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machgo

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Posts posted by machgo

  1. I found that a piece of zip tie was perfect on my gun--placed loosely between the trigger and trigger bar.  I subsequently made a replacement out of some styrene model sprue.  Same result--the trigger bar needs to travel just a millimeter or 2 more than it does stock.

     

    I recently revisited my P90 after it sat idle for a while.  All the mags leaked, some quite ferociously, and the nozzle cracked and then jammed in the bolt.  This is a result of the nozzle cracking at the small hole the pin passes through.  The home made pin walked out and jammed up in the bolt.  New nozzle on the way from KY Airsoft...

  2. On a completely different note--

     

    I have horrible full auto on my sample, and it is coincedent with the installation of the Hephaestus steel trigger kit.  I can not say for certain that the kit caused it, but apparently this is a somewhat known issue of incorrect mechanical timing or interaction that can be corrected by filing a certain part.

     

    This was mentioned a few pages back...

     

    Any illumination--and especially pictures--would be very welcome :D :D :D

    • Like 1
  3. The RA Tech parts kit has received some bad press for fitment issues.  The Hephaestus set goes in pretty easy, though I did have to buff some tooling marks out with emery cloth.  And I also picked up a wonky issue with full auto, but I'm not positive that it's from the parts kit...

     

    You might as well order the parts--the hammer will fail.  To my under-educated eye, the parts in the pic look stock to me.

  4. One other thing I found with the HP sets is that their full auto sear has too much material on the bit that interacts with the bolt, leading to inconsistent full auto as the hammer falls before the bolt is fully in battery.

     

    Taking about 1-2mm off it in the right place makes all the difference.

     

    Could you elaborate on that please?  After installing the kit, my full auto is pitiful.  It is especially bad when combined with the WE short stroke kit--BBs basically just spit out the barrel.

  5. I have never seen a non branded kwa mag, just these.

     

    http://www.evike.com/products/26977/

     Even the Craft Apple Works mags, which are not particularly good, say .45 ACP on the plastic housing.  The new ones I just received say nothing at all. ?????

     

    When they lost the KRISS licence, KWA promissed to keep making mags for the existing Vectors out there, it would make sense for them to remove the markings beyond that point. Just my 0.02, take it with the apropriate amount of salt.

    That makes sense and could very well be the case.  Mags look to be of good quality and hold gas.  Haven't tested them yet though.

  6. I just today received 2 mags I bought from evilbay:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/262529271454?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

     

    They came in KWA boxes, and have orange warning stickers (on the mag itself) that appear identical to ones applied to KZ61 mags I've purchased elsewhere( and are definitely genuine KWA product).  They do NOT say KWA, .45 ACP, KRISS VECTOR or anything else for that matter, such as the one (definitely) genuine mag I have, or the Craft Apple Works mag I have.

     

    Did KWA stop putting markings on the plastic housing of the mag?  Or have I been taken?

     

    Thanks for the tip about Airsoft Atlanta ^^^

  7.  

    Yah; 

     

    Metal shell o-ring; 
    CS: 1.0mm
    ID: 13.0mm
    OD: 15.0mm
     
    Rim outer o-ring; 
    CS: 1.5mm
    ID: 13.0mm
    OD: 16.0mm
     
    Inner o-rings (APS OEM); 
    CS: 2.0mm
    ID: 5.0mm
    OD: 9.0mm
     
    Guarders are a fraction tighter, I would guess maybe 2.1 CS rather than 2 or something like that. 
     
    CS= Cross Section/Thickness
    ID: Inner Dimension
    OD: Outer Dimension
     
     
    Oh and I think I know now why that sample shell was a bit leaky. Only one of the ones I tested that I had not installed Guarder o-rings in :P

     

     

     

    You are THE man.  Enjoying the videos as well.  Thank you!

    • Like 1
  8. Your probably holding it wrong. The stock is meant to sit pretty entral on your chest, as for sighting just look forward.

