Stealthbomber

Because the review database is something of a failed experiment, much like the auctions section. It seems far more straightforward to simply request people use the forums as they should be:- That is, to use the technical section for its intended purpose and the review section for its.

Well... Dare I ask, does your AGM M4 have a bump stop inserted in the upper? Mine doesn't.

Erm, okay... I was actually talking about whether the bolt carrier hits against the outer edge of the barrel extension. I must admit, I dunno if the tab on the end of the charging handle is what takes the impact instead though.

Erm, hang on... I said the bolt was the plastic part. That's the thing you get (in aluminium IIRC) for $160 For $250 you get the bolt AND blot carrier. The stock bolt carrier isn't plastic. It's pot metal with a tiny steel insert where the bolt catch is supposed to lock it. The RATech bolt carrier is, I think, Steel. That's an interesting point. I wonder if the built-in "barrel extension" in the AGM gun actually causes the bolt assembly to come to a stop more forcefully than in the original design. Could this be what's causing the cracks people see in the back of the

$150 buys you the bolt - the part that's plastic on the AGM gun. $260 buys you the bolt and the bolt carrier. That's the whole thing that whizzes backwards and forwards. On green gas your bolt carrier takes quite a hammering (especially if the bolt catch works) and a replacement bolt carrier will cost you $100 at least. A steel one from RA-tech will cost $130. Perhaps it's prudent to buy the whole lot at the same time and receive it all pre-assembled and ready to go?

Mine is currently in bits again while I repaint the receiver and I took a look at the f/a at the same time. I agree about the spring but I also think the casting of the part that locks into the ratchet is a bit soft and rounded. As well as replacing the spring I'm going to try and sharpen the front edge slightly with a dremel sanding drum.

A bit of democracy at work... I gotta say, I think the threads for the WE and AGM M4s are kinda raging out of control. It's getting to the point (IMO) where people simply can't find information because the threads are too big to find it easily. Would you rather I close these threads (which are, after all, supposed to be reviews of the guns) and then, instead, we carry on discussing specific issues by posting threads about the issue in the tech forum? It seems, to me, that it'd be making better use of the forums AND it'd be a lot easier for people to find fixes for problems if

Never let the facts get in the way of good writing, eh?

I don't think there's many proper "lemons" really. Thinking back through this thread, very few people have arrived and said "My gun wouldn't work and it's broke". If anything, mine seems to have been one of the poorer guns. Even so, almost all the problems are stuff you can fix with a bit of tinkering and some initiative. leaky mags and dodgy hop-ups can be repaired with a bit of tinkering. About the only real show-stopper is when the bolt splits if your shoot with green-gas for a couple of thousand shots.

When the way something's built causes it to malfunction, I call that a design fault. TBH, I was trying to edit my post but the forums wouldn't allow me. I wanted to add that a short pull on the charging handle or, as you say, the bolt carrier not returning fully home, would be what causes this. I just wanted to point out that this isn't a random "huh? My trigger does nothing!" moment. There IS a reason for it which can be reproduced at will. Like I said, if this ISN'T what's causing it or other people had already worked this out then feel free to ignore me.

Apologies if this has already been addressed. I was just browsing this thread and thought I might comment. I've seen this happen on the G&P and AGM M4 as well and, looking at the mechanism, I think of it simply as a design fault rather than a malfunction. What happens is this... If you set the fire-selector to auto before operating the charging handle the hammer latches against the hammer lock rather than the semi-auto sear. Once the hammer is held by the hammer lock the trigger is disabled and the only thing that can fire the gun is the action of the bolt carrier moving f

I wouldn't worry about buying the AGM M4 too much. Rumours suggest that the JG gun will be a copy of the WE M4 and, frankly, it's already clear that the WE gun isn't being supported by the after-market anywhere near as much as the WA system is. It remains to be seen how the Boyi gun turns out but they're not usually especially great. They produce a decent range of electric AKs and an "adequate" range of rather similar M4s. The thing that really worries me about Boyi/DBoys is the state of some of their after-market components. A lot of their mag catches, triggers, sights and other

I've gone into great detail about the replacement hop-up EBB are selling on at least 3 occasions in this very thread.

