wdahm519

You need the real ones, cause the PTS fit AEG's with motors in the grip.

No, I'm not. Only the stock is PTS. Check my posts about 2 - 3 pages back, I posted about using my rifle in the cold. But for a recap - they work pretty well still, but I think cold + propane caused my cup seal to rip instantly.

Parts are from back to front: Magpul MOE Stock Magpul MIAD Full Kit Pistol Grip PRI Big Latch Combat Tac Latch Magpul MBUS Rear Flip Up Norgon Ambi Mag Catch RealSteel EOTech 511.A65/1 G&P 7" KAC Style Rail System Milspex Tangodown QD VFG Dytac PEQ15 G&P R500S Tac Light (460 lumens baby.. they claim 500 but its a bit less) G&P Pressure Switch Daniel Defense Offset Flashlight Mount (PAK Version) Samson/Stag Arms Ladder Covers Magpul Magpuls (*on mags, not shown) I have to add one more picture because this new series of pictures I took are way bett

A little update

In theory it should be greater because more of the force of the expanding gas is being directed towards pushing the bolt backwards.

Were those problems persistent when they had the "cuts" on them to fit correctly? I forgot if you can even attach the AEG outer barrels without making the cuts.. which is why I ask.

You do realize that fps difference in longer, tighter barrels differs in enourmous amounts between gas and AEG's. In AEG's you may get about 15 fps increase from 5" of barrel, where in gas you may get 50fps. Stock this rifle shoots 450-470, are you sure you want to be upping that?

QTF.

Where'd you hear that from? I'd like to check out what they're supposed to launch. I feel like going into debt this month

Noice!! Donut, I think t_hum is waiting for the fps adjusters from a company to be shipped to him.

Good! I was going to buy the Troy one. Thanks for confirming the fit!

Thanks nylock. The G&P rails had to be dremeled to fit. The little fork that holds the gas tube in place was getting in the way, as it was hitting the "teeth" of the barrel nut. I had to dremel them shorter. That and a few taps of a hammer and they fit right now. They're solid as ever.

Alright guys, time for some pics of my gun. I still need to put on the black TD grip instead of the FDE one... but that really doesn't matter for pics. I'm also throwing an R500S on for the CQB season. Externals include: - G&P 7" KAC Rails - Dytac PEQ15 - Milspex TD Stubby foregrip (with trades ) - Norgon Ambi Mag Release - Magpul MBUS Rear Flip Up - Magpul MIAD Full Kit with Trigger Guard - PRI Big Combat Latch - Magpul MOE "PTS" Stock - EOTech 511 The MOE PTS stock fits pretty well. There is a slight bit of wobble, but WAY WAY less than

Now that is something I would agree with!

I would not agree that a bulletproof WA is $1k. I know a handful of people that have all dumped over $1k into their WA's and they still don't work continuously. I wouldn't consider the KJW M4 is a GBBR for a man with a budget either. I'm put a few hundred in externals on my rifle already, and there's still the t_hum's upgrade parts to purchase.

I'll let people know how the "PTS" MOE CTR Stock is soon. Since its PTS it should fit better.

My piston cup tore a bit with propane in the cold, but thats all. I was just expecting it to tear anyways. Pick up a t_hum piston upgrade and shoot propane all day, forever. This gun can handle it.

Tomorrow I want to wait to show it off until I get the MOE stock I bought.

Hey guys, You should know something about putting Magpul MIAD grips on the KJ M4. You're going to need to add a little bit of thick notecard, or a thin strip of metal between the grip, and the spring that holds in the ball bearing which holes the selector switch in place and makes it lock. On the standard grip there is a flat piece of plastic that holds the spring in to put tension on that locking mechanism. However, on a real steel rifle it is located in a slightly different position, so the Magpul MIAD doesn't hold the spring in by itself. EDIT: I bought the "full kit" which com

Partial yes, and partially because I didn't want them to work themselves out. But since they're on springs, nevermind. Thanks.

To get back on topic about the KJ M4: Does anyone know if the Anti Rotation Links made for a WA M4 Metal Body would fit the KJ? I'm not sure if the pins on the WA and the KJ are the same size.

I'm well aware of the different weights being equal to difference in rage due to drag (less for a heavy bb) or FPS (higher for a lighter bb), however if you're interested in knowing more about it I'd read this: http://www.bbbastard.com/ATP/index.htm It a very well documented, long "research" on bb flight path.

What's the point of comparing FPS for bb weight? Its still carrying the same effective energy no matter if you use a 0.12 or a 0.48.

I too was using AE 0.25's, with propane, and had the same affect as SacAirsoftSn00py.

I'm glad to hear 0.30's don't hook. I ran 0.25's when I took my KJ out and they were hooking consistently.