3vi1-D4n
-
Content Count
2,657 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Blogs
Calendar
Posts posted by 3vi1-D4n
-
-
Old WE GBBRs such as the MP5/MP7 had overly strong rocket valve springs and recoil springs. Rocket valve springs can be chopped by 1.5 rungs while recoil springs can be chopped between 30-40%. That will increase the efficiency.
And no its not the #049 that eats away at the bolt, it is the hammer.
-
Since I went to a steel hammer/trigger sear set there has been no wear.
But the hammer, will then wear out the bolt carrier due to a few design issues. Long story short, WE's hammer design, when replicated with steel, will wear the valve release areas on the bolt carrier.
The biggest issue isn't that.
It is over time, the pin that holds the striker in place will bend from impact, leading to a decrease in FPS and irratic full auto. To solve this you need to temper the pin, and then modify the mechbox so that striker assembly stops not by where the pins stop, but at the front of the striker area.
So far, no other issues have popped up.
-
1 hour ago, MODDAN said:
Got a spot of help from NonEx, and have come to the conclusion that I need to invest in a MapleLeaf barrel. Grinding down the bridge to allow for VSR rubbers seems like a bad idea to me.
I do it all the time. Thats how I convert GHK and older VFCs to use VSR hop rubbers.
Also Maple Leaf barrel and hop up sets actually decrease accuracy.
-
I did manage to get one of these to work a while back, after about an hour of trouble shooting. Its been so long I can't remember what I did. They are not a drop in solution.
Lots of dremelling, particularly around the firing pin, the valve locking/disconnector piece and the hammer.
Basically you need to examine and test everything for smooth functioning. Make extra spaces so it can move around a bit more. It has crazy tight tolerances that as soon as temperature changes, or dirt gets in the way it stops functioning.
-
Its an AEG barrel, You have to grind down the hop window so it would fit the VSR rubbers.
-
ROF is a strange one in airsoft.
One factor is the blowback velocity, which is dependent on piston/cylinder volume, bolt weight, gas velocity as well as gas output.
The other factor is the return spring tension. And there can be two return springs. One is the spring that returns the bolt carrier, the other one is the buffer spring which can aid in the return.
This is assuming the bolt carrier hit the buffer at the rear.
In real steel, you require a HEAVY spring to keep the bolt closed before the bullet exits the barrel, particularly if the SMG has a short body and by doing that you increase the return speed. You COULD lengthen the body and so the BCG never hits the rear, and hence lowering the ROF.
In airsoft If you have two return springs, and the bolt carrier hits the rear, it may be better to LIGHTEN the bolt carrier return spring rather than to increase tension on that spring. The lighter the BCG return spring, the faster the blowback action would be, so it would hit the buffer quicker and faster, and would be hitting the buffer return spring fast enough to store more energy for a more forceful return. It would also be more gas efficient.
I always lighten the bolt carrier return spring, as it creates more efficient systems and better blowback.
But another thing to consider, shorter springs doesn't mean less power. I have a very short spring I got out of my A&K MGs, consistently giving more power than the longer M120s.
-
It shouldn't matter when you put it in right?
MP5 spring guide length isn't critical as the bolt is guided by the receiver.
-
Sorry yes I mean, WELL not WE.
How much are you selling the VAL?
-
WE AK74: If it uses an old Marui style rear sight block/integrated gas tube, Does that mean the bolt carrier does not have a gas piston at all? Or the upper tube allows enough space to allow a faux gas piston through?
-
Ak74s can have AKM gas blocks, just means more gas block erosion...
-
Perhaps take a look at the Mini UZI. Striker fired.
I am aware there isn't much room on an AS VAL bolt carrier for a striker spring assembly, the springer/GBB concept may work but still has the same issue, which is the added complexity of a blowback unit, beside the striker assembly.
-
Hmm....will reconsider my options. I have 2 WE SVDs, probably just carbine one and doll it up as a mall-ninja would
-
Nice.
This, or making an SVDU GBB?
-
Well done
-
Well, no, pretty much every other rifle will function from 0-15*C with green gas.
Unfortunately with the HK417 there wasn't anything else I could do to optimise. Recoil is fantastic in summer to the point there are double feeding issues, but is unusable in winter.
VFC replicas are woefully unoptimised. Yesterday I bought a VFC G36K passed down from so many owners because it was just not shooting well. Currently here its 9-14*C and in stock form, the rifle barely fired off 15 rounds before it stopped. Decreased both the flute valve spring (2 rungs) and the recoil spring (8 rungs), and auto dumps are now doable, and at this temperature it is still at 400fps.
-
Sold mine because under 15*C the gas efficiency dropped to rapid fire of 10 rounds per mag.
-
What temperature range are you guys using your P90?
I bought mine 2nd hand for a S&G project gun,the magazine was degassed for years as the guy did an HPA mod to the P90. I converted it back.
The polymer of the mag is shattered and broken, but the magazine holds gas well. No issues to speak of.
-
The advantages of the older closed bolt striker system is accuracy and power.
I could never get the newer open bolt system to give desirable accuracy or power for field use. Mind you, it depends if you see UZIs as a <35m gun or >35m gun. I use it as a backpack PDW, so long ranges are desirable.
But yeah, congrats on procuring one of the rare much disregarded gems of the GBB world
-
I have one gas mag, no issues atm. It does have sealant in it.
But then again I have had good fortune with VFC MP5 mags also (had 7, none leaked). Not so for WA based magazines though...
-
To get this QD mount done properly you really need a mill. Here is why:
The guy originally used a grinder to cut a 45 degree which is why it was still over protruding, he screwed the mount in AFTER he closed the 2 halves together, damaging the screw (meaning that I could not disassemble the gas chamber without stripping the screw). That and it wasn't threaded in properly, the threads were stuffed.
