The Bushman
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Posts posted by The Bushman
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nice pictures everybody.
here are some recent ones...
Good Hunting
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I painted this in watercolour and then added some digital magic, to turn it into a desktop.
Good Hunting
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probably too late to answer your question, from the linked review:
"Hop up is compatible with TM VSR-10 buckings and barrels. This makes upgrading easier than other rifles (Tanaka, for example)"
so just use VSR barrels
I think they won't fit unless you modify it with a groove around the barrel outer to seat it in the hop unit. I could be wrong and not the same on the modern KJW model.
Good Hunting
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Tanaka users stand and be counted
Great review ,worthy of praise , tbh i love the LTR more and so does bitchtits now
Thanks. I think the LTR gets a 10 out of 10 too
I just think the m40a1 comb and narrow forearm are more ergonomic (at least for me). Plus the LTR requires some milling work to fit a 555mm inner barrel (runs into a silencer) for the vsr hop conversion; while the m40a1 is a drop in solution.Dodge and Chauf both own LTR, so I've been on the recieving end
Good Hunting
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FPS?
Please watch the video's I made/linked.
Basicly, this is the long out of production PCS version. PCS = Power Control System. This allowed you to decrease and slightly increase the power, compared to the non PCS versions you get now.
FPS is dependant on gas used, temperature, hammer spring used and at what tension.
You can decrease the power on th modern non PCS version if you are worried it will be too powerful for your application. Use 134a gas instead of green to knock it down for low power sites.
Good Hunting
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I just noticed there was no review here for my favourite rifle; the TANAKA WORKS m40a1.
It is a NBB gas rifle that uses the same reciever as the other m700 based tanaka rifles (AICS, LTR, M24). Only barrel length and furniture really seperates these rifles.
Rather than waffle on; I'll post videos I made of the rifle in action and a video review....
(note this has now been laser ranged at 76m.)I would like to think that is comprehensive review and explains why tanaka rifles are worth buying. OK this is a PCS version, running at full power so too hot for typical UK sites, but even the modern non PCS version can be adjusted by opening the bolt up and reducing tension on the hammer spring. (watch you unlock the grub screw when doing this).
Despite owning a co2 COLD SHOT I prefer using green gas just as I don't like remote lines etc. Green gas is very very user/gaming friendly and as long as it's not too cold or you don't attempt to fire sustained rapid; you won't have a problem. Just be sure to clean the silicone out of the barrel/hop carefully.
The magazines are expensive considering their 11 shot capacity but if you ask me, that just makes you hold your fire more (which is a good thing). You may struggle when spotted and up against AEG users in an exchange but I suggest it encourages you to reposition (which is a good thing). The impact plates do wear out after a while and I recommend the G&G powerpack magazine parts. I never bothered fitting the extra hammer spring, as it is powerful and consistant enough for me. My standard hammer (valve knocker) did bend after a year or so.
Other tips; do not hold the rifle under the magazine when firing, as it causes inconsistancy. The extended magazines are reported to have some consistancy issues compared to the 11 shot version. The 11 shot version has good gas capacity (enough for 3+ mags in summer).
The m40a1 is almost as light as the Light Tactical Rifle (LTR) only 40g in it but has a more ergononmic and practical stock IMO. I really like the cheek comb and find it better than the m700, M24, LTR stocks IMO. Being plastic is fine for people who intend to use their rifle rather than cuddle it. It encourages you to cover it up (ie camo) and not worry about scratching your woodwork. Fitting a bipod to the stud is fine and very practical for accurate zero of the rifle.
This rifle is a firm favourite and better than my old APS2 MK2 SPORTER. I would buy another one of these put it that way, despite the problems that gas will always have compared to spring. Be sure to fit the VSR hop conversion kit and don't put a firefly VSR hard rubber in it (I tried). The Nineball purple airseal rubber works really well. Best barrel choice is always a debate and all I will say is the PDI 6.05mm 554mm is great and do not want to replace it.
here are some pic's of it...
