tquilha Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Hello, these are my first impressions of the M1918A2 BAR. This is the ACM clone version of the VFC BAR, and I have to say It's a BEAST! Historical and real steel reference here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M1918_Browning_Automatic_Rifle Right, back to airsoft. In the box, you get: BAR, one hicap mag, bipod, carry handle, battery (9.6v stick type), battery charger, a bag of BBs, an Allen key (to assemble/disassemble the carry handle) and a key to wind up the hi-cap. Pic: As you can see, the manual has no manufacturer ID, except "AY", and a reference "AY-A0001". Interestingly, it's a direct copy of a VFC manual, having reference to VFC for parts and technical support... It's full metal, but the stock and forearm are not wood, just plastic with a nice faux wood finish. Several bits are actually steel (tested with a magnet): bipod, front sight cover, magazine. All the rest is non-magnetic metal, aluminium or some alloy. It´s nicely finished in black, but the paint scratches easily. Anyone who wants this to look "WW2 authentic" will likely repaint it in a "parkerized" gray colour, so no big problem The mag is a steel shell, with M16VN type hicap internal mechanism. It was quickly converted to a lowcap, simply by changing the insides for those of a Marui VN low cap. It is compatible with VFC mags, they just need a little push in the bottom to fit in the magwell. My particular gun came a little too hot, chronoing 405-410 fps (measured with 0.2 g BBs), one spring change later and it's doing 350 fps. I haven't been able to skirmish it yet, so no idea on range, or hop-up efectiveness. It shoots quite nicely, without any feeding problems so far. One thing: like the original BAR, there is no semi-auto position. You have a fire selector with 3 positions: S (safe) A (Auto) and F (Full-auto?) A position is auto fire, with a slower ROF, F position is "let 'er rip!" The only problem I noticed so far is the cocking handle / ejection port cover system that allows acess to the hop-up. It opens, but won't close fully back. AFAIK, it's a generalized issue with these replicas, looks like one of the parts is badly shaped. Will post when I fix this. More pics: Pros: - It's a BAR! Cons: - cocking handle problem - paint scratches easily - need to go to the gym before I can skirmish with it... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danr Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Interesting. I got the Echo1 version, and it arrived with the carry handle and bipod attached to the gun, while it looks like yours came separate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tquilha Posted February 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Yes, mine came separate. The bipod is dead easy to attach. just unscrew the flash hider (it's 14mm CCW) fit the bipod, and screw flash hider back on. The carry handle needs some assembly, but I won't be using it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RSM Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 I want 2. 1 to keep in original conditions for wall mounting or similar...because it's a BAR dammit. The other to turn into a Clyde Barrow custom and made WW2-softers cry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danr Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Something like that? (Excuse the cell phone picture) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kojak Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Interesting. I got the Echo1 version, and it arrived with the carry handle and bipod attached to the gun... So they could Superglue the orange FH on, probably. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RSM Posted February 25, 2013 Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 *snip* Something like that? (Excuse the cell phone picture) Oh god yes! I was thinking if the barrel was shorter but from what I know, there was some variation between different custom jobs....how much work was involved in that build? Just thinking this, a 1911, zoot suit and daps and all the site would be missing is a Ford Model T.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tquilha Posted February 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 Fortunately, I won't have to chop my BAR up. Already have the M1928 Thompson for that look... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danr Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 Oh god yes! I was thinking if the barrel was shorter but from what I know, there was some variation between different custom jobs....how much work was involved in that build? Just thinking this, a 1911, zoot suit and daps and all the site would be missing is a Ford Model T.... I used this picture as the inspiration: http://thomasroche.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Clyde-Barrow-M1918-Browning-Automatic-Rifle-from-IMFDB-dot-org.jpg But then decided to go my own way with it a little bit. I roughly cut the barrel at its current length with the intention of chopping it even shorter (or cleaning up my cut, which would by definition shorten it). But my first cut ended up being pretty clean, so I just cleaned it up and left it as is. This took about an afternoon of my friend and I messing about with the gun. That included learning how to disassemble it (Echo1 wasn't kind enough to provide a manual or parts diagram), tuning the gearbox, chopping the barrel, and then reassembling it. The hardest part was fitting the front sight. Since I only had hand tools available, cutting the slot in the top of the barrel for the front sight was quite challenging. Now I want to bodge together a 1911 with the Hi Capa Extreme I have laying around, attach a Thompson foregrip, and find some way of attaching a Cutts compensator. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Imperator Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 Tquilha, my friend, where did you get it from, and for how much?It's an awesome piece of kit! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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