kalnaren
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Posts posted by kalnaren
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Has anyone mounted an arm code rail to this thing? I just got it and and the rail mounts are completely different.. do you actually have to drill int
o the body of the L85? If that's the case I'm just going to file the damned rail down.
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Must say, if you have problems with mags sitting too low in the mag-well, the smart thing to do is to adjust the gun, not the mags.
Get yourself a little blob of plasticine and stick it to the bottom of your hop-up feed tube then stick your mag in.
Take it out again and you should see that there's a mm or two of plasticine left squeezed against the bottom of the feed tube.
That tells you how much longer your feed tube needs to be.
Now cut the feed tube in half, leave the correct gap and then fill the space with JB Weld. Once it's dry you can run a dremel through the middle to clean up any infill.
If I was doing it I'd file a 45° bevel onto the cut edges so that the JB Weld has a bigger area to stick to.
Once you've extended the hop-up feed tube like this you know you've got a gun that can work with ANY mag you happen to get, rather than only working with specially modified mags.
Honestly, it was a lot easy for me to just put a couple of layers of electrical tape between the top of the mag body and top of the plastic insert. The hopup in my gun is metel, so I don't want to even attempt to modify it. Also, since this is the only gun I own that uses STANAG mags, modifying them was a decent choice. I did 5 mags in about an hour (including testing) and it seems to be working just fine.
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The systema barrel I had was a very tight fit. Make sure the barrel is aligning properly with the very end of the outer barrel. I ended up taking my tightbore out as it happened to be a cause of some of the misfeeding. The rest of the misfeding is caused because the magazines sit too low in the reciever. Not quite sure how to solve that one.
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Has anyone had problems with this gun misfeeding? I'm using KA 68-round mags, and the thing misfeeds like no tomorrow. It's very annoying.
I don't think the problem is the magazines. When I take the mag out the feed tube has BB's in it. No matter how I move the magazine, it only feeds one shot randomly. It more seems like the nozzel isn't retracting far enough to allow BB's into the hop-up.
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Great.. took it out for my first day of skirmishing with it, and semi auto stopped working (fires full auto when in semi)... very annoying. Anyone have any idea how to fix that problem?
Edit:
Nevermind. I found the problem. A stupid BB got lodged in the selector assembly, preventing it from moving. Stupid.
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I've just dug my R85 out of storage,it's been there since October last year when i moved house.I'd already charged the battery up in preparation so all i had to do was fit the battery & fill & wind the high cap mag.I've just finished emptying the highcap that comes with the gun down my back garden & it hits the back fence with a decent strike.Now counting the fence panels i put the length of the garden at about 84 feet long,i then opened my patio doors & fired from the back wall of my dining room giving it another 12 foot at that point.So that's a total of 96 foot with no problems,unfortunately i have no where that i can shoot it further unless i go gaming with it.Even so it's not a bad range or power from a cheap china copy gun.
This gun has had some bad press because the QC on it is awful but in all honesty i must have fallen on my feet with my gun as it's been well behaved so i'm still very pleased with it.
It's good to hear. Unfortunetly in Canada it still sucks that we have to pay $500 US for an ACM gun that may or may not work and require another $100-$200 in parts. Ah well, such is life. I'm hoping to get this gun out to it's first game next weekend.
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The only other magazines I've tried in this gun were King Arms 68 round mags. Most feed ok, one I had to add a couple of layers of tape to the front to get it to feed correctly.
As for battery, right now I'm running mine with a standard Elite 7 cell 1500mah mini battery (using a connector) -the same ones I use in my G36. It runs the gun just fine, 10 times better than the stock ones.
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Yours is a systema tightbore or they all have that? I didn't think it had a tightbore tbh...
But yes the shooting left is the misalignment of the inner barrel relative to the gun, not a problem with the inner barrel itself.
No, it doesn't come with a tightbore. I added a Systema tightbore and a G&P metal hop-up unit to the gun. My problem is barrel alignment. The gun is bang accurate -just with the sights very far to the right. Once I can actually get it out to a game I'll find out if it's really an issue or not. If the barrel is slightly misaligned but I can compansate for it with the sights, I don't really care all that much.
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If you want to know if the barrel is straight, take it apart and put it on a mirror or a glass and roll it.All the barrel surface must "touch" the mirror.If no, it is not very straight.
The barrel is a Systema tightbore, it's straight. It's just misaligned in the gun.
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Yea, mine shoots way to the left as well. Must be something in the way it's made. I want to run an 8.4v in mine just so I have enough power to more or less avoide the semi-auto locking issue. My FA-MAS had the same issue every once in a while so if it does it every now and then I'm not too worried about it. I primarily use semi-auto so ROF isn't a concern. IMO people who want crazy high ROF on anything but a support weapon are trying to compensate
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Im living at texas atm so finding lipos easily is a no go. Thanks for the advice, i'll see if I can good but affordable alternatives to the stock battery.
check out www.cheapbatterypacks.com. Good prices, well assembled batteries and good quality cells.
