rottenotto

BBs dont get stuck in the chamber until there is a misfeed. Misfeeds are caused by too much silicone in the gas mixture. One misfeed leads to double loading. Double loading leads to "chopped bb's" and wadding. I had bb's wadded in the chamber so fiercly I had to use a an AR15 cleaning rod to smash them out. This is when we experimented with canned gas vs Propane for the WIKI post. You can take a perfect working WE rifle and cause chopping and wadding by just using a canned green gas with too much silicone. From 'swan to toad' in just one magazine.

I did,....and after a burst, the last bb loaded rolls out the barrel when I point the gun to the ground. Every time. I have a chromed barrel coming from William next week. When I change it out, and everything is apart again, Ill post a video on the WIKI post. Ill fire the gun with no 'gen 1' hop rubber and youll see what I am talking about. We are talking less than 1mm (!!) between the last ridge of the chamber and the hop dot - cant you see its resting against the green dot for gawds sake. Its so obvious. Look at the pics and NOT "speculative" illustrations. And lastly, clean

Well let me say this. Mid summer we are going to hold the "WE M4 Olympics". Then we can see who really knows how this gun works - and who knows how to tune them.

No it DOESN'T - that is the problem. Clean your inner barrel if you want the bb to fly straigh/level/consistent.

Beautiful illustrations coco. But the bb is stopping further than you have drawn - Seen in the actual photos. You can plainly see the ridge in the rubber chamber (#117) in the actual photo. The bb is ahead of this so it isnt being held by the rubber chamber any longer. It is being kept from rolling out the barrel by the green dot. The chamber seal is slowing the bb down as a sort of side effect. (at most) If things worked as you have illustrated, then bb's would not roll out the barrel when you sand down (or cut or grind or whatever) the green dot - but they do. That

'Chopping bb's' is a 'misfeed issue'. And its usually caused by too much silicone in the gas mixture.

This might be an illusion. I dropped the bolt to load a bb - then pullled the bolt back - and peered in from ejection port side. The bb is sitting ahead of the rubber chamber - maybe sitting on the last ring of rubber - and stopped squarely against the green mirco dot (hopup). ** The green microdot is immediately after the last ring of the rubber chamber - too close - too crammed. As I wrote on the last page. It is what ultimately stops the bb. Anybody on this forum who sanded down the green hop bucking (including myself) to stop the "overhopped" condition immediately had

Hey there Accuracy Yeah for the very first time I have. All winter it was great, But now with 90 degrees - and EXTREME rate of fire and kick - a couple mags didnt lock the bolt open after the mag was empty. This was on Full auto - in semi it would catch. What that tells me is the speed of the bolt movement is too much and the bolt catch cant do its job. Its too frantic in full auto and it doesnt have the chance to get in there and stop it. It just keeps getting knocked away. One shot in semi is plenty of time for the bolt stop to engage. Thats been my experience.

LOL. Thanks for understanding ; ) Gotcha on your fix and solutions. Another way to resolve the issue of the seal imparting spin etc, is to MOVE THE HOP UP FORWARD ANOTHER INCH. Keep it away from the rubber chamber. Let the bb rest in a sort of "staging area" between the rubber chamber and hop nub. A 'Neutral Zone'. Western Arms saw the same problem and they just moved the hop up chamber far enough forward - in fact on the other side of the Delta ring actually - so that the bb was neutral going into the hop. WE-tech obviosuly wanted to keep the hop unit and adjuster in the "nor

I appreciate your input D4n. I read your post twice to be sure I got all your points. Ill just share with you my own experience for what its worth concerning part #117, the rubber bb chamber. These types of chambers - especially ones with "ribs" - are a relatively new addition to GBB rifles. And they are so misunderstood. Were they invented yesterday? No, but it wasnt that long ago that they didnt exist at all in GBB rifles like Escort Shoeis. My first SHOEI MP44 wasnt just a dog - it was a dog with fleas. It didnt have a rubber bb chamber (breech rubber) beh

This is a problem for ALL gbb guns/rifles. The hop up rubber (silicone material whatever) and not the rubber BB chamber is what stops the bb from rolling out of the barrel. Ultimately. All that the 1st, black rubber, bb chamber does is slow the bb down really - and provide a seal around the nozzle. Thats it. The hopup has to be switched "on" enough to stop the bb. And usually its enough to 'overhop' as a result. If you dial it back manually by turning 'off' the hop, or modding the rubber so there is less hop affect, the bb's roll out of the barrel and you also get misfeed

