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About lmission

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  1. the 7.2 battery is simply too weak to cycle the piston back with any consistency for a long period of time. as the battery loses charge, you 'll see that compression rate wanes -- the cycle has to go back all the way back and all the way forward consistently. the motor will slow down and not pull as hard until it simply won't work anymore. with a hotter battery, you will obviously get more consistency in cycle for a longer period of time and bb's will fly further out for a longer period of time. with 7.2V it's...it's...well...i wouldn't try it. i'd say minutes of decent flight time
  2. no. don't try it. the original battery will drive the gun but ROF is awful and the bb's simply will not fly far. this is why so many of us use another, better 8.4V battery and have chosen to go with the 16 teeth piston. a real 7.2v battery just won't cut it on a real airsoft game.
  3. i don't want to sound rude, mate...but please read this thread from the very beginning -- it is not an old thread. you will learn about ALL the issues related to this gun. you will have your answer restated many times if you do this. but how about this for a straight answer: change the piston from 19 teeth to 16 teeth but to do this you need to put a spacer on the front before the piston head if you change the piston, you must also change the sector gear to standard set (remove the sector gear and replace with gear from any standard 16 tooth gun) do this immediately and your gun wi
  4. my experience with it is that after ALL of the mods and questions i have with this...that it still costs LESS than a G&G and STAR even with the upgrades/fixes/mods. and...in my opinion, because of the mods/fixes it becomes a better gun than either of them. total cost so far of all my mods is about $150USD for a gun that cost me $130USD. so...roughly $300USD and in my opinion, a much better gun than a G&G and STAR. my advice is...if you want a good secondary that is a good gun but but don't find the mods/fixes a problem, then do it. i haven't regretted it because working
  5. cheers mate! thanks for keeping us all informed. looking forward to all your other show reports.
  6. hi, as far as i know (and i am on the web monitoring for R85 all the time) this is the only thread that addresses the Army R85 problems and the members have kindly shared all of their problems and solutions. there is not one site for it, although in the very near future, i may have a go at it because i have all the problems fixed except two. when i've got them all, perhaps i will post. for reshimming ANY AEG, follow this chart: this chart is from 21st Century airsoft and is a must for anyone upgrading/reshimming their AEG. i have used it to with great results for quite a f
  7. this is good news. any chance on a price list for this? also...please help me on this. i've taken apart the lower gearbox assembly many times and have tried to straighten out the trigger switch to try and fix the semi/auto malfunction. i can't do it. no matter what, the switch will not change to single shot. it's very frustrating. i need to know what kind of switch this thing takes. there are a few available for generic m4 and m16's and ICS makes a switch assembly for the m4 series that is on sale for $21USD. would these things fit? if not, would your friends be able to make
  8. there are many, many, many ideas for modification of pistons, etc... on airsoft guns. use the search engine on this site to find some tips. one thing i can relate to you is this combination of upgrades because you are doing it anyway: POLYCARBONATE PISTON METAL SPRING GUIDE UPGRADE THE SPRING TO A HIGHER RATING ALUMINUM PISTON HEAD METAL OR ALUMINUM CYLINDER HEAD this entire upgrade will be roughly $75 USD and can be done by anyone. this is true for the R85 because of the two piece mechbox design. this is a very easy upgrade and will do the following: higher FPS
  9. WARNING: DO NOT BUY METAL PISTON FOR YOUR GUN. you will run the risk of stripping all the other gears at the bottom of your mechbox because it is steel on steel shredding it. it is common for pistons/piston heads to somehow break inside a mechbox and is an acceptable price to pay for aggressive play. think of it this way, friend. pay $15 USD for a POLYCARBONATE (stronger plastic piston) piston to replace the cheapo plastic piston for replacement OR pay upwards of $65 USD to replace piston and gearset because metal has shredded metal. if your piston head came off, buy an alu
  10. thanks very much for the info. i'll go ahead and give this a try and hopefully this resolves my issue.
  11. if you get this to the shop and they manage to fix the semi-auto trigger issue, ask them them what they did to fix it and please post what you find out. i am very curious about what the pros think about it. fyi, i have taken this box apart many times and still cannot get it to go although i have only a couple of little hunches that i think may fix the problem, i haven't tried it yet. i will post if i solve the trigger problem. the latest problem is that i cracked the piston head and have to replace this as soon as airsoft extreme opens again for the holidays. fyi, thi is a replacement
  12. thanks for posting this. i have no idea why it is doing this but i will say it has nothing to do with piston and spring. the problem is the trigger itself. i have taken apart the bottom mechbox many, many times to try to fix the trigger problem and will try again very soon with a different idea why this is happening. the selector switch is a very simple device and only helps to engage the trigger into auto/semi-auto mode. the trigger mechanism seems to be a generic trigger with two contacts and i think my problem is the alignment of these two contacts has gone out and i need to straighte
  13. I'm about to rip open the gearbox to fit a normal piston and sector gear, but not sure how to get better accuracy. Does it require a tight bore barrell or would a better hop-up unit be suffiencent? both. i have not replaced either on mine, but it is firing straight and hard at the moment with stock hop-up unit and barrel. however, i believe that a sturdier hop-up unit (the G&P metal hop-up is the only metal hop-up that will work with this gun) will make feeding more consistent and make the gun more durable. i don't know what the diameter of the inner barrel is on this thing
  14. MORE ON THE R85. 1.) 16 teeth piston and sector gear with the modification according to G&G downgrade is working with 8.4V AND 9.6V battery. THERE IS NO LOSS IN COMPRESSION. it fires straight and true and will have a chronograph done on it soon (i don't own one yet). so far, shooting straight and hard to about 60 feet with .20's. hop up is set to fly straight and bb drops at about 55 feet to target. 2.) after firing more than 1500 bb's on 8.4V and roughly 1000 on 9.6V piston is fine and holding up well. fyi, i have installed a plastic piston in this thing for the moment (left
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