vnb Posted December 2, 2007 Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 I have bit strange problem with my ak-47, in mechbox my ak-47 have hurricane's m100 set, guarders wheels and piston. It shoot normally semi-auto in body and out of body, but it dont shoot full-auto. When the mechbox is out from body it shoot full-auto and semi-auto, but when in body it shoot only semi-auto. I bought this used weapon two weeks ago and this is 1½ years old. Mechbox1 Mechbox2 Sorry, if u cant understand what i have writed. Link to post Share on other sites
zentaurus Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 either of two things: 1. when you put it into the body, the fire selector lever (pic below) on the right side of the mek is not notched properly is comes loose. (don't mind the colored marks, this is a lever i repaired ) 2. the wiring could be getting in the way of the plastic fire selector plate in the left side of the mek. cheers, zT Link to post Share on other sites
vnb Posted December 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 Could body block selectors moving with those other levers ? Or should i buy new levers on to mech box, selector switch or other ? The wires arent blocking selector, or any neither levers. But the selector is pretty slack. Link to post Share on other sites
fryxharry Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 Did you make sure the selector lever is mounted properly, not a tooth or two off? When I started working with my first AK this often happend when I put the gearbox back into the receiver, because I didn't pay enough attention to this detail. Link to post Share on other sites
vnb Posted December 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 Im sure, because always i open it the tooth are perfectly in there. Link to post Share on other sites
vnb Posted December 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 Now the full-auto works, but it dont work in that hole whats maked for full-auto it works between semi-auto and full-auto. Whats wrong ? Picture Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 I'm fairly certain the problem is that the lever has worn the alloy selector piece. It's difficult to describe in text but basically, where the selector lever sits on the alloy block (that goes through the body and locates in the inner selector lever assembly~as in Zentaurus' pic), the lever wears away at the 'lip' of the alloy block and you get some freeplay in the lever. The lever moves a mm or two before the inner mech does. On guns with auto as the 1st position, you don't get auto until you move the selector past the auto position (as you describe). On guns with semi as the first position (as with some of the clones) you don't get auto unless you lift the selector away from the body and push it past the stop pin. There is an easy fix if this is the problem. Take the arm off with the alloy piece and see if they move, relative to each other. On my AKs, I've epoxy'd these two parts together, there's no need for them to be separate. If this is the problem, and you fix them together, make sure you position them (before glueing) so the selector arm is as far 'up' as it will go in relation to the alloy piece (as it would be when on the gun) Does that make sense? It's one of those things that's really simple, but really hard to describe in text. Link to post Share on other sites
zentaurus Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 beat me to it, doc. and that's precisely the problem i'm having now cos i lost that part for my 035 so i substituted one from my PMC AK mek and the sub is loose so semi is lost sometimes additionally, the "looseness" can also come from the wear in the notching between the mek and the internal selector lever. was looking for a pic of that part in my HD but couldn't find one. can take a phonecam pic of the pic and post it if you still need one, vnb. cheers, zT Link to post Share on other sites
vnb Posted December 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 Errrmmmm, what i should epoxy ? Link to post Share on other sites
kronic Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 I'm fairly certain the problem is that the lever has worn the alloy selector piece. It's difficult to describe in text but basically, where the selector lever sits on the alloy block (that goes through the body and locates in the inner selector lever assembly~as in Zentaurus' pic), the lever wears away at the 'lip' of the alloy block and you get some freeplay in the lever. The lever moves a mm or two before the inner mech does. On guns with auto as the 1st position, you don't get auto until you move the selector past the auto position (as you describe). On guns with semi as the first position (as with some of the clones) you don't get auto unless you lift the selector away from the body and push it past the stop pin. There is an easy fix if this is the problem. Take the arm off with the alloy piece and see if they move, relative to each other. On my AKs, I've epoxy'd these two parts together, there's no need for them to be separate. If this is the problem, and you fix them together, make sure you position them (before glueing) so the selector arm is as far 'up' as it will go in relation to the alloy piece (as it would be when on the gun) Does that make sense? It's one of those things that's really simple, but really hard to describe in text. Beat me to it. Exactly what happened to mine, the minor movement at the hole in the selector plate causes loads of play at the tip (where you push it up/down with your thumb) ...If you can make sense of that. As stated hard to put into words.. Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 Errrmmmm, what i should epoxy ? Take the selector lever off, then take the alloy piece out that links the selector lever to the inner mechanism. (Don't lose the brass sleeve that sits inside the block) You need to epoxy the lever to the block so there's no movement between the two. As previously mentioned; ..make sure you position them (before glueing) so the selector arm is as far 'up' as it will go in relation to the alloy piece (as it would be when on the gun)... Don't put too much epoxy round the block otherwise it may rub on the body and restrict the movement. You just need to put a little in the reccess on the block where the lever sits then put a little on the joint when they are assembled. I'd post a pic but I've been without a phoneline since Friday night. I can only get online at work for now.... Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted December 13, 2007 Report Share Posted December 13, 2007 Sorry for the delay... You may have to open out the hole in the body slightly, depending on how much epoxy you use. Link to post Share on other sites
Mr.Nasty Posted December 29, 2007 Report Share Posted December 29, 2007 Well I have a selector switch that is of one part design, and I have issues with auto. Its the switch plus the metal part that connects to the arm mechanism, so no need for epoxy. I notice that when i switch from safe to auto ( its a tm mechbox with an A.C.M ak74 metal receiver by the way) it doesnt fire, but if I switch from safe, all the say down to semi, then back up to auto it will fire. Sometimes it just wont fire auto at all until i just push the switch up and down several times untill it does. I experience no wobble at all, and its really annoying. Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted December 29, 2007 Report Share Posted December 29, 2007 In your case, as Zentaurus mentioned previously, there may be wear between the 'arm' that pivots on the gearbox and the lever part. It could also be freeplay elsewhere in the mechanism. There are five points (four in your case) in the system where a little wear can lead to problems. It could also be a problem with the selector plate and/or it's electrical contacts. You probably won't 'feel' any freeplay due to the way the selector lever rubs on the receiver (which keeps it feeling 'tight'), you'll have to take it apart and inspect/test each item in relation to it's mating part. Link to post Share on other sites
zentaurus Posted January 2, 2008 Report Share Posted January 2, 2008 did you rewire to 16AWG, btw? space in the AK receiver is much tighter than on M4s or MP5s so you could also check the layout of the wiring on the left side of the receiver. sometimes the wires (especially in a metal receiver) get cramped too close to the plastic selector plate and gets in the way of the free movement of that plate. as doc said, there are a few points where the wiring layout will prevent needed play in the selector play. wiring layout has always been one of the things i had to check over and over when fiddling my AKs cheers, zT Link to post Share on other sites
Mr.Nasty Posted January 9, 2008 Report Share Posted January 9, 2008 I haven't messed with its wiring at all. My Ak used to be a CA slr-104, the mechbox gave me issues so I swapped it with a tm v3 from a spetz( which I installed non ported cylinder of course ). Anyway when the mechbox was in the spetz it worked fine with no issues. Once I changed to the metal body this annoying issue came up. I even tried dremmeling the rear left side of the mechbox so the wires have more room to rest so it doent interfear with the selector plate. I dont see how it could be the contacts since the aeg never gave me issues before. What I dont understand is if the selector switch works, and it moves the arm perfectly, why would it cut out on full auto, but work semi? Since my selector switch is a one piece design It should move the arm fine, if there was any issue I would feel binding of the teeth, or if wires were in the way, it would be tough to switch, but it isnt, its smooth and crisp. This drives me bonkers Link to post Share on other sites
Mr.Nasty Posted January 11, 2008 Report Share Posted January 11, 2008 I found the issue. All I had to do was pull out the copper prongs on the trigger assembly that the selector plate slides over and it worked perfectly. I guess after alot of usage they bend inward giving a weak connection. All I did was push them out a bit with the fathead screwdriver and it worked. Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted January 11, 2008 Report Share Posted January 11, 2008 Glad you got it sorted. It's easy to miss/overlook the simple solution(s) sometimes, you get convinced that it's a fault with a certain piece and miss the problem entirely. Link to post Share on other sites
zentaurus Posted January 12, 2008 Report Share Posted January 12, 2008 ditto to that, doc happy for you, nasty zT Link to post Share on other sites
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