cocofr69

@ Nazio: you can get a remplacement outer casing for your mag: http://www.tacticalquartermaster.co.uk/cat...6925981e00b4382 i had this problem, look at the upper side of the square hole on the side of the mag, it's worn because the outer casing is not made of steel, it's too soft. I used a flat screwdriver inserted in that hole to spread a little bit the upper side and it worked fine.

Right, Tangman just do this: and use some thread lock ( @Eliminator vi, j'ai compris où on met le frein filet )

http://www.youtube.com/user/Latparts

Two parts can be broken to cause a auto fire only, the disconnector or the hammer: http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=377 http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=376

The pins you see from the external are fake, to access the #127 you have to take out the trigger group.

Thanks In fact, the barrel is a regular AEG inner barrel, it's a drop in for the bucking and the barrel, no modification needed. You're right, i'm using Solidworks.

The barrel is held by the usual clip used with AEG: About the nub, i tried to make the same that on the VSR, because The chief said it was the better for accuracy , i tried to find pictures of VSR's hopup and i found this: so i did this: @ The chief: do you think that it's the kind of solid H nub used in the VSR or must i modify it to use a AEG nub ? For the adjustement, it's the same nut as the original HU wich is used to push the arm, this allows to make a drop in hop-up without modifying the bolt or the receiver. To push the arm, there is a new part

Hi all, i have think about what could be a hop-up for the WE that uses a regular AEG barrel and bucking: IT'S POSSIBLE !! It needs three new parts, and to modify two existing parts, #111 and #114. So the question is.... is there anybody out there who can machined that parts ? i can give a complete set of blueprints I'm looking by my side to find a another place to make it, i already have one but they are way too expensive.

Hi there today, i have made the test of removing the rubber #118 and shoot a auto 4-5 BBs burst to see what happens, and this is the result: the BB doesn't fall, it is firmly held by #117. Then, i disassembled the parts to try to mesure the exact position of the BB in the #117, as you can see i have take out all the parts of the hop-up before testing: With a lot of care, i mesured the position of the BB in the #117: and i modified the CAD model: So the difference between the position of the BB after manually cooking and after a burst i

Thanks Otto you're right, we see the ridge: in the 3D model: and in the split view: But the BB is not held by the zone before the ridge, but by the zone after it: The zone A is too wide, with a diameter of 6.2mm, to hold the BB, it's the zone B, after the ridge, wich hold the BB. But if the zone B is full of silicone, it will not hold the BB (before taking the pictures, i have clean out the barrel and #117), and then it will be the green dot that will hold the BB, or not, just like you said. The point is to avoid the green rubber #118 to have to

Hi guys here is my 2 cents about the function of the part #117. I have mesured and drawn the parts of the hop-up : Assemblage_Hopup_WE.PDF - 1.5 Mb On the "detail 1", you can see the position of the BB according to the size of the different parts, it's about 1.5mm away from the green rubber on the gen 1 hop-up, it holds tight in the #117 rubber. To confirm that, i took a picture of the BB after cooking manually, and slowly, the gun: and then, the same view on the 3D model: It seems to be at the correct position on the blueprint... Then, i fired a b

+1 We don't need new bodies by now, we need steel parts ! More peoples experiments trigger group issues every day, the trigger parts are made of pot metal, here is what we really need: -steel #54 -steel #57 -steel hammer -redesigned steel #59 -stronger firing pin's spring

Thanks Otto

Hello all According to the idea of Renegadecow, here is the shape of a improved part #59: I'm going to see if i can make it laser cut and how much it will cost for a stainless steel part.

This is a typical part #117 problem. Disassemble your hop-up, check and clean the part #117, re-assemble the hop-up and check that it hold correctly the BB (no need to put the HU chamber back in the body and outer barrel to check). If it's not holding the BB, then you will have to change the #117.