cocofr69

The problem does not come from the green rubber (part 118) because it doesn't hold the bb. The bb is hold by a black rubber (part 117).

you can order this part : http://airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct_vie...products_id=195 and disassemble your nozzle to change it.

This is what i planned to do first, but the difference between a G&P barrel and the complete SPR front sight is only 20$, G&P (or Guarder) barrels are very expensive. With a king arms, difference is less than 30$, but king arms barrels wobbles because of there 2 parts conception. A Star M16 barrel would be interresting because of it's cheap price and good quality, but the WE front sight doesn't fit (41mm between pin holes instead of 38.5mm for Star or G&P), so you'll have to buy a G&P front sight and sand it a little bit to make it fit the Star's barrel (and, of cours

I have ordered a complete SPR front set few days ago. I've made blueprint for the work to do to convert a AEG outer barrel to fit the WE and found a mechanic who can do the job. I will keep the original inner barrel and see how it shoot, but i already have a 500mm Prometheus inner barrel in stock and i will convert it it fit the WE too later. The front set i ordered is a CNC china made that seems good quality, i just hope that the delta ring thread will be the same than WE or G&P one (G&P delta ring fits perfectly on the WE). I will post pictures of the gun with the front s

Just after getting my M4, i was looking a way to have gaz cheaper, so i grab info about propane bottles with a adapter, but it appears from several posts on different french forums that the propane is a lighter gaz than the green gaz. It seems to be a good gaz for a plastic GBB, but the WE M4 is made to work with green gaz.

Hello, i use 0.30g bb to avoid shooting to the sky, even 0.25g bb were too light. 50° farenheit (about 10° celcius) is, according to me, not enough cold to make the gun not work properly, mine works fine with the first magazine at about 0° celcius (32° farenheit), after that the magazine is too cold to make the bolt cycles well. I don't think that it's the firing pin issue too because firing pin issue make the gun to vent but doesn't make the bolt to have a short cycle. It looks like a gaz problem, not enough pressure in the mag, the kind of thing that appears at low temp but no

Hello everybody Here is a picture of the junction between the outer barrel and the upper receiver: now when you pull back the upper completely disassembled

It's made of CNC steel, no doubt about that.

Here is my WE with a complete set of G&P parts (stock, CASV, silencer with 14mm CW thread): the stock has a little wobble, not a big issue, it can be solved with some pieces of adhesive tape inside the stock's tube.

No no, very usefull in fact, it means "order at AB, at least you buy from someone who knows what he sell"

Yes, me, i have received a free upper body just 6 days after saying to AB that mine had a little crack

The top the bottom How to disassemble: first, the cover... two, the screw... three, you push the inner... et voila ! some pictures of the parts

And now, ladys and gentlemen, some pictures of the firing pin ! 2 screws on the top without the cover without the firing pin, you can see the firing pin's spring here you can see the disconnector The firing pin and the cover out of the body the same in another postion and the same with a lot of grease before reassembling

Hello everybody here are some more informations about the forward assist issue: the red glue that is not enough strong, i have used a lot more strongest glue to glue it back, a special metal bi-component glue the button glued back, before reassembling in the upper PS: coucou Flamsteed

You're right, mine too.

Hello guys i have received a email from Airsoft Buddy today, WE sent him a new upper receiver for me and now it's on the road to my home AB is definitely a wonderfull seller, i can't be more happy to have bought my M4 from him ! his customer service is perfect ! @ Lupus78: the diameter of a mil-spec is 29mm, a civ-spec is 29.7mm, it's not a big difference, it will be a bit loose but you can solve it easily with some adhesive tape if you can't find a mil-spec stock.

Carsten, beautiful ! And good to know that G&P RAS fit perfectly.

Yes, the forward assist is functionnal, and usefull if you release the charging handle too "smoothly" and if it don't lock full forward. It happened to me once, and i clearly see the bolt beeing closed by the forward assist. I think it can avoid the charging handle breaking issue. this is the parts of the forward assist. The part n°5 is in two parts wich seems to be glued together, but the original glue is not enough strong. So, a little bit of glue, it stay in place, and you still can disassemble it by removing the pin.

I know this problem, it happened on mine too Not a big issue in fact, that why i didn't told about yet on the forum, just a little bit of glue to fix it.

The pins are very well secured, just like the RS one, and i think that RS pins will fit in the WE. Here is a pic of the pins :

Hello all here is the size of the stock tube, in inches (not familiar to me ) So it measure between 1.143 inch to 1.147 inch depending the place i measured it and it have a flat back, so it's mil-spec. Jin15 : i haven't got the way to cast the model by myself, i'm making the blueprint hoping that the kind man who offer you to cast one can do it.

Here is the first attemp to make a blueprint of the boltcatch : the solidworks model http://imagik.fr/view-rl/155509 the blueprint http://imagik.fr/view-rl/155510 and what could be done to improved it http://imagik.fr/view-rl/155511 it need some works to be perfect, the shape is a little bit difficult to measure with only a caliper.

Thanks Jin I have a little surprise for you http://imagik.fr/view-rl/155406 Do you see what it means ? A few posts ago, someone have proposed to you to mold you a new steel bolt catch if he could have a blueprint of it, i'm going to try to do it the more precise i can. I have also examine it, and it can be improved , it seems that there is enough place to make it thicker.

Like i have said in the email i have sent to you few minutes ago, Airsoft Buddy you're the perfect man ! I'm very happy to have bought this gun from you instead of from any other shop, first because of all the pictures, videos and answers to any questions you gave us from the first day and two because of your excelent and fast customer service. Thanks again.

Thanks Lupus and Urpeacekeeper I have mailed AB to show him the problem, i have good hope that he will find a solution, he have been perfect till now with everyone's problem. Horsem4n, modifying the trigger system to make it semi only is quite easy in did. The only thing to do is to cut the rear part of the disconnector. Look at this link http://www.bushmaster.com/anatomy_bushmaster.asp, then click "start" and in the menu click "parts". In the list of the parts, search "disconnector", then you will see how the disconnector works : the one that is shown in the animation is t