n00bTard
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Posts posted by n00bTard
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EDIT: DangDiddlyDoublePost
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My very battle weary USPs:
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My G3 family guns:
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G2A2 thingy...:
G36, soon to be MG36:
AG36:
G36K:
The Family:
Can't believe I left the date on my camera...
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I emailed them too - no reply yet.
It was strange - when I removed my switch, I saw tell-tale signs that someone had attempted to file it down to be a better fit - just like had been discussed as a possible fix earlier in this thread.
This leads me to believe that AirsoftGI sent me either a return, or one that they had attempted to fix in-store before sending it out. Mine of course had the auto-lock problem during its first skirmish. I was tempted to just send it back, but I had the parts to fix it so I went ahead and opened it up.
I'm still really irked though that this is a known issue that retailers are trying to fix before sending out the guns, and its still happening. At least mine is fixed, but it would be nice to get a response from VFC on the issue.
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I had problems with the mag catch too - you have to push it in as far as it can go, then rotate the arm - be very careful when trying to clear the bolt release not to scratch anything up.
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That is correct
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Holy doublepostingdouchenozzle forums Batman.
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The only difference between the two, is that the one is designed to route the battery connection wires forward to the handguard, the other routes them back to the stock.
Here's my findings:
You'll need a systema selector plate, unless you swap the wires around within the plastic switch assembly like I did. But, then if you do that, you're definitely still routing the wires forward to the handguard, and not back to the stock. Also, you end up still using the round VFC connections to the fuse. You could snip and solder these to longer wires and different plugs though and route it however you like. This is what I was going to try, but could not find a route that I was comfortable with that wouldn't crush the wires.
If you keep the systema switch and wires, they have more universal connections that you can use with whatever wiring you like, or solder straight to some tamiya connections. Either way, the systema switch "casing" will need some mods to fit.
If you get the one meant to route to the stock: once in the gearbox, I found the channels to route wires waaay too small to try and route the wires through the box and out the back. If anyone has accomplished this, please let me know how you did it!
If you're comfortable with V2 gearboxes, it's a very simple fix. However, getting the gearbox out of this gun I've found to quite a PITA. I would not recommend this for your first experience taking an M4-style gun and gearbox apart.
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I just replaced my switch - worked beautifully.
What I did was: I took the VFC switch out, which if you're familiar with a V2 gearbox at all, shouldn't be a problem - it's just one screw holding it in, after you get the wires all out of their channels.
Then, I unscrewed the face plate from the VFC switch, and carefully removed all the contacts and wires. I then did the same to the Systema switch, and transfered everything from the VFC to the Systema - this way, I did not need to get a Systema selector plate.
Now, the newly assembled switch was a little too big vertically to fit back in, so a little sanding took care of that until I was able to fit it in. There were also a few little nubs on the back that are not present on the VFC - again, sanding them off took care of that. Buttoned it back up, and now the gun shoots beautifully.
However, for the life of me, I could not figure out a way to wire it to the stock, there was not nearly enough room to route the wires back through the gearbox, and the body is sooo tight around the mechbox that externally routing it didn't seem to work either.
Those of you who have rewired it to the stock - did you snip the round plugs off the gearbox and solder it to new wires? Did you keep your fuse? What's the best "channel" to get the wires to the rear? I've seen several methods discussed in this thread, but none of them worked for me at all for some reason, and I spent hours on this yesterday...
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Ugh, my first skirmish with the gun, and it starts firing full auto and wouldn't stop until I disconnected the battery.
I'm disappointed, but I'm glad I had read this thread. I had ordered a system low-res switch with the gun, and figured it was inevitable before it needed it. So, time to take it apart, rewire it, get it using my Clubfoot stock, and get a tightbore in there, M120, etc, etc...
Thanks again for all your help guys.
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Wow, I thought so, but that just seemed too easy. Excellent design.
Thanks guys.
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A big thank you to all who took the time to post information in this thread. You helped convince me to take the plunge and buy one.
It arrived yesterday
:) 
I love it.
I've got a STAR clubfoot stock, tightbore, Halo silencer and aimpoint coming in next week. I really appreciate the tips on how to wire it up.
Quick question - how do the body pins come out? just punch them out?
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They are not the same. KSC USP compact mags do not work in the USP .45 or the Mk23. USP .45 mags do not quite fit in the Mk23 either.
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Seki,
Someone here on arnies bought a STAR G36 with bipod and dual optic handle and wrote a very nice review with pictures of the internals etc.
I can't find it though... anyone remember his name?
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That is one impressive video game collection. Every generation on one shelf.
Oh, and gorgeous rifle too.
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Oh, and Weasel, that K looks surprisingly good with that SPR flash hider.
Yeah, a little phallic, but I was thinking the same thing of my G2a2, especially when I thought about putting a Cmag on there... yeah.. it'll basically be a giant wang.
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Personally, I love the AG36. Just realize, its a huge investment - not just in the launcher itself, but once you start skirmishing with it, you quickly realize something - grenades are a ton of fun (when used well).
And the only way to use grenades truely effectively, is to have lots of them. Then, once you have lots of them, you start to want more - you get to thinking, "you know, if I had a bunch of those Co2 grenades from madbull, I could be even more effective with this thing" - and before you know it, you have hundreds of dollars tied up in grenades, extra bearings and O-rings, and spend 3 hours the night before every skirmish rebuilding, testing and tuning your grenades to have them ready for the next day.
Its a sickness. But it sure is fun.
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As requested, the AGSL abomination:
It actually feels pretty nice - easy to shoulder, aim, not too heavy, still, I wouldn't skirmish this. I put my two favorite guns right back together after taking these pics. Hope you enjoy though.
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Holy Laggy Forums Batman!!!
Please forgive the double-post
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the "play" in the magwell is do to the back portion of it being hollow to allow the original G36 mag catch to still be able to move around in there. The original G36 mag catch is part of the lower receiver, and doesn't get removed when you remove the original mag well.
So, what I do is: use double sided tape to attach a tiny bit of foam or other material to the original G36 mag catch. This will lock the M4 mags in securely, but also let you swap back and forth between the two magwells in seconds, and when you rip the tap off to allow G36 mags again, it only cost you a couple seconds and about 10 cents worth of material.
Hope that helps.
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Oh I know - we've been corresponding for months on what we wanted to do since CA announced their SL9 version was coming. Kov's a great guy. We started talking about the G2A2-type rifle ever since I posted this pic months ago:
The day Kov PMd me to tell me the CA8-2 was in stock at UNcompany, that was a happy day in deed.
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If you ask really nice
Ok, give me a couple days - I have to borrow a camera, as mine doesn't like to work right now
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Thanks guys, your comments are always appreciated.
And Drock, I have a guy at my field who wired his Cmag up just like, and I was planning on doing similar, should I take the plunge the purchase one.
I used to have the STAR autowinder, but could not get it to feed reliably no matter what I did. I found a mod to increase it to a 9v from the two double-As it was currently using, but sold it before I got the chance to see if that fixed it.
I'm hoping a CA G36 Cmag will be a good solution, especially with a few tune ups. +1 coming your way.
VFC HK416
in Rifles (AEG)
Posted
Yeah, it was clearly filed - almost like they knew about the problem, and tried to fix it by filing the switch block down.
It uh.. yeah.. obviously didn't work. My faith in VFC is shaken, as everything else about the gun is soooooo nice, but because of a 50 cent piece of plastic being too big, the whole thing was made unuseable out of the box, making us sink $15+ on a new switch and making us open up the gearbox.
However, its just so beautiful and nice to hold, that I just can't stay mad at her for very long