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Posts posted by mimesis

  1. Yes, on the old site, you clicked on unread posts, and then clicking somewhere (I forget where exactly, it was second nature), it took you to the oldest of the unread posts, if there were several of them.

    That's what I'm trying to figure out again.  A thread has several posts that I haven't read.  It makes sense to read them in chronological order, starting with the oldest (least recent) of them.

    On the new forum, I haven't figured out a way to go directly to that oldest unread post.  I can either go to the start of the thread, sometimes from years ago, or I can go to the most recent post, but then I have to backtrack to find the start of the unread conversation.




  2. Not entirely satisfied with the framework on this bad boy, first time testing doing borders... Have a new frame incoming :)





    What tool did you use to create the impressions?  The dimples look (a) too close together and (B) too shallow. 

  3. The Veteran I got years ago was the most accurate AEG out of the box that I've ever had.  And I've had a few AEGs over the years...


    Also: I found that I could install a bunch of RS parts/accessories that I sourced from Fulton Armory, starting with the plasticky cover that goes over the forearm.

  4. Certainly the force of the hammer spring (and its design, as again explored in that video review) has an effect.  But my point is this.  The plate behind the BBU is vertical.  The hammer does not sit vertically, but rather slightly angled back from the vertical.  Therefore, when you go to rack the slide, the part of the hammer that the plate engages with is only 1 mm or so above the pivot point of the hammer.  The basic physics of "moments" applies.  If the plate engaged with the top of the hammer (several mm higher) it would be easier to push back--this is what it feels like if you take off the slide and push on the hammer with your finger. (Imagine trying to push the hammer back by pressing on it at its base with the tip of a screwdriver.)

  5. I'm referring to the hunk of silvery metal referred to here as 03-21.  Much bigger than the equivalent piece on, say, Glocks.  When uncocked, the front face of 03-21 sits at an angle slightly back from perpendicular.  So when you rack the slide, the plate 01-21 (on the back of the BBU) engages first with the lowest part of the face, which is closest to its axis point.  This is why the slide has a lot of resistance in battery when you first go to rack it.  Also, when the slide is returning to battery, the plate 01-21 is spring-loaded to flap upwards to allow it to pass over 03-21 on its way back.  If memory serves, the guy explains all this in the video in #54.  Although that reviewer really doesn't like it, I'm not saying it's bad, just idiosyncratic.



  6. If you're serious about it, it's definitely worth watching the review linked in post #54 all the way through.


    You may dismiss some of his criticisms, but he gives a good description of the strange design of the striker and how it interacts with the plate (that flaps) which cocks it when racking the slide.

  7. Here it is: http://airsoftshop.cz/product_info.php/cPath/385_389/products_id/14797


    I think it will open in Czech, but you can change to English. Nevertheless the text is usual ######... the pics are important



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    Many thanks!  Googling that precise name brings up 8 results, all sites that end in .cz  Perhaps GG is waiting for the 100th anniv. version to sell out in other countries before they distribute there.

  8. Leave it stock. Take an extra half second to slow down right before the mag goes into the gun to ensure it's aligned and insert it correctly. There's enough size difference between Airsoft and RS Glocks that replica magwells usually don't work. Also keep in mind most RS/Airsoft magwells are designed to be installed and then the firearm frame is blended into the magwell. If you're not blending the frame into the magwell you're basically making a slightly bigger funnel that reduces the likelihood you miss the opening but smoothness of insertion won't be that much better.


    Practice reloads during dry fire at home. I regularly will put on my comp belt rig with 5 mags in the pouches and practice speed reloads. Do 20-40 sets of that and you will have 100-200 reload reps. You will see it pay dividends at the range. You need a software fix more so than a hardware fix. My 2 cents.


    Also (and I know you said you don't carry), magwells suck for CCW.


    Any mileage in the Dawson magwell insert?

  9. As far as I know it's quite new, we have it about a month here in Czech. It's called 110th Anniversary Edition from Cybg. Trades are (contrary to 100th Annivers.) engraved and quite deep. Overall the pistol looks much, much better than the older model, but function is the same with very low upgrade potential.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    Thanks.  That explains it.  It looks more like the Inokatsu than the 100th anniv. edition.  But I've been googling around, and don't find it for sale anywhere, really.  Must be a slow rollout.

  10. Piccy pic!




    I can confirm that getting the slide back on the gray model is more difficult than on my original one.


    Looking at it real quick it appears that the alignment/angle of the slide lock lever is off. 


    So to get it working properly when putting the slide back on it should be rotated to 85-87-ish degrees rather than a straight 90 and it works a lot better :D


    I think the gray one is based on the first release Euro models and maybe this was a design flaw that they fixed in the Asia black editions later on in the production.


