Domz
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Posts posted by Domz
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Bleh, piston (I think) just went, 3rd skirmish, Ill finally get around to getting the piston spacer then.
Serves me right for using a really 8.4v battery as opposed to the "8.4" they give you.
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Mine came at 330ish, havent chronoed properly but the BBs going same speed visually as my G36 which is 330, and got about that on a can test.
Seems to depend where you buy it from etc, in some places they degrade for you in others you dont. Havent heard 550 ever though.
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Hite your eye looks a little close to the iron site
What make is that? Looks good
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Any news?
he barrel length the maximum is 15.8 inches long then inches and finally 9.1 inchesWhat is the other adjustable length>?
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Thats true the CA36 series seems to have the same problem, but on that its the selector on the gearbox usually I heard, on mine I think it was the selector...
Skirmished mine yesterday, worked fine with a new 3300 8.4v battery which is good! Semi auto problem wasnt too bad either, only 3/4 times in a whole day.
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Probably an obvious answer but wondering why the barrel looks really short on the SA80, is it a standard hand guard on a "carbine"? (cant remember the designation)
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if it fails (it probably will fail), i will try a 8.4V battery with the M120 spring in it. if this fails, i will put back the stock (m100) spring.
If the piston fails with a strong spring, a weaker spring would make the piston more likely to break in the R85. And yeah it might work with an 9.6, if youre feeling lucky
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If youve still got a 19 tooth piston then a 9.6 volt battery is a bad thing!
Blowback plate the cocking handle will be glue on for a mk1 and welded on for mk 2 guess they reverted to different box.But mine isnt EITHER it's a screw on handle with a perpendicular hex screw which you screw in to keep it on, and is in a coloured box.
Still has semi problem occasionally though.
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Bushing size is definately somewhere, have a look around the start of the thread or do a search of the forum for R85 bushing size or something.
These have already been awensered before in this thread if you can be assed to search. the way you can tell mk 1 and mk2 is mk1 = colored box and cocking handle glued on mk 2 = plain box and solid cocking plate. (they are the main differences you will see. there is no yellow battery it was a proto type (far east said this) and as for replacement parts its all in the this thread.And yet I have a coloured box and the charging handle attached with a screw thread and a perpendicular hex screw, dunno what you mean by "solid" plate though.
So ?
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Not sure I know which one would be best, also depends on the power of the rifle in question etc. But systema seem quite good in my personal experience but any upgrade one thats soft/for low power should be fine... If you're still looking on redwolf heres one
http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airs...ail?prodID=8519
But just search any site for hop up.
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It should work fine yeah, but if it does increase the RoF and you hadnt done the piston spacer kit (top ones the right one btw) then it might F the piston, so probably use the standard free battery until you have the new piston kit in...
As for the 2 items, the first means that it will take ANY standard 16 toothed piston with that kit installed, whereas the second still has 18 teeth (well, 17 with the second removed) which increases reliability over the standard one a little (I THINK,) in which case you could get just that piston instead of the kit, OR the kit with a normal eg. TM 16 tooth piston, which to me sounds the better option.
This is almost all based on hearsay and research over the web though to be totally honest.
As for the 510mm barrel, M16 is basically the same length. For example I tend to use madbull python tightbores at the moment;
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Perhaps its kind of a MkIII or they just decided to go back to the original box, mine certainly doesnt seem to have some of the mkI faults and was in that box.
Did the original have a hex screw on the charging handle, anyone?
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Almost all shops would have the new spring and tightbore theyre standard parts, the tightbore is any 510mm tightbore (m14 is pretty similar...)
Best upgrades would be a new standard piston and a piston spacer kit available from redwolf which will make it more reliable.
Maybe a hopup bucking, mine isnt that brilliant but its OK.
If you could find the real laser/torch module you could attach that, otherwise bolting on rails would be unrealistic but possible.
Airsoft scotland has an R85 specific battery BUT if the RoF increases it may break the piston if you dont go for the piston spacer option above.
As for telling if its mkI or II, if the battery is yellow I think its MkI but if its silver it could be either. The bolt was more wobbly on the I and II should come in a plainer box, yet mine came in the coloured box and still seems to be a later version.
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Wow M4fanatic that fixed it! How weirdly random a fix. Thanks anyway
So far, so few problems except that. Semi seems ok and no handguard wobble...
