vilerk
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Posts posted by vilerk
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I don't know if I like it yet..
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Just got this in the mail today.
Here's its packaging, a nondescript, cheap box.
And even worse, a severe amount of under-packaging.
Voila!
First impressions, the anodizing is really a step up over their previous URX II line. The anodizing is no longer a thin, sparkly black, but like in the pictures, it's a nice and thick flat black. Definitely not real type 3 hard anodizing like on an AR, but the finish is still better than on most aluminum airsoft products. Due to the poor packaging, there were a few edges that were worn silver, but they aren't very noticeable.
It comes with the rail itself, 2 mounting screws, and the barrel nut, which is aluminum.
Barrel nut:
Also, unlike their URX II, this one actually has the locking mechanism for the bottom rail, and surprisingly, it's made of steel!
However, the flip up sight is the same affair as with the URX II, it's very wobbly. The locking mech has a strong spring, and the front sight post is easily adjusted, but the sight itself wobbles back and forth about 1 cm and laterally about 4mm. It's best to leave it flipped down.
The markings themselves are laser engraved, and done decently, except for one part. Can you spot it?
(Hint: The 3)
The rail also has an integrated heatshield, which is riveted in. No markings here, oh well. I'm pretty sure my previous 5KU URX II had at least an arrow. At least it doesn't wobble.
I also bought 5KU's stainless steel tool:
Looks pretty crappy(partly due to the flash), but it works and fits the barrel nut well.
And now for probably the most important part, the threading. It seems to be Marui, metric threading, as it threads on fine on my Hurricane SR47 and JG uppers, but only threads halfway onto my 1st gen G&P WOC upper. GBBR/PTW folks should probably go with Dytac.
The threading after 1 installation:
As for top rail height, here it is mounted to my Hurricane receiver, almost an exact half mm gap. On the JG upper, the URX's rail was almost 1mm too low.
Overall, it's it's a really nice rail for the price, almost on part with Madbull quality, if not the same. I'll update if any quirks pop up during installation. Otherwise, if you have any questions, let me know. -
If you get the Guarder alu. slide, I'd recommend not getting the Guarder slide stops, as mine caused my steel G19 slide's slide stop notch to wear at an angle; Guarder slide stops are of a much harder steel than TM/WE/KJW.
On another note, finally got my G19 to have a realistic trigger position.
Here's how:
The red outline is the original trigger bar stop position. I used some sheet steel from an ACM AR dust cover and bent it to shape, then CA'ed it and reinforced the gaps with epoxy.
Feels nice.
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Nice but technically it should be in the 1911 thread, Para Ordnance is a Wide Body 1911 Frame, not a Polymer/Steel Hybrid 2011.
I've always thought that 2011=double stack, but looks like I'm wrong. Thanks for the correction.
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It's actually a KJW P14 frame, so it's already WA system. All that was done to get it completely WA compatible was to replace the KJW valve lock assembly with the WA part.
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WIP WA/KJW Infinity
Pretty much all WA parts except for the KJW frame and metal slide. Need to get grip screws and a new hammer, otherwise it shoots decently with a snappy kick. -
Are you using the Guarder steel frame rails? Before switching to the steel frame rails, my serial plate fit correctly. Though I don't mind it now, I actually like it recessed.
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Indeed it is..
I couldn't source a TM hammer housing, so the WE was next in line in quality and availability. Though the WE trigger feels much better than its ABS TM, KJW, Army counterparts. Better color, texture, and less flexing, so why not? -
Finished my KJW/Guarder G19..
Added a WE G27 hammer housing, the trigger locks back on these now, and also a WE trigger.
I hope WE releases the above grip extensions separately, they're made of good plastic and work great in this setup. -
Yeesh, by the time I try to figure out how to order from the KIC website, it'll be out of stock.
Don't worry, all you need to do is just email them, and they should respond pretty quickly, they have great CS.
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Real steel Glock base plates are indeed compatible. They are a drop in, but tighter fit than the original. The indexing holes on the Glock base plates are a little smaller than the Stark, so the base plate locking tabs on the Stark mags will require a manual push to get it seated in all the way. -
The Guarder steel frame for KJWs is out, so far only on Evike that I've seen. http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=41122
I ordered it today, should come by next week. -
Yes, so far I've tried them with KJW, WE, and TM Glocks, and they worked fine(with the appropriate shaped seal of course), though depending on which model you are using, the output seal might need a shim to raise it up.
