Utty

I think the trigger safety could be relatively easily disabled, judging from the exploded diagram. It looks like a matter of disabling the pivot movement between trigger and trigger bow?

Hmm, that does sound more logical. Except perhaps with a completely empty mag, which is thereby full of atmospheric air - which would be trapped in the gas tank with a sealing valve. The leaky valve would allow the air to escape when filling with gas? I dunno. I just seem to remember, years ago, someone testing mags with both sealing and non-sealing valves, and getting more shots out of the non-sealing. Maybe you could do a comparison, if you can find a tiny O-ring (perhaps scavenge from a cheap, refillable gas lighter) and stick it on the TM mag's fill valve, and see if you get fewer or more shots per gas fill.

greenbull: the advantage of a non-sealing fill valve is that you get more liquid gas into the magazine by blowing out excess gaseous gas. In a magazine with a sealing valve, some of the capacity will be taken up by vapor instead of liquid, because the liquid can't push the vapor back out through the fill valve when you're gassing up the magazine.

For those wondering about the type of hop-up on the KWA TT-33, have a look at the manual: http://kwausa.com/files/4613/3701/7768/MMD18_TT33.pdf Go to the exploded diagram and find part 91. It's a tiny ball bearing, I'm afraid.

Funny, a local shop has had the CO2 mags for a while now: http://hardballshoppen.dk/product_info.php?products_id=16548&osCsid=6e059ef48c791752263da5b86975aa68

The screw that fixes the piston head to the piston. If it's tight enough, the washers won't go anywhere. I used to glue them in place, but I don't bother anymore.

At exactly the twelve o'clock position, mind. Most stock AEGs have an Angle Of Engagement that is slightly premature, this is fixed by adding washers of lightweight material between piston head and piston, effectively moving the piston backwards a few mm when seated fully forward in the cylinder. It also involves removing the second piston tooth, and in most cases, shortening the third. I just cut the second and third teeth at an angle that clears the incoming first sector gear tooth.

Don't worry. S'long's you got a MOSFET, your gun will be fine. Remember to set correct Angle Of Engagement between piston and sector gear.

As always when tightening threaded components, by finger-gefühl and common sense. You can do the cloth grip thing first, then tighten a little bit more with the tool.

Andyjp posted a useful link in the news thread, not a guide per se, but it tells you all you need to know nonetheless.

What's the takedown procedure to get to the bolt and inner barrel? What type of inner barrel and hop rubber are we dealing with?

Why would you need to replace the barrel in order to use lipos? Or the gears and motor, for that matter? The gun is equipped with a microswitch trigger, so, no.

Good review, covers most important areas. Mechbox is nice, a V2 with some of the benefits of a V3: motor cage, external wiring. If the gun is yours to keep, remember to radius the cylinder window corners. Obvious downsides, perhaps, are unique nozzle and hop-up unit.