-MOOSE-
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Posts posted by -MOOSE-
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I've had my MOABs for over a year now, mainly used for airsofting here in southern California so no real challenging environment except for the sole and the overall comfort of the boot. I have used them for hikes, both short and long, in the country side with hilly and rocky terrain as well as in Sweden.
I bought these to replace my original Nike trail running shoes that I used for airsofting and hiking, I used the Nikes for this because I was never really a fan of ancle support and they were very, very comfortable. But one day I slipped and fell off a steep hill and rolled my ancle, after the fall I noticed that I could have easily broken my ancle and crushed my knee cap. I went home and ordered a pair of Alta knee pads(wonderful btw) and set off exploring the market for good hiking boots with just the right amount of ancle support.
I narrowed it down to the MOAB Mids, bought them at a local store that had a sale for 80USD and never looked back. Though, I did replace the insole with a Dr. Scholl's gell sole, I cannot remember which model exactly but it did wonders in comfort. Not to say that the original layout of the boot was uncomfortable, they were great, but I have had a series of surgeries on my left thigh that eventually screwed up my left hip so that I need to wear something like the Dr. Scholl's or similar inserts to walk for prolonged distances without pain in my hip(and I'm barely 18 years old... yay for hip replacement by age 30!)
I bought the Gore-Tex and was worried that because of them being waterproof it would sacrifice in breathability, but they do not! They feel like air passes though with no resistance whatsoever. This means that those with sweaty feet will stay mostly dry, something I find really crucial as I live in a place dominated by high temperatures and like my feet to be dry. They are still able to keep one relatively warm in colder weather. I wore them in +9C with regular thin breathable socks and it was windy outside, I stayed fairly warm in them. Though +9C is nothing compared to winter in the North, it is really as low as it gets around here mostly. For real winter I would advice you to get a real boot and socks for that cold climate, though you can still use the MOABs with thicker winter socks and still be fine depending on the person.
I wore them this past summer of 2010 in Sweden through grass and seaside rocks, as well as forests and especially though water. They held up just perfectly but I felt the need to always push them to the limit in the water. Every time it rained or I found a puddle I would go outside to get them wet! And every time they would not let the water through! I stood in a puddle for 5 minutes(I know it's not that long) almost up to the top and no water seeped through. I am extremely impressed!
On solid rocks or across Scandinavian fields and forests they held up great. I never felt like they would slip on any surface. On the Californian sandy and rocky hills they also hold up great, I feel like the traction I get with them is beyond anything I've ever used before. They are almost glued to the ground on the soft sand and small rocks. When running up and down hills with sand and small rocks(yes, sand and rocks are everywhere.... :/ ) they have no problems keeping stuck to the ground. I experienced the same feeling as I was in Sweden, running up and down hills with moist grass which is very easy to slip on!
I could write a better review but Will already made a good one and there are many more good reviews online anyways. But if I have to stress one feature of this boot it has to be the comfort! Granted, I did switch the sole for a better one, but that is for ME personally because of my bad hip. I just needed something softer to step onto.
All in all, great boot, great informative review Will, thanks
You wont be disappointed buying this boot!
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Here's my kit, not an impression but I think it all fits pretty well in this thread. Minus the SR-16, the gear is fairly suited for an SF impression. I'll add a kit list if requested.
I am the dude standing in the middle. For more pictures of the Germans check the Flecktarn thread. Pictures curtesy of FELDJÄGER.
(Click thumbnail for large image)
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So Im working on a compact setup, trying to figure out a rail system that can take a battery in it? Was looking at the TRX anyone have any experience with fiting a battery inside possibly? I want to use a standard stock, may have to just go with a crane style or unless Im just not seeing a nice sleek battery box option? This is what I have at the moment
You could always wire it to the rear and put a stick lipo battery in the buffer tube. I love using that kind of set up on my M4's.
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I have never been so envious in my life.
Great looking guns!
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I bet that it would look better upside down.
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He is using a one piece rig.
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Ok, now I have toyed around with my Masada a little and tried to zero the sights on it at 10 meters/yards (appr). This might be a noob problem but..