Also, interesting fact, looks like these magazines are modeled after 6th gen Glock mags.
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I have some base plates coming in the mail, should come in next week.
Also, switched out the curved seals with WE flat seals with no problems, and the curved seals work fine in WE magazines in conjunction with WE nozzles with curved input windows. -
Got a pic from my friend:
Yep, flat seals definitely work better with the flat windowed nozzle. Since my friend's WE G17 has a the curved window nozzle, I'm going to trade my Stark curved seals with his WE flat seals. Hopefully it should work fine. -
Wow, that RS base plate compatibility is just the best. However that milled out Glock trade on the back bothers me
Could you happen to get any pics of the mag in a Glock with RS plates attached (say stock, Vickers, Magpul Speedplates, anything)?
I'll try to get a base plate from a friend to take a pic. I also took some measurements. The SA mag measures 24.5mm wide for the baseplate slots, while my KJW mag measures 22.5mm.
Snoopy:
I actually found WE G17 mags to have both flat and curved seals, after looking at my friend's mags. His WE G17 also had a nozzle with the curved window, while my WE G19 nozzle has a flat window.
Interesting that Guarder makes two types of nozzles, the second type with the rocket valve looks exactly like my KJW nozzle assembly, casting marks and all.
I'll try replacing the Stark mag's seal with a flat type to see if there's any improvement.
EDIT: I switched the seal of the Stark mag with a KJW flat seal. Compared to the other Stark mags, it gave a slightly better kick.
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I ordered 3 of these magazines from WGCShop, and they arrived in exactly two weeks.
The magazines come in fairly nice cardboard packaging. It's labeled all over with their company name, website, "Made in Taiwan", etc.. There's also a box full of warnings on one side.
The magazines were packed in the box with an ample amount of bubble wrap, so there are no worries about shipping damage.
Here are all 3 magazines out of the box. There were no imperfections whatsoever on the mags. My initial impressions of the magazines are so far positive. One thing I noticed out of the box was that they are actually anodized.
This means the mags are actually made of aluminum, and not pot metal like KJW or WE mags. +1 for Stark Arms right there.
The feedlips are made very well, with no molding flash or seam lines. The plastic seems to be durable, and more solid than those on my KJW G23 magazine. The chipping on the left corner is from shooting about 50 shots with my gun, but I don't really see it as a problem. The feedlips are not too tight or too loose when loading/extracting a BB, and they do not have any issues feeding, but it's still best to load the mags through the slot in the follower channel. The gas route buckings on these mags are made of a firm rubber, and look like they will hold up for a very long time. One thing to note is that they have a semi-circular shape, unlike KJW G23 mags, and maybe WE G19 mags, which use a flat gas route bucking along with a reshaped nozzle to accommodate that. But these mags work fine in my KJW G19 with a WE nozzle, which has the flat sealing surface. No gas spurts out the ejection port, so that means the nozzle and mag are still making a good seal.
Unlike the mags shown on WGC, all 3 of my mags have Austria markings, and milled out Glock markings. If you look by the output valve, you can see what would've been 9mm markings there. Props to SA for having such attention to detail, not to mention all the engraved bullet indicators. All of the engraving on the magazines is done crisply and cleanly, which is impressive for a $19 magazine.. Also, the valve button is magnetic, I believe it is some type of hardened steel.
Probably one of the best features of the Stark magazines is that they are compatible with real steel base plates. They cannot fit TM or KSC base plates as the mag's slots are too wide. Though the stock base plates are fine, they are very similar in look and feel to RS Glock ones. The base plate can be slid off by pulling up a tab in the follower channel, similar to KSC magazines. The fill valve is a silent fill type, and they do not leak on all of my magazines. The exposed slot for the fill valve is a bit too large IMO, dirt is guaranteed to get in the fill valve if the mag is dropped on its bottom. The mag's bottom seal assembly is secured by 2 pins, unlike TM mags which use a screw. This allows the mag to have a larger gas capacity, but I think this gives the mag a greater chance of leaking if it is dropped/damaged/etc.. But as of now, all 3 mags do not leak at all using propane. It's also less realistic, but I doubt anyone would notice.
