kruck
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Posts posted by kruck
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You could try .4g, I got a lovely flat trajectory with them and fantastic range. When I ran out, I turned the hop off (this is a stock gun, with the hop rubber teflon taped to the outer barrel) and used .28g, got overhop at about 40-45m.
You can make your own nub out of wire insulation (try different gauges and materials and see what works for you) or you could chop a bit off a biro inner. Alternatively, steal a nub off an AEG (which are slightly smaller than the stock WE nub iirc).
I'd still recommend .4g though, 'cause they're awesome
Edit:
FPS was about 360 with .2g, outdoors at very cold degrees C, limited to single shot with a MED of 30m. I didn't have to get anywhere near that close to people though, I got several one-shot-kills at 60m+
Made up for the low ammo count at least
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Wgc or ratech, don't bother with the kit that includes the adjuster though.
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Wgc or ratech, don't bother with the kit that includes the adjuster though.
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Heh, I have the exact same problem with USP mags, you're right it requires four hands. Either get someone to help, or you can try my "method" which was to wedge the magazine in a drawer, pushing the drawer shut with my body (which pushes the base into position), then using my hands to insert the pins. It is incredibly awkward (even more so if you're sitting on a chair with wheels), and a vice would have made it much simpler. Unfortunately, the MP9 mags are quite long which will make finding a suitable vice difficult, and using a drawer very unstable - you might have to fashion something yourself to do the wedging for you.
If my method isn't clear let me know and I'll attempt a diagram
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You could file down the floating valve a tad until it is at your desired FPS. What I did with my broken RATECH NPAS valve in the MP7, got it to bang on 345 at the height of summer and down to 320 in autumn-winter.
Otherwise, you could add a tightbore and/or shim the gas router on the magazine to bump your FPS a tad.
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So they do, I stand corrected
I'll order a few when they come back in stock, see if they make any appreciable difference in my system 7s.
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No aftermarket rubbers, most KSC/KWA rubbers are interchangeable. Give elite shooting centre a ring see if he has any hop rubbers left, if not give fire support a bell.
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I'm glad I got rid of mine when I did. All in all it was a decent shooter, performance on par with other TM GBBs I've had, but the reports on here prompted me to ditch it before any of the problems described in here arose. The kick was decent, and probably the best out of the TMs I've had, but honestly nothing special - my System 7 USP kicks harder. The main irritant I had was the magazines and the grip. The mags themselves hold a lot of gas, leading to a large number of shots per fill - but again its beaten by the USP. The mags are also very irritating to load, especially when you're used to a more convenient design (i.e. lock down followers, a la KSC/KWA). The grip shape irritated me somewhat for two-handed shooting, although it is probably the best grip I've used for one-handed shooting.
..but the lack of aftermarket support and replacement parts for the common faults shown in the thread are what sealed the deal for me.
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Too late, already sold it
I'd considered doing that, but felt it was too much hassle and would end up hurting the resale value if I ever ended up wanting to sell it.
It was certainly fun while it lasted, and having had a taste of WE's open chamber rifles I can't wait to get another one
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Skirmished for the first time in woodland yesterday. What a rifle. .4g are laser accurate to a great range, worked very well in 5°C weather, got at least 2 mags per fill of gas (refilled after that), got some incredible one-hit kills at 50m+.
But I'm selling it.
I *fruitcage* hate g36 magazines, they are the most irritating and cumbersome things in the world. I am, however, sold on the WE Open Bolt design, so I'll be picking up another one down the road with magazines that I get on with.
Fun while it lasted though
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Finally got around to shooting this outside. Hop off, got a good range with .28g, although the BBs were flying high (not really overhopping, but above the sight-picture). Went out to a fantastic range with very good consistency.
Stuck some .4g in it, the hop on about a quarter, slightly lower but still above the sight-picture, even better range/consistency. Might have helped if it was sunny, I might have seen the light brown .4g BBs more clearly, but in any case the hop needs some work.
When I get around to ordering an NPAS I'll buy a hop rubber or two (I'd really like a stock TM rubber, but I've sold all my TM GBBs long long ago) to test it with and try out different sized hop spacers to see what can be made of the trajectory.
If it can't be rectified I'll just stick a RDS on top to point at the BBs
Also as an aside, .4g BBs are AMAZING in KSC USP .45, BBs go on forever with a very stable, flat trajectory. Indoor groupings show an improvement over .28g too. The hop is easily capable of handling them, with the hop 2/3rds the way on.
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To start with, you need to go from this:
To this:
Use something to rotate this thing (I used the pliers end of a multi tool.) towards me in this picture is loosening. When you reassemble, make sure you tighten this as much as you can, careful you don't snap anything though:
Slide the outer barrel off, there is an o-ring on the thing the nut screws onto. I can't remember if that was already there or if I added it - if you haven't got one I'd suggest putting one on:
Push in the inner barrel and hop unit out towards the back:
Locate grub screw on top of the hop unit:
Unscrew with 1.5mm allen key:
slide the housing down the length of the barrel:
Use small Philips head screwdriver to dismantle hop unit, take off adjusting-thingy first:
How everything sits on the inside:
Wrap in teflon tape like so, both sealing the hop rubber to the barrel (a similar technique used with VSRs etc. to improve consistency), and tightening the fit between the inner barrel and the hop chamber:
Reverse the steps for reassembly. The only fiddly thing is the adjuster, which needs a little fiddling to get on right. Make sure you tighten all the screws nice and tight. The grub screw can be replaced with a longer one as Riko suggests, however I haven't found this necessary on mine. Apply threadlock/loctite if you're worried about anything coming loose.
