[1911 Picture Thread]

Hi guys, quick question. Would a TM Hi cappa 5.1 guide rod be compatable with a TM 1911? Or a MEU? Im wanting to fit a recoil guide rod to my MEU, i know i need to faff with the stopper, what mods would i need to do to make it fit? Any alternatives? Thanks. Also, that springfield.. those grips.... just, amazing

[AR15 Picture Thread]

A recent aquisition: ICS M4 RIS. Bit confused, as the flashhider is immidiately after the ris, after the ris cap ring thing. If i put a normal 2 piece barrel on, and then continue to use this screw cap and the ics delta ring, will it all work? Or do i need to go for one of those screw on barrel extender things. Anyway, piccies:

 

 

[KJW M4]

Great, thats really good, thanks Mr Treble. I could probably expect all the other gas m4's to perform in a similar way. Now i know this isnt really the place, but some of you may know anyway. If i were to get an adjustable buffer, how exactly does this work? does it work in a siimilar way to an npas? Will this help to lower the wear on my gun if im using it with green gas, and use this to lower the fps? Thanks Guys

[JG - Jing Gong M4 GBB Rifle]

though surely if you put in a steel bolt catch, it is then the bcg that will get worn down, and these cost alot more to replace?

[KJW M4]

Yea, i could get an AGM with fully CNC'd aluminium internals delivered for that much now :/ These looked so promising, its a shame they never really seemed to hit the market.

[KJW M4]

Anyone got any ideas where these are currently in stock? looked high and low for one...

[AGM M4 GBB]

Hey guys, this seemed like the right place to go to ask these sorts of questions...

 

Ive just ordered the following upgrades, for a completely stock agm gbb.

 

: CNC Aluminium bolt carrier

: Adjustable buffer (this is basically an NPAS, or so im told?)

: CNC aluminium hop chamber

: Steel Bolt Catch

 

 

 

Ok, so, assuming i put the lowest power setting onto the buffer, and run it on "abbey ultra" gas... what sort of fps am i looking at, UK legal? What about on 134a?

 

I will mainly be using it on semi automatic... Roughly how many shots would you say i can get, before "something" breaks?

 

Is it worth me not getting the steel bolt catch? Ive been told that if you get a harder bolt catch, then the bolt carrier wears instead. And obviously, this is alot more expensive to replace. What would you reccomend?

 

Have i forgotten any upgrades?

 

thanks in advance,

 

Dom

[JG - Jing Gong M4 GBB Rifle]

Hi guys, Ive just read my way through the topic, and i was looking for a bit of help.

 

I want to get one of these rifles. Im quite happy with the plastic reciever. I intend to be using it on semi only, using 134a gas (to get it to legal uk fps... hopefully...)

 

What fps am i looking at using this gas?

 

Will the bolt lock back on the last round, if im shooting on semi auto?

 

Because im using 134a, im assuming the parts wont wear *too* badly. However, if i said i had £60 or so to do some basic upgrades, what would you reccomend? a steel bolt catch, a new hop chamber.. thats probably £30 odd gone right there. What else really needs doing?

 

With a steel bolt catch, on the pot metal bolt carrier, firing semi on 134a, roughly how many rounds would you guys estimate i would be able to fire before *something* broke? if something was going to break, what would it be?

 

What sort of accuracy will i be getting from this thing, at say, 30 metres, using 134a? i dont need rof or super long range, but trigger response and accuracy are more important.

 

 

I know thats alot of questions, i apologise, and thanks in advance!

 

[1911 Picture Thread]

Seraphein, absolutely beautiful. Can you post a picture of it with the slide locked back please, and a close up of the front of the muzzle, would be very much appreciated

[1911 Picture Thread]

Punky, that baby hi cappa is a small component of THE SEX, im sure of it. Its beautiful. I just dont know why though, but i hate the grips on hi cappa's. They just look too fat for me, especially on a wee lil shooter like that. Id rather get a 1911 double stacker, much thinner, and still looks shweet

[1911 Picture Thread]

Does anybody know if Bell mags are compatable with the Army MEU?

 

That they are, just about, but i really wouldnt reccomend it. The problem is the tolerances on the bell mags are just, well, *suitcase*. They are *supposed* to be, but many people have found they have problems with not quite fitting etc, and they often develop a leak quickly, or leak right out the box. Plus, why would you use normal 1911 mags in a MEU? Sacrilige if you ask me. You're better off spending the few extra $ getting the ARMY MEU mags, there good quality, and relatively cheap (in comparison to TM MEU mags), but you can still get 2 with change from £30

[1911 Picture Thread]

Sorry to say that, but those are some bad pictures.

 

What gun is that?

 

Did the same thing.

 

I figured out that you get less scratches on the metal if you wet-sand it.

