WA Hammer mech

[Denton]

Ok,after giving the weapon to someone who says they know what there doing to fit a new hammer spring,no real reason they just had a better spare one and i'm after a metal slide. The thing is now in two pieces,they haven't fitted the spring and have left me with a strange problem,the hammer wont stay back. Now as it worked before with a 2 stage mech,as in it locked back slightly and then all the way i need to know how to set everything up inside to get it to do that again,at the moment it comes all the way back and shoots forwards again with not lock,slide on or off makes no difference (sorry if i'm not making sense) all the tech diagrams i've seen just show each part,not how they interact with each other to make it all work as it should. Does anyone have any pics or guides as to how to assemble the hammer and its connecting components?(nothing is broken or missing,just not working) its been driving me spare since about 9pm this evening and all the searching on this forum did was bring up famas topics,any help would be great.

 

*on this pic http://www.eliteairsoftuk.com/frames/techn...nd_standard.pdf Page2,its parts including 25,26 and those around it i need help with* And yes,this probably should be in the tech section but hardly anyone looks in there or gives advice,plus it just seems so simple to sort out.

[BigAl]

Try PMing Marcus, he's the resident WA 1911 expert. You've probably got one of the arms of th three leaf spring in the wrong place, but MArcus will be able to help you I'm sure.

[Marcus]

Alrighty, your sear assembly is screwed up. Easy mistake to make when putting a 1911 or 2011 back together.

 

It *should* look like this:

 

 

Note how in Figure 1. the sear (green) is in front of the disconnector (red) which in turn is in front of the trigger bow (yellow). The spring (light blue) should then be put with the middle prong resting on the flat area of the sear.

 

What you most likely have is one of these two:

 

 

In Figure 2a. the disconnector has slipped in front of the sear. At this point, the trigger bow could also have slipped between the sear and disconnector. This can happen if you press down on the disconnector without tension from the sear spring leaf, for instance.

To fix, either press the disconnector and ease the sear back "towards" you (rearwards bound), or push on the sear with something like a screwdriver to turn it one full revolution and back in place.

 

In Figure 2b. the trigger bow has slipped behind both sear and disconnector (or them in front, obviously). It doesn't matter if the sear and disconnector are mated, they still won't do anything, so resort to the same solution as to Figure 2a.

 

The hammer fails to lock at either half-cock or cock because the notch on the hammer "anchor" fails to engage the sear since it's not positioned correctly. The disconnector, the bow, or both, tilt the sear too much "towards" the grip back end for it to engage, but the mainspring is still engaged by the hammer strut with a mainspring housing in place, making the hammer swing freely but at tension.

 

My usual method for putting together a sear assembly, from empty frame, is to:

• Insert disconnect guide b (part 37) with spring under
• Push down on disconnect guide and insert disconnector (part 25) into it from back of grip
• Insert valve lock release (part 36)
• Hold sear (part 24) with a pair flatnose pliars at the leaf contact area to position it properly
• Push in sear pin (part 62) from left side, release sear with pliars and pin in place with sear leaf
• Slide in mainspring housing (part 31) and pin in place with a screwdriver or similar, to test hammer and make sure sear engages both half- and full cock
• If positive, slide down mainspring housing just enough to fit beavertail, then back up and push in MSH pin (part 66)
• ... etc.

This is what a full assembly minus beavertail should look like:

 

 

Hope that helped.

 

M.

 

Note: The drawings and photo refer to a WA SCW2 1911, but the sear assembly is carried over on all of WA's 1911s and 2011s including older versions. The only exception is the full-auto Prokillers which obviously work different

 

Edit: Don't give your weapon to someone who'll give it back in pieces

[BigAl]

Way ta go Marcus! Full of usefull information as usual.

[Denton]

Marcus,

 

Thank you. That was the most in depth response i've seen,helped me no end. After a little time and effort following your guide i have it done,and it now seems so clear,if you ever have the time i urge you to write the basic guide to all things 1911,you know so much it would be a shame not to have your own sticked topic for others,such as my self to get valuable infomation from when problems such as this arise. Again,thanks.

[psgP2]

Very, very helpful info there Marcus!

I just bought a "broken" Infinity 3.9 very cheap and after a bit of searching, I found that the sear spring was inserted wrong. That made the hammer disfunctional.

After a bit of tweaking the gun now works perfect.

[snowman]

Hi Marcus,

 

I've got a PO, and everything looks correct, but the trigger doesn't always return forward after each shot.

 

Any ideas?

 

Cheers.

[psgP2]

Snowman, I experienced the same problem with my Infinity. I had to bend the metal"thingy" attached to the trigger ( the metal arm that goes on both sides of the mag.).

Does the trigger return properly with the magazine removed? If it does then try bending the metal arm outwards so the magazine doesnt interfer with it.

[snowman]

Snowman, I experienced the same problem with my Infinity. I had to bend the metal"thingy" attached to the trigger ( the metal arm that goes on both sides of the mag.).

Does the trigger return properly with the magazine removed? If it does then try bending  the metal arm outwards so the magazine doesnt interfer with it.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Thanks - I'll take a look at the trigger bow (Think that's what it's called).

 

Cheers