There are two methods two disassemble the nozzle to the floating valve (i.e. to install NPAS), this is my preferred method.
Push out this pin, it only goes out one way:
Undo the two screws with a small Phillips head screwdriver here:
And another picture:
Pry out the plastic things the screws were holding in, you'll have to push the nozzle forwards quite a bit to get a good angle on it. They should pop out relatively easily:
Nozzle out of the bolt, notice the silver pin about 2/3rd the way down from the left:
Push the silver pin out, again it only comes out one way (one side is wider than the other, push towards the wider side), requires very little force:
The little silver pin holds the two halves together, and the nozzle return spring in (the first pin you punched out at the start holds the other end of the nozzle return spring to the bolt):
With the two halves apart, you can let the floating valve drop out. I haven't got an NPAS yet so specific instructions with regard to modifying it are best addressed to someone else, but this is how you get to where you need to get to:
Simply reverse all the steps to reassemble. The fiddly bits here are getting the pins to go through the spring - do it in the exact reverse order and be patient - its pretty easy. The other method I find a lot more difficult to reattach the spring which is why I didn't bother with it. Make sure you put the pins in the right way, otherwise it's all fairly simple.
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I'll get the camera out tomorrow morning when its daytime and do a full pic takedown thingy, if I remember. If anyone wants it desperately shoot me a PM tomorrow morning to remind me
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Inner or outer?
If inner, disassemble the hop unit and shim the rubber/barrel where it leaves the unit until it wobbles no longer (with teflon tape or similar).
If outer, tighten the big nut under the handguard.
I had a touch of both wobbles, rock solid now.
I'll take it down and take pictures if anyone needs it, my camera is working for once
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Miss my posts earlier about not tightening the fill valves? The valve you linked to is the one to get if you've snapped yours too, I've broken 2 so far and pre-emptively replaced a 3rd. The hornbill fill valves are really strong & don't leak.
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If it's stronger than the stock recoil spring, it'll reduce the impact to the rear end. If you're going to use it, use it in summer, since that's when the bolt will be need more damping.
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Rocket valve aka floating valve, aka something else probably, is the valve inside the loading nozzle that regulates gas flow from the magazine, down the barrel & to the blow back action. It's the thing you replace with the NPAS (which is the adjustable one), allowing you to lower the FPS to keep under site limits.
You're probably thinking of high-flow valves (which is the release/outlet valve on the magazine). I've never used them, so I wouldn't know.
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See, I quite fancy one of these, but I want to be able to make sure I can get it to run reliably at 350ish fps on green/propane. Is there an NPAS or somesuch available yet?
Yep, the RATECH NPAS for WE Open Bolt works in this, $15 from HK (ratech themselves, other HK retailers had them in stock too). It is literally a couple of minutes to get to the rocket valve to install the NPAS. Haven't bothered ordering mine yet, going to wait until I need it when the weather warms up.
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RSOV is a hot tip
Indeed, they're £2/$3.50 each from RSOV
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In case the swear filter causes any doubt, I mean it would be incredibly easy to install an NPAS valve.
The replacement fill valves from Hornbill are great, all leaks sorted and I no longer have valves made of the softest metal known to man.
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Mine chronoed 280-320fps, quite cold indoors (around 8deg), although I didn't skirmish it on the day and when plinking it was clear it needed a bit of lube.
Took it home, took it completely to bits for fun (it really is about the easiest gun to take apart ever made). The inner barrel was loose in the hop up, shimmed it with a bit of teflon tape so it is snug & there is no more wobble. It looks like the hop spacer is compatible with AEG spacers, if you're horrendously over hopping with .2g I'd assume using a standard AEG spacer would sort it.
As it is, the hop up is clearly capable of overhopping .4g, so plenty of capacity to skirmish with heavy BBs
The rocket valve is an absolute piece of ###### to get to, installing the NPAS would be a ~3 minute job.
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You'll need a M4x15 screw to attach the pistonhead to the bolt (I think that's the default size, I replaced it with an M4x20 after mine sheared so can't confirm the length of the original). I'd ask at a couple of retailers that stock MP7s if they have the little bar as a spare. If not, it shouldn't be too hard to make your own. Don't know the size of the screw that holds it in off-hand, but if you measure it I'm sure they're available on ebay, or here http://www.stagonset.co.uk/ (webshop is down at the moment).
KSC/KWA MP7
in Pistols (Gas)
Posted
You'll need an orange (kwa) piston cup, as iirc the internal diameters of the nozzles are different. The rest of the valves will be fine to keep, as you'll have the japanese floating valve which won't need replacing for UK limits.