CZFan
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Posts posted by CZFan
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Always wanted to see those mag plates in use. So glad I didn't buy em. they look so nice not on a gun..
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The gearbox may be enclosed and unique to fit the body shape, but the internals are made of wet noodles. so plan on dumping at least 100$ in internals in your 400$ gun (or 450 if you bought it early on). (unless you live in communist england and cant have anything over 50fps. then they hold up well). by the time you are done, you really are pushing PTW territory.
early evos had the cheaper ascu unit too which gave problems. that was changed since. i think the difference is in how well the circuits are sealed. you have to open the gun to look to tell which one you have. maybe somebody will know what teh cut off date is on old vs new (then again old stock can never be accounted for)
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airsoft systems is local btw. but I wish they would stop using these terrible cheap as *fruitcage* nasty Chinese wires to save a cent
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GRIM!, on 12 Jul 2017 - 4:59 PM, said:
Throwing in these pics here since most of them are AKs.
- RPK, GHK base with 70% real Russian Molot parts from 1973.- Type 56, Real Sword (still stock, awaiting parts).- AIMS, GHK with 70% real Romanian BFPU parts.- M16A1, Black talon upper, Viper tech BCG and barrel. The rest is real Colt parts (full auto lower)- UZI, KWC mini uzi internal parts, steel upper full size receiver and 70% real IMI parts.- VZ61, KWA with real stock, grip and grip screw. Custom worn paint job.post these on any major gun forum. don't tell them its airsoft. *nobody* would ever tell. 10/10 collection. a pleasure to look at
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Whew awesome info. I've sent a request to modify the order to just 1 for testing purposes. The only reason I got excited was because it doesn't have the pinkie cut out at the bottom (my personal bane with most glocks)
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NonEx, on 09 Jul 2017 - 9:54 PM, said:NonEx, on 09 Jul 2017 - 9:54 PM, said:
I mean RS _RS_ not Guarder "RS".
I've had TM plates, WE plates, KJW plates, SA/VFC plates, Shooters Design plates, Guarder plates and RS plates.
The RS plate profile of the bottom of the magazine is (can't recall if smaller or wider) only compatible with SA/VFC/Guarder Custom Glock 19 magazines.
I think I still have most of that laying around I could double check I guess.
Don't bother I just did. They are identical and "fit" except that the lip on the real one is a little wider.. essentially they cannot be secured in a non permanent way.
22.6 vs 24.6 mm lip width and stark is 24.4x mm
so close really never thought it wouldn't fit.. this is the most annoying thing ever. everything else is perfect, the guarder round follower latches just fine too. sigh
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NonEx, on 30 Jun 2017 - 5:34 PM, said:NonEx, on 30 Jun 2017 - 5:34 PM, said:
FYI: TM/WE do not accept RS plates, Only SA/VFC does.
As above TM/WE/KJW should be same spec AFAIK.
the issue is the square bottom follower.. the guarder RS like plates come with that part so you can mount it onto WE/TM
anybody got any exp with the guns modify gen3 frames? I have some on order as I noticed they don't have the pinkie cut out but I wonder if I should order more while im binging at WGC... any posts in here with those?
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We need a P10c.. sadly as I've said in the past, the fake trademarks on ASG products really hurts them.... rather they stop putting them altogether so people can burn the right ones. Its worse that even KJ doesn't have the master blanks so even their versions are stamped. They need to up their game given what umarex and cybergun via VFC are putting out now.
Anyway, 2017 update on this thing (from that massive thread a long time ago). SS captive guiderod fitted. ... literally from a company called http://ssguiderods.com/ Im using their stuff in a few things now. No more jumping spring and having to chase it around the floor.
as you probably don't recall, the one from CGW was a no go. it wasn't captive and it was way smaller in diameter (wtf?)
