also, where did you get the stock?
Cheers
The CASV rail is just stacked on the rail of the upper receiver. The only thing you need to remove is that round metal plate/cap(sorry I don't know what is that called) which touching the original front sight.
As for the stock, you can get it from WGC, there are 2 version, CTR and MOE.
CTR is the standard model, MOE is a simplified version of CTR but cost less to buy.
http://www.wargameclub.com/pcart/shopper.p...REA_srch_magpul
http://www.wargameclub.com/pcart/shopper.p...TDE_srch_magpul
however if you live in the USA...real steel CTR(for mil spec buffer tube) can also fit in WE
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Since I posted it on GGI, I will post it here as well; Just to share what I know. English wasn't my mother tongue, so I apologize in advance for my crappy grammar. You guys can probably guess how the adjustable hop-up unit works by looking at these photos.
This is how the adjustable hop-up unit works. When the black ring is twisted, it pushed the grey ring to go forward. The grey ring will push in the small ball bearing which pushes the rubber on the barrel.
This is my stupid way to swap the inner barrel, probably not the best way to do it FOLLOW IT ON YOUR OWN RISK.
(updated: a numbers of individual already tried this method, so far without any negative feedback.)
remove front sight/gas block, delta ring
there is 2 pin you need to remove,a big one and a small one; Small pin locks the inner barrel and the big one lock the black round thing (whatever you want to call it). DON'T pull the inner barrel out when you removed the small pin, because the small ball bearing will drop inside
Be careful when removing the grey ring, because a small ball bearing is under it and you don't want to loose the ball bearing!
Always remember which side of the grey ring face forward!
Add some oil/lub on the inner sider in the black ring. And you should be able turn the ring with the help of a screw driver through the shell eject. If your finger is small enough you can also adjust the hop from the mag well.
finished!
A little FAQs (will be updated from time to time):
Q: The small pin that locks the inner barrel is very hard to put back in, any tips?
A: Try to push the inner barrel towards the receivers and put the pin in at the same time, this may help.
Q: Is there a way to take the Hop-Up unit out the upper receiver?
A: Remove the bigger pin and the "black round thing". Open up the receivers and you can use the charging handle pull the whole unit out from the back.
Q: The BB goes up really strong even I only turn the hop up a little bit, how come?
A: May be you put the grey ring in the wrong direction...
Q: I am planning on installing a new flash hider, what shout I choose?
A: Any flash hider that fit 14mm(clockwise), preferable with the little cap head bolt you can screw in on the side. The shock wave created by the blow back cause the muzzle devices to go loose .
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WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine
in Rifles (Gas)
Posted
Slu is right, there are 2 version
*WE-tech original Version
-color is painted on
-No trades engraved
*AFC custom Version (This is probably the so-called "WGC custom")
-color anodized on
-Trades engraved and non-engraved version both available
About the bolt catch: Both gun come with the weak bolt catch in the first shipment, steel bolt will be installed on those of 2nd shipment.
About the fps: The WE rep told me yesterday that they can made about bolt carriers in about 8 different powers to match different countries' legal limits. So, the WE you buy it from different country may have different fps.