-
Content Count
379 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Blogs
Calendar
Posts posted by Dimitri MdP
-
-
hmm mixed feellings with that one.
While I love what WII Tech has done for the WE AK platform (still lacking a valve locker, for whatever reason), I believe WE internals on the AR platform are durable enough, specially anything produced in the recent years.
So... are they needed? probably not. Still might get some just because the outstanding WII quality
-
I heard that Hepa's trigger set net the best, a Wii or a WELL is better solution.
Well, Hephaestus is half the cost of WII's, and has much better quality and twice the pieces than Well's.
So to me, it's still the best option. Even if I have to drill, thread and screw in a M3 grub screw to secure the hammer head to prevent the typical separation.
Surface finish was ridiculously rough on the first batch, but they fixed that and come perfectly smooth since the very second batch.
- 1
-
For this price I can buy 3 of well ak so they start to beat the WE I think...
I'm confused, are you referring to the replicas or the mags there?
The Well is at 180-200USD, while WE's is 320, but can be regularly bought at $230. To me it's still worth the extre cash, without a doubt.
-----
Do the new mags still weigh a ton?
-
WE AK74: If it uses an old Marui style rear sight block/integrated gas tube, Does that mean the bolt carrier does not have a gas piston at all? Or the upper tube allows enough space to allow a faux gas piston through?
Guess you mean the Well AK74, right?
-
Sounds louder than the real thing
- 1
-
wait... is that an AKM type gas block?
Anyway... how's the build quality? -
Why isn't there a WE AS VAL yet
Because people get really nuts about the internal "realism", and the VSS / VAL is a striker fired weapon as opposed to hammer fired, which prevents the use of regular GBBR mechanics as the striker would be in the way of the nozzle and blowback unit.
I've been designing an alternative approach, with the striker acting as a piston and cylinder setup, so the bb propulsion was pretty much as a springer, while the bolt reset was taking care of by the GBB part.
I was sure I had a similar post here at Arnies from where most of the collaborations came from, but I cannot seem to find it... Anyway, I sort-of, kind-of tried the concept and it worked quite well, the gas was able to compress the springs using the gas piston without issues, which was the biggest concern. But I couldn't find a way to get the NPO VSS replica into my country, nor I had the funds for it, so the project is on hold.
-
Did suggest to remove the middle section as it appears the linkage of top and bottom are the same. Haven't had the chance to try it out for myself though.
nope, both the upper and lower thirds are the "female" type, while the central third has both male endings. Furthermore, the wall dimensions are different, so not even machining a "sex change" on one of them will make it work together
When making drum magazines for my WE RPK, I've spend A LOT of time and money on machinists that failed time and time again to make such arrangements, so I ended up just going the hobo way and used the upper third only, closing it at the base with a good thick chunck of steel epoxy. Surprisingly enough, it was tested up to the max of my low pressure regulator (180PSI) and it holds without problems.
So to make proper AS VAL mags, I would just use the upper two thirds, even cutting part of the middle one if necessary, then close it at the base with steel epoxy. But that's me. I do stupid irresponsible mods to my guns. So feel free to follow, just know that it might not actually hold the pressure and send a good chunk of steel epoxy flying towards your face. What I'm trying to say: do it entirely at your own risk. I'm not responsible if you follow stupid advice from someone on the internet
-
Now that's a whole new level of EPIC. Outstanding work!
Maybe you can convert the magazines by discarding the lower third of the internal tank, so it'll look much more convincing.
Which is the base gun btw? LCT?
-
Great. Can you check the if the nozzle return spring issue is fixed as well?
BTW, we are talking about a new gen of Well AKs, or are those parts just redesigned spares? -
So this should prevent the exploding rear trunnions, which was the biggest problem in the earlier gen. Too bad the price now has doubled.
-
Nice review. As for the "CM" brand, is not a brand at all. Just an acronym used by some websites for China Made guns / stuff.
Also CM-nnn are the typical model # for CYMA guns- 1
-
Between the back of the nozzle and piston head, normally, so the valve sits closer to the closed position.
Also, a weaker valve spring or weaker hammer spring would do the trick.
Is there any other way to do this?
