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Does anyone know if the stock pipe is mil-spec or airsoft spec? I know this information is somewhere in the 218 pages of this topic, but I can't seem to find it

I guess it depends on your luck. Anyway, this morning I encountered my first real problem with my WE M4. The original mag that came with the gun started to lose gas like hell. From the initial investigation it seems that the valve that gets hit by the hammer is to blame. I always keep some gas in the mags, so this is not the reason why it gave up (just in case someone is wandering).

This gun broke 2 of my aimpoints. First was made by King Arms, the other by G&P. Because of this I am considering buying a real steel version for use with all my airsoft guns. I know it is more expensive, but I buy it once and should work for life with airsoft guns and proper care.

The ris is a Noveske 10" free float that comes with it's specific barrel nut and 6 screws. The gas block is a low profile gas block for free float ris and the gas tube is the original one that was mounted on the gun. Please note that the Noveske barrel nut doesn't quite fit the body and you have to work it in. If you take your time and follow the guide everything will be fine. I have in plan the following: Micro T-1 Aimpoint, DYTAC Dummy AN/PEQ -15, Magpul CRT and a Magpul MIAD full grip. Problem is I need to get more money

Well, it has the same tread as the flash hinder, so I was trying to take it off the right way. Who knows, maybe it got lose after a full day skirmish. Anyway, I am happy that it did.

I finally managed to take apart the front part of the external barrel. Funny thing is that I just wanted to take off the flash hinder and the whole front section started to come off. I also managed to install the short inner barrel which went in really easy. Now my GBB replica looks much much better

I had the same problem until I disassembled the upper. Now the adjusting piece rotates nicely. Still, this will not resolve the hop-up problem.

This is how most of the bbs are looking after being shot out of my WE M4. What can cause such thing?

It fits, but with some modifications to that top claw that sits on the gas tube. Also it not really a tight fit.

I second what rottenotto is saying. Thisi is how I installed my noveske ris. With pacience and a lot of screwing, unscrewing and cleaning the treads with a tooth brush, you can mount your barrel nut.

From what I know and seen on this forum, it is a CW tread. so it should come off while turning CCW. Right now it looks like this but with a cqb barrel will look much nicer.

I can confirm that Madbull Noveske RIS fits on the gun, but the tread on the barrel nut is a tight fit. Unfortunately I am still unable to separate the 2 segments of the outer barrel. It's like they used the tread lock from hell.

I don't think that we'll ever get tight grouping with a gbb rifle. On semi, my WE M4A1 is quite accurate when using 0.28s. Still, it is not even close to what my KA Troy A3 CQB was able to do in terms of accuracy. Because the gun uses gas for propulsion, it will never have the inner barrel as clean as an AEG will. I finally got the Madbull Noveske RIS. Hopefully I will have some time tonight to mount it on the gun.

Anyone tried to mount a Noveske free float hanguard rail? Should I expect problems with the thread of the barrel nut?