mnmc10
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Posts posted by mnmc10
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on my friends msk the inner barrel (hop rubber side) is shorter than the regular inner barrel for the m4 scar pdw etc.so a hop bucking made for marui pistols or more known as vsr type barrels wont work on the msk inner barrel.
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the shims one at the back and one at the front of the barrel base
the barrel is from a WA/Gnp based gbbr, all i did was to fabricate shims for things to fit properly.
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short barrel msk convertion done you guys wouldnt believe whatouter barrel i used. williploadpics later
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i also use those big orings too. its a bit hard to install at first cause youre pretty much trying to put a round thing in a square canal. i switched back to the stock ones cause the round orings are too thick and is causing the backplate to bend outwards.
theoutlier,
can you give me the exact oring size you are using?
tia!
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regarding the bcg "issue" some say that its better to sand it down so it doesnt catch while it is retracting. but for me its better to leave it as it is cause its a sign that there is a good tight seal between the nozzle and the hop rubber thus making sure that you dont have air leaks. no air leaks means all gas is going to the barrel.
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slightly loosen those 2 screws located above the nozzle. its the part that prevents the nozzle from going all the way out of the bolt.
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the extra notches mates to the hop assembly and has nothing to do with the hop rubber.
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you wont regret it cause it is the easiest gbbr to maintain for a newbie. but you do have to dig thru all 61 pages cause there are really valuable stuff you need to know about the g39c.
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yeah i saw it over at fas, i also converted my m4 to OB. m4 performs at par with my g39c, but i will keep my g39c simply cause of the leakproof magazines.
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overfilled, over time the magazine is easier to fill. and our weather lately in the philippines is hot. try this, from empty fill it with gas for 10 secs only. see if it can finish 30 rounds. i usually fill mine for 15 secs,has enough gas to finish 30++ rounds.
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just replace the cut up oring which holds the screw in place. i suspect oil got to it and is starting to lose its "plumpness"
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removing the old cb mag kits
remove the screw on top, remove the mag lip then pull the follower out from the top, a small wiggle will let it out. the spring might shoot out so watch out for it.
putting in the new kits
remove one screw from the spring cover the top one only. with a small tool pull the spring down lift the cover then slide the new follower in. the cover is flexible and wont break even if you bend it up so no worries. by removing only one screw on the spring cover you dont have to deal with the spring trying to shoot out from the side. i can convert a mag in less than 1 min.
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does it really need a steel bolt upgrade?
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Does anyone know what size the ball bearings on the selector switch are? one of mine has just made a bid for freedom.
you know the spring guide with bearing for aegs? the bearings in them are just about the same size.
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apply heat a little longer, i assume you are old enough to know where to direct the heat.
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here is mine
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its true though, it is the least problematic gbbr so far.
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kull,
first of all the recoil is weak even on semi. i run my g39c with 134a and it kicks harder than that.
the full auto arm is bent back too much in effect it is an mm shorter in height, it might not be touching the bolt. when i put in the trigger pack on the receiver i sometimes need to pull the bolt just a little cause sometimes it hits the step on the bolt. on your vid it doesnt hit it so the arm might be too short since you bent it.
when you manually cock the hammer, halfway before the hammer locks down does the knocker stay out first? or does the knocker come in, in sync with the hammer? the knocker should be protruding and should only go in right before the hammer clicks in the cocked position.
can you also use your original trigger set not the ratech? bring it back to stock config first.
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btw dont use this
i use this
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well ive disassembled around 10 g39cs already and none melted, lol. you do have to use common sense since youre dealing with an open flame. id rather heat it up a little than force the nut and polymer body though.
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use a torch heat the nut for a few seconds then it will turn easy. also to tune the fps lower glue an oring behind the float valve.
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if you know how to solder, you can buy a tiny lipoly battery used for micro helis then solder a few plugs for it. im 100% sure it wont turn off due to recoil.
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to my undesrtandin the auto sear will trip when the bolt goes forward to battery. when the bolt goes back itll push the hammer down till the auto sear catches it. then when the bolt comes back to battery it will hit the metal extension and disengage the sear. i also use 134a sometimes and the recoil is a bit weaker rof also weaker but only a little. 134 has enough power to cycle the g36.
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glad you fixed it! i dont know why but when it happened to my m4 ob i simply drenched the trigger set with lube and it worked great.
WE M&P
in Pistols (Gas)
Posted
any review on the we m&p with full auto switch/lever? a local airsoft store told me that WE discontinued it. i wonder why?