cocofr69
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Posts posted by cocofr69
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There is the solution of your problem: take a flat screw driver and simply srcew on the Buffer Retainer, it's too high.
Right, Tangman just do this:
and use some thread lock ( @Eliminator
vi, j'ai compris où on met le frein filet ) -
Got my adjustable system in but I would like to know how to take my nozzle of the original rod and put it back on my new rod...
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For some odd reason semi-auto went out on me today. It shoots only in full auto? WTF. Does anyone know what would cause this to happen?
Two parts can be broken to cause a auto fire only, the disconnector or the hammer:
http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=377
http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=376
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Part #127
http://www.begadishop.de/catalog/images/202824-manual-3.jpg
It looks like they're holding the Trigger unit into place. So they're not just fake.
The pins you see from the external are fake, to access the #127 you have to take out the trigger group.
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Thinking about the barrel location (I always look for the easy solution), rather than having to machine the barrel shroud to accept the AEG clip, could you not just drill a section out of the barrel so it can take the existing small roll pin?
Thanks
In fact, the barrel is a regular AEG inner barrel, it's a drop in for the bucking and the barrel, no modification needed.
You're right, i'm using Solidworks.
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The barrel is held by the usual clip used with AEG:
About the nub, i tried to make the same that on the VSR, because The chief said it was the better for accuracy
, i tried to find pictures of VSR's hopup and i found this:
so i did this:
@ The chief: do you think that it's the kind of solid H nub used in the VSR or must i modify it to use a AEG nub ?
For the adjustement, it's the same nut as the original HU wich is used to push the arm, this allows to make a drop in hop-up without modifying the bolt or the receiver.
To push the arm, there is a new part #115 after the bevelled nut, with a curved shape:
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Hi all,
i have think about what could be a hop-up for the WE that uses a regular AEG barrel and bucking:
IT'S POSSIBLE !!
It needs three new parts, and to modify two existing parts, #111 and #114.
So the question is.... is there anybody out there who can machined that parts ? i can give a complete set of blueprints
I'm looking by my side to find a another place to make it, i already have one but they are way too expensive.
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Hi there
today, i have made the test of removing the rubber #118 and shoot a auto 4-5 BBs burst to see what happens, and this is the result:
the BB doesn't fall, it is firmly held by #117.
Then, i disassembled the parts to try to mesure the exact position of the BB in the #117, as you can see i have take out all the parts of the hop-up before testing:
With a lot of care, i mesured the position of the BB in the #117:
and i modified the CAD model:
So the difference between the position of the BB after manually cooking and after a burst is about 1mm, the BB is still 0.3mm from the #118 and 1mm from being out of the #117.
Of course, during the disassembly and the mesurement, the BB could have moved a bit, so the distance with the #118 could be be slightly different, but the important thing is that the BB is far enough from the end of the #117 to be firmly held by it.
After that, i can say that the 117 can hold the BB, and maybe having being designed for it, despite the fact that there is no #118. But this test have been made with a clean #117 and barrel, and i'm convinced that after a few mags with green gas, the silicone will make the BB to slip out of the #117 to the green rubber #118.
So the design of #117 can be improved to works correctly by blocking the BB even when full of silicone, there is enough space to fit a lip after the BB.
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Beautiful illustrations coco.
But the bb is stopping further than you have drawn - Seen in the actual photos.
You can plainly see the ridge in the rubber chamber (#117) in the actual photo. The bb is ahead of this so it isnt being held by the rubber chamber any longer. It is being kept from rolling out the barrel by the green dot.
Thanks Otto
you're right, we see the ridge:
in the 3D model:
and in the split view:
But the BB is not held by the zone before the ridge, but by the zone after it:
The zone A is too wide, with a diameter of 6.2mm, to hold the BB, it's the zone B, after the ridge, wich hold the BB.
But if the zone B is full of silicone, it will not hold the BB (before taking the pictures, i have clean out the barrel and #117), and then it will be the green dot that will hold the BB, or not, just like you said.
The point is to avoid the green rubber #118 to have to hold the BB, and make the #117 to work correctly despite being full of silicone. I think it could be done by adding a lip to #117 (WETTI if you read us
):
The problem is to make the lip thin enough to avoid blocking the BB, but thick enough to hold it despite the silicone.
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Hi guys
here is my 2 cents about the function of the part #117. I have mesured and drawn the parts of the hop-up :
Assemblage_Hopup_WE.PDF - 1.5 Mb
On the "detail 1", you can see the position of the BB according to the size of the different parts, it's about 1.5mm away from the green rubber on the gen 1 hop-up, it holds tight in the #117 rubber.
To confirm that, i took a picture of the BB after cooking manually, and slowly, the gun:
and then, the same view on the 3D model:
It seems to be at the correct position on the blueprint...
Then, i fired a burst of 3-4 BBs, and took another picture:
it seems that the BB is 1mm forward from the last picture, so on the blueprint i pushed the BB 1mm forward, this is "detail 2", and did the same view on the 3D model:
The BB is still holding tight in the #117 rubber, it's half a millimeter away from the #118, and 1mm to escape from the #117.