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The stock battery is pretty unreliable for me while skirmishing, can anyone suggest which battery I should upgrade to and where to find one (or if anyone is willing to offer theirs)?
I just used an Elite 1500mah mini 8.4v for testing, and it worked awsome. It's the same battery I use in my G36 pushing an equivalent spring.
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Okay, I'm going to abandon the idea of a higher voltage as the cheapest gears I could find were like 75 roughly and pretty much everyone has said its bad to just drop a higher voltage battery into the gun. But Evike.com has done a pre-upgrade with the gun using the following items:
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=1636
an M120 spring (12.00 dollars) (390fps roughly).
and they reshimmed it.
Q1: I know I can replace the spring and piston no problem but reshimming is going to be a new experience. Is there a good guide to reshimming?
Q2: here's what Im looking for in the gun:
Same rof or better
greater velocity
greater accuracy
less electric noise
I know the piston, spring, and tight bore will help with velocity and accuracy but what is the cheapest/best way to maintain/increase ROF and is there a way to reduce the noise the electric motor makes?
You can't reduce the noise of the motor itself. You can reduce the noise of the piston by installing a silent piston head (will also increase life of piston). With a stronger spring you will also need a new spring guide, and if you're going for 400-ish FPS, you may want new bushings as well -I'm not sure how good the ones are that are in it. Another way to increase ROF without really replaceing anything is to open the mechbox, wipe away all the grease and oil, and re-grease it yourself using gearbox oil and lithium grease (G&P sells a grearbox grease set, which has 3 types of grease in it for the mechbox). A stronger spring will also reduce ROF. If you want a really high ROF you may need to replace the gears with torque-up ones. Another thing is that the L85 has a longer piston stroke than most guns, so it's probably unreasonable to assume you'll get the ROF out of it you can get from a V2 or V3 gun. What kind of ROF are you looking for anyway?
On another note, I ran mine today with a 1500mah 8.4v battery (Elite battery from cheapbatterypacks.com) and the performance increase was amazing. No more mechbox lockups, and an increased ROF. I ofund the ROF this battery gave the gun makes it very easy to fire off a 3-round burst when in full auto. ROF is probably around 12 RPS.
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You would need a new set of gears if you were going to get a 16 tooth piston then right? Are there any recomendations for a 16 tooth piston and gears? How do you reduce the length of the cylinder?
All you need is a new sector gear and a spacer that goes on the front of the piston. Redwolf has the kits.
Yeah thats the reason noones using higher voltages, on this gun even with a 8.4, due to the longer piston, it doesn't have enough time to go forwards with the stock spring and setup before the gears have cycled again, which catches midway down the piston causing damage.So increase the spring power/ speed of movement of the piston (make it lighter or make the piston head a worse seal), and or make it a standard 16 tooth, before upgrading the voltage or you'll have a bust piston in no time (a la mine.)
Did you break yours using a "normal" 8.4v battery, or something a little more powerful? I'm thinking of putting a normal 8.4 in mine.
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Thanks for the response. Thats very interesting about the hop-up and barrel, I was looking at probably the same hop-up so maybe I will hold out on getting it. Please do post about how well it works. I don't intend on running it with the blow-back, as much as I like the feature I don't see it contributing to the guns performance. Has anyone tried higher voltages and seen the performance? Ive been through the thread and what I found was talk about lowering the voltage or maintaining it, no one seems to have tried higher voltage. Why would the ROF affect the piston and cylinder. I thought that was affected more by spring strength.
A higher ROF is going to cycle the mechbox a lot faster, which means more frequent impact loads on the piston head and cylinder head. Generally this will wear it out faster. With a stock spring it's not much of an issue. It becomes more of a problem with upgrades (blowing off the front of a V2 mechbox anyone?). The other thing to consider (not so much here since we can put a 400fps spring in a gun, not sure about the UK) is that on a really high ROF with a stock spring, the piston may not have time to come all the way forward before the mechbox fully cycles. This will cause it to "catch" the piston on its forward stroke, which will strip the piston teeth and probably isn't too good for the gears either.
About the inner barrel, I should mention that the Systema one is "wider" than the stock one; Ie, I actually had trouble fitting it through the front of the outer barrel where the flashhider screws on. I had to lube the hell out of the outside of the hop-up rubber to get the thing into the G&P hop-up unit. I'm not sure if the Army barrel is narrower, or if the Systema one is wider than most other inne
r barrels. As soon as I can skirmish this thing though I'll post back here on the results.
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point well taken. thank you.
No problem. Having a CA36 as my primary with an upgraded spring, I'm used to the effects of a low battery (the thing takes a small 1500mah on a motor that can draw 20+ amps).
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Would a 10.8volt wreck this gun? Im waiting to get it back as the sling broke and the outer barrel bent. When I get it back I would like to replace the spring and piston. To make up for the decreased rate of fire, due to the spring, I want to get a higher voltage battery. Please explain WHY as well, whats going to happen with the gearbox spinning at higher r.p.m.? Would you recommend reshimming it before getting the battery? Lastly, what sized shims does this gun take?