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k.a, on 28 Jun 2017 - 05:30 AM, said:CZFan, on 27 Jun 2017 - 3:26 PM, said:
My order of gen2 frames arrived. I made this parts bin build. Total cost 25$.... there is the issue of the slide not going the 1mm forward but that's likely due to the barrel. it will either wear out over time and sit in place or i'll change that. don't care, just a test build.
The hammer housing pin is way loose. had to epoxy it in (still drying). not sure what's up with that. both UAC and marui/we pins just drop out of there. Looks like guarder messed up and made the hole way bigger than gen3.
Loving it, I've yet to install my two, did you reinforced the front post as it the same as their gen three frames with no material around it ? I plan to fill the hole with Miliput.
yes same design. from my builds, and im not really a man of 1000 glocks like some others, so my experience isn't vast, only steel builds need that area reinforced with plastic welder (4000psi+ variety). but then such heavy things running on propylene (because propane is for posers) tend to cause other issues, like the pins sliding out of the frame due to all the force
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NonEx, on 27 Jun 2017 - 3:57 PM, said:NonEx, on 27 Jun 2017 - 3:57 PM, said:
I recall discussion the barrel offset in either this thread or somewhere else and it's due to the locking edge of the outer barrel (*fruitcage* knows how to describe it) stopping against the slide lock.
Found the pics. My situation was the opposite. Slide sitting too far forward, and I made a proof of concept fix (fugly as sheit) by moving the hop up housing locking notch and spacing it but I think for you filing on the outer barrel locking edge should be enough.
Or, if it is a Stark Arms Glock 17 it was due to the magazine feed lip beeing to "fat" at the rear so sanding the rear face of the feedling lip of the magazine down a bit allowed the slide to move forward (IIRC).
10/10 digest. its a hk3 barrel with guarder hop up housing. it was very hard to actually get it in the (outer) barrel in the first place.. the detent pin would not clear as it normally does.
i'll check the tolerances soon and grind as needed. does anyone know of a cheap barrel for these as the stock one with the we internal threading is triggering me anyway. cheapest I seen is 29$ for a guns modify fluted off wgc. but I want something cheaper. as I said, this is totally just a shelf build, so nothing expensive will ever go in it.Every time I say ill do something the next day, I just end up doing it right away. It was caused by the guarder hop up housing AND the barrel. Had to file it back so it can move forward (A2 area, both barrel AND hop housing). Trimmed 2mm+ in there. Like a glove now. Basically the area that pushes against the slide lock. Grind that down until centered. Scary how soft that alum is tho... hand mini file went in it like butter. ugh
as for the frame... I like it! more than gen3 in terms of how it fits my hand. too bad the horrible cut out where the pinkie sits is still there.....
And for some more details, the frame is a perfect fit in SERPA level 2 holsters. G20 holsters are actually too large for this one now. However, LEVEL3 G17/22etc serpas still are no go.-
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My order of gen2 frames arrived. I made this parts bin build. Total cost 25$.... there is the issue of the slide not going the 1mm forward but that's likely due to the barrel. it will either wear out over time and sit in place or i'll change that. don't care, just a test build.
The hammer housing pin is way loose. had to epoxy it in (still drying). not sure what's up with that. both UAC and marui/we pins just drop out of there. Looks like guarder messed up and made the hole way bigger than gen3.
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hk3p lower (because more trademarks), WE upper (because had a spare upper slide) with phoenix steel kit. eventually I want to get the entire fire group in steel but I hardly ever use the gun..... well more like I never use it.
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Im pointing things out in case somebody years down the road looking for collectables presumes they fixed *anything* over the KJ oem to make it prototypical as one should expect at that price (come on, its basically RWA GRP 1911 category)
Show me where I critiqued him for buying it? Show me where I said it is a bad product? Show me where I said he or you or whoever shouldn't buy it.
I will however point out every flaw I can see on a 900$ kit. If you don't like that, that's unfortunate, for you. It needs to be said because at this level, the expectations are higher. The issue tbh isn't with the buyers, but its with the people who defend sloppy work. If they (certain manufacturers) are told to actually innovate rather than copy, maybe they can at some point in the future release something along the lines of detonator, who actually know what they are doing (but sadly do not work with steel). But as long as their ever creeping up prices for oem copying of parts is defended, that will never happen.
