Hatchet
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Posts posted by Hatchet
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Did 4000 rounds of Excel at the weekend without any issues, so I guess that answers that. The only question now is how I managed that with just lo-caps...
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Try using silicon spray on the outside of the hop rubber?
For my part I've just wasted an hour stripping, cleaning, restripping 30/82 round mags. Getting the classic "sticking". Only started at the weekend when I bought a bag of Aim top .25s. Just put some madbull .36 in the loader and everything fed perfectly. Looks like it's Excel or bust.
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I've been using a set for a year or two. Very comfortable, low profile and can be worn under hats and helmets due to the very thin strap width. Like the bolle's, no optical distortion, which is a must for me. Feel like wearing a fishbowl with normal shooting glasses/paintball goggles.
As with most goggles, I had to rip all the foam out to prevent fogging, but once done they're usually very clear. Also easy to swap lenses or clean.
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SPR Mk12 mod 1.
Not my image.
Needs about an 18 inch barrel though, 12 inch rail. All available for standard rifles, but...
Anyway, fitted Eagle6 M90 today (310fps on my stock CQBR). What a pain in the neck. Particularly the hard locking ring I decided to fit at the same time. Firstly I had to put on and remove the ring on the stockpipe several times to get it to take. It's not cross threaded, but it did grind away a fair bit of metal until it became an easy fit. The next problem I encountered was that they're tighter than the standard ring, so I couldn't actually get the wires back on. I had to file down the wire groove ramp in order to get it all back on.
I also metal fatigued and pulled the spring out the back of the gearbox rather than taking the whole thing apart. All seems to be working okay though. As expected it's even louder than it was before. I was sorely tempted to put the M100 in, but 330 (lowest) would give me no margin for error on a 328 site. A slightly high reading chrono or a tight bore barrel added later and I'd be out of luck. Guess I'll need a second rifle at some point.
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Anyone know if there are any aftermarket outer barrel options beside the 10.3/10.5 pdi ones? I'd quite like to try making something else...
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Is the recce definitely "not being sold over here" or is it just insufficient units for the home market making it unlikely to turn up here? I'm sure you could get one from one of the HK retailers if you were so inclined.
I did wonder if PDI might do a longer barrel, but they seem to just have the 10.3/10.5's so it looks like M4 + silencer is the current option. Either that or waiting, since it seems inevitable that the rest of the AR15 range will be released as recoil too, given that it's just the barrel and rear stock that would need designing.
Only thing with a DMR scar would be I'd want to use a SCAR heavy instead.
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Cheers for that Rich. I understand the principle and you couldn't make a clearer video, just seems reluctant to go.
Aha! Done it!
As said by the guy in the comments, with the CQBR stock, you actually want to pull up on the bit you would normally push down on (the rear part of the lever). Finally!
I think I shall leave taking the gaerbox/stock ring, etc apart until *after* today's skirmish though.
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Well, I've failed to even get the stock off on my CQBR today. The schematics look the same as the sopmod stock, but try as I might I'm having no luck. Have watched the video "just pull this pin out and slide it off". I've been swinging off it with pliers and that pin is *not* coming down any further, but still the stock stops at position 6.
Amusingly it will probably be irrelevant anyway, since that hardened stock piece doesn't actually seem to feature in the CQBR anyway. Although I still have a spring/locking ring to swap.
Any suggestions? Anything involving masses of force with pliers/hammers etc usually ends badly for me.
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Its nothing special, but I finally put a set of PLCE together. Its all issued stuff, looks very new indeed, but at £35 I couldn't say no. Only thing I swapped out was the belt, which was too small for me and used a BHI riggers belt instead.
Are you running the plastic tabs on the pouches through anything, or just relying on having a full belt to stop things moving about?
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@Hatchet:
Isamu is correct, they haven't really changed the 'system' of the HU take down.
It needs a bit of force since the stock TM innerbarrel and the HU rubber sit very very tight inside the HU unit.
You're not wrong! Spare hop unit turned up today already in bits, so I can see how it comes apart/goes together. Stuck a normal systema hop and an AK length barrel in it and it is tight as... well, a very tight thing indeed. Think it's going to need silicon spray to get it in there properly.
Edited to add - In a shocking outbreak of common sense, I loosely chucked it together beforehand and discovered the barrel is too long *before* I spent 30 mins wrestling with a hop. Madness I tell you!
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Alternatively Surefire sell 2 different tape switches for the X series of lights - however like most Surefire accessories they're not cheap. You'd end up better off picking up a G2X tactical for $55 and using the X200 on a pistol.
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The x200/x300 share the same dimensions and the Safariland holsters shouldn't be that hard to get hold of if you're in the US. I picked one up for a 4.3 hi-capa from Optics Planet. Readers not in the US may struggle to pick up holsters, since anything involving weaponlights seems to be a no-go for export.
Are you certain there's no momentary on? On the x300 it's a push forward for momentary (for example with the thumb of the support hand), or rotate the switch for permanent. I believe the x200 was the same (based on reviews I've read).
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Looking very good. This kind of thing has got to be on the cards for TM at some point - if someone else doesn't beat them to it...