So where would be the BB if it's out of the #117 ?
I pushed the BB 2mm forward on the 3D model:
It doesn't that the BB is so far on the real picture, but till i haven't found a way to mesure the exact position of the BB after the burst, it's only speculation...
What i think about the BB falling is that the #117 is the part that hold the BB, and yes, the inertia of the bolt pushes the BB more than a manual cooking.
Due to the cylindrical shape of the zone wich hold the BB, a greasy #117 let's the BB pass through, but i think that a lip at the end of #117 could solve the problem:
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TSC or one of the aftermarket parts companies looked like they were going to make a hardened steel sear and hammer. Not sure if that is still in the works. I hope it is as I wouldn't mind having a more robust hammer on the trigger pack.
+1
We don't need new bodies by now, we need steel parts !
More peoples experiments trigger group issues every day, the trigger parts are made of pot metal, here is what we really need:
-steel #54
-steel #57
-steel hammer
-redesigned steel #59
-stronger firing pin's spring
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Thats the dogs danglers.....you took Renegadecows excellent design a step further.
WE-tech should be paying for this. BLOWS AWAY their shallow minded design.
OTTO
Thanks Otto
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Hello all
According to the idea of Renegadecow, here is the shape of a improved part #59:
I'm going to see if i can make it laser cut and how much it will cost for a stainless steel part.
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my we m4 which has the new hop up does not seem to do anything... stripped it apart and put it all back and still.. on or off it does not affect the bb at all, on top of that, after I fire, the on ein the chamber is able to roll straight out if the rifle is point down.. so playing with it and moving around often leads to me effective playing with about 15 rounds per mag.
This is a typical part #117 problem.
Disassemble your hop-up, check and clean the part #117, re-assemble the hop-up and check that it hold correctly the BB (no need to put the HU chamber back in the body and outer barrel to check).
If it's not holding the BB, then you will have to change the #117.
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Same thing happend to my PTW with a real steel magpul trigger guard .. i broke my receiver. So i just bought a PRIME lower and installed it without any problems then.
So it's not necessarily the trigger guard.
Anyway, you should use your pliers to push the pin through .. don't tap it in with a hammer.
The same happened to me with a STAR M16A3 body, since that i use a pair of pliers too instead of the hammer for that kind of pins.
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Thanks Ibico, it's a wonderfull job
@ Lupus: really hope to see soon your "evil black rifle" pictures
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The stock is the chinese clone of the VLTOR modstock that is been sold at RSOV. I'm very satisfied to it's build quality. And almost no wobble at all, unlike the original M4 stock that came with the gun. I just love it's feel with it's wide cheek rest and thick rubber end plate.
Hummmm, good choice, i like this stock too since i have tried one on my M4. You have a beautiful black rifle !
About the part that cause you your little problem, it would be a real good thing to have it in spare, alone not with all the trigger group, since it's very easy to forgot to switch to semi before closing the upper, i was near to do it too just after i had the gun.
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Some new parts added to AB listing, with not less than 3 new charging handles :
a new version of the normal one
http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=188
a steel version
http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=241
a 7075 aluminium version
http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=240
and some others :
the new part made to solve the #122 issue
http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=237
the KAC trigger guard
http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=238
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Not that I saw. I saw this on Evike, http://www.airsoftpost.com/matrix-full-met...rt-p-30620.html
Is this the same thing? Since its "Matrix" brand it means they've rebranded something else. It looks like the same product, without the trades.
Just like Lordelpus said, it's a rebranded Dboys:
http://www.gunnerairsoft.com/catalog/produ...roducts_id=1349
Hope you can cancel your order since the price is about 2.5 times less on gunner...
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Hi guys
here is the part we need to solve the charging handle issue, a new bolt key that allows the charging handle to grab it and not "bend" while grabbing the bolt, and allows to use a RS CH without modding it :
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I cant see why it wouldnt fit, both the WA and WE are designed to take RS parts.
Because the WA grip is not a RS one... the RS grip has a hole where a spring and a knob fit to make the selector click, the WA doesn't.
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Very nice! Are these the ones modified from STAR AEG outer barrels?
Yes, it is
it's the complete front set from a M16A3 STAR.@ Chris: it's a custom made, i have take a outer barrel from one of my AEG to make it modified. There is no website where to order one, but i will order a pack of outer barrel to make them modified if i have enough pre-order here by MP.
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Hi guys
here are the first pictures of a WE M4 with a M16A2 front set
the modified outer barrel
the gun complete
The next step is to install a RS A2 stock.
I can order a pack of outer barrel and make them modified, price would be 140$ each and delay 2 weeks before shipping.
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Kai, this rubber part is just behind the inner barrel, inside the part 111, you can see it on this picture :
the brass ring you have lost is not a problem.
WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine
in Rifles (Gas)
Posted
@ Nazio: you can get a remplacement outer casing for your mag:
http://www.tacticalquartermaster.co.uk/cat...6925981e00b4382
i had this problem, look at the upper side of the square hole on the side of the mag, it's worn because the outer casing is not made of steel, it's too soft. I used a flat screwdriver inserted in that hole to spread a little bit the upper side and it worked fine.