So instead of coming here and attacking me, feel free to send them some mail like I did asking them to do the 75B design or something relevant. For 15 years now airsoft has seen the same faulty 75 model being regurgitated over and over. 10 versions, none truly accurate. Probably longer actually, if you count MGC days..
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I knew somebody would buy that. Did you get it from AST or redwolf? it was/is like 100$ cheaper on RW... still in stock last I looked.
There is no way I can give them that much money given they just copied the preB kj design. We don't even get updated sight cuts. fail. trademarks are also unhistorical (preB had stamped, not laser/cnc etched. prime did the same travesty with their kits and now RAT follows. the only company to ever get them right was KSC with the Taiwan metal release in early 2000s)
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I just swapped my known good UAC/GM all metal BBU unit and guess what.. it works. 18 rapid shots to lockdown failure and about 30 to a cartridge. As suspected, its the silverback airsoft that's the culprit. It even made the other gun not work properly. what a waste of 44$. Its not good even for spares..
At least I know what to order and build another one now..
Don't get burned.. avoid silverback products.. at least their glock stuff. total garbage
btw, I want your zev mag release.. they are out of stock everywhere
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Newest build. Not final.. things will change, as I have some stuff on order still. I wanted to go heavy and real with this one.. no fancy *suitcase*.. just a big heavy *albatross* glock. Well... Somewhat accomplished that. More on that below. this is a scratch built gun. no donor gun used. pieced together from parts you can buy around
Parts list:
guarder steel front rail
guarder steel rear chassis/hammer assembly
shooters design 150% hammer spring
shooters design 150% trigger spring
UAC matchgrade trigger bar
guarder steel g34 slide and barrel set, steel guide rod, blowback housing
crusader steel rear sight
stock front sight
gm extended slide catch
gm extended slide lock lever (lonewolf type)
guarder steel mag release
guarder stainless g34 inner barrel
UAC hopup housing
maple leaf ikey
maple leaf hop wheel
maple leaf 70 bucking
hk3p trigger
silverback airsoft nozzle set
UAC stainless pins
dawson precision steel magwell long insert, ICE mount system
GK/stark CO2 mags. I'll try the WE ones but they are so expensive in comparison. Never liked the GK CO2 mags tbh..
unknown cnc alum piston head and seal I had around. I keep a stack of these and trial for every build.
guarder frame, eu version
required box pic for noex
real world weight. no Co2 cartridge or bbs (hey it adds up)
Now, I wanted to run the guarder heavy BBU but had to swap for the lightweight. I am also not happy with the nozzle. the silverback piston head blew the seal with every shot so it was useless. I have my all alum UAC/GM BBU to test with but had no time right now. Basically, long road ahead still.
Had to modify some parts to get them to work.. the GM slide catch was not always engaging the magazine follower so that took some creative bending (man that thing is strong though). Wanted to run stiffer recoil spring but had to drop to the one guarder provided with the kit. Wouldn't cycle otherwise.
This is CO2 only gun. It doesn't work on gas at all... even on CO2 im getting only 7-8 rapid shots before it fails to slide lock. cooldown is brutal. In its first iteration, it wouldn't even move the slide. Then I played with parts and still only got 4 shots before it failed to lock. Now im up to 8. Then you have to let it warm. You can get 17-20 shots out of a single Co2 cartridge if you let it warm up every few shots. I suspect most of my issues are from the nozzle setup (internals too), which I will end up replacing. I just wanted to try the silverback since why not...
Anyway, gun feels amazing, smells amazing, looks amazing so im very happy. Just needs more parts thrown into it, and some cool sights. guarder steel kits are weird; they use RS rear and marui front (which you can fit RS in with some cutting, btw) so the options for sights are vast.
