Jump to content

hwagan

Forum guru
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    3,981

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    26

 Content Type 

Posts posted by hwagan

  2. Tokyo Marui M9A1

    in Pistols (Gas)

    Posted

    Just picked up one of these, liking it so far, gaming with it this saturday at urban and will probably stick some footage on youtube.

     

    Still getting used to the design despite owning a WA Beretta 5 or so years back. I'm faaar too used to 1911's.

     

    -

     

    Im looking to get a silencer for it, anyone else tried this?

     

    There was a member of the forums who installed a nineball adapter but he kinda mangled the barrel tip to get the friction lock to work.

     

    I've noticed there is a metal barrel/threaded adapter combination from nineball for the m9, however Im guessing from the video that the barrels are NOT interchangeable between the m9 and the new m9a1?

     

     

     

    I have noticed one issue..

     

    When used in some cordura holsters( mine for example :(. ), the slide is too easy to push back slightly, and it seems to operate the valve when pushed against the inside of the holster..

     

    I guess a stronger spring would most likely solve this..

     

    That'd be me! To be fair the outer barrel didn't need to be too badly mangled, but it was quite unsightly without the thread adaptor fitted. Basically the 9ball adaptor is a friction fit, however it jumps back half a mm or so with each shot, eventually jamming the slide - That being the case, you need to either take some material off the outer barrel to block it from moving back, or find a better way. Unfortunately due to the new design of the hopup, old style outer barrels don't work :(

     

    If you want to stop the slide from moving while holstering, simply decock the hammer and holster the pistol with your thumb on the hammer. That will stop the slide from moving rear-ward :)

     

    I'd recommend putting your thumb on the back of the slide rather than the hammer - If the slide has been cocked and the valve knocker is in the ready to fire position, exerting pressure on the hammer can open the magazine valve a little, which can result in a sore thumb. I learned this the hard way! :P

    • Like 1

  4. Magpul Picture Thread

    in Weapons

    Posted

    Also kagami, what's that thing that looks like a violently textured handstop? At the front of the 6 o'clock rail.

     

     

    I'm fairly sure it's a barricade support; Basically so you can shove the gun up against a wall/other piece of cover and it'll provide a more stable firing platform.

  5. Initial Impressions of the TM SCAR-L Recoil Shock AEG System

    in Rifles (AEG)

    Posted

    Any insight or advice would be appreciated on my current situation.

     

    When I first got my SCAR-H I installed a 318mm Prometheus 6.04 tightbore, and chronoed between 300-310fps. Last week I installed a soft Firefly bucking and a 380mm Prometheus 6.04 barrel but now my fps is 285fps. Gear box is all stock. Could I have done something wrong during the reinstallation of the barrel to cause this fps drop? My mildly educated assumption was that I should've had a gain in fps, not reduction. 

     

    Generally in an AEG, the cylinder is calculated for the volume of air required to push the BB out of a stock barrel; That being the case, adding a longer barrel without changing the cylinder can lead to something known as 'suckback' (heh). If I recall correctly, it's where the cylinder has expelled all of the compressed air into the barrel, and because the BB is still travelling it leads to a kind of vacuum effect, slowing the BB down.

     

    You can either try a bigger cylinder (I'll let an expert suggest what kind), or go back to the previous barrel. For what it's worth, longer barrel does't mean greater accuracy - Accuracy and range comes almost entirely from the hop system. Check out a TM detonics for a good example of that :P

  6. AR15 Variants and Derivitives Picture Thread

    in Weapons

    Posted

     

    I know the owner of DYTac personally. At one point DYTac had approached G&P for parts etc, but the G&P wholesale price point was so high that DYTac had to make there own parts mostly from Chinese factories to their own specs. I do know that G&P have helped DYTac with some polymer products including DYTac's new Midcaps which are similar to Troy's mags (but I like DYTac's style a little better personally). Since making their own guns, the components are mostly their own, though the designs are mostly derived from replicating what others have done. The only part I'm not clear on are the Gearboxes.

     

     

     

    KWA LM4 has an airsoft spec'ed barrel nut thread. So if you plan to use a RS rail on it, if you can't reuse the LM4 barrel nut as a proprietary barrel nut is necessary ... you can either try and force the new barrel nut onto the thread or recut the thread. Forcing the RS spec'ed barrel nut on is definitely doable, however, you run the risk of not getting the barrel nut on perfectly straight and end up with a 1 to 2° tilt on the rail (which I have seen). That's why I generally always recommend recutting the threads. If you were in the US, I'd do it for you since I do it so often. I think in the UK, CKinnerley has the necessary tools. You can try asking him.

     

     

     

    Ahh, that makes sense. I figured they'd had at least some association in the past.