10 out of 10. Cheapest tanaka rifle and somewhat overlooked because it has plastic furniture. Don't follow the crowd and buy this instead. You will NOT regret it.
Good Hunting
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Here are some paintings I did, not sure if I have posted these ones before...
and
Good Hunting
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Here is some Art I did...
I use them as covers for films. Maybe you could call this being "
"Good Hunting
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TM M14 with advantage fabric tape and KING ARMS V2 scope rail. The scope is a 1.5-5X20 Whitetail classic night view compact. The sniper bra at the top has 2 X70 mags in it and a G&P 160 is in the gun = 300 shots.
View through the amazing wide angle scope on 1.5 mag (yep that is the front post you can see).
Good Spotter rifle
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3 of the elusive snipers at the recent 5 day AIRSOFT SNIPER SKOOL (i'm the one in the middle.)
Ghillie suit is a cheap 30 pound concealment vest (more like a cloak or cape) and covered with green elastic loops to stiff full of foliage. Can take a while to fill it, but worth the effort and not encumbering or too hot either.
I made top scorer and was the only sniper to avoid being shot (only had 2 shots fired at me from a shotgun). 2 sniper teams bumped into each other while evading a contact minutes earlier. Me and my partner both hit him pretty much simultaniously with our G-SPECS... LOL!
G SPEC and concealment vest = silent and invisible hunter of the playing field.
Happy Hunting
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Cheers guys. I will have to have another go soon. May even produce a series of Desktops, if I can get my hands on a better digi cam. To be honest most of my Artistic Airsoft is now going into the many full length DVD's that I produce.
If you are interested then look here for details of the best films:
You would not be dissappointed. I use the paintings as covers for the films. This new painting will do fine for the cover of the film that I am going to make next week on our 5 day SNIPER event.
Off to pack some of my kit now.....
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Well you have inspired me to pick up my brush again (it's been a while) so last night I set to work on some paper....... I used 2 photos of my buddies and put them together intoa sketch, then drew the surroundings of a locatiopn on our site, from memory.
Liked it so got water colours out this afternoon and took a pic with my naf quality digi cam... here it is........
it is entitled............ "He's down there somewhere!"
Enjoy. Will put all of my Airsoft paintings on here again soon.........
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A painting I did of a 2 day game in tough wet winter conditions (2003) from one dense pine thicket to another.
I used an APS MK2. Our team won 13 points to 3 (of which I scored 9!) Anyway, the picture is watercolour and kids crayons (for the trees!) Yep, I'm the guy with the APS...... (the spotter is giving the thumbs up to move in)
Hope you like...
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well interesting, but it is all on paper, isn't it?
I am going to sort this out once and for all this summer!
I have a high quality CHRONO and access to a sheltered shooting range with unlimited distance. Once I get some 0.25g (need some for pending VSR) then I will fire my different guns (got plenty) at the chrono from all different ranges (in a prone braced position and record the amount of hits (shots logged) and the velocity.
Then I will be able to corelate the data on a similar table, to that in the article. Will not be able to record time taken though, although the data from the chrono will help establish this (fps).
Personally, I have always favoured the 0.20g over the heavy 0.25g just because the trajectory is flatter for longer. (personally I often set my HOP high and like the pellet to lift up before it drops off, as we often fire at extreme range here.) I find the 0.25g are great at penetrating cover, while 0.20g can be deflected easily.
This high hop setting can slow the pellets down and they float at the end of their flight.
But hey, I maybe proven wrong........
Will report back when the testing is complete........ will also look at APS ammo (I have 0.30g MARUZEN and 0.36g STRAIGHT) and the new TM AEP GLOCK18C with 0.20g will prove interesting due to it's low power (I think this will suprise many of you.)