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Never liked the detonator barrels.. paper thin, clanking and very light. Their suppressor barrel is 14mm CW (wat) so I took that out a year+ ago. Anyway, bought the new RAtech extended barrel some time ago so lets test it on my mule many times rebuilt nozzle snapping p09
I love it. They fixed the channel around the locking pin that was out of spec with their standard length barrel (which I had to machine to fit). Highly recommend it. Fits perfect with the detonator slide that I have on this one. I might buy more for my others
fun note. no I cant put the suppressor sights. they are too tall and wont fit in any holster made for these. Even the 7mm extended sights I have rub. the suppressor ones are like 10mm. no go.
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yay pokira!
perfect example of a painted markings one. glad to see more zevs in the house
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Are the Stark Arms glocks compatible with TM mags (and vice versa)?
yes
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https://youtu.be/5FoUUPrXhBw?t=51s
Hmmmmm interesting, not sure if I can do this to a Guarder frame, while adding some metal rods into the holes
Absolutely. I've used ITW plastiweld and 3M (1838L if you want to go overboard) epoxies to literally build 3ft long load bearing arms for my RC projects (1/10 scale). I used scrape aluminum U and I beams for inner support and to fill up the space a bit. You can also use ball bearings or pellets from airguns for off places where you cant fit straight metal if you so wish. Just don't forget to really gauge the metal so that the epoxy can grip it hard. This is really advisable for plastic epoxies that use heat to adhere to plastic (which wont work on metal). So you create friction grooves and its rock reliable adhesion.
I highly recommend using power tools to sand it down to shape tho, like a belt sander. Sanding these 4000+ psi epoxies by hand is beyond nightmare. Then if you want baby smooth surface, use Tamiya putty to fill microholes and sand smooth with 600-800 grit.
Hope this helps.
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As I said I missed a few so i went box diving.. and produced this. KSC full metal original, pre system 7.
It actually works..
130% 1911 spring, 3 coils cut due to it jamming in the slide tunnel at full length. Otherwise bone stock
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There isn't around customs. Don't order anything you aren't willing to lose. That said, EMS gets hit the hardest. Just ship it registered
try wgc. I know they have stark slides...
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Its a good slide. Except for the sandy porous finish. Any oil anywhere will seep into it and travel about, so keeping it "clean" looking is impossible. I now tried rs grease on the rails in an effort to keep it less coated. My go to murder oil literally takes a round the slide trip within an hour.
Im told that this is an issue with certain prime coatings (this is prime oem)
also, it fits serpa level 2 holsters. doesn't fit level 3 (like all airsofts, including stark). slide (or frame) is too tall, not too wide so it hits and jams @ top). actually im pretty sure its the frame, since I measured the slides and they are identical to the real ones. so the frame is off spec and pushes the gun too far up. not sure if trimming the bottom of the trigger guard a bit will fix it. or it could hit on the rail section. either way, it will take butchering to get to RS spec
Glock Picture Thread
in Weapons
Posted · Edited by CZFan
no its not wider. the problem is not the slide! the problem is the frame. the rail area is like 2mm thicker (top to bottom, not side) over 17/22 spec! that's the part that makes it not fit. guarder, guns modify they all copied that wrong design (cause all they can do is copy, never create).
you are thus limited to large frames (any 10mm, 45) holsters (Blackhawk etc) OR bad tolerance 17 holsters (fab defense etc).
the above only applies to hard shells. since everybody and their dog makes kydex in their basement now, its on a per basis what fits what.
leather holsters for 17 fit airsoft just fine btw as that stretches enough.
no I don't have a pancake solution. just the various holsters for airsoft (black cat, guarder) which are all duty type or ispca. there WAS a Chinese knockoff of the serpa holster MANY years ago made to airsoft TM spec. airsoftmike (the dude on youtube who dresses like a ninja) made a review of it. but item is long gone from market due to awesome things such as patents and them using the Blackhawk name and label to send that worldwide