Now on to performance. I gassed the mags OOTB with propane, without any lubrication added. The temperature was 70°F. I used my upgraded KJW G19, which has a Guarder steel slide, outer barrel, night sights, and %150 recoil spring. In 1-second intervals, I was able to shoot an average of 40 shots with each mag before the gun stopped locking back. Not too bad I think compared to my KJW mags, which only get around 25 good shots. Keep in mind that KJW mags actually cost more than the Stark mags. I don't have a chrono, so I cannot measure FPS ATM.
As for compatibility, I've tried these mags in a KJW G23 frame, a Guarder G19/23 frame, and a WE G17 frame, and they fit fine, with very little to no wobble. However, when using the mags with the WE, recoil is reduced, but gun is still able to shoot fine and lock back. After some examination, it looks like the mag just needs a shim under the GRB to get it shooting better. They work fine on my G19 though, giving it a hard and snappy recoil.
So all in all, would I recommend these mags? My answer is a firm "yes". Probably the best bang for the buck out there for GBB mags.
That's it for my review, I will update it later on if necessary. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask. I hope the review wasn't too boring!
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Got 3 Stark Arms mags in the mail today.. Going to make a review on them since they're excellent.
Also installed Guarder night sights and a GM V2 zero hammer. After about 150 cycles, it's pretty much broken in.
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Nice. Once I get back from school I am also going to cut the grooves off mine. Probably stipple too.
If you are using the ARMY housing, make sure to not use ARMY internals as they have bad tolerances and really weak metal.
Thanks. I'm actually using the ARMY sear temporarily as I had an AIP steel sear before, but it was modified to work with a KJW G23 hammer housing, and using it with the G17 hammer housing caused the sear engagement timing to be off..
KJW sears do not work, unfortunately, the tab the trigger lever engages is much too thin. Looks like I'm going to have to buy another AIP steel set just for the sear... Want to keep all steel since I have a V2 GM zero hammer coming in.
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KJW/Guarder G19
Went over the trigger with a sharpening stone to get it matte.
Dremmeled off the finger grooves and did a trigger guard undercut.
Added a Grip Force SC grip adapter, a drop in fit.
Installed an Army G17 hammer housing, now the trigger locks back as it should.
Installed a WE G19 BBU assembly, took some filing in the front, otherwise it fit snugly. The nozzle is indeed a bigger diameter compared to WE/TM G17s, and it does give a bit more kick. Though it's longer by about 2-3mm, so it causes the slide to look out of battery, but it still works fine. Just need a few more parts and this will be fully fieldable..
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Do you mind doing a magnet test to the disconnector? Thanks!
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Anyone try out the disconnector made by Action? The disconnector broke for the second time on my MP9, so I'm wondering whether I should get another KWA replacement or try out the Action. From the pictures, it almost looks like steel, but then it also looks like the pot metal WE uses..
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Whats the option for upgrading KJW G23's hop-up and inner barrel? Its a TM G26 clone and it doesn't fit with the Hop-up design that came after the G26. I figure there are rubber made for it, but what about inner barrel thats longer than G26 length?
They take VSR rubbers, but VSR barrels need filing to fit.
EDIT: Saw your most recent post, Racingmaniac, that's weird. I fit a Nineball rubber to mine with no problems.
5KU URX III 12.5" Review(PICS)
in Tactical Equipment and Accessories
Posted
Minor update: Got to skirmish it a week back at Ford Ord in CA. Rail held up fine after numerous collisions with walls, cover, etc., save for some cosmetic damage. The barrel nut loosened a tiny bit, causing the barrel to wobble slightly(<1mm diameter), but that's probably my fault for not tightening it hard enough initially.
This happened when I hand-tightened the nut:
So lesson here is to go with Dytac, not 5KU for the wrench.
As for the rail itself, the finish held up well, except for places where it was banged against a rocky surface:
So I guess the rail is made of some pretty soft aluminum compared to 6061/7075 stuff.