This particular gun will prove very interesting next to a high end sniper rifle and full size AEG's. Also comparing a short barrel with a long barrelled AEG (Spetznaz vs SUPERMAS)
(just remembered) We have a stockpile of EXCEL 0.23g ammo and will be testing these alongside the TM 0.20g and 0.25g. These mid weights are not widely used but have proven popular with some ultra short AEG barrel users (MP5K and PDW).
I'll try to get together as many different Airsoft guns as possible and make a massive table to be able to compare the results.
Have access to these toys so far:
electrics....
TM CAR 15
TM MP5 PDW
TM BETA SPETZ
TM SUPERMAS
TM FAMAS (non Hop, bought in '91)
pistols....
TM 1911A1 spring hop pistol
TM AEP GLOCK 18C
TM Hard Kick DE GBB
TM M92f BERRETTA GBB
shotties....
TM SPAS 12 shotgun
Maruzen cutdown shotgun (cannot remember name)
ITHACA M37 shotgun
sniper rifles....
Maruzen APS2 MK2 SPORTER
TM VSR 10 Gspec
So 4 different categories. Will probably fire 5 rounds with each gun at each range. Repeating for each pellet weight. Noting amount of hits on a target just behind the chrono (Target size will be approx chest size, will measure it for test.)
Ranges fired from 5m, 10m, 15m, 20m, 25m, 30m, 35m, 40m, 45m, 50m, 55m, 60m. Weather conditions will be noted too. Looking forward to a whole weekend at the range now........ will be in AUGUST '05 when I do this.
I'll try and make some videos while I'm there to show the test area (with windsock) to provide evidence for my findings.
Interesting for us all to finally see the answer to the riddle?
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Thanks
Here are a couple of the MK2 in action...
pop up and shoot.......
on the target range.....
In winter ghillie and gun sock....
up and moving round the flank....... like normal..........
thats enough for now...
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Back now........
Here are the pic's, as promised:
The plain brown box, has these markings at one end. Nothing flashy, but the name of the gun says it all....
Here is my APS2MK2 with ghillie barrel drape, dust cover for cylinder hatch and high mounted 3-9X40WA scope
Here we see (an inverted view) where the 2 bolts are located that hold the furniture onto the mechansim.
This view is into the mag well (with mag removed) and with the bolt in the rear position. The small black hole is where the HOP adjuster tool is inserted to zero the pellets flight trajectory (HOP).
A close up of the butt made from a tough rubber. Wear and slight scratching is apparrant on the woodwork in places. This is testimony to this guns hard field test. It has served well in plenty of 2 day games, over 4 years.
Showing how the bolt clears the woodwork, when in the rear position.
The old style trigger guard, showing how the finish on the metal has deteriorated, revealing the flash of silver (not so good for sniping!) This now comes in matt black.
The working end of the MK2; the muzzle which offers limited protection only to the inner barrel. You can see how my muzzle is badly scratched from all this guns mileage off the beaten track. Take care to keep the barrel clear of the mud or you will not be using the rifle with much accuracy until you strip the gun.
Hope these help you....... will dig out some more pic's (including the green stained stock).
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Good review, any more pictures, other than that in the link?
tell you what? I'll go and take some know!
Back soon....
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REVIEW OF
MARUZEN APS2 MK2 SPORTER "KING OF FIELD"
This APS2 MK2 was released after the OR and SV models but way before the L96 that is so common nowadays.
This MARUZEN bolt action sniper rifle is amongst the cream of all sniper rifles and perhaps the most expensive selling in the UK for over 400 pounds! Well, compared to other APS2 variants (other than the L96) that is a big step up. All of the money has gone into refining this great sniping system into everything you want it to be.
The box is small (half the length of the assembled gun) and is plain brown cardboard. However, a sticker on the front shows the gun silhouette and the words "KING OF FIELD." Inside you get the gun broken down with the magazine and loading rod. You also recieve the APS2 instructions with an additional sheet for data on the MK2 SPORTER variant.