    I don't think the alignment/angle is so much the problem, as the tiny spring that connects the outer barrel to the inner barrel+hop-up chamber.


    The spring has the effect of pulling the hop-up chamber forward, which then blocks the rotation of the cam controlled by the take-down lever.


    Pushing the inner barrel back with your pinky finger while rotating the lever resolves the problem.

  11. P.S.  I finally watched all the way through the video linked in post #54, which is very illuminating.  Among other things, he addresses the strange design of the striker/hammer, the plate that it engages with (which in fact flaps, needing to flap up as the slide returns to battery to allow the topmost part of the striker to pass underneath it).  At another point he also shows the internal design of the mechanism that controls the striker, and how stiff it is.  However, for him, this apparently results in a heavy trigger pull, rather than impacting the racking.  Definitely worth a view for its critique of the overall design.  I'd been tempted to get a Dark Duke or Taitan slide, but am now completely dissuaded.

  12. Perhaps I made my last post overly complicated.  Also, the two issues are entirely unrelated.


    To recap: if the take-down lever won't return to the locked position when reinstalling the slide on the frame, push the tip of the inner barrel in with your finger or another suitable object.


    And on the VP9 grey model that I got, the hammer/striker has a very stiff spring installed as standard, which makes the initial part of the racking motion more effortful than you find with almost all GBB pistols (unless ferocious after-market springs have been installed).


    Question: yes, the hammer/striker is depressed when the slide is racked in preparation for slide removal.  Likewise, if you've dry-fired the frame while the slide is off, you can depress it with your finger or else it will again be depressed when the slide is put back on.


    My point was this.  When racking the slide, the hammer/striker is rotated backwards and downwards by that vertical plate behind the BBU.  That plate will engage the hammer/striker very near its pivot point, and while I don't know much about physics, trying to move something with strong spring resistance very close to its point of rotation will not be entirely easy.


    Again, I'm assuming that on earlier iterations of the PPQ and even on other examples of the new grey-frame model, the racking motion wasn't noticeably different from other GBB pistols.  So I may be dealing with an anomaly.

  13. Getting the slide back on the frame.  (With some comments on the stiff racking motion.)


    I risked taking the slide off, and this time I could not--initially--get it back on for love nor money.


    While it was off, I looked at the striker (hammer) again.  It's larger than on most striker-fired pistols, and engages with a vertical place inserted in the slide just to the rear of the BBU.  But what is most remarkable is that it's fitted with an extremely stiff spring (at least mine is), so that you really notice it when pushing the striker down with your thumb.  When you push it down by pulling back on the slide (and hence pulling that vertical plate back against it) there's a lot of resistance until it starts to rotate rearward and downward.  I don't know if this spring is typical of all the production.


    Anyway, back to the slide.  I took the barrel assembly out and found the tiny spring on the underside of the outer barrel/hop-up chamber that attaches one to the other.  With tweezers I uncoupled them, allowing me to remove the inner barrel+hop-up chamber from the outer barrel.


    The hop-up chamber has a "leg" on its underside that creates a slot that fits over a cross-member that is part of the metal inner frame assembly.  The slide is on the pistol, this has the effect of coupling the hop-up chamber to the frame so that it absolutely cannot move.  The outer barrel then "floats" on the inner barrel+chamber attached and controlled by that tiny spring, allowing for its motion when the slide is racked.


    And so to the solution.  When you reinstall the slide on the frame, that tiny spring is conspiring to pull the hop-up chamber forward.  But the semi-circular locking cam inside the frame that is controlled by the take-down lever needs to rotate into the space immediately in front of the chamber, and if the chamber is being pulled forward, it will block the motion of the cam, leading to swear words and frustration.


    So the solution--so simple!--is this.  When you've slid on the slide and locked it back, aligning the cut-out on the side of the slide with the take-down lever, you poke your little (aka pinky) finger inside the muzzle of the outer barrel and push the inner barrel back a little.  This of course has the effect of pushing the hop-up chamber back, which allows the take-down lever to rotate freely into the locked position.  Et viola!


    Thought it was worth recording this...


    Currently--brand new--when attempting to rack, slide in battery sometimes puts up a lot of resistance, and then finally releases and racks OK.  But it already seems to be getting smoother.



    It's the large silver hammer/striker unit that's putting up a good deal of resistance.  If you do a second rack without firing, there's minimal resistance.  When you rack after firing, there's a good deal of stubbornness to get it to move from battery; once the striker is in the "down" position, the rest of the rack travel/movement is perfectly smooth.

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