With maximum popup and the front sight screwed all the way to the bottom I still get the hits some 10-15cm (4-6 inches for those who are metrically challenged) below target. I feel that the popup is somewhat non-functioning. On my very old TM P90 the problem is the opposite. The amount of hopup needed is very little. A touch to the hopup dial and the bb´s make a nice climb over the target.
Anybody else have the same problem, or am I just a lame n00b who should go back to stamp collecting? Can it be battery related? I am running an 8,4V/1050mAh mini battery.
You might want to just keep on shooting to let the bucking break in. Some buckings that I have used really needed to be broken in before I could successfully dial it in and it would shoot consistently. Other buckings did not have this problem, but those were few. I always make sure to shoot a lot before I give up on it, even though the initial shots are flying inconsistently, after a while they fly very nicely. But that is just my experiense, hope it helps though, good luck!
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Sorry for asking a stupid question. But what is a "muslim dessing"?
Anyway, realy nice kits guys.
He meant Muslin, it is a thin cotton fabric used as bandages. And its called Muslin Dressing, or Muslin Bandage.
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Looks like the Swedish milk packages, they come in several sizes and colors.
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I found that my Strikers also fog quick too, I had to rip the foam on the bottom of the goggles just to make things bearable.
Lost patience in the end and dumped the whole thing.
You should have tried to rip the foam on the top too, the fog is of course hot air and moisture and that rises so ripping out the top will let more of it out. It will lose the protective value of dust goggles but will keep you safe from BBs still, I cant imagine any BBs to squeeze themselves through the vents at such extreme angles. It is almost like wearing shooting glasses now, but even more open and airy, I quite like it, but not under a helmet, thne I just use my shooting glasses.
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And then you might want to post your kit list...
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And because airsofters care so much, it keeps up the resell value when you keep the trades intact, even if painted, and especially if painted so well as Nor has done. Good job!
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Ive never been able to comfortably wear suspenders with my duty belt, even with some weight on it.
Though if I was to wear a complete PLCE or ALICE kit, I would see the point in wearing suspenders, as it would be much heavier.
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You can hear the BB hit.
Sure a lot of people may cheat but I always hear it and you can easily tell if you got hit even if you dont feel it by the sound.
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I always thought of Duracoat of being something that the item is dipped in.
Cheers for that bud.
I guess that you could do it, but you'd need a lot of paint for that. The bottles I used were probably 5 ounces, if I remember correctly. In that case you need an air spray, and I think it would work best that way actually, because it's so durable that you don't need any think coats or even several coats. My 6004 only has a single coat and as I said earlier, there's barely any wear and I've used it a lot.
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The ways I've used Duracoat is through an air spray.
My friend received a little bottle and hooked it up to the air spray and started painting the gear he needed and what I needed painted. It doesn't use much paint at all, thin but even coats if you know how to use the air spray. Just add a few coats and let dry, the paint is as hard as steel, i beat my Kevlar lid with a screw driver several times to get it to scratch/chip, it took some time.
It's the best paint I know of, but for those who like wear, don't go down this road. And it was somewhat expensive, but we didn't pay for it anyway, so it's all good.
And it depends on the surface you're spraying on, just like any other paint, a smooth surface will wear off more easily than a rough. Just imagine the somewhat rough surface of a Safariland, my buddy had painted that thing a few years back and it was a little beat up but nothing serious(He's in SWAT, so he uses it for work). Well, he tried to spray sand on it to get paint off and to ensure that the new Duracoat would stick onto the holster, the paint already there would not come off, at all. It simply looked a little dusty, and the holster had been worn and beat around a lot so its surface was not as extreme as a new holsters surface. The new coat has been on the holster for more than three years and minor wear.
He painted his service rifle(M4), so it's very smooth, without sanding the surface and the paint has been on it for about 5 years, but it does have some scratches and chips, no big deal though.
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Cute <3
It looks different, what have you done to it?
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On another side note, those pics also helped me
Because I like how the rail looks in conjunction with the MagPul stock and MIAD, something I haven't seen before but been really interested in doing myself. Thanks a lot! -
It does look great
Are you going to paint it?
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You should be able to put a KWA GX2 gearbox into a VFC body, however, you would need a one-piece hop-up, like the MadBull you wanted to use.
Though, you do have to buy a new receiver set to fit a one-piece hop-up for the KWA AEG, the body is not compatible.