STOCK
Well the stock is amazingly well shaped and a joy to handle. The woodwork is of excellent quality and comes with a very thin lacquer finish. This soon rubs off in your hands and leaves the wood open to moisture. I used a DUTCH POLISH designed for Air Rifle stocks to protect the precious wood once again. Just 1 coating has lasted 2 years.
A team mate stripped the protective layer from his MK2 stock and sanded the whole thing down with fine glass paper. Then, he stained the whole woodwork green, to get a completely original APS.
The Stock length is fine, with a comfortable cheek comb and the best part of all; the thumb over grip. This gun beats the L96 in my eyes purely because the thumb over grip feels more natural than the pistol grip that makes the L96 feel more like an assault rifle.
The front of the Stock is very wide and feels more like conventional clay pigeon shotgun woodwork. Indeed, the MK2 is very large, although from grip to butt, it is a perfect length. The magazine well, sits in the bottom of the foreword woodwork and allows the magazine to seat almost flush to the guns exterior. However, it is lacking the finger recesses of the APS2 SNIPER VERSION and sometimes (like all APS2 systems) the magazine can jam and be a pain to remove. This will be discussed later.
The trigger guard is attached permanently to the woodwork and on my own version was the original blued finish. However, on the later APS2 MK2 the trigger guard was just finished in a dull black effect. This is not as good as the originals, but the blued finish is now being worn (after 4 years of being dragged around the local gullies and hills), leaving a shiny silver metal underneath. This is no good for a sniper (as it can attract attention) so the move to a more hard wearing black finish is justified by MARUZEN.
The butt has no adjustment (which some might hope for such an expensive package) but to be honest, it doesn’t need it. The firing position is perfect anyway, at least for me (lol). The butt plate is made of a high impact rubber and screwed on through recesses in the flat end. The gun comes with no swivels but is drilled for their easy fitting if required.
The stock is great and where most of the extra money goes. The balance is perfect and the weight is not excessive (2500g of complete gun) when compared to some of the 3.5-6kg sniper rifles on the market.
BOLT
Well the APS2 action is similar on the APS2 Sniper Version, regular snipers will soon get to grips with this version. Firstly and most obvious is the bolt handle. This is an amazing shaped handle and natural to use. Makes the horrible CA M24 action seam so cheap. This bolt handle is better positioned than the angled monster on the APS2 Sniper Version. You just flip it up and it extends at a right angle to the gun and ever so smoothly pull it back till it stops (around a 6 inch pull?) then cycle it foreword and back down to activate the trigger. While the bolt is up or back, the gun will not fire. This is great to stop damage to the internals if such a situation occurred. This cocking handle is a joy to use, however increases your rate of fire no end compared to many other rifles on the market. I have fired around 4000 rounds through my APS over 4 years with 500fps (for 1 season) and 320fps (110% PSS2 spring) in ever since. The cocking handle is solid and shows no sign of wear.
TRIGGER
The MK2 has a typical APS trigger mechanism, however, the trigger is slightly different. None of the standard APS systems have adjustable triggers but this one doesn’t need one. The different trigger cast allows for a very sensitive trigger that may take the owner a little while to get used to (it goes off that easily when you start to squeeze the trigger) dependant on what spring is fitted. M16 owners will find it alien to have no trigger travel, but you do get used to it. The more powerful the spring, the harder it gets to pull the trigger. Overall this trigger is a joy to use.
