kalnaren

Well, I ended up selling mine for a Marui MP5. I'd sunk about $900 into the gun and it still didn't perform well. At that point I was like "screw it". I think I'll wait for the ICS L85. Too bad, this one looked liked a pretty good option .

Has anyone mounted an arm code rail to this thing? I just got it and and the rail mounts are completely different.. do you actually have to drill int o the body of the L85? If that's the case I'm just going to file the damned rail down.

Honestly, it was a lot easy for me to just put a couple of layers of electrical tape between the top of the mag body and top of the plastic insert. The hopup in my gun is metel, so I don't want to even attempt to modify it. Also, since this is the only gun I own that uses STANAG mags, modifying them was a decent choice. I did 5 mags in about an hour (including testing) and it seems to be working just fine.

The systema barrel I had was a very tight fit. Make sure the barrel is aligning properly with the very end of the outer barrel. I ended up taking my tightbore out as it happened to be a cause of some of the misfeeding. The rest of the misfeding is caused because the magazines sit too low in the reciever. Not quite sure how to solve that one.

Has anyone had problems with this gun misfeeding? I'm using KA 68-round mags, and the thing misfeeds like no tomorrow. It's very annoying. I don't think the problem is the magazines. When I take the mag out the feed tube has BB's in it. No matter how I move the magazine, it only feeds one shot randomly. It more seems like the nozzel isn't retracting far enough to allow BB's into the hop-up.

Great.. took it out for my first day of skirmishing with it, and semi auto stopped working (fires full auto when in semi)... very annoying. Anyone have any idea how to fix that problem? Edit: Nevermind. I found the problem. A stupid BB got lodged in the selector assembly, preventing it from moving. Stupid.

It's good to hear. Unfortunetly in Canada it still sucks that we have to pay $500 US for an ACM gun that may or may not work and require another $100-$200 in parts. Ah well, such is life. I'm hoping to get this gun out to it's first game next weekend.

The only other magazines I've tried in this gun were King Arms 68 round mags. Most feed ok, one I had to add a couple of layers of tape to the front to get it to feed correctly. As for battery, right now I'm running mine with a standard Elite 7 cell 1500mah mini battery (using a connector) -the same ones I use in my G36. It runs the gun just fine, 10 times better than the stock ones.

No, it doesn't come with a tightbore. I added a Systema tightbore and a G&P metal hop-up unit to the gun. My problem is barrel alignment. The gun is bang accurate -just with the sights very far to the right. Once I can actually get it out to a game I'll find out if it's really an issue or not. If the barrel is slightly misaligned but I can compansate for it with the sights, I don't really care all that much.

The barrel is a Systema tightbore, it's straight. It's just misaligned in the gun.

Yea, mine shoots way to the left as well. Must be something in the way it's made. I want to run an 8.4v in mine just so I have enough power to more or less avoide the semi-auto locking issue. My FA-MAS had the same issue every once in a while so if it does it every now and then I'm not too worried about it. I primarily use semi-auto so ROF isn't a concern. IMO people who want crazy high ROF on anything but a support weapon are trying to compensate

check out www.cheapbatterypacks.com. Good prices, well assembled batteries and good quality cells.

I just used an Elite 1500mah mini 8.4v for testing, and it worked awsome. It's the same battery I use in my G36 pushing an equivalent spring.

You can't reduce the noise of the motor itself. You can reduce the noise of the piston by installing a silent piston head (will also increase life of piston). With a stronger spring you will also need a new spring guide, and if you're going for 400-ish FPS, you may want new bushings as well -I'm not sure how good the ones are that are in it. Another way to increase ROF without really replaceing anything is to open the mechbox, wipe away all the grease and oil, and re-grease it yourself using gearbox oil and lithium grease (G&P sells a grearbox grease set, which has 3 types of grease in it

All you need is a new sector gear and a spacer that goes on the front of the piston. Redwolf has the kits. Did you break yours using a "normal" 8.4v battery, or something a little more powerful? I'm thinking of putting a normal 8.4 in mine.

A higher ROF is going to cycle the mechbox a lot faster, which means more frequent impact loads on the piston head and cylinder head. Generally this will wear it out faster. With a stock spring it's not much of an issue. It becomes more of a problem with upgrades (blowing off the front of a V2 mechbox anyone?). The other thing to consider (not so much here since we can put a 400fps spring in a gun, not sure about the UK) is that on a really high ROF with a stock spring, the piston may not have time to come all the way forward before the mechbox fully cycles. This will cause it to "catch" the p

No problem. Having a CA36 as my primary with an upgraded spring, I'm used to the effects of a low battery (the thing takes a small 1500mah on a motor that can draw 20+ amps).

I wouldn't run a 10.8v without doing some internal work. Guaranteed it would destroy the blowback mechanism, and I'd be willing to bet it will shred the piston as well. I don't think there is any stock gun I would run a 10.8v in, not without a piston, piston head, cylinder head. Others who have actually done it may have better info though. As for the upgrades I've dropped a Systema 6.04 in mine combined with a G&P metal hopup unit. I found I lost a little FPS -went from about 345 to 335 on 0.20's. After I get a chance to skirmish it I'll see how it does, I may swap out the spring with

But again, the piston still has to come all of the way back before it is released. The power of the battery won't effect the power of the spring. It's not like the piston will only come back "half way" before being released and thus lose FPS... it has to do a full cycle every shot. If it can't, the GB locks up. FPS should remain more or less constant, it's just the cycle rate that will decrease. http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=25310

How does that work? I can see how ROF would be bad, but the piston is still getting pulled back as far = same compression, no?

THat's what I was wondering. I've just seen optics break on a direct hit on the lense, and don't want that happen

I'm purchasing a STAR SUSAT for mine with an army code rail so it will fit. I was wondering what kind of protector anyone recommends for the SUSAT to prevent it from getting broken from a BB hit, or if it is necessary at all.

No problem

The semi-auto trigger problem is due to the design of the Mechbox. There really isn't anything that can be done to fix it. Check out this article on ASC that explains it: http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=25310 As for the trigger contact issue, the metal contacts separated. It was a matter of removing the trigger assembly from the mechbox and bending them back into position. Putting a few dabs of solder on the doesn't hurt either.

Hey all, Just purchased the R85 a few weeks ago, waiting for it to arrive. You guys are lucky, Canadian price was $560 (approx 275UK), but considering the G&G one retails for about $900 and the Star for $1,200, it's not that bad. I've read a bit about the semi-auto problems with this gun. It's not unique to it, most mechboxes lock up in semi-auto on an incomplete trigger pull. My FA-MAS used to do it really bad. The trigger contact problem isn't unique either. Had a smilar issue with my CA36 and I know of a SiG 552 that had the same issue. It seems every gun has its little quir