So to make the MadBull unit fit in a KWA, you have to replace the receiver, I know it's a pain to have to buy a new one but modifying the current receiver will not be able to withstand possible force that may be put on the receiver in case you fall or drop the gun. Also, one of my friends has been using the MadBull hop-up units and he commonted on how the BB's would jam(he used a MadBull Blue bucking). You might want to check out some reviews to get other opinions before you buy a new unit.
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Rustoleum has always worked well for me, it has taken quite a bit of time for it to come off.
Several coats is a good idea and also to use primer could've worked. You just have to face the fact that whatever is painted on your gun that you touch often will wear off, sure a primer would help but it would wear after long term use. A really good idea is to sand-blast the parts first to create an uneven surface, almost like stippling but a lot smaller, the paint will stick in that and wont rub off as easily. Though if you're trying to paint a rubberized surface then scratch that.
One of my old friends painted his real M4 with DuraCoat, after a few years it's got some scratches and a few chips but that paint is sticking to the gun like crazy! Too bad it's kinda expensive.
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Yes, I have the 1st generation KWA M4.
The two-piece hop-up means that the tube that feeds the BB's into the hop-up is a seperate part from the hop-up chamber. In a one-piece, the feeding tube and the chamber would be one singe unit, and on a KWA, it is not. The KWA uses the Tokyo Marui design hop-up. Another problem with the stock KWA hop-up, and I'm sure I've posted this before, is that it is extremely picky over which bucking will fit, it is the tightest hop-up I have ever had to deal with, so switching it to an aftermarket unit(KA, Systema, MadBull, etc.) would open a door to a wide range of buckings that will fit.
I have the M4 type cylinder, in which there is a hole in the back to let out some air when the piston is moving through it, just like the stock cylinders hole but a bit further towards the rear.
Update:
I used it today again, no problem with anything. It shot smoothly but I still need to fix the air-seal problem with the hop-up but other than that it shot pretty straight and still very well.
I wish that I could've shot more with it, I only shot about 90 BB's the entire day! I load about 90 BB's in one midcap and I carry about 7-8. So next weekend I'll head over to Desert Fox MOUT field, hopefully, and this is the beast I'm bringing along. I'm expecting good results and I'm also expecting a lot of rounds being fired so I'll update this after that.
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I've got everything squared away with the internals. I was going to use it for two more days of play and post up my results, I've now used it three full days of play.
I haven't had any problems with anything breaking yet, it's going strong.
Though there are other problems that I need fixed. First, the hop-up, the *suitcasey* two-piece design is leaking air like crazy, it would also help to get a polymer air nozzle, and not the stock metal one as it will wear on the cylinder head when moving back and forth.
My plans are to throw out the hop-up for a King Arms one-piece. Everyone I play with, including my tech all have the King Arms and they love it, and I can see why. They use it in conjunction with a MadBull Blue bucking, but I'm still thinking that I would like to get a new FireFly H-Bucking.
Here's where the real big problem comes in, I will need a new receiver set to be able to be able to install a one-piece hop-up, unless anyone has a guide to modify the upper to be strong enough. The lower could be modified to work easily, the upper would need the tangs removes and add two flaps or lugs to insert into the back of the lower, which would be a pain to get it to be strong. If no one knows a way then I'll have to buy a new receiver
and I think that I might need a new outer barrel, if not it would still be nice to get a one-piece barrel. What is with KWA and two-piece parts???I will need my M4 for travel this summer and need it fixed up by then so any ideas would be appreciated.
Since my upgrades, it should have shot at least 400FPS with .20g BB's. I chrono'd it last weekend and it came out at an average of 365FPS with .20g BB's. The compression of the cylinder is very, very good. There are literally no air leaks through the cylinder, so it has to be the hop-up:angry:
Also, the motor feels kind of weak after so much use. It shoots fast as hell, not over 1000RPM but really fast still! But like I said, the motor sounds like it's had it's day and is struggling to keep up. My tech uses a G&P motor of some kind, and his guns are strong, I might change to one of those motors.
Besides that, it's good, really good.
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I know what pic you're talking about, and yeah, they look too big to be G19's. My bet is that they are G17's.
H&K Picture Thread
in Weapons
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What?