-
Content Count
372 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Blogs
Calendar
Posts posted by Hatchet
-
-
I adore short classic 5.56 HKs. The absolute minute someone releases a steel hk53, I'm snapping it up.
I really want the LCT G3, but I would rather a 5.56 model.
The LCT ones look good and it'll be interesting to see some of the reviews. I suspect if they branch out then MP5 is the next most likely candidate, but we can always hope for an HK53/33. It would at least get rid of one of the large worries which is the body snapping at the front tabs. At least with a G3 you can run a PDI internal reinforcement core.
That said, one of the nice things about my HK53 is how light it is, which makes a welcome change after running heavier guns for a while.
I also really like the look of a K, but I could see it being quite a challenge to make...
Not mine, found on http://imgur.com/gallery/oNIae
I've seen a few done in similar ways and I'm tempted. But perhaps I'll get some game time with the current one first...
- 10
-
7.62 is a lot easier. - See http://arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/194389-hk-picture-thread/?view=findpost&p=2695399
The large proportion of this build was spent getting the rear endplate to fit and then the stock attached to it. Really, it would have been a lot simpler just to pick up a CA33 rear stock and convert that. The downside of the relative rarity of these models (33/53) is the lack of spare or option parts, let alone cheap second hand spares. Such oddly designed guns (different receivers for the 33 and 53, different handguard mounting to every other MP5 out there, M4 style hop but MP5 lower, but G3 rear end rather than MP5...)
-
So, finally got this project finished. Far more work than I might have hoped for but I have learnt some things for next time(!).
- 19
-
Anybody knows the screw size for the retractable stock bar for the buffer tube?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Think they're M2x4mm with a countersunk head.
-
I used them around mid December. No problems at all, free downgrade to 328fps (chrono certificate included in box), free shipping was very fast given the time of year (maybe a week?). Also had a technical query that was answered promptly. I provided UKARA number and it's probably a good idea. Can't hurt at any rate.
No import charges due to EU.
-
Just checking back in. How did the E&L AK install go? I had an attempt at doing mine but although the nozzle alignment looked better I still wasn't getting the results. Did you go with the default hop rubber/chamber? Any sequence to refitting gearbox (as there is with the M4's)?
-
Here is the video of first "base" test. Will try different things and upload videos as I do. Note: this test platform is my personal Polarstar Fusion Engine. But since exactly the same problems were on the SMP platform then I believe they are caused by the same problem. I have previously tried many mane barrel-chamber-rubber combos. Some have been slightly better, others worse. But all of them had some kind on "problem" similar to seen in the video below.
Yes, this is the kind of thing I'm seeing too. Sadly also with the E&L AK I tried putting it in. I've dropped AEG internals back in it and it's shooting straight and true again.
I think I may have to wait for someone to do a system that utilises the existing aeg nozzles or similar. Or complete gearbox/barrel systems that attached to each other somehow.
-
Into an old Classic Army body using a TM gearbox (and as noted, various hops, barrels, etc.) It was a *bit* of a build from spares job, so I can understand that.
I know installs can vary, but I wonder if it's possible to compile a list of guns/manufacturers that are just drop ins. Might save some pain for those of us without the skills/gunsmiths to hand.
-
Hey Rich.
Many thanks for taking the time to comment on this. I know if I were that side of the pond I'd probably have got someone else to do the install as there seems to be a fair few shops offering that. "Normal" gearbox/wiring work I can handle, but when it comes to shimming, filing, or being able to tell differences in mm's then I'm outside of my abilities. My technical ability falls somewhere in the "can build lego with instructions" range.
I've found the videos you've done very useful (flashlight checking alignment, initial setup), and it's clear you've put a lot of work into this product. Sadly, with the gun I was using I just couldn't make any progress. However, in the hopes that I've just been unlucky I've picked up an E&L AK74 and am hoping I'll have more success this time. Actually, I note from one of your FB posts you've got that same - how was the install?
I know these things *can* shoot like lasers, so here's hoping...
-
So I figured I'd start a thread on this seeing as at least 8 other people in the UK must have them (based on The Grange's sales).
Overview
In case you've not been following, the Wolverine SMP (Single Moving Part) is a high pressure air based system designed to drop in to existing gearboxes. The nearest similar product is the Polarstar, but that requires you to buy a complete gearbox shell, which will either be for a V2, V3 or (I think) M249. One of the main selling points of the Wolverine is that you can drop it into any gearbox that takes a standard sized cylinder and you're good to go - assuming they make the appropriate length nozzle for it (currently there are 12 different ones).
There's an install video here (not mine) that gives you an idea of the actual install process. Essentially it's "remove all the gears, etc, leave the trigger in, install trigger board and SMP unit".
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j9P3EVpNrw8
The install process isn't entirely straightforward as I had to do a little selector plate shaving in order to get both fire modes and still have the physical safety work but other than that it's easy to install and very easy to change RoF and dwell (to manage air efficiency for the most part). ROF can be varied between chugging away slowly or absolutely insane (like, 60rps territory). FPS is set by dialling in the PSI between 40 and 120 on your air rig's regulator and by the length of the barrel you're running. Long barrels at a high PSI will easily hit UK sniper limits. Happily you can also set the fire mode to DMR which is semi with approx 2 second pause between shots. Alternatively you can set either full auto or burst between about 2 and 10 rounds.
Issues
Because with me it's never plain sailing...