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I guess these means FDE magazines will be readily available for those that want to use them on the other TM AR15 based recoil guns.
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I'd definitely be after one of those hop units if anyone UK is planning on getting them in.
Eagle 6 battery turned up today. Outstanding! The gun is transformed. The old adage of "you get what you pay for" certainly holds true. Can't wait to try it on Sunday!
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More recoil news. There's a "LE custom" on Marui's page. Basically looks like the CQBR only with a flip down front sight and 16" barrel (at a guess). Nice looking desert camo L96 up there too, but I digress.
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Thanks for the confirmation. I decided to leave it for the time being - I need to get over the compulsion to upgrade everything before using it stock for a while. That and the fact that I can't afford any repairs if something goes wrong!
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Anyone have a link/picture of the hop unit take down? I'm planning on swapping out to a old tight bore barrel I have lying about. I've got the unit out, removed the front c clip and the strike arm but am a bit stumped. Normally I'd expect the barrel to pull out from the front, but there doesn't seem to be any sign of it budging and I'm reluctant to give it any force given the difficulty in sourcing spares.
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The inner barrel is presumably shorter due to the changeable length of the outer barrel. Still, it won't be massively shorter. The CQBR is 275mm and the recce is a couple of inches longer than that even in short mode.
Ideal barrel length is a bit of a matter of opinion (read - can of worms). Recce is - I believe - 315mm. That's longer than the VSR GSPEC barrel at 303mm, and people still use that without too much difficulty. That said, if you were prepared to give up the flexibilty of the shorter outer barrel you could probably get up to 410mm (at a guess).
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Went training today. It was very cold out and the stock battery gave up the ghost particularly quickly. A different battery is no longer a "nice to have" but a necessity I think. Also, after much buggering about I have put the CQBR back to stock configuration with the front ris, etc. Much more solid now - lesson, don't meddle.
Dissapointingly, I also discovered that the space in the emod stock doesn't hold CR 123's, it holds a pair of AA's. Much less useful to me.
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Parts always cost more than the gun - annoying but true. I remember a bike mag that built a Kawasaki or similar from parts and a 6 grand bike worked out something like 23 grand if bought as parts!
I'm in a similar situation after a front change Rich. I'm more in mind to see if someone has a non-rised Socom front to swap.
I think the problem you have with buying guns to split is that some parts will be more popular than others - say hop units. So you'd end up with a lot of gun carcass that people never bought.
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Anakchan, thanks for the links. I thought I had read the whole thread, but there's a lot in it. I haven't yet noticed needing shims on the outer barrel hex nuts, I will have to check to see if all is parallel later. Mine were just for the inner barrel. I had seen your front end lipo job previously, been impressed and thought about it, but decided to stick with the rear marui battery for ease of change, more weight in the rear and so on.
Not sure I'd want to hold the weight of my gun on the one mag catch like that! Good looking setup though.
Bastel - not seen any so far, I'd be interested in getting one as well to make complete barrel swaps easier.
All this and I still haven't had a chance to use mine yet! Hopefully at the weekend.
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Had a play fitting the Madbull DD 9 inch rail. As usual, I learnt some valuable things about doing so (read, screwed it up again). I'm sure this will be obvious for a lot of people, but I'm not a lot of people.
Firstly, the PDI 10.3 outer barrel is pretty tight where the barrel base fits on. A bit of filing was necessary to allow fit. The actual reinforced barrel base was fine (since I tested that on the standard barrel).
Secondly, barrel shims are needed, and getting the number used right is important. If you don't use enough, the rail system is rock solid, but the barrel has excess movement, if you use too many the reverse is true. I think I used 3 or 4 out of the 10 supplied and got a rock solid rail and an almost perfect outer barrel. There's a fraction of play when you try and wobble it, but not much.
Thirdly, pay attention to the position of the hex screws above. The top and middle should go in from the rear and the bottom from the front. It's possible to try and put the top pair in from the front, which leads you to gouging a chunk out of the RIS as you try and screw them down. Don't ask how I know this...
Finally, tools. I actually over-tooled on this one. A stock wrench is all that's needed. I had also got the delta ring removal tool (the one with the prongs that goes onto the spiky cog - technical eh?), but it's not needed. Usual allen keys, cross head screwdriver also required.
All I need now is a battery to actually fire the thing...
More hilarity will undoubtedly ensue as I do more work on it.
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CQB-R turned up today, guess I'm in the club.
Much prefer the EMOD stock on it - space for a couple of CR123's, mount point for QD stud and the entire battery assembly is covered by the rear buttplate, rather than being part buttplate, part battery like the sodmod. Just trying to determine if there's a way to use existing lipo battery (which just fits) without having to do a rewire. I'm a little reluctant to start messing about soldering on a brand new gun...
Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG
in Rifles (AEG)
Posted
Burn the heretic! Anyway, I was only using 10 mags. Which.. uh... means 5 full reloads, roughly? My thumbs are going to be massive from all that speedloader action. Still, if you're holding a defensive position, you do go through a lot. Awesome fun anyway.
And to keep it on topic, there was someone with a recce there too. Looked better in person actually.