Noooo.... Quite the opposite. I can see I'm gonna have to take some pictures of this. On mine the pivot point for the hop-arm is a tiny bit too high up. The result of this is that the spring can never push the arm far enough down because the opposite end of the arm is restricted by the adjuster. If you were going to modify anything it'd be to file something off the top of the adjuster end of the arm. That'd allow the other end to pivot further down and actually apply a bit of hop to the BBs. As it is I suspect the best solution would be to heat up the arm and then

Bingo. It just occured to me that the example I'm about to make is WE related as well but anyway... I suspect this is a similar thing to how, at first, WE flogged their Hicapa to a variety of different people who sold them to the public. If summat goes wrong with the gun you need to send the gun back to Bloggs Armaments or whoever rather than talking to WE about it. It seems that WE is constantly revising their guns and a wholesaler who chooses to buy (for example) 500 version 1 guns could end up in trouble if the gun is revised after they purchase their batch. Course, they g

It uses the original barrel, bucking, hop-arm and aduster. It also, erm, doesn't seem to work. The holes for the hop arm to fit into are drilled a tiny bit too far up and, as a result, the arm doesn't have the range of movement that it should have. Note that you CANNOT fix this by JB-Welding a blob onto the front of the arm. The problem will still remain because, as the front part tries to go down the back part will STILL be restricted in its movement inside the adjuster. The only way you could fix this would be to heat up the aduster arm and bend it very slightly in the mi

You could do all that. Alternatively you could just chop a couple of inches off the end of the barrel with a hacksaw. Long as your careful and de-burr the end it's no big deal. Top tip: If I ever chop a barrel I stick it in a leccy drill afterwards and (with the drill running) I file the front face of the barrel to make sure it's nice and square. After that I use a knife to de-burr the inner edge of the barrel. *EDIT* Just noticed THESE.

One thing that I've noticed... Basically, if you try to use an AEG barrel nut on the AGM M4 the first thing you'll realise is that the hole through the middle is too small. That's no biggie. 5 minutes with a dremel will sort it. The next problem is that (once the hole has been enlarged) an AEG barrel nut will only screw on by a single thread. Not good. However... If you buy the steel barrel EBB are selling you'll find that it has a thinner collar where the barrel clamps to the receiver. You'll still need to enlarge the hole through the middle of the barrel nut but, once you'

Thread tidied. Feel free to post your nonsense HERE and keep this thread clear for people who actually want to share information about the gun in question. Thanks.

To put my trianspotting health & safety hat on for a moment... You probably shouldn't be using s drill bit as a drift. The metal should be hardened to the point where it could shatter and send splinters of drill bit all over the place. Even if it doesn't shatter a drill can crack sharply and if you happen to be holding it at the point where it cracks you could end up with a lump of drill bit stuck in your thumb. To be honest, with the amount of cheap & nasty drill sets on the market these days (usually those gold coloured drill bits) this isn't a huge concern but, as a rule

Well.... A "proper" punch (or "drift" as they're properly called) for a roll-pin is usually dual diameter. The point is thin enough to slip through the middle of the pin (which locates the drift centrally) and the rest is a diameter slightly smaller than the pin. It's far more common for a drift to simply have a flat end though. If you want to do it properly you can get a set of drifts (such as THESE) off eBay pretty cheap. Do a search on eBay for "pin drift" or "pin punch". Obviously, make sure the set you buy is small enough to work with your pin. Instead of doing it pro

To remove the hop-up you need to separate the barrel from the receiver which means unscrewing the barrel nut. You'll either need water-pump pliers or a proper tool to do this... assuming it isn't already loose. Most of em seem to BE loose out of the factory. The hop-up actually lives in a tiny space at the front of the receiver. When you remove the front end the hop-up and inner barrel will come away from the receiver at the same time. You MUST keep an eye open for the tiny little spring which lives in the hop-up unit. As you slide the hop-up away from the receiver it's free to s

Are you sure the nozzle is physically pushing the BBs through the hop-up? Here's a thought (in case you haven't tried it yet)... Whip the stock and buffer tube off. Load a mag with a few BBs (but no gas) in it. Use the charging handle to pull the bolt carrier back. Now use summat like a screwdriver through the back of the receiver to push the bolt carrier forward SLOWLY again. Do the BBs still roll out? Now try the same thing again but give the bolt carrier a good shove forward. Does it happen now? If it happens all the time you can be pretty sure it's because the nozzl

I disagree with most of that, as do the majority of other people. The gun is designed to work with 134a. People use it with propane and there are problems as a result. Red gas is ASKING for shrapnel wounds and a broken gun IMO. A heavier buffer and stronger (or pre-tensioned - that's "spacers" to you) buffer spring will absorb more recoil so the shooter feels less. Personally, I think people should learn to enjoy the recoil as it is rather than trying to make it more and more violent. In the end, all you're gonna do is cause damage to your gun due to the extra shock.

What'd you mean you're having a tough time? You hammer the 2 pins out and the sight slides off. There IS a threaded hole hidden underneath the sling loop but it doesn't seem to have a grub screw in it. If you're struggling to remove the front sight, knock the pin out that's holding the sling loop in place and check there's no grub screw in there.