Anyway as for the charging handle staying back: if I pull it straight back it goes forwards. If I pull it back and then down, it stays, or use the lever it stays.
Dust cover is fine on mine.
My safety can be pushed too far but its not hard to push back.
Maybe we have a v3?
Went back to original box yet not busted... charging handle seems pretty strong even without having done up the hex screw on it yet. -
Just got mine a few hours ago
Out of personal interest, do other peoples bolts lock back on their own? I have to push the tension release lever down to get mine to lock back. Again not a problem, just wondering if they've changed the mechanism to earlier models.Same on mine.
Worryingly mine came in the first batch coloured box. Hopefully its a mk2 nonetheless. Any way to tell except the box?
So far when firing the hopup seems a bit nasty but apart from that so far so good.
EDIT: Erm, my bolt is now stuck back??? It wont come forward beyond where it should slide past the hopup unit....
Doesn't look like its stuck on the hopup, whats going on?? -
Hmm the whats painted/whats not combo looks good in principle yet it just doesnt look quite right, perhaps still too light on my screen. Id be tempted to go a very dark green or whatever combats you wear, pick one of those colours. Hard to say on a white background... hmm.
Im keeping mine black for now...
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(Sorry, not letting me edit)
Request for people with star g36k handgaurds:
What can you stick in the bugger without a dremmel? 20mm? less? You can get the foregrip at ehobby for ~$30, but then an outer barrel is a necessity... only thing I've seen so far is a ps90 barrel, but it's a bit long.
If you could also measure the standard g36k barrel, from end to and and from end to flashhider, that would be great.
For those who have no clue what i'm talking about, I'm trying to replace the outer barrel with a silencer... for the g36c users who still have no clue... Well, you don't have an outer barrel
You cant really fit anything more than 2mm wider than the outer barrel through it without making it wider if its similar to the CA.
Standard barrel is ~363 to the start of the flashider, then flashider is another 5-6cm
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Good point maybe. There is a spring release on the gearbox somewhere on the G&G...
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If I got the time I possibly might and when mine finally arrives (cmon.....)
Reliability, apparently the piston can be weak. If the gears arent lining up reshim them.
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If this is not a great gun for someone who is not looking to mess with the internals let me know. Right now I have one of the new G&G M4 plastics and a TM P90 so I am all for guns that won't require much work to actually play with.
In that case Id recommend not opening it at all and keeping the warranty valid? Then if the piston does go, just send it to them! S'what Ill be doing probably.
And you might want to ask them to change the spring to the fps you want, maybe put a piston spacer kit in but that gets a little detailed.
Dunno about the other points sorry... Battery might well be a bit too long.
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Niiice, wish there was urban near me...
a dummy taser? You should somehow get it firing BBs at really low power, single action even.
Although it looks fairly expensive.
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Well it might come a little "warm" anyway if youre in the UK!
Reliability, piston and bushings are the 2 things Ive seen complained about.
Im no expert, but a tightbore or hopup ...should... solve the problems, did for my G36k, but I cant say for sure... Youre using good-spec BBs I take it?
*2 more days*
Cmon... -
So rsov stocks the 18 tooth pistons for the G&G and Army. The general consensus seems to be to buy a few as a worst case scenario right? That or the G&G dapter?
Mines not here yet so cant say first hand but from what Ive heard, either a spacer or a spare piston or two would be a good idea unless you live near a shop that sells them...
With mine, I ordered the spacer and the R85 separately (could only find the spacer overseas anyway, only cost £10) and if/when the piston breaks, Ill ask the R85 store to fit the spacer, under warranty.
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Hmm, dont like the aimpoint on it personally...
The ACOG looks OK imo though, if a cheaper SUSAT doesnt turn up itll have to be an ACOG for me, or just iron sights...
Mines ordered and should be here in a few days...
G36 Picture Thread
in Weapons
Posted · Edited by Domz
The CA G36k barrel length is ~363 (actually slightly less maybe 360 but the flashider covers a few more too), duno if G&P is exactly the same though.
Debatable using a longer barrel, some seem to think it makes no difference.
Apparently once over 363mm it makes little difference, but therefore 270-360 it might be worth it. If you dont already have a tightbore I'd say go for a new tightbore or the k length if you're going to a k.