CHASSIS
The mechanism of the gun is all a dulled black, which has proven durable. The typical APS2 safety is fitted as per the normal gun. Further forward the cylinder can be seen through the body work. This is fine, but proves to be an easy entry area for dirt when crawling around the woods (like snipers do). Also the cylinder is highly reflective SILVER and easily gives your position away. I recommend taping this area up with black electrical tape (so no dirt can get in). The rest of the chassis is very smooth with no other real features except the scope mount. The scope mount allows the owner to fit pretty much anything onto this APS2. This is in fact essential, as the gun has no iron sights at all. Remember this is a dedicated sniper rifle. The rail is 20mm not WEAVER and is secured by 2 screws into the main body. Make sure these are tight, as they can loosen, which in turn could affect your scopes zero. They are long enough to allow any size person to fit their scope of choice. Personally, I use the high mounts to hold a scope. They allow a comfortable firing position and allow easy sighting over camouflage that is position along the barrel. Lower mounts struggle to keep their vision clear if camouflage is to be fitted in this way to break up the guns straight edge. The outer barrel is black to match the rest of the chassis and fits in by a long screw thread. The barrel is completely free floating from the woodwork and is only attached to the metal chassis (into which it is screwed). This means the barrel is not affected by the woodwork which can be slung with no fear of bending the barrel (unlike AEG M16A2). The gun has no muzzle, simply a flat end that screws flush into the outer barrel tube. The barrel ends directly at the end of the outer barrel, so pellets are not affected by air vortex inside a flash hider. However, this can lead the gun into problems with dirt in the barrel if you stick it in the dirt (ie. Fall)
ASSEMBLY
The MK2 can be broken down into 3 main parts: FURNITURE, CHASSIS and BARREL. This is very simple to do. The barrel is simply screwed into the chassis and has a quality thread with many twists. Resulting in the barrel being secure with no slop. Then the chassis is placed upside down and the furniture fitted on top. The trigger slides snuggly through an aperture and the rest fits in place perfectly. Then 2 bolts are driven down, through holes in the furniture and into the chassis. The front hole is deeply recessed into the wood near the magazine well. A spacer is provided to make the bolt the correct length, however my gun came without one and I had to improvise using nuts. I have found this front bolt is best secured tightly. The second bolt is at the rear of the trigger guard and goes through it, as well as the furniture. This bolt can protrude into the moving cylinder if over tightened and cause the draw of the bolt to grind the cylinder exterior. I have seen other people do this. This rear bolt I tighten till just biting.
Once assembled, the SPORTER is obviously amazingly well balanced and although long (longer than an M16A1) it is light and handles well. Far outperforming those horrid M24's and PSG1's that some players drag around. Lighter than most players AEG, this rifle feels the business and yet is not too light for the barrel to wander off target. The stock doesn't touch the barrel, so you can mount a sling with no fear of barrle wobble or strain.
PERFORMANCE
LESSONS LEARNT
Well this is the bit you all want to know about. How well it shoots depends on the set up you choose and how well you fit it. I think that many APS2 rifles out there, are badly fitted with parts, being damaged one way or another in the process. What a shame.
I myself went into this process with 8 years Airsoft experience mainly from an AEG background. I knew what performance I wanted from this gun and knew it was achievable. The instructions say that the HOP screw has a travel of 2.5 revolutions from OFF to FULL.
I fired the gun out of the box at targets out to 50m using 0.30g and 0.29g GRANDMASTER. I was convinced of neither pellet and although the spring gun had impressive range and accuracy, something just wasn’t right. The pellets would only fly as a long lob shot and I intended to get them flying straight (as far as possible). I used the gun for only 1 event at stock power and it did OK but the Hop was not set correctly and everything was bedding in.
So I fitted a 500fps wider spring (back then this was the accepted limit). With OK’s blue anodized piston, OK spring guide, PSS2 piston head, and PSS2 cylinder head (with tapered muzzle). The original 6.05mm barrel and HOP unit would do the job, or so I hoped. I used the gun to game with, for a few 2 day events, hitting targets out to 75m+ although not very often (at that range only 1 shot in several lands close or hits the target). I used 0.30g and 0.29g GRANDMASTER and again found neither to be satisfactory. The gun was not consistant, which above all else was my aim. It’s no good having super range but no real chance of hitting the target.
My site limit was 350fps back then for a sniper rifle that could shoot within 20m. So while everyone else was busy fitting 4-500fps springs, I degraded down to 110% PSS2 spring and at the same time, decided to operate.
