3vi1-D4n
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Posts posted by 3vi1-D4n
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but reloading AKS ARE SO KOOL.
While it looks cool, the crude top covers can be very sharp.
Last week I cut myself at a range speed reloading a Chicom AK while practicing break contact drills. At the end the rifle and mags were covered in blood...
"You're not using your weapon properly if it doesn't bite you"....Certainly applies to AKs.
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You'll burn your hand off, kid!
Fun build. I've certainly seen weirder/dumber looking RS guns. Fairly routinely, actually. People love to do wacky hillbilly AK builds for whatever reason.
Yeah SBRs shooting M43 rounds aren't uncommon, and have their place.
Yeah my Micro AK was a 3Hr fun build off a WE AK PMC. Possibly the first to get a Romanian stock onto one. Testing my milling,lathing and threading abilities really. Really quick work.
Not only I had to mill the stock to fit, I had to redesign the stock locking system (stock trunnion on a WE was different from a normal RS trunnion hence the RS Romanian stock wouldn't fit). The foregrip holder doesn't fit the barrel hence why the foregrip pushes the foregrip upwards.
Only wish that someone made custom steel outer barrel sets for the WE, I would be doing a WE RPK or a AK DMR. Given FPS off my WE AKM is 500fps and my Micro AK is 430fps both have more than 60m reach.
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I present, Micro AKM (obviously not RS)
Overall Length 490mm folded, 680mm deployed.Its for those who needs to be in and out of cars/buildings, insane kick and noise and run predominantly 7.62X39mm-
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The issue is the nozzle and weight in this case.
What is happening is that the depth of the gas route from the nozzle/blowback unit is a fraction of a millimetre to deep, the bolt has trouble pushing past the friction of the magazine gas bucking that is pushing against it. Normally when the nozzle is of normal weight its not so bad, the bolt return speed is high enough to return to battery, but in this case with a heavier bolt head it affects the return speed.
I have a stock nozzle reinforced with a steel pin at the feed ramp, but the return was still an issue. I upped the spring tension by putting a 4mm spacer behind the spring. Else going for a 120% spring may work fine.
Likewise, I had inconsistencies on auto as well due to both this issue and also the hammer spring being too light, so to get more consistent performance I added a 4mm plastic spacer behind the hammer spring and FPS became more consistent on auto.
Coupled with:
- VSR mod
- Cocking tube realignment
The MP5 will shoot fantastic.
In fact I had the A3 and the SD6 at the same time. A3 is a lot better than the SD6 in terms of construction and a lot less effort to tune. But the SD6 is "cooler".
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They are ok, I have the azimuth power-down valve in one mag, but aside from a small reduction in fps there isn't really any real advantages of having it, though I have made some mods that improves cycling, I shall explain...
Some have theorised that the regular valves output too much gas which leads to an accelerated cooldown effect. However, if you compare the valve with any of the other GBB valves, most have much wider openings, suggesting other factors at play with the VFC.
Some will say that the tank is small and surface area is fairly small also for heat to be absorbed. While that is true, Marui/KSC Glock 18cs have no cooldown yet magazines are the same dimensions. In fact their output valves are larger and the metal slide variants have heavier bolt carriers which also takes in account of weight of slide and valve differences.
So it leads me to conclude that:
1) The stem inside the blowback unit has openings which allow gas to be passed to the bolt carrier piston. Those openings are not wide enough. which leads to weak recoil impulse, using more gas than required for cycling, and increased temperature dependence of the flute valve.
2) The recoil spring induces a high ROF, which means that it is too stiff. The ROF should be lower so that there is more time for the liquid propane to absorb heat and convert to gas form.
So the solution was to:
- Clip the spring by 2-3 loops
- Enlarge the openings on the blowback stem with a dremel as well as modifying the blowback unit to allow more volume of gas to pass to the rear of the flute valve, triggering the flute valve sooner.
This results in more reliable auto dumps, increased felt recoil and improved firing impulse, all without new valves
.The only issue I see with the VFC valves so far is that the O-rings are too soft, and just requires a replacement. I bought stiffer O-rings from an O-ring place for $6 for 10 sets.
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Is it me or is it that all VFC and WE MP5s have issues with sight alignment?
After I meticulously modded my VFC MP5A2/3 to have no cycling or consistency issues with stock parts and VSR hop, I worked on a few more VFC MP5s and WE MP5. Yesterday I went and bought a VFC MP5SD3.