If my questions have been answered already please direct me to the page, i don't like when things are repeated either but 63 pages of conversation is alot to get through. Thanks for any help.
Other upgrade considerations:
Hop-up
tightbore 6.03 JBU 509mm (already bought).
I wouldn't run a 10.8v without doing some internal work. Guaranteed it would destroy the blowback mechanism, and I'd be willing to bet it will shred the piston as well. I don't think there is any stock gun I would run a 10.8v in, not without a piston, piston head, cylinder head. Others who have actually done it may have better info though.
As for the upgrades I've dropped a Systema 6.04 in mine combined with a G&P metal hopup unit. I found I lost a little FPS -went from about 345 to 335 on 0.20's. After I get a chance to skirmish it I'll see how it does, I may swap out the spring with a more powerful one.
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the 7.2 battery is simply too weak to cycle the piston back with any consistency for a long period of time. as the battery loses charge, you 'll see that compression rate wanes -- the cycle has to go back all the way back and all the way forward consistently. the motor will slow down and not pull as hard until it simply won't work anymore.
with a hotter battery, you will obviously get more consistency in cycle for a longer period of time and bb's will fly further out for a longer period of time. with 7.2V it's...it's...well...i wouldn't try it. i'd say minutes of decent flight time before 7.2V runs out of juice.
But again, the piston still has to come all of the way back before it is released. The power of the battery won't effect the power of the spring. It's not like the piston will only come back "half way" before being released and thus lose FPS... it has to do a full cycle every shot. If it can't, the GB locks up. FPS should remain more or less constant, it's just the cycle rate that will decrease.
Problems with it stopping firing in semi are probably down to not pulling the trigger right back and holding it until it stops cycling.I.e. doing quick 'taps' on the trigger instead of a 'full sqeeze'.
Because of the longer piston (than a 'normal' AEG), the firing cycle is a bit longer, and if you let the trigger go before it stops itself, the cut-off lever will still be activated and it won't fire again until you switch to auto (which disables the cut-off).
This is how I understand it anyway...
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no.
don't try it. the original battery will drive the gun but ROF is awful and the bb's simply will not fly far
How does that work? I can see how ROF would be bad, but the piston is still getting pulled back as far = same compression, no?
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They are gonna be pretty tough i would'nt worry about it. It should come with a hard carry case and protective sleeve for transporting / storing which is where it is more likely to get broken.
THat's what I was wondering. I've just seen optics break on a direct hit on the lense, and don't want that happen
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I'm purchasing a STAR SUSAT for mine with an army code rail so it will fit. I was wondering what kind of protector anyone recommends for the SUSAT to prevent it from getting broken from a BB hit, or if it is necessary at all.
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thanks very much for the info. i'll go ahead and give this a try and hopefully this resolves my issue.
No problem
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if you get this to the shop and they manage to fix the semi-auto trigger issue, ask them them what they did to fix it and please post what you find out. i am very curious about what the pros think about it. fyi, i have taken this box apart many times and still cannot get it to go although i have only a couple of little hunches that i think may fix the problem, i haven't tried it yet. i will post if i solve the trigger problem.
the latest problem is that i cracked the piston head and have to replace this as soon as airsoft extreme opens again for the holidays. fyi, thi is a replacement CA plastic piston head that i used to do the 16 tooth downgrade modification. the modification works great in 8.4v and 9.6V ROF. i think that i may have over torqued the screw to hold all of the parts together and cracked the head and constant use just excacerbated the problem. i will use an aluminum piston head and i think that will solve it.
The semi-auto trigger problem is due to the design of the Mechbox. There really isn't anything that can be done to fix it. Check out this article on ASC that explains it:
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=25310
As for the trigger contact issue, the metal contacts separated. It was a matter of removing the trigger assembly from the mechbox and bending them back into position. Putting a few dabs of solder on the doesn't hurt either.
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Hey all,
Just purchased the R85 a few weeks ago, waiting for it to arrive. You guys are lucky, Canadian price was $560 (approx 275UK), but considering the G&G one retails for about $900 and the Star for $1,200, it's not that bad.
I've read a bit about the semi-auto problems with this gun. It's not unique to it, most mechboxes lock up in semi-auto on an incomplete trigger pull. My FA-MAS used to do it really bad. The trigger contact problem isn't unique either. Had a smilar issue with my CA36 and I know of a SiG 552 that had the same issue. It seems every gun has its little quirks. Hopefully though I can spend less than $100 ontop of this to make the R85 a good reliable skirmisher.
Army Armament R85 (L85A1)
in Rifles (AEG)
Posted
Well, I ended up selling mine for a Marui MP5. I'd sunk about $900 into the gun and it still didn't perform well. At that point I was like "screw it". I think I'll wait for the ICS L85. Too bad, this one looked liked a pretty good option
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