rottenotto

A "tester"?!! Its made by WE, OF COURSE it leaks!!!

I agree 100,000% about TSC. And if the truth was told?? There isnt ONE single aftermarket "upgrade" part for the WE worth a dime. (Cosmetic parts and "barrels" are one thing....supposed "internal enhancements" are another.) And as for these "enhanced parts"? People, save your money.

Tight is good!!! Hell, wobble SUCKS!

^NAZIO Have a look at the wiki page under trouble shooting/lower receiver. There is a post for "mags falling out from recoil" - I just updated the verbage for you. Trouble shooting;Lower receiver;Mags falling out of magwell The trouble shooting section covers most issues. (90%)

Cant used the old brass nozzles with the Co2 setup, unfortunately. Different shape and just wont work. Must use the old 'non Co2 setup' (gas only). Maybe if WE is listening again, they will make a new Co2 nozzle out of steel with smaller windows/ports like the old brass nozzle heads. There is no question there is some issue with the WIDE OPEN PORTS on the steel nozzles, gas and Co2. It needs some revision.

Alston251 They finally listened to all of us on the boards...DITCH THAT HORRIBLE GREEN SILICONE MATERIAL FOR THE HOP MATERIAL! Thats good news - now we have two durometer hop rubbers (Like Prometheus for AEG's). It was good intentions (using the green high durometer material) since the guns were designed to shoot at almost 500fps. The problem is, most people tuned the guns down to skirmish levels - and at the lower fps, the guns were badly overhopped. Made worse by trying to use bb's lighter than a .30g. Nazio Im not positive I understand your post/question? If you

Too flexy. You need a GOOD set of needle nose pliers with teeth. This is to hold the rod not turn it (in the place I described, under the tube/spacer) Heat the brass (or steel) nozzle - you dont need a ton of heat. And you dont want to melt the O-rings. Slip a thin allen key through the port windows of the brass (or steel) nozzle head to create a "t handle" of sorts....and unscrew the nozzle. Comes right off. PS... If there is the slightest bit of flex in any of your tools - needle nose grips/pliers - or the tool you insert across the ports of teh nozzle - all

.30 at least......or heavier. .20 isnt even close to an option. I use KSC perfect .30g and swear it is the BEST surface when used wih the new gen2 "two lip" hop rubber.

Hey Alston251 And anybody else attempting to take off/unthread the nozzle. Slide the plastic tube/spacer down the rod - AWAY from the nozzle. With your leatherman pliers or whatever tool you like - You grip RIGHT WHERE THE SPACER WAS! You can scar the living *chaffinch* out of it - it wont matter. The tube slides back in place over the scarred area - that part of the rod cant go into the piston head. Its forbidden by this spacer. So no rough or gritty operation.

Nope, never needed to "mod" it......but you DO have to select a good rubber. They are VERY inconsistent. I wrote about this here on the forum way back when they were first released (picking out a good rubber bucking). I really need to add a post at the WIKI site.......basically showing the inconsistencies in them and picking out the best bucking; One that just peaks through the inner barrel and no more. I have been so busy with work though - summer is my busy season. The gen2 hop up rubbers are NOT all the same and was the reason for WILDLY different reviews as for its perform

Correct. The original brass nozzles with small window ports are perfectly consistent. Never any fluctuation in power. Never any "pfft" shots where the bb only goes 40 feet into the ground. The steel nozzles (gas use only) that came out with the larger window ports are a problem. In three guns, they immediately started causing the erratic power problem described above when installed. When they were removed and the brass nozzles refitted, the problem immediately went away. We tried the steel nozzles again for the Hell of it, refitting them back in, and the problem was back. There is NO

JM I have the gun at 480 all the time. I dont skirmish it, so no need for FPS reduction. I use KSC .30 perfect bb's.....sooooo consistent with the revised hop rubber. Every shot. The biggest problem I had briefly, was what others complaining about.......it shoots nice and snappy for a few rounds on semi, then starts shooting soft, then snappy again. It was simply the steeel nozzle causing it......three guns. We switched back to brass nozzles with the SMALL window ports, and all the guns fired like champs again. Im convinced that the root of the power inconsistency is the

The white stabilizer? You SOOO dont need that. Just center the nozzle head and blue locktite the end bolt. (directions at wiki post) The stabilizer is another case of "good idea/poor execution". stabilizer review and pics

Thanks Boost You just saved me money. My setup has been the propane mags, BRASS nozzle head, and steel floating valve. new hopup & inner barrel. The gun shoots laser beam straight to ungodly distances. Its just the damn mags.......leak just awful. They need to be CONSTANTLY used to keep from leaking. If they sit, they are done. It takes a few days of refilling and venting to recondition them. And still, they pizz just a bit. I didnt want to redo my gun for CO2.......now there is no way I would bother. If somebody would come out with a better mag, I woul

Okay,... It is mid summer..... And I'd trade my kingdom FOR A GAWDDAMNED MAGAZINE THAT DOESNT LEAK!!! Some quick help? Do the Co2 mags leak as bad as these gawdawful propane mags?