3vi1-D4n
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Posts posted by 3vi1-D4n
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Doubtful that its a tolerance issue, the front sight is separate from the outer barrel, install the outer barrel then tighten the outer barrel castle nut with the correct tool making sure it is very tight. with the inner barrel removed you can undo the front sight grub screw and tilt the front sight to what ever position you deem "straight" then tighten the grub screw. you'll only be able to move it left or right a very mm but its probably enough to get it correct for you.
If your not getting epic accuracy then there's something probably wrong. that or you need to go up to heavier ammo because of your 440 fps...
FYI magnum motors with a metal end bell can be prone to arching on the metal base of the pistol grip, if you get blow fuses or hot motor issues it might be worth starting there with your fault finding.
Telling you now it is a tolerance issue, as I fixed it. I fixed it not by tightening the nut on the stock barrel (you can't secure it on the stock barrel as it is clipped on with a steel C collar which rotates even after you tighten it). I squished the cut on the barrel to make it tighter around the guide in the receiver, no more rotation. Simple fix.
I also changed the hop nub and sorted the hop inaccuracy issue. Simple fix. But yes anything with heavier ammo will shoot better but the instability with low ammo weight is suggestive of issues with the imperfections in the hop rubber and the barrel. I am using 0.25g.
As for the Systema motor arching, of the 6 systema magnums I have had I have never experienced it. However I did experience a number of loose pinions getting stuck in the mechbox, as it did happen with my newly upgraded M4. Systema pinions are terrible.
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Just upgraded mine with:
- SHS Steel gears
- deans connector
- short M120 (stock springs from the JG M4s, which are shortened M120s giving around 380fps in a normal v2 mech)
- systema magnum
- nunchuk 7.4v 2000mah 20C.
Rate of fire is around 18rps on a 7.4v, due to the Systema Magnum. FPS is around 440fps. Hop up + accuracy isn't as good as some of the guns I have had in the past but its skirmishable.
Solved the front sight offset issue, turns out to be a tolerance issue with the outer barrel aligning with the upper receiver, where the guide in the receiver which keeps the barrel aligned, was just a bit too narrow, allowing the barrel to rotate.
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what is a full auto lock out sear? that is cryptic.
You mean an auto sear? the thing the bolt trips on the full auto return cycle to release the hammer in order to ensure the bolt is closed before it fires on auto?
VFC website sells them, since the fire control groups are the same between a HK416/M4 and HK417
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I just picked up a CQB SOPMOD recently.
Its nice, kicks nicely, but have a few gripes.
- Plastic is just ABS. far far cry from the other FRP and more wear resistant plastics.
- Alu receiver and RIS seems very crudely finished compared with G&Ps and VFCs
- Accuracy, while it shoots straight and consistent, it lacks the power to have suitable carrying range.
- 2 piece barrel for a Marui???
- The front sight is off centre a little, shooting to the right.
Not perfect, but for an electric it is punchy and consistent, but falls behind in the game compared with other more modern manufacturers...
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Even after I put in the maple leaf and new barrel, 10% of the shots were still fliers.
I finally solved it by making my own hop adjuster arm that took a normal AEG nub.
That solved the problem.
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On a side note.. if your FET was smoked, I don't even think the gun would shoot, might be malfunctioning. Maybe a slight chance it was affected by some water?
If the FET is smoked it generally keeps firing without the trigger being pulled. I have had a few runaway guns which has had the mosfets fried and the mosfets start smoking and melting the stock. One actually bursts into flames. The reasons they failed varies, from static electricity, rain, or just random field use.
I have now removed all mosfets from my rifles, but I run expensive motors, good wiring and good quality trigger sets so at 11.1v the contact erosion is non-existent. Even at M130 springs on 7.4v the ROF is around 15rps, so is more than sufficient for gaming.
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No, unfortunately. That and I have sold my VFC MP5s so thats no help.
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BTW, mine had no NPAS. Is that normal? I had to mod the floating valve distance with a dremel.
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Yeah mine has a few scratches in the upper, I have filed away at the steel insert to prevent it from scratching the upper. Will see what happens.
And yeah I got rid of the VFC stock barrel, and replaced with a falcon non-rifled precision barrel, and noticed the fliers and inconsistency is virtually eliminated. I am throwing out the VFC barrel, as it is bore'ed with a warp I am surprised VFC allowed this in their QC. Or perhaps they want us to spend money on their precision barrels...
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Found the issue, the gas seal rubber at the base of the magazine wasn't pressed in tight enough by the 4 screws at the base of the mag and hence when venting the rubber shrunk inside the magazine. I stretched and heated it up and mounted it back into the magazine, it seems to be functioning fine.
I have now swapped to a ML 70 shore bucking, 10fps drop from using VFC bucking, which is at 420fps at 0.25g at 12*C, stock magazine valve.
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A guy I lent it to double fed and jammed some BBs in the nozzle, and vented all the gas. Now my magazine leaks gas from the base. Any ideas why?
