zeaken

I have done some more tinkering with these grenades. 2 of them are totally leak free, the third has a ripped o ring and the valve appears to be fubared. for the ones that do work adjusting the timer is tricky because either i get about 2 seconds or i get about 10 seconds. personally i enjoy keeping the fuses low so no one has a chance to get away from these things. when the leaking stopped i am happy to report that all of the bb's fly out except those pressed against the ground. I have not broken anything from tossing them but they are going to be doing some rough concrete to

These grenades basically work like an m203 with the variant that they have a timer. The timer appears to work by venting gas out and is not resistance based. When you pull the pin and let the spoon fly the plunger instantly shoots up and will begin hissing gas from the top. The gas let out appears to taper off and then kaboom. I am not great with these things but that leads me to speculate its based on the pressure of the gas which makes for a more consistent timer. Noise level: The detonation of these grenades is clearly audible unlike the tornado grenades which tend to just hiss. In ter

Well recently i had to buy some replacement parts for my ghk kit to get her online so i picked up a few of these grenades from ehobby since they were back in stock. Proarms is known for there plastic m203 shells but no review or feedback seems to exists for there hand grenades. Feeling lucky i picked up a 3 pack for $80 + hk ship. initial impressions: upon checking them out they were really need looking, easy to hold and didnt rattle or do weird things. The outside is made out what appears to be an abs plastic. The spoon is made from a plastic nylon for increased durability. A

just replaced my part 66 with one of the steel ones from the warstore and now its working flawlesly again. I will be putting the gun through its paces at 32F (or close to 0C for you people and your fancy metric). it will be playing in freezing rain with 5 mags so if foul weather is to knock a gun offline this weekend shall be a good test for the scar.

I just broke my hopup and my replacement plastic piston at the same time >_< i am about 5-6k rounds in, hopefully my bolt wont break, I am going to have a npas piston and metal hopup brought in. Their is no price incentive to make me want to buy the bolt so i am holding off and hoping

looks like problem one you had snorkleman is the exact same problem i had as it broke the exact same way and everything. my replacement is currently functioning fine but i have plans to upgrade the piston when i get a chance to or this one breaks after the weather breaks and i finally skirm it

Well the easiest way is to have a complete part sent to them. I have a spare coming in for just that purpose so anyone who takes this on doesnt have to fight with some one elses shoddy measurements

Ra-tech sent me an email back already they are shipping me a replacement part for $10 which I suspect does little more then pay for shipping on the other end. Looking to avoid a repeat of the situation via plastic failure I am looking for anyone with machining skills to build a replacement part out of metal. If you have metal skills and are willing to take on the task let me know and we can talk price for it.

i did a moderate amount but did no mag dumping except to test to see if it could

Mine just encountered its first problem The piston has sheared in half. In watching the motions carefully i think it was caused by bad design more then bad product. The trigger is reset by the bolt moving back but as the trigger locks back it pops up right after it locks down. When its popping up i suspect (i dont have a slow motion camera and a clear receiver to prove it) its striking the bottom of the piston as the piston is perfectly exposed for that to happen. When to mix that knocking and gas so cold it can spew out still in liquid form right onto piston which is made of plastic...

I do get double feeding once and a while. It only happens when in full auto. It seems to happen when the gun is low on gas more then not. I rarely have more then one double feed per mag when shooting in full auto.

Well unless wgc has free shipping on it i bet it will come out the exact same price or higher compared to ra-tech or evike for us state side people. good to know i didnt experience to much skimming though

shipping was free for me since i went in on the pre order but there website said free shipping on orders over $200. i will see if i can dig it up

ra tech is where i bought mine but unless you want to place na order of 200+ in mags you might have to deal in evike

Well i did some ranging this morning and i can tell you that with .2 g&g i was reaching out a little farther then a tm was. on a hot summer day instead of snow i am sure the range would push well beyond that. In semi auto i could easily pick off human sized targets at max range of this gun in the freezing cold. The range was consistant and the accuracy is directly comparable to your average stock aeg. toss a tightbore and a new hopup bucking and i am sure it could be improved even more. Full auto spread is nothing like an aeg on full auto. At the max range of this gun in full au

turns out it was a bolt stop. not wanting to deal with the issues i simply removed it and now the gun functions fine and doesnt have a piece of metal flopping out

It turns out this was already loose even when i first took it apart for the review! look at the lower right corner of the magwell and then drift back and you will see the piece of metal pointing down out of the mag well and the loose tension spring flopping about. this thing has probably been loose since i got the gun! edit: its the small sliver of metal, not the fatter piece

I went through another 300ish rounds last night and i have encountered my first "problem" when i went to change mags i noticed that there was a stick of metal flopping out of the receiver and i thought "oh, that cant be good". I look and find the pin has popped loose just behind the mag well. When the pin popped loose it cause a tension spring to stop holding the random piece of metal in place. Having a long history with vulgar words and frustration with tension springs i decided i will take it to to the local gas guy to put it all back in place. In the mean time i ripped the bolt ou

yeah, this would not do it, its pot metal

how does mixed results sound? fridge magnet that came in with a credit card offer - only the stock neodynium magnet that has about 20lb of face lifting power - stock, dust cover, a little on the front sight, and receiver. I think my original assumption might be right and we have pot metal on our hands as the second magnet is overly powerful.

awesome, well being wrong about that isnt bad

I will be trying out a variety of inner barrels and try and snap some pictures in the process. i want to find out how insane the fps change is if i boost the inner barrel from stock form to psg tightbore length oh and sorry about the butchery of my english in the review. It wont let me go back and correct it all.

ok, that puts the bolt movement about the same between the two guns then. I actually dont know of any ak varients where the bolt moves as far as the real steel including the tanio kobia. maybe an external rig would make it feasible but i dont think its practical or even possible to get full mags with the gas consumption required to do so. A clear draw back on paper. Since i can load any more pictures now that i am at work again i will give you a little feed back on shooting this thing. What sold me on the gun was this video: The blow back was loud, it rattled the gun around

Some more pics of the innards. The mag well Close up of the bolt next to a real steel bolt. A look into the receiver with the bolt out A real steel receiver for comparison. they are not as similar when it comes to the trigger assumbly as i had hoped but its airsoft

To the internals! After using a screw driver to have to pop the dust cover up (which is not fun mind you and is quickly heading away from really tight tolerances and into just plain annoying) i was greeted with this. Anyone who owns a real ak will instantly see its relation to the real steel. This design is simple, crude, and wonderfully effective The grip on the GHK is not like an aeg grip. it does not suffer from the bloated design required for motors. The real steel is so skinny that most people used to aegs will find it tiny by comparison. When i removed the grip i thoug