Well I stripped the gun down. Removed the stock (2 bolts) and then unscrew the outer barrel assembly. The problem was not inside the cylinder or regarding the spring/piston. Although I had to replace the original nylon piston back in the gun to fit the thinner and lower powered spring. The spring guide, is once again just the original.
The problem was the HOP UNIT. I have read that the MARUZEN L96 suffers from the same problem…. The hop can come loose and make zeroing the rifle impossible. The HOP unit has a pivot fitted…….. when you adjust the HOP THREAD (with the key provided) the pivot is pushed up, which in turn presses down onto a spring that holds the small rubber dome in place. This rubber dome is the BRAIN of the APS2 MK2, it is the HOP UP. As the pellets are fired , the rubber dome causes drag on the pellets top surface causing the back spin effect known as HOP.
No matter how the HOP was set, the PIVOT would not press down enough (in my mind) to get the amount of spin that I required. So I took apart the HOP UNIT and laminated a small piece of ABS plastic onto the pivot end that presses down onto the Spring and rubber. This causes more tension in the HOP UNIT and I have found that now my HOP would stay zeroed (at one stage, I did not touch the hop for 18 months but still gamed regular and got good long range tags).
I recommend this MODIFICATION to anyone with this APS2 MK2 or AP2 L96.
Well how does it shoot now?
Read this long story with pictures; to see my first event with the gun after the major surgery. The account is accurate and cross referenced with all players involved.
http://www.geocities.com/guru6mm/2jun1
This was the best score I ever got at the local club (ran ’91-’03) and highest ratio. Shooting 18 with only 1 against. Happy Memories….
Well years have passed and I hardly ever play anymore due to club closure, but my APS2 MK2 is still my favorite Airsoft gun and performs brilliantly, as long as you follow these simple guidelines……..
Use
MARUZEN 0.30g pellets for ranged/general purpose
STRAIGHT 0.36g for lob shots with tighter groups but less range
Limit
The amount of shots you put through your gun will somehow effect it’s accuracy in the short term. As the rubber HOP heats up through friction, the pellets are effected differently. This may only be a minor thing and no-one else has reported it (but it does happen). Also if your spring has been rested (gun in storage) then it will take a certain number of shots to get your gun firing at full power. This maybe 2 or more magazines.
Set
The HOP for 0.30g to fly out straight and true. On the range and in game, try to make every shot count and watch precisely where it goes (trajectory).
My own SETUP
Well I have set my gun up in a completely different manner from what you would imagine. Firstly, my gun is stored for long periods and then I use it in SNIPER vs SNIPER games. Anyway, you may only get 1 chance of a shot all day and you prey your gun will come through for you. I test fire my gun, say 3 shot on the range only. The spring is still tired and doesn’t give a full power shot. However, I know that the next 4 shots will be sweet (maybe all I need to win) After that, the gun starts to creep up full power and with the HOP set as high as mine, the pellets begin to rise.
At this stage I can either stay on 0.30g and float shots out to 70m with pretty good accuracy (if the target is in such a position). However, now, I switch to 0.36g pellets which counter the high HOP and bring the trajectory into a lob shot but with great penetration of foliage and great grouping.
The lower powered spring is better for the gun (and nowadays about all that is legal) and is not too loud, with acceptable vibration of the gun when it fires.
The last game I played had 2 opponents and we all had to nav to 6 locations. I saw 1 dude, stalked in and got spotted. I dummied him while actually doubling back and flanking him quickly. Crawled into range and just as he set off to run, I popped a 0.30g pellet into his head (aimed for his body). Crossing target at 50m.
Later I set up an ambush and eventually shot the last player after around 10 shots. Again was a crossing target with cover at 40m. Even after 10 shots he did not know my location (only my direction). The game was won and no-one else got a shot off…. Shows that the APS2 MK2 is worthy of it’s little known name (as written on the box)…. KING OF FIELD!