For this to work you need the high temperature silicone gasket seal (grey stuff that doesn't flake of and get inside your barrel), a M10x1mm threading tool and a 9mm drill bit.Another suggestion is to install the female QD joint there and using a male to male converter for the hose attachment. This would give you the option of using HPA or gas with 2 minutes of unblocking the magazine gas duct.
-
1
-
-
Also a few quick notes:
- Upper receiver is really loose on the lower receiver
- Seam lines on the lower receiver can be annoying if using without gloves.
- Trigger is heavy because the trigger bar is too short and you have to push back fully on semi-auto until trigger pushes against the safety. Solution is either to either rebend the trigger to lengthen the bar to shoe, or as some people do, make a custom spacer to push the trigger bar sooner. I did a mixture of both..
- Accuracy is fantastic at short ranges on stock barrel, and is even better after the hop rubber has been bored out and trigger job done. A3 targets out to 50m is easy work.
- FPS today at 20*C was at 420-440fps on 0.25g on propane, And that's with a lightened flute valve spring. Right now, auto dumps have no gas venting from the front as the lightened flute valve spring decreases the amount of wasted gas in each cycle.
- Rate of fire was at 1500rpm, I dropped this back down to 950rpm by clipping 3 rungs of each recoil spring.
- Its fun as it is, though it should really be heavier. Will add weights to the front.
Since its a 2nd hand gun:
- Bolt stop hasn't broken yet, and no wear either and probably won't break given I have lightened the recoil springs
- Hammer pack haven't broken yet either. Will wait till winter when zinc metals crystalise.
Overall happy with the gun, since its a project for RDS receiver conversion it probably won't be used on the field much, but it has potential to be a good field weapon.
Its not as trouble free as the GHK Steyr AUG, but its as gas efficient and power level is higher than the GHK. Waiting for winter to fully test this out.
-
1
-
-
Well all I could tell is that when the issue happens and I look down on the trigger bar, it won't reach the trigger itself, unless I switch to full-auto where the trigger travels longer or remove the magazine.
I fixed it.
There are two trigger bars, one is a piece of wire bent into a loop that you can see as you take the upper receiver down. That is attached to the trigger shoe.
The other trigger bar is attached tot the trigger pack, that releases the hammer.
As the magazine pushes down on the gas chamber, it pushes the 2nd trigger bar that is attached to the trigger pack. You can either file down the gas chamber by 0.2mm or file down the trigger bar by 0.2mm.
A relatively easy fix.
-
1
-
-
Wowza, I would love to see how this was done, where did he tap it?
-
This is where the QD hose attachment was attached. Its a great idea as it keeps the gas mounts away from the ground, and doesn't crush the hose.
He threaded the attachment right against the screw that holds the expansion chamber together. It actually bent the screw. I tightened the attachment, and then milled it until the attachment did not interfere with the screw on the inside.
Currently that hose mount has been disabled by the way of a small rubber ball attached on the inside.
WE AKS-74UN First Impressions (Pic heavy)
in Rifles (Gas)
Posted · Edited by 3vi1-D4n
Finally bought a WELL G74D (AK74M), out of curiosity, and in my country its not a regular import.
Overall, its not bad. Thought it was gonna be pretty bad, turns out it came with a few good surprises. Following from the previous reviews listed here on the WELL G74A (AKS74U). Picking it up:
- It has creaky plastic imitation wood, the whole front section wobbles like a flag pole in the wind. Its a flat black painted, with an aluminium barrel that has been surprisingly well made that has the early heat dissipating threads.
- It has a Steel based AEG receiver and barrel trunnion from a CYMA/JG AK. The receiver has a rectangular cut for a motor cage, but it hasn't been cut all the way. However the WELL pistol grip covers the rectangular cut. (More on this later)
- Front sight is of a CYMA design
- It has a Marui gas tube/ rear sight block, and a marui based stock trunion, with the creaky imitation wood. It can take only take wood kits that fit the original Marui systems.
- It had trouble fitting WE AK47 mags without mods.
- It was full of grease, which was everywhere. Basically out of the box the barrel was so dirty it was impossible to get consistent accuracy. Spent hours degreasing it afterwards.
- The inner barrel is of a VSR cut, but fitted for the WE hop unit. After degreasing the rifle is relatively accurate.
- It chronos at around 340-360fps with a 17" inner barrel with a WE AK47 mag @ 18*C, (the gun came with a CO2 Mag). Blowback is similar to a WE, except its slower.
- The blowback unit is a low output power unit compared with the WE. That can be easily remedied. After some modifications the blowback unit is now outputting 460fps @ 18*C.
- The blowback unit O-ring is not undersized as some reviews have been suggesting. It is actually oversized, no further work is required.
- The trigger unit is a replica of the WE, except it looks more heavy duty.
- The hammer, semi-auto sear and gas release striker is steel, everything else is zamak. Quite a nice surprise there. However the area on the hammer which engages the auto-sear has a really shallow cut and leads to partial engagement of the auto-sear. This leads to light striking on full auto.
Basically, after a few hours of work, by: '
- Degreasing everything
- Chopping the inner barrel down to 16", added an AK47 thread nut
- Modifying the trigger box to fit AK47 mags
- Modifying the height which the mags engaged to the blowback unit, in order to get better gas route seal
- Shimming the outer barrel to barrel trunnion
- Chopping the recoil spring
- Cutting a deeper engagement area on the hammer for the auto-sear.
- Reinforcing the trigger box
- Chopping the flute valve spring to release less gas.
Now I have an AKM at 460fps with stuff all cooldown. More pictures to follow.
Now, since it uses standard AEG style receiver cuts, has anyone considered using a WELL to converted a JG/CYMA RPK to a GBB?