All MP5s so far has had a front sight alignment issue where the front sight is rotated too far to the right and the gun basically shoots off to the left of the sight picture. Its not hard to correct the issue (harder on the SD3 as the foregrip frame is welded) but is a bit annoying, considering we all pay top dollar for something which shoots like cr@p.
From talking to VFC owners no one seems to have ever noticed, does everyone have the same issue, or no one really cares because most people either slap a RDS on or use the rounds to guide onto the target?
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Didnt someone on this forum put a piece of AEG spring on the back of his gun to prevent it from breaking? I even saw pictures...
Yeah that was me...The Arnies crash in November got rid of the pics...
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I've skimmed through the topic and it seems that ultimately, this MP7 will fail on it's plastic receiver.
We can mod and upgrade the weapon but if it's receiver cracks, then it's all been for nothing. I. Had started reading the topic thinking that I might get this New Wave MP7 because it's loud and has big Kick back.
I wonder if current/ new batches may have improved receivers?
Isn't this the same as on the Marui and the KSC? While I haven't heard of the Marui breaking, I have seen the KSC break at the rear, and the KSC had much less kick. They still functioned with the breakage.
I don't know if the WE MP7 (or the KSC or Marui) was ever designed to work in the High 30*C range (>100*F), I guess only thorough testing/field trials will tell. There is no buffering on the rear of the WE MP7 so perhaps simple sorbo may suffice to protect the rear from breaking.
I have a WE G36 and the bolt carrier system is secured in place by 1 pin and 1 half pin (so in 3 positions on the plastic receiver). I haven't heard anyone break their WE G36 receivers yet.
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I too have a Maple Leaf 75 bucking and it's killing off my velocity so much that the bbs get about 20 metres out and drop. Even with adjustments from off to fully on.
I plug in a stock WE GBBR bucking shooting .25's and .30's and its fine. Dark and mysterious forces lurk within, my friends won't believe me. I think it would be better for both of us if you send me your 20" 417 and you can have mine.
Come to think of it the Maple Leaf bucking is the diamond 75 VSR/Pistol version. That's not right for the GBBR is it?
VFC barrels work well with WE rubbers I find, particularly in the VSR hop mod conversions I have done on their M4s/MP5s. VFC barrels also like A+ rubbers.
Surprisingly I had issues like this with RA-tech rubbers and WE barrels, and also A+ rubbers and WE barrels, where FPS drops 300fps for no visible reason.
But yeah, avoid those falcon rubbers they are inconsistent.
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I find with the WE the springs are a lot harder than the VFC. Perhaps thats one factor. When I do get the MP5K I will check over it.
But yeah I have had very little issue with my VFC, so dunno why everyone else has issues. The only additional part I installed was the VSR rubber mod and the crusader magazine stabiliser. Aside from hammering the cocking tube to get the gun to shoot onto its sight picture, its still on the stock blowback unit (modded with a steel pin in the BB stripper). I did increased the hammer spring tension by adding a spacer for more consistent gas output and cut down the recoil spring by a few rungs to slow the ROF for gas efficiency (so no cooldown for a mag dump). No leaky mags (I don't leave mags empty).
Though I do agree the WE MP5 has a better design internally but their shortcomings is in the external construction. The VFC is basically a RS to airsoft conversion, like the VFC M4.
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I just spent 3 hours on an WE MP5A2. Has a few issues.
- Shoots off the sight picture, basically the outer barrel trunion is not centralised and shoots off to the left of the sight picture even after full adjustment. (this issue is the same as the VFC)
- In correcting this issue I found that the steel is soft and surface deforms under hammer blows from the impact (VFC steel doesn't do that and is darn good quality stuff compared to the WE)
- The rear sight is too high, so rounds hit high from the point of aim even at short ranges.
- ROF is slow its not funny.
Not bad, 380fps with 0.25g while my VFC shoots 350-360fps on 0.25g at 18*C (but thats with a VSR hop rubber). Accuracy at short ranges is pretty good aside from sight picture issues.
Other observations:
- Paint is thin, particularly around the magazine
- The curve of the mag is distracting for MP5 mag pouches but when in use its fine
- Kick is snappy, though not actually that forceful. Its faster than the VFC but ROF is lower? Really odd.
- Its Loud
- Wobbles a little, plastic is thinner in places than the VFC.
- Stock feels cheap
- VFC sliding stock will require modding to fit, but it will.
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I found the problem.
Hard to explain. Normally the semi-auto sear on semi auto is brought forward by the trigger action, on the first part of the blowback cycle, the hammer is pushed backwards and hits the semi-auto sear,displaces it backwards and allows the hammer to slide underneath.