Nope, I meant FG-Airsoft's LFS discs, some sort of CNC shims that goes inside the nozzle output part, right in front of the floating valve return spring, which restricts the nozzle output diameter, and therefore, the FPS.
Supplementing the floating valve at the back by gluing a shim there usually works OK too.
Weaker hammer springs normally don't change a thing, except rendering your gun unable to open the output valve at higher pressures. As long as the hammer has enough strength to open the valve, you can't change the FPS with the valve spring, the output valves return springs, or the floating valve return spring, as the valve can only open so much and stays open on by the valve locker. Spring tension has nothing to do with how much gas is expelled out of the valve, but even then, gas output has little to no effect on FPS due to the floating valve itself compensating pressure with volume
- 1
-
Awesome review, thanks!
So it's pretty much an M4 lol Really great they have that kind of hop ups with AEG-like nubs and VSR buckings and barrels, means you can use the full Maple Leaf combo
Intrestingly I noticed that the nozzle doesn't seem to have a very good sealing at least I didn't get any resistance when pushing it with all the holes shut.
Those types of seal cups expand at higher pressures. So doing that test slowly will provide no seal at all, but doing the exact same thing only much faster you'll see far better compression than in other type of seal.
- 1
-
I'm gonna ask the painfully obvious... have you tried different bbs?
-
The CO2 version is better, propably the WE CO2 mags are rare and the valve design is a scrap
WE CO2 magazine is not rare, it simply doesn't exist at all.
Does the WE gas mags work well in the Well guns, despite the different height inside the receiver? looks like it would leak between the gas route and the nozzle
-
Actually looks pretty much like Well mags. And weigh a ton, just like them
Item Weight (gram) 774 -
Try with the OEM nub, or better yet find a Maple Leaf concave one. In my experience Maple Leaf buckings never really go well with Prometheus flat nubs.
-
Hey! I sealed the pin and polished the bolt and its rails. Also installed a ML Autobot 60 degree(just had one lying around). FPS consistency is much better now, thanks for the suggestion! Tough there is some randomness in accuarcy after 55m(tough that maybe just the new hop-up).
Good to hear that.
About the accuracy, which barrel and which nub are you using with that Autobot bucking?
-
If you're loosing air though the pin, a tiny drop of thread locker (LOW torque) will help seal it.
The WE P90 is known to be one of the most consistent GBBRs ever, if not the most consistent, due to the internal gas reservoir acting as a sort of expansion chamber. So the inconsistency you're experiencing is a clear sign that something is wrong. It might be:
1) The floating valve failing to do it's job. If you're running NPAS, then that's your problem. If running stock floating valve, check the status of the valve and the spring, and make sure the valve is sealing when it's on the forward position.
2) The nozzle prematurely disconnecting from the hop chamber. Sometimes the nozzle will disconnect immediately from the chamber, so you'd be venting a lot of gas directly to the atmosphere instead of routing it to the blowback. Normal operation should make the bolt carrier move but the nozzle only disconnect from the chamber when it reaches max separation from the carrier, and only then retract.
Check if the nozzle is able to move freely in the bolt carrier and able to return just on spring tension, and function check for the nozzle to stay in the chamber until the right time. If not, a Maple Leaf Autobot bucking greatly helps to achieve that. -
I think the same, they are long-lasting - but how they accept dropping?
That's not an issue at all. I drop my mags all the time when fast loading, never had a single problem.
Dropping is totally safe. Falling on your gun mag first could potentially cause that lock to break... but better have a broken plastic lock, than have further gun damage or the magazine pot metal cracking.
-
I've read that before... but really, what's wrong with the plastic rear lock? I've never, ever, ever seen a WE mag fail there at all. And we're running 30+ mags in our 5 AKs in a weekly fashion.
- 1
-
Is the bolt still able to close and work properly?
-
Sold mine because under 15*C the gas efficiency dropped to rapid fire of 10 rounds per mag.
yeah... that's where you're supposed to switch to a higher pressure gas. 15ºC is definitely a temperature for propylene (that is, Red Gas / Map Pro)
WE AKS-74UN First Impressions (Pic heavy)
in Rifles (Gas)
Posted
Use the PMC. That should set you for the right type of receiver (non- side folder) and a longer barrel, which is a million times easier to cut to size than trying to extend the 74u