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Yes, sorry its 300mm, which is good given the power output out of a short barrel.
I have the new version hop rubber. It shoots flat and straight 50% of the time, and 50%, sporadically. I am going to change out to a maple leaf 70% to see if that would help. I use .25g as standard, and I tune my GBBRs on 0.25gs, so to keep consistent ammo between my various platforms. I do know GBBRs have a tedency to be set with an over-hop by default because that prevents BBs from being forced through the barrel from the bolt momentum of the BCG, hence they favour heavy ammo which in turn minimises the occurrence of fliers by hiding secondary hop effects.
On the HK417 high default hop up is due to the hop arm/nub/adjustor. Even on the minimum setting the hop adjustor pushes against the hop arm, as the outer barrel doesn't allow the hop adjustor to go "forward" which means hop will always be "on". I tried to force it forward and wore out the grub screw threads. Bending the hop arm upwards fixed the overhop issue. But now the issue is the sporadic in/consistency, which as I said, could be due to the hop rubber being inconsistently made, hop window on the inner barrel being too low/wide, or light BBs on a flat hop.
After I filed the rear receiver tabs, it opens up smoothly but yes there is a slight up and down wobble, which is really hardly anything. Gluing a rubber piece on the lower will fix that. It already has 2 rubber discs at the front of the receiver to minimise this.
I have locktited the pins now on the selector and cocking handle. Will see how long that lasts.
Thats it for now. I will install a maple leaf rubber soon and test, and/or a new inner barrel. If I want more kick I will probably bore out the blowback stem to allow more gas to hit the rear of the BCG but I suspect they have purposefully narrowed the gas flow either to allow the float valve to close earlier OR to minimise the recoil, which is brutal enough stock.
If the accuracy doesn't pan out then I will stick with my VFC M4, which is a shame as the recoil doesn't really compare to the 417.
LOL what can I say, I have an SBR on an HBAR using a triple tap break and that has as much recoil as my VFC M4 if not less.
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I bought one, finally!
Its good, but has a number of issues. One issue out of the box was my upper receiver would not separate from my lower, turns out the rear tab was half a mil too wide, so the friction prevented the upper receiver from opening. It also had issues with the nozzle return spring not returning the nozzle back into the BCG and also a slightly leaky magazine.
FPS was rated at around 360fps on 0.2g, unmodified, on the stock 420mm 12" barrel and the stock hop rubber (flat hop version). Inaccurate as hell.
Modified the float valve position slightly, up to 410fps on 0.25g, on stock barrel stock hop rubber.
Modified the hop rubber to remove the constrictor narrowing, stock barrel on 420fps on 0.25gs.
Modified the valve position slightly more, up to 430fps on 0.25g, stock barrel and modified hop rubber.
Issue now is over hopping, and strange fliers. It shoots straight 50% of the time, but hops high on 0.25gs. 50% are left spinning fliers.
Will change hop up rubber but I have a feeling its due a number of factors with the hop window being too low, the hop nub isn't applying equal pressure to the rubber, and the rubber not so flat, which is causing the issue.
Overall, just for the recoil it was worth the buy. Now its a slow iterative process to debug the accuracy issues. I will need an extra 5-6 mags to be combat useable.
Using a VFC M4 10", WE SCAR L 10" and WE AK PMC for comparison:
Both VFC M4 and WE SCAR has a VSR type hop up (Maple leaf flat) both with Madbull AEG barrels modded to fit. WE AK PMC uses a Maple Leaf but a stock AK barrel.
All 3 generate comparable groupings of 2-3cm at 12m with 0.25gs.
Performance:
VFC M4: Modified floating valve position no rocket valve, 390fps on 0.25gs (Stock with a 10" barrel 360fps on 0.2g). Accurate target distance ~60m+
WE SCAR: Modified floating valve position no rocket valve, 370fps on 0.25gs (Stock with a 10" barrel is 360fps on 0.2g). Accurate target distance ~60m
WE AK PMC: Modified floating valve position no rocket valve, 440fps on 0.25gs (Stock with a 16" barrel is 390fps on 0.2g). Accurate target distance ~70m+
So after modification the VFC HK417 is comparable to a modified VFC/WE platform.
The only downsides I foresee with the HK417 is the weight and the magazines fitment in pouches. Even though it is shorter than the AK but not by much.
VFC M4 is 3.1kg with magnifier and red dot, steel Govt profile barrel
WE AK PMC is only 3.7kg with a AKM wood kit, stock aluminium barrel.
VFC HK417 is 3.7kg without optics. stock outer barrel.
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VFC engineering at it's finest?
So my HK416C(2015 version) just arrived. It comes with the new magazine. For some reason they switched the flash hider to a simple M4 style birdcage one.
WGC was nice enough to chrono the gun before sending it to me, however they left the magazine full with gas and some BBs.
After a bit of cleaning and relubing I put in the mag and shoot the gun. First shot worked fine but the second trigger pull simply let the hammer go and nothing happened.