     

    on my phone, my spelling will suck

     

    I'll give this a try.  I am 6 feet tall with arms proportionate to that height.  It just seems that I really have to crane my neck to get my cheek onto the stock so I can use the sights.  I don't skirmish, so I was wondering how anyone really sights down this thing, what with hip firing being disallowed.  Of course a red dot would probably help but I've been lazy in digging one out and putting it on.  I also do notice some hand/wrist fatigue when doing double and triple taps.

  9. The G39 and the SMG8 are the most playable WE gbbr out of the box, but only the G39 will work a long time ^^

     

    Second that, although I'm not as sure about the SMG-8 as the G39.

     

    The product is definitely not for the faint of heart.  Expect to make repairs and do service VERY regularly.  If this were a car, it would absolutely be declared a lemon.  If it were a toaster, there would be mass returns and the landfills would be teeming with them.  But being an airsoft product, apologies are made for it.

     

    It is fun the shoot and it has the appeal of being the only GBB P90.  If it were an M4, NO one would bother with this siht pile.

    • Like 1
  10. I received the Z-parts set pictured below from Red Wolf very quickly, and installed it right away.

     

    Fitment is perfect, with absolutely no filing or modifying required.  Gun once again shoots in semi and full auto.

     

    Definitely recommended if your shttiy zinc parts are breaking or worn.

     

    ZPS-WE-P90-002-1L.jpg

  11. I guess I have to decide if I want to change ten dollars of parts every couple thousand rounds or pay 60 or so dollars for--I hope--a final solution...

     

    Not going for the full trigger box in any event, as I don't think a lot of the parts are prone to failure.  Looking at the sear and hammer set myself. Thanks mechakon for the input.

     

    Renegade Cow--what's your feeling on changing JUST the hammer and sear set to steel, and leaving everything else stock?

     

    ZPS-WE-P90-003-1L.jpg

  12. If "zamac" means pure fkunicg garbage, you are 100 per cent correct...

    Chalk up another failure:

     

     

     

    Pin 25 is also bent, as Renegade Cow mentioned.  The semi auto sear yielded to absolutely minimal side pressure while removing the trigger pack from the housing.

     

    What is the consensus on the steel parts sets mentioned above?  I would like to avoid dumping too much more money into this junk pile, but would like to fix it...seems like stock parts would fail early, as they have already--this gun has not had that many rounds through it.post-12608-0-76226200-1464899485_thumb.jpg

  13. Great review and excellent pictures!

     

    That is a sweet Makarov you got there ^ ^ ^

     

    I noticed on mine that the extended inner barrel, or possibly the "primary" barrel, was machined poorly resulting in a small offset that had the effect of shaving BBs and applying tremendous hop up.  Some careful work with emery cloth on the top, inside of the extended barrel got it sorted out.

     

    My example also gets great gas mileage. 

     

    One minor niggle--the decocker will fail if I don't apply it quickly enough.  If I sneak up on it, it does not decock the weapon.  If I try it again, sharply, it works perfectly.

     

    All in all a really nice pistol.

  14. Good video!  Not sure I would use a silicone adhesive on the moving valve as you have, but if it works, great!  Did you seal up the base plate also?  I don't recall seeing that in the video.  That seal is prone to leak as well, and violently, as there is only a very thin O ring to seal the rectangular piece.  I used an automotive gasket making material to repair that yesterday.

     

    My P90 suffered a breakdown today that I've never seen before in any gun.  The pin that holds the two halves of the nozzle together as well as the nozzle return spring, broke in half--right in the middle, inside the nozzle--allowing the return spring to come off.  The spring itself was completely fine.  On one side of the nozzle the plastic was slightly cracked and swollen around the hole for the pin.  A little file work was required to allow the nozzle to move smoothly through the track piece.

     

    One good thing I observed was the use of thread locker on the screws in the bolt assembly.

  15. I have one mag leaking from the release valve--other two mags are OK (for now).

     

    I bought these:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/172126151837?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

     

    Haven't received them so I can't vouch for them.  But this is the O ring that is leaky on mine--part number 134.

     

    The manual is very useful in that it gives the O ring dimensions.  So a web search should give good results.

     

    On a positive note, my new nylon bolt stop has outlived all previous iterations of the part.

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