Django Moriarty Posted December 17, 2006 Report Share Posted December 17, 2006 I'd appreciate comments on the procedure for zeroing sights on an AEG. When I got my G36C a few days ago, I set up the sights inidoors using a target - then I realised I'd be a dead shot on anything that was 3m away. Oops. So, I worked out some geometry and designed a target which has two blobs, one above the other - you aim at the top one, and zero until the BB hits the bottom one. The idea is based on knowing the range to the target and deciding what range to zero the sights to. The spacing is worked out using the height of the gun's foresight above the centre of the barrel. For the G36C, the barrel-to-sight distance is about 75mm, and I did the numbers for a 'real' range of 30m and a target range of 3m. I got a distance between blobs of 67.5mm. The thing is, I haven't accounted for the effects of gravity or hop-up. Is a nominal 30m a sensible range to zero to for woodland? How can I compensate for gravity and hop-up (do I need to, or is that something that you account for in the field once you get a feel for your weapon over real distances)? Cheers, Link to post Share on other sites
Sale Posted December 18, 2006 Report Share Posted December 18, 2006 Depending on how you adjust your hop up, the trajectory might be really funky compared to a normal ballistic arc. Being as the trajectory is rather flat for most of the effective range and we're not exactly shooting for bullseyes, I would concentrate on zeroing the sights for windage and leave elevation alone. 30 metres is a sensible range to zero to, but the groupings might be rather large. 20 metres is better in that sense, but 10 metres will also suffice perfectly. -Sale Link to post Share on other sites
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