     

    As for the barrel nut, I was wondering more if you'd ever fitted an R/S rail to an LM4 which utilises the stock design barrel nut - The Samson rail clamps onto a standard AR nut, but I'm not certain if the teeth and size of the barrel nut will match up to the real one to allow the rail to clamp on. Worst case scenario, I'll get myself an R/S barrel nut and fit that to the KWA Receiver, but it'd be nice if the rail would drop straight onto the stock one. 

     

    Just a side note, but most of us in PTW world who have owned Samson Evos have had the bottom rear edge of the rail milled to allow for clearance when opening the gun. I'd post a pic, but I sold my 9" Evo last year.

     

    Edit:

     

    ...just found this. You can just about see where the rail has been trimmed, aft of the pinch bolts. Just depends on the pattern of your front takedown pin hole whether this is required.

     

     

    It's an awesome rail, BTW. Still one of my favourites.

     

    I've seen nothing but positive reviews on the rail, one of the reasons I went for it - I also really like the look of it. A shame you hadn't decided to sell it 2 weeks ago, I'd have snapped it straight up! 

     

    I've also seen people discussing the lack of ability to shotgun the receivers with the Samson rail, but I'm not sure I will - Whenever I clean my LM4 I just break down both halves of the receiver entirely with both pins, although I can see it might be handy if I need to split the gun in the field. If it becomes annoying I may well grind it down, but I think for now I'll probably leave it as is.

     

    Cheers for the advice guys!

    • Like 1

  7. AR15 Variants and Derivitives Picture Thread

    in Weapons

    Posted

    The DYTac guns are more like the G&P guns than than most other manufacturer guns. There's no bolt lock function but the charging handle does pull back the false bolt plate and there's enough friction there that it'll stay in place till you're done with it. I do like the hop up setup on the DYTac guns a little more though. They come with H-nubs by default and have very decent accuracy.

     

    It wouldn't surprise me if G&P had at least something to do with the creation of the Dytacs, maybe providing the basic parts or the internals or something. Good to hear they come with H nubs though, it's a shame G&P won't get with the times and do the same thing. For such an easy and simple internal change that'd cost manufacturers essentially nothing, an H-nub does an awful lot for accuracy. 

     

    On another note, I figured you might be the person to ask - Any ideas if the KWA LM4's barrel nut matches the profile of an R/S barrel nut when it comes to the teeth? I'm ordering a Samson 9" Evo rail tomorrow, and I'm wondering if I'll need a new barrel nut for it..

  12. KJW M4

    in Rifles (Gas)

    Posted

    My money is on the people selling them are COD fans who didn't expect the realities of owning a gas gun. Well, not necessarily just COD, but the general 'I want a Vector, and this is the only one I can buy, so I'll buy it... Why can't I blast off whole mags in 2.5 seconds without my eyebrows becoming frozen? FOR SALE.' types.

  14. Pictures of you in the field or at a game

    in Game & Events

    Posted

    He's looking the wrong way if he is planning a 'tactical entry' from that angle :P.

     

    Might also have a few of me up after this Sunday at a game (shortest time of three weeks between games in a while for me ;)).

     

    'FireKnife'

     

     

    I was providing cover and other such tactical things, obviously :P

     

    Pics from today.

     

     

     

    I do believe I will have nightmares thanks to your mask. Job well done, I'd say.

  20. AR15 Variants and Derivitives Picture Thread

    in Weapons

    Posted

    Show me your blown up image in PS mate and tell me where the notch is, I do quiet alot of image work and I can tell you that there is no way there are enough pixels to discern the notch from that image. The gun is painted, worn and dirty and the shadow on the selector side is too soft so there are no crisp shadows cast... Come on... I checked it in PS under various conditions and channels of varying spectrums and no, just no. Show me the solid proof and I will back down.

     

     

    Who the *fruitcage* even cares? We're airsofters, seriously, who on earth gives a *suitcase* if some bossman actual operator has trigger discipline or not?

    • Like 1

  24. KWA LM4 PTR GBB

    in Rifles (Gas)

    Posted

    DW Valve will drop you to low 300's, the best free method is to cut the rocket valve spring. 1-1.5 loops should do the trick.

     

    Also just cut the RA-Tech barrel, its super simple and if you have no tools will cost you about $8 or so for the cutter and piece to crown it.

     

     

    I'd like to go for around 350 on a hot day ideally - I'll give cutting the valve spring a go once I get my TB and Chrono in, that definitely sounds like the easiest way! Thanks for the tip man.

     

    As for barrel cutting, I use a hacksaw and my K-bar to scrape the burrs out - I've used this method on many AEG barrels, my WOC barrel and now my LM4 barrel. The end of the inner looks like utter , but the lack of a crown has never had the slightest effect on accuracy in any gun I've had. I won't go and say a properly crowned barrel is a bad thing, but in all my experience as long as it's cut square and the burring on the inside of the barrel is removed it's always been fine..

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.

  I accept