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Sale

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About Sale

  • Rank
    Regular Poser
  • Birthday 03/09/1983

Additional Information

  • Airsofter since
    1997
  • Toy collection
    Current guns:

    G&P Custom Noveske Carbine
    TM/G&P M41A Pulse Rifle
    TM/Guarder Bushmaster XM15 E2 10" w. EOTech 512.
    A&K M249 Para
    Sun Project Colt M16A1 Carbine 14.5"
    Youth Engineering MP5SD6
    KWC AR-15 A2 Delta HBAR (chopped and customized)
    Western Arms Jatimatic
    TM 5.1 Hi-Capa
    TM Glock 17
    Tanio Koba VP70M
    KWA/GRS Glock 19 Caspian w. tritium sights
    Digicon IMI Desert Eagle .44 Mag 6"
    Kang Nam Glock 30

    Past guns:

    TM G36C
    TM SIG SG551 SWAT (converted to 552 RIS)
    TM Steyr AUG Military
    CA M4A1 Carbine
    Maruzen APS-2 SV
    KSC Steyr TMP
    Maruzen KG-9 GBB
    WA Para-Ordnance 14.45 Combat plus
    Tanaka SIG Sauer P220
    KSC Glock 17
    CAW M79

    ... and some springers.
  • Country
    Hong Kong

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  • Website URL
    http://www.youtube.com/user/Glocktologist
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Profile Information

  • Location
    Finland (origin)

Recent Profile Visitors

767 profile views
  1. The manual shows how to get to it, and beyond that there's nothing specific that you should know. Just the basic things when disassembling any gearbox will get you through the job easily. The good fit between Real Sword part helps greatly with the disassembly and assembly process.
  2. I find the banana in Horsem4n's picture rather interesting. What's up with that? Certainly you can't eat it while wearing the mask... -Sale
  3. The gear ratio is 27,82:1 and on top of that the spring tension will be lower because the space for the spring is longer. I'd be confident with anything up to M160–M170. What I might do is switch the sector gear bearings to solid bushings. -Sale
  4. With the stock spring (which in the unit I tested provided 460 fps with 0.2 g BBs) even 8,4 V 1100 mAh "mini" type batteries were enough energy for a reliable cycle. It's just a lot slower than usual, so you really need to keep the trigger all the way back until the cycle has finished. The slow cycle doesn't mean that the battery and motor are struggling: the gear ratio is just really high torque, so the RPM is lower. If you switch to a higher voltage battery, be sure to get a MOSFET circuit with active braking. Otherwise you'll risk premature engagement, because the piston stroke is
  5. I cut off a piece of the rubber, but the BBs have not started to roll out. It just reduced the hop-up to a much lower level. I'd have to test-shoot it to find out exactly how low weight BBs I can use, but it's definitely reduced and the BBs aren't rolling out. The weight is in a way irrelevant, because it has way enough inertia to positively knock the the BB forward. Whether it's 150 grams or 250 grams doesn't matter. After the BB has been brought into motion, the key is the velocity and how far it is pushed. It could be a too hasty return stroke and/or a too long nozzle. (I'm not sa
  6. Hmm, now I've got a shredded #122 as well. I noticed the entire piston/nozzle assembly was loose within the bolt carrier, so it has definitely caused #122 to hit the blowback cylinder on the way forward. The piston head should definitely be redesigned. I think the Nine Ball Dyna piston head would make a great archetype. A larger front flange, ports to expand the O-ring and a beefy O-ring instead of a fragile "skirted" Y-ring. That's my wish list: A great seal but more durability. Another improvement would be some blue loctite on the flat-head screw #36 that secures the piston to the
  7. Well if you lock the screw in place with red locktite, it'll be nippy in the place where all the good music is when it comes apart. But I do have to admit that your roll pin solution is quite neat. -Sale
  8. Hmm, I was just looking at the bolt carrier and charging handle. Instead of trying to add stuff on a real aluminum charging handle, why not weld some additional metal on the steel bolt carrier instead? That should be easy even with basic welding tools, and you can finish it with a file. Then you could use any RS charging handles – drop-in. -Sale
  9. Here's a pair, representing 2/9 of my ink (by numbers, not surface or other difficult method). Made by Julia at Star Crossed Tattoo.
  10. Forged, yes, but not out of steel. You could TIG weld some aluminum on it, but it's really really tricky business. You need a seriously skilled welder for aluminum. I'd finish it with a file to get a nice flat surface. Hmm, then those steel charging handles must be finished poorly, because the steel bolt carrier with its polished contact surfaces doesn't seem to wear out the aluminum receiver and buffer tube it's moving in. But I do agree. The real AR-15 has an aluminum charging handle, so if only for realism the WE handle should be aluminum as well. The problem is that we're co
  11. A couple of reasons that explain the perceived difference in recoil between the WA and WE: - The WE is heavier, weighing the same as the real thing. Of course the underweight WA kick is going to feel better. - The WA has a loose recoil spring. The return stroke is sluggish to be honest. It doesn't slow down the bolt carrier on the way back much. Put a loose recoil spring in the WE if you want to feel the shock against your shoulder.
  12. The RS charging handle is drop-in into the WE, and functions 100% the same. They also feel exactly the same for the looks, balance... It's ridiculously close. (Save for a catch, read on...) For kicks I tried to fit the WE handle into the real one but it wouldn't let the bolt carrier all the way forward. Here's the reason: The WE handle has an enlargement at the front, which engages the WE bolt carrier. (The front of the charging handle has a lug to pull the BC back, with a hole through it for the gas key and gas tube.) The real charging handle does not have this enlargement, so it does n
  13. Another vote for the excellence of the TM MEU pistol here. It's lightweight and the grips are plastic, but everything else about it is great. I would much rather get tritium vials separately, and drill blind holes for them in the original Marui sights. Or better yet, just live with a black rear sight. You don't need dots in the rear sight that much: The front sight is most important, and you should be able to replace that fairly easily. Here's a pistol I built for a friend of mine, based on the TM MEU: Redwolf also have an article on the TM MEU and PGC metal kit going to
  14. Real steel uppers are stronger. That's why I have one on my Sun Project. The lowers are far more difficult (impossible?) to fit. It would be legal in Finland but I have simply chosen not to go through with that. Only pressure-bearing components (barrel, breech face/bolt/slide/whatever-faces-the-rear-of-the-casing) require a licence in Finland. -Sale
  15. Radiusing the gearbox explained in the following link. It's in Finnish, but the pics are more than self-explanatory: http://juoksuhauta.net/stories.php?story=mecha Gearbox radiusing is an effective method to reduce stress around the gearbox "cylinder window" corners, which are the frequent (only?) points of failure. It is not a 100% sure way to prevent a gearbox from cracking, but it does reduce the risk significantly. As much as I agree with Sc0rpi0n that you shouldn't draw too hasty conclusions based on one cracked gearbox, you could have gotten heads to turn much more easily with
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