I examined what might be the problem and I found out that the mag was not seated correctly. Oh well I just push it in harder or so I tought but nope! The magazine would not move inside the magwell any more despite the magazine catch clearly not keeping the mag well.
So first I took apart the gun and inserted the mag in the lower receiver with no upper on it. The mag seated right. I assembled the gun again, inserted the magazine which again would not seat right and after I pulled the bolt back I noticed that the magazine's real steel lip imitations are already hitting the upper receiver's sides. These ones:
However if I kept pushing the mag in while shooting the gun it worked fine it seemed there was a good contact between the mag and the nozzle. So I looked under the magazine catch:
So the question is what should I file down: the fake lips or the mag catch? Also the bolt seems really sticky(I polished it only a little).
Edit: or just file the part of the magazine where the mag catch goes in.
I would file down the upper receiver instead. thats the issue anyways, the magazine will fit a standard M4 so its the tolerances on the upper that needs modding.
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HK should have lots of O-ring/Seal places. I get mine from a distributor of industrial O-rings.
Most of the VFC M4s do have this issue, so it pays to have some handy. Though the newer VFC M4 bolts don't have such issue.
It could be a matter of heating it in an oven to 150*C and re-cure the rubber???
Otherwise superglue makes the O-ring stiffer and stuck onto the blowback piston/unit.
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The intent of my post is to describe the possible causes of weakened FPS during auto fire.
Obviously the MP7 has no buffer so you won't be able to add an anti bounce device onto it.
However it is possible to add spacers to the spring guide to increase spring tension.
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Yeah...ditch a perfectly fine VFC M4 for a promise of a great VFC HK417 for a bit of the 308 action or wait for a WE SCAR-H?
VFC M4s with steel outer barrels are generally accurate enough as DMRs, so I have been eyeing out a spare upper to build a MK12....What to do?
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Photos of the broken hop chamber pls?
If its as you described then something is putting stresses on either the hop unit or the barrel to make it snap while the barrel is secured to the hop unit.
Also after the ramjet valves does that affect the gas efficiency?
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I stand corrected. VFC m4 bolt is 210g. The standard vfc buffer is hardly any weight, while h buffer is 80g.
A aabb anti bounce buffer is 50g.
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Real buffers would be too heavy. A real ar15 Normal carbine buffer is the same weight as the VFC bolt carrier.
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LOL @ VFC issues
*Grins at my Small rice 7*
In regards to jumpy issues with auto, its because the hammer is falling before the bolt has returned to battery. Usually due to bolt bounce.
Two solutions:
- Increase strength of return spring. This fixed the VFC MP5 inconsistent auto issues
- Use an anti-bounce buffer (made by AABB) for VFC M4/416/M27 though dunno about 417.
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No worries.
Really a lot of the more technical mods can be done with less than 40 minutes total with a dremel, mallet, and a soldering iron (to melt the pin into the nozzle)
Not to be a devils advocate, but yeah literally every VFC MP5 and WE MP5 has the offsetted front sight issue. If you go straight to optics then it won't matter but it just sucks that they never shoot straight using their iron sights even on maximum windage adjustment. Even my mates RS AR15s and G3 and AKs have this issue so its not unexpected, I have been lucky not to have this issue with my RS.
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These are the bare basic mods to ensure gun won't wear:
- Crusader Feed ramps. Will stop bolt nozzle from hitting sides of magazine lip
- New bolt nozzle OR, drill a 2mm hole into the feeding tab/BB stripper and then melt a small nail into int. That will stop the feeding tab/BB stripper on the nozzle from breaking.
- File down the sharp edges on the gas release delayer/extractor sear, and also the auto sear.
These are the bare basic mods to ensure gun will be skirmishable:
- Increase hammer tension by either, adding spacer to hammer, OR getting a heavier hammer spring
- 120% recoil spring: Ensures no bolt bounce and light strikes on auto.
- VSR hop mod (a little more advanced mod) : Increase accuracy and range by 100%.
This is the mod you will need if the front sight is offset at an angle (like so many VFC/WE/real steel).
- Undo the front sight
- Take a rubber mallet and smash the cocking handle in the direction which makes the front sight straighten.
- reapply front sight to check. If not straight, keep smashing.
(I did this to an RS G3 also)
Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG
in Rifles (AEG)
Posted
Further issues:
The Shortened M120 spring tension (at 450fps) is too strong for a 7.4v 2000mah on a systema motor, which is really weird considering its going 16-18rps. Normally this configuration would pull an M130 fine on standard ratio gears, but it seems to be due to the gears being hi-speed rather than standard ratio.
What is happening is that it is locking up at near the release point if I release the trigger half stroke. I have to remove the stock tube to release the spring.
Since then I tested it without the blowback system and it is still locking up, which indicates that spring is too strong. I clipped 1 rung off the spring and the lockup disappeared.
Now the FPS is a 400fps with 0.2g or 350fps on 0.25g. Low by my standards but combat usable.