The steel semi-auto sear unfortunately is hit hard by the hammer, but the shape of the semi-auto sear does not allow the hammer to push it backwards easily, which means the bolt at those points of travel in contact with the hammer will incur more wear due to this issue. All it is required is to reshape the semi-auto sear to allow the hammer to displace it.
To demonstrate this problem, set the gun on semi, pull trigger all the way back, the hammer will fall, pull the back slowly backwards until you see the hammer hit the semi-auto sear. Note how difficult it is to push the hammer back at that point. It takes a bit more force to push the hammer below the semi-auto sear.
Example of what is wrong: This is the hephaestus Semi auto sear. I have used the GHK example, which demonstrates the issue:
RA tech one is even worse, note the lack of curve:
This is the shape of a real one note how rounded the curvature is:
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I haven't seen that issue on my bolt yet, though its early days. I may do some preventative measures to it before it gets to that point. Thanks for the note.
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Dunno yet, once I use it more I will be able to see.
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Update:
Installed the zpart hammer and sear set. Guess what?
It wouldn't even fire. The hammer had the same problem as the stock hammer, and had to be grinded down so the trigger would release.
But at least, yay for steel! Lets see how long that lasts.
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The return is faster yes, but the only real stress is the impact between the bolt and the mechbox. This isn't the marui where the nozzle and hop unit stops the impact of the bolt, this is a WE.
The buffer spring needs to be long/stiff enough to reduce the bolt's impulse to the rear of the gun, while short enough to allow the bolt lock to function.
What I meant before, was that it wasn't the best thing for the guy on the receiving end of a 1100rpm 400fps CQB weapon LOL
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Installed an aeg stock spring as buffer. Had to dremel canals for the spring to fit securely. Crazy rof after the mod.
Yeah, right ?
Thats a lot of hurt right there. Already at 16*C its hitting 400fps, increasing the ROF is probably not the best thing
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Update on the trigger mod:
A bit more than thousand rounds and my gun started to shoot full auto on semi.
Turns out, the hammer area where its catching on the hammer release/semi auto sear, is wearing, the bolt closed trip release has enough momentum to override the hammer release sear and fire on full auto.
I then tried to heat the hammer and sear to get it hardened. A VERT BAD idea. The hammer was ok, but the sear bubbled like pot metal. What ever they added into the material had the appearance of chrome but was in too small quantities to actually harden/strengthen the material.
After resurfacing the bubbled sear I got it working for a mag, and both the hammer and sear are now worn.
So off to KIC for a set of steel hammer and sears.
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Here is the custom buffer:
Its actually looped around inside of the plastic buffer piece. I cut channels into the back of the plastic buffer so the spring would sit flush behind the buffer when it is all reassembled.
Otherwise, sorbophane might also work, probably though less dampening of the impact than a full on spring such as this.
This system does increase ROF noticeably.
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You know, that's something I didn't think about.. Derp. I used it in a game a couple weeks ago, was over 100*F. I mostly use HPA guns/tap everything for HPA so I forgot about propane/GG and temperature. Haha jeez I feel stupid.
It's still working, so I'm going to put some o-rings on the recoil spring for now to buffer it and a cut spring on the back plate.
Holy MOG, it's kicking stupidly hard at 8*c. I can't begin to imagine 40*c. I shoot RS often and the MP7 definitely out kicks a .22 AR15 at 15*c.
That being said, yeah either a stronger recoil spring or a buffer spring added should do fine. I am unfortunately no where near my guns ATM, can't take a pic of the mod I did.
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Sounds like it needs a stronger recoil spring or a better buffer.
What temperature were you operating this in?
I have been using mine between 8*c to 14*c
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If you can get pics that would help. I haven't heard or seen major issues with other SMG 8 owners as yet, and mine is still going good, though only went through thousand rounds.
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I am mechanically inclined, but if your zinc one isn't deformed it should take 2 mins. If your zinc one is deformed and can't fit out of your stock plate then some dremeling may be required.
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For the record. My triggers are still going strong. I might oil temper the surface of the hammer just in case it does wear. Its had over a thousand rounds no issues so far.
Actually I added an AEG spring as a buffer to the backplate to increase the ROF. Still full bolt travel too.
AK & Variants Picture Thread
in Weapons
Posted
Same thing happens on the FAL carbine conversions where the piston doesn't operate well unless there is a certain length of barrel in front of the gas block.