The issue I'm having, and have seen others report are something along the lines of "The main problem is that while most of the BBs fly alright but every once in a while there's a significant drop in trajectory, as well as some BBs just go left/right for some reason."
Sadly I had to resubscribe to Facebook (argh, spit, etc) so I could join the SMP owners group. There is info in there, but there's also a lot of people saying "It's your hop/alignment, this system is awesome". So I'm inclined to think that for some people this is just a drop in, it all lines up and works perfectly, and for others... well, not so much.
For my part I have tried 4 different hop ups (including lonex and prowin), hop rubbers and barrels as well as 2 different gearbox shells (TM and lonex) and I'm still seeing the same sort of inaccuracies and random shots. I've even dropped it into a different gun entirely, which seemed marginally improved but not perfect. The happy SMP owners say that it can't be a problem with the SMP because all it does is push out air and that's it. But there seem to be an equal number saying "but this setup worked fine in my old AEG/Polarstar and the only thing that's changed is the engine".
Perhaps like many things the truth is somewhere in the middle, but it's hard to make an argument that this a simple drop in replacement when faced with issues like this. Which is a shame, as clearly there are people having great fun with them, some are shooting straight as lasers and they are both easily adjustable and quiet as a mouse's fart when suppressed. Sadly I'm not one of them. So I shall try to work out what to troubleshoot next. Ideally without having to buy a whole new shell/donor AEG...
Any other Wolverine users out there? What are your experiences?
-
G3K-A4 with wooden furniture. Front end from a CA33, wood cut to size and refinished, entirely possible to club someone to death with it. Having spent a load of time and money (internally BTC mosfet, lonex gearbox, PDI core reinforcement etc), I now want to do something different. Always the way.
- 4
-
No - not unless you buy a NexGen gun that was sold with an ambidextrous selector originally. Those are (AFAIK) the SCARs, the HK416s, and maybe the G36s too? Guns that didn't come with an ambidextrous selector assembly (the non-HK416 AR-15s, the Kalashnikovs) cannot be retrofitted with one.
What's the limitation? Is it the gearbox or just the receiver? Otherwise you could presumably pick up a 416 lower and do it that way.
-
If you've fitted a tightbore barrel, you could replace it with the stock 6.08. That'd probably drop it down 10-15fps. Or as you say, clip the spring. Probably start with quarter of a coil and go from there. You can always take more off, but you can't put any back... Barrel easier, spring cheaper - take your pick.
-
One from a couple of months ago.
-
I don't think you need to worry. I mean, new spring won't be putting that much extra strain on. No need for high torque gears - the spring doesn't require them and you don't need them for the response because you'll have the Spectre. Piston/piston head would depend on how efficiently you take the existing spring out, since it's kind of a one piece with the piston. I ripped mine out from the back so it wasn't strictly necessary but you may find it easier just to get new ones and not bother with any of that.
-
Personally, if you're opening the box up to install the Spectre, then I'd drop some hornbill gears in there (or Prometheus, if you're feeling rich) to pre-empt the stock ones breaking and possibly an E6 M100 spring or similar. Nothing else *needs* doing. Original barrel/hop are good as is.
-
I wanted one, for months, but the budget says no. So it's probably as well they've gone and taken the temptation with them.
Weirdly, having spent a fortune on getting the gun "just so", I'm now kind of bored and fancy doing something else. I'm going to regret it if I sell it aren't I?
-
It required a custom buffer tube constructing. Shaving down the outside of an existing one, and building a stop ring around it. Go back a page and you can see it. I should point out that bit was done by someone who had access to the right tools and the talent to use them, of which I have neither. Then it was a case of feeding the wires directly from the gearbox to the rear and then soldering.
Another upside is it becomes a much quicker quick change spring. Remove stock, unscrew buffer tube, change spring and reassemble. No fiddling with wires or castle nuts.
-
Pretty much done with this (other than needing an inner barrel and wanting a BTC next gen mosfet). Sure, I'd *like* to convert it into a MK12 MOD 0, but that would be at least a couple of hundred quid and would make it less practical to use. Now directly wired and running at 350fps. Rate of fire is greatly improved and trigger spamming without worry of lockups. All it needs now is a field test to prove it.
-
Any RS or GBBr one with a little bit of dremelling/filing to widen the hole. I've got a fairly basic airsoft one with a QD hole right in the middle attaches to my 12.5" SOCOM, small amount of metal work and it's rock solid on there, pretty happy with it considering there's no OOTB product for the TM EBBr line that does the same thing.
Edit - That's assuming you mean one that attaches to the rear of the lower.
When you say no OOTB for the TM EBBr line...
Or did you mean a different type to that one?
Marui's one is very good, although it does mean you can't fully collapse the stock.
-
-
Speaking of front ends... Dytac don't seem to be as readily available any more (specifically the 18" SPR front) - any recommendations for sources/other manufacturers?
-
It'd be rude not to. Although the PRI front end is something crazy like £180...
-
CNC end cap turned up in a couple of days from Echigoya. Good service. Got a fixed stock on the way. We shall see how well it all goes together.
Now all I need is the NG-spectre on general release. And possibly an entire SPR front end. and... well, you know how it goes...
- 1
Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG
in Rifles (AEG)
Posted
There are a few more things I could do to this (like removing the last of the paint from the charging handle, swapping the pistol grip, some slightly higher scope mounts and actually installing the front sight), but it's pretty much done.