Just bought one 1 minute ago! Well,.....today was the day I have been waiting for - for MONTHS! ITS SUMMER! We have 90 degree temps here in New England. And gawd damn - this thing fires flawlessly. Mag after mag - ZERO venting - not one hiccup - just blazing ROF and hard kick. I knew it - if this thing was working as good as it did in the winter, I knew it was going to be a beast come summer. Now if I can only get the accuracy in the ballpark. Well see once the new inner barrel and redisgned hopup get here.

It would sure be more useful than "faux ant rotation pins".

Can I get an Amen?? If we are talking $1700.00 for a SHOEI gbb MP44, it makes sense. How? A >real< MP44 is unobtainable. And if you are lucky enough to have a "class 3", the price (last one I saw for sale) was $33,000.00 dollars. BUT,... A lowly M4??? Are you nuts?! I can buy real Bushmasters all day long for under $500.00. To spend that on just the receiver of an airsoft gun, - a COMMON gun, - is insanity. Just think about it. Go get your 'Class A' license and buy real stuff. I draw the line too.

Double true. Dont even >think< of running a clone eotech (like Dragon Red versions) on the WE. The cheesy "knock off" lever that keeps the battery door close, flies open instantly. And the recoil will actually turn the unit "on" when you pull the trigger.

The symptoms you reported are classic "floating nozzle valve broke/or about to break". It isnt sealing off - the bolt isnt blowing back far enough (or at all) - the firing pin is staying on the mag valve, venting the whole mag in one smelly loud burst "PFFFFFFT...."

LOL...might be a "good video" for the short mags.......but damn, thats a horrible video for the WE M4! That gun is firing like a COMPLETE POS. lol.....I would run away from the WE after seeing a video firing like that (If I didn't know any better). Jeesh!

Check the tiny, loose fitting, floating valve located in the nozzle head. It is either broken or starting to "go away". Check first and Ill explain later whats happening.

Thats the dogs danglers.....you took Renegadecows excellent design a step further. WE-tech should be paying for this. BLOWS AWAY their shallow minded design. OTTO

Renegade, What I suggested the last time (when I originally broke one) is to do the following,... Just use a small round hobby file and turn the sharp corner into a round one. (or drill it, whichever). Cracking would stop. I dont even bother doing this anymore, however. I have a bag of these covers as spares. they are so afordable that it isnt worth modding. Thats just me however. As I wrote before, we do this on drum cymbals to stop cracking - a round hole stops a crack. Or prevent one in this case.

THANK YOU for your posts - and to Renegadecow, the same thank you. HSOJGNILRAD? A little confused how mag movement is affecting your shot to shot consistency. Pics would be great. I dont seem to have this movement. But my consistency is the worst of any gun I have owned. Any others with "gen 3" guns - or others who have exchanged their barrels and hops for 'gen 3' stuff - PLEASE POST YOUR EXPERIENCE. We would all appreciate it - HSOJGNILRAD keep us updated on what you find.

Thanks for the reply. You say you havent used the old hop - thats good for you! Its HORRIFYING. Easily in the top 10 "worst hop ups" ever. Every shot is north south east or west - and NEVER straight or level.

Thats good to hear. You are the only person praising the new design. Do you ever get shots that pull to the right or left? Im asking, How is your "shot to shot" consistency? And what weight bb are you using?

Prodigy is right. That was the solution. Buy more! William at Airsoft Buddy originally told me, "You have to buy the whole trigger unit to get this part". And at the time, trigger units were $100.00 (!!!) So,.....I set out to making one. Lots of members helped out with suggestions on how to make one - and suggested different materials, not just steel. I started making one out of carbon fiber. But then, William gave in, and started stocking the covers separately. So I bought a half dozen. They are inexpensive. THE FIX was to drill tiny holes in the upper inner

Or more likely, he simply lost the tiny metal bb when swapping barrels. No ball bearing, no pressure on the hop rubber - no affect on the bb like he wrote (no matter where it is adjusted.) Also, no pressure on the hop rubber, nothing to hold the BB. Rolls out. #117 does less than people realize. It is the hop that ultimately stops the BB from rolling out.