 

http://www.abload.de/img/img_0557hb3b.jpg

 

Its an Army MEU, and yes, im aware they're bad pictures, but my proper camera is broken, was just looking for some input on what needed silverificating (yes its a real word)

 

Yea, wet sanding does help to minimise scratches. Did you polish yours afterwards? what with? Did you then seal it? What with? Sorry for all the questions, but seems like yours has maintained its shine better than mine.

 

Punky, loving the 1911, its almost detonics ish. Though personally, i think its a shame it has no trades to speak of. Nice pic though

[1911 Picture Thread]

Well i had to do something about the scuff marks on the chamber, so now, ive begun sanding down the barrel and chamber. 800 grit, then 1000 wet and dry. Now it just needs polishing up and sealing. With the silver trigger, silver barrel and chamber, and silver grip screws, i think there needs to be a little bit more. I cant decide whether to give the grip safety, ambi safety, both, or neither, the same treatment. Anyway, what do you guys think?

 

 

 

[1911 Picture Thread]

This arrived yesterday from ebaybanned, Less that 10 days between placing the order and arrival, so cant complain! Sorry for the pics, cant find my camera so used the one on my phone instead. Actually very surprised, for a gu8n that cost £45 including shipping, it shoots really well, and looks really nice too. Good quality finishing, and it seems the quality control has really been stepped up.

 

 

 

[1911 Picture Thread]

Hey guys, you seemed to be the ones to ask about this sort of thing...

 

 

Ive got an Army MEU on the way (black one), im intending to polish up the inner barrel and lower frame, should look pretty kick *albatross* on the outside.... Now i just need to know what to do to the inside? If i gave you a budget of say £50, what would YOU do? im not really wanting hi flows, or uprated hammer springs, as its a gas guzzler and shoots over 300 on green as is. I was thinking maybe recoil spring, but ive heard this stops it locking back? Which i also dont want.

 

Im thinking a new hop rubber, i was looking at the "shark hop rubber 60", is this a good choice? any different reccomendations? And also, the obligatory tightbore, possibly a PDI 6.1 if i can source one....

 

 

Anything else you can think of? Ill have to post some pictures when im done.

 

Thanks!

[gold army meu]

One thing I've found:

 

The ARMY stock recoil spring is quite soft and results in a sluggish return.

 

But the stock hammer spring is quite hard! Harder than a 150% hammer spring. This means a LOT of gas each shot.

 

So would i be right in thinking, that if i got a 150% recoil spring, and an original TM hammer spring (which im assuming would be rated at less then 150%? and so much less gas would be used, increasing the efficiency) Would it still have enough power to cycle the slide, even with the 150% recoil spring?

 

Or should i just get the 150% spring set, and fit them both?

 

Sorry about all the questions :L

 

And one final question... So weve got an AA MEU, with 150% recoil and hammer spring... How many rounds can i expect on green gas at around 15'c on a full fill of gas in an army mag? Just so i have an idea of how this will affect efficiency

 

 

Thanks alot guys!

 

[Aug Picture Thread]

felt obliged to do something to cover the absolutely hideous luminescent green that it used to be And i thought the same about the rails, so thats when i looked around and saw that conveniently flat area with no obstructions, and thought.. i could gut down like a 36c rail, so its just the right length to properly mount the taclight, and put it there? then the only thing interfering with the classic shape is a little taclight sticking up, which is only like, the same dimensions as my finger.

 

Mattmaniac, you are having problems with the scope here, you need to have a little look at a few terms, called "eye relief" , "parallax" and "focus" the first thing is that, when you look through the scope, you shold be able to see the whole of the lens at the other end of the scope, with no shadows around it. when you can see this, this is the correct "eye relief" distanc. Now you need to focus the scope, so it no longer looks blurry when you focus on objects 30 foot or so away. Finally, you need to check for parallax. this only makes a difference if you intend to be making really long range shots, or really quickly bringing the scope up to your eye. When you have done the previous 2 steps, aim at a distant object. Now, keeping the gun absolutely still, move your head around ever so slightly to look through the scope at different angles. If the crosshair appears to move, you have an issue called parallax, which basically means, Your gonna miss. Depending on the quality of the scope, this may not be a fixable error. If you do encounter this problem, you need to move the objective lens either slightly closer or further away

 

After youve done all of this, youll have a perfect, accurate sight set up, with the distances all as ergonomic and effective as they can be

[Aug Picture Thread]

And this is why the AUG military is better... The scope is positioned perfectly.

THE CAMO IS NOT MEANT TO BE FUNCTIONAL I.E I WILL NOT BLEND IN WITH IT. IT IS MEANT TO BE DISTINCTIVE AND UNIQUE. Just thought id get that off my chest before people say; oh you did it wrong.

Im thinking of mounting a RIS rail in the same place as the cocking lever on but on the opposite side, with a tac light, and then a custom laser in where the gas tube is. What you guys think?