I have shot players with this, who have not bothered to take effective cover at stupid ranges. They think they are out of range and suddenly WHACK! I love it buy one, but you must be prepared to spend time learning to use it effectively. I have fired plenty (around 8-10 thousand) pellets through this gun and now have a great W.A.G. with it.
W.A.G= Wild Assed Guess; regarding where to aim dependant on range, wind, etc….
PROBLEMS
The MK2 suffers many of the problems that other APS versions have. Including the magazine sticking in place unless, the rear guide screw is slightly loose. When in the heat of a game, you must also watch out for running out of pellets, as cocking the MK2 with an empty magazine can result in damage to the mag or cylinder head, if you are cranking the bolt with speed. Indeed when the magazine is empty, the bolt is designed to stop short and not allow a shot.
Well thousands of rounds through this gun and only 1 problem that has developed. When the cocking handle is in any position other than the rest position, the trigger is locked. Great, this is correct and stops you damaging the internals should you release the piston early. However, nowadays, the trigger can remain locked after the bolt is cycled and returned to the rest position. The bolt must be either slammed down hard (which is real noisy) or tweaked once in position. This problem slows down your rate of fire and sometimes you miss a sitter as the trigger is locked. Well should this develop, the problem is linked to the shaped metal block that protrudes from the top of the trigger unit. This unit is simply removed by 2 screws. With the block visible check for wear on the angled corner. I have filed the block to give a steeper angle again and this has made the bock, slide into the shoot position once again, with sticking.
GUN STATISTICS
Total Length: 1110mm (yep it’s longer than the SV)
Barrel Length: 470mm (that’s no that long)
Barrel diameter: 6.05mm (tighter than a stock AEG barrel)
Weight: 2500g (well lighter than most rifles other than the VSR series)
Scope Rail: 20mm width (I like the higher mounts, personally)
Magazine Capacity: 24 (if you load 25 in mag, they can only be inserted with bolt at rear)
Gun Power: 274fps out of box and 320 fps with PSS2 110% spring.
Recommended Pellets: 0.29g however, I much prefer the far cheaper MARUZEN 0.30g for general purpose and 0.36g STRAIGHT for best grouping.
My own Accessories:
PSS2 110% spring
PSS2 Cylinder Head (tapered version)
Original Cylinder
Original Nylon Piston
PSS2 Accuracy Cup, piston head
Original Hop (modified for extra hop)
Original barrel
Original Bolt
High Scope Rings
3X40 Wide Angle Scope
Original trigger.
RATINGS:
Build Quality 5/5
Performance 5/5 (as a sniper rifle).
Reliability 5/5
Potential for upgrades 5/5
Out of my 14 years Airsofting, this gun is just the best I've used.
Pictures coming soon....
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Some real good stuff on here (loved the stuff ASh did)
Here is a GIANT A3 WATERCOLOUR PAINTING I did of T.M.A. (my team).
It is from the 2003 S.A.C. 2 day Team tournament.
It is a scene after TMA's first contact (surrounded 2 scouts and tagged them in seconds) then regrouped quick in all round defense before bugging out...... quick before reinforcements arrived.
T.M.A. stormed home to win with ease (I tagged a full team out in their beds on the second morning!) lol! I'm the guy with the APS by the way....
Hope you like it (looks great hanging on my wall!)
will upload some more paintings soon....
M40a1 (PCS)
in Rifles (Gas)
Posted
Only just seen your question. Sorry for late reply.
I have no experience with barrels over 554mm
You may get more power (if that is really necessary lol)
I rate the PSS10 6.03mm 430mm in my VAR, so presume the long one is on par (just with more power).
However, I will say that the rifle is already fairly hefty compared to a VSR and adding more weight will make it just abit harder to use. ie. more fatigue to your arms and simply harder to crawl/etc.
The choice is yours. But I suggest I would only look at your plan if I was allowed really high power and had fields that favoured very long ranges engagements as a rule. My own woodland gaming would not require or favour it. If it ain't broken, don't fix it.
Let us know how you fair, if you do/have gone down that route.
Good Hunting