cocofr69
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Posts posted by cocofr69
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is there anywhere i could purchase the ~350fps valve kit.... i have the valve that makes my WE shoot at around 520fps. I cant really use it at any fields here so i want to be able to use it.
you can order this part :
http://airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct_vie...products_id=195
and disassemble your nozzle to change it.
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I hope it works well. It may be more economical to just do barrels (say, use Guarder or G&P barrels). Otherwise the price may have a lot of people just waiting around for WE to do it.
This is what i planned to do first, but the difference between a G&P barrel and the complete SPR front sight is only 20$, G&P (or Guarder) barrels are very expensive.
With a king arms, difference is less than 30$, but king arms barrels wobbles because of there 2 parts conception.
A Star M16 barrel would be interresting because of it's cheap price and good quality, but the WE front sight doesn't fit (41mm between pin holes instead of 38.5mm for Star or G&P), so you'll have to buy a G&P front sight and sand it a little bit to make it fit the Star's barrel (and, of course, a gaz tube, a handguard cap, and a handguard).
For a Star, it would be 145$ before shipping.
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- No aftermarket parts yet available to convert this into a 16-incher, but I suppose things will change very quickly
I have ordered a complete SPR front set few days ago. I've made blueprint for the work to do to convert a AEG outer barrel to fit the WE and found a mechanic who can do the job.
I will keep the original inner barrel and see how it shoot, but i already have a 500mm Prometheus inner barrel in stock and i will convert it it fit the WE too later.
The front set i ordered is a CNC china made that seems good quality, i just hope that the delta ring thread will be the same than WE or G&P one (G&P delta ring fits perfectly on the WE).
I will post pictures of the gun with the front set as soon as the job will be done. If it fits well, and if the quality of the front set is good, i will be able to order 10 more front sets to convert, and sell them about 215 $ without shipping (i have to pay the airmail shipping from HK, the taxes and the conversion ).
It's a bit expensive, but unless i have a contact in HK that could find a local mechanic and look at the job to ensure it would be be correctly done, and then ship it around the world, i have to pay the shipping to France and the taxes. With a local contact, the price will drop to around 140-150$ i think.
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Hey coco, Im using propane from a bottle, but not a new can. It seems to have about half or so, so it should have been enough. The first time I fired it, it shot fine on auto, with no bb's, but after that, it wouldnt work. Also, Coco, the gun did vent just the last time I tried it. The bolt would open up just slightly and almost all the gas came out.
Just after getting my M4, i was looking a way to have gaz cheaper, so i grab info about propane bottles with a adapter, but it appears from several posts on different french forums that the propane is a lighter gaz than the green gaz. It seems to be a good gaz for a plastic GBB, but the WE M4 is made to work with green gaz.
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Hey guys! I did a test fire on my gun, and I have two questions.
Hello,
i use 0.30g bb to avoid shooting to the sky, even 0.25g bb were too light.
50° farenheit (about 10° celcius) is, according to me, not enough cold to make the gun not work properly, mine works fine with the first magazine at about 0° celcius (32° farenheit), after that the magazine is too cold to make the bolt cycles well. I don't think that it's the firing pin issue too because firing pin issue make the gun to vent but doesn't make the bolt to have a short cycle.
It looks like a gaz problem, not enough pressure in the mag, the kind of thing that appears at low temp but not at 10° celcius (50° F).
Do you use green gaz and is it a new bottle ?
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Gah. Any word about what might be necessary to fit an SPR length outer barrel? Surely someone has an AEG M4 barrel and a WE M4 that they can take pics of...
Hello everybody
Here is a picture of the junction between the outer barrel and the upper receiver:
now when you pull back the upper
completely disassembled
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* Unless yours bolt carrier is special made, I am pretty sure the bolt carrier is made of zinc. (Only Ino's M4 come with steel bolt carrier as far as I can remember)
It's made of CNC steel, no doubt about that.
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I recall someone on this forum using an AEG aftermarked stock (king arms or G&P) on the WE. Can anyone confirm this? I figured that the stock diameter was Milspec and wouldnt work on ANY aeg stock system, but I remember someone mentioning it. Will any of the ACM or brand name crane stocks work on it?
Here is my WE with a complete set of G&P parts (stock, CASV, silencer with 14mm CW thread):
the stock has a little wobble, not a big issue, it can be solved with some pieces of adhesive tape inside the stock's tube.
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Got a reply from redwolf :
....
Useless
No no, very usefull in fact, it means "order at AB, at least you buy from someone who knows what he sell"
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Has anyone actually gotten anything from "Airsoft Buddy" yet besides the gun itself? I heard something about free steel bolt catches, then it was a steel bolt catch when you have a magazine. Are their any pictures of the grey receiver version?
Yes, me, i have received a free upper body just 6 days after saying to AB that mine had a little crack
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Are there pictures anywhere with the WE M4 mag taken apart? A parts diagram will do as well.
The top
the bottom
How to disassemble: first, the cover...
two, the screw...
three, you push the inner...
et voila !
some pictures of the parts
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And now, ladys and gentlemen, some pictures of the firing pin !
2 screws on the top
without the cover
without the firing pin, you can see the firing pin's spring
here you can see the disconnector
The firing pin and the cover out of the body
the same in another postion
and the same with a lot of grease before reassembling
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Hello everybody
here are some more informations about the forward assist issue:
the red glue that is not enough strong, i have used a lot more strongest glue to glue it back, a special metal bi-component glue
the button glued back, before reassembling in the upper
PS: coucou Flamsteed
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Carsten, yes that "wear" is somewhat normal. I think I've even seen that on real AR's. Mine is like that too and I'm sure others' are also.
You're right, mine too.
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Hello guys
i have received a email from Airsoft Buddy today, WE sent him a new upper receiver for me and now it's on the road to my home
AB is definitely a wonderfull seller, i can't be more happy to have bought my M4 from him !
his customer service is perfect !@ Lupus78: the diameter of a mil-spec is 29mm, a civ-spec is 29.7mm, it's not a big difference, it will be a bit loose but you can solve it easily with some adhesive tape if you can't find a mil-spec stock.
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Carsten, beautiful !
And good to know that G&P RAS fit perfectly.
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Yes, the forward assist is functionnal, and usefull if you release the charging handle too "smoothly" and if it don't lock full forward. It happened to me once, and i clearly see the bolt beeing closed by the forward assist. I think it can avoid the charging handle breaking issue.
this is the parts of the forward assist. The part n°5 is in two parts wich seems to be glued together, but the original glue is not enough strong. So, a little bit of glue, it stay in place, and you still can disassemble it by removing the pin.
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My forward assist button sprang out after finishing a mag, I had to super glue it back on.
I know this problem, it happened on mine too
Not a big issue in fact, that why i didn't told about yet on the forum, just a little bit of glue to fix it.
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Don't know if this has been asked before, but;
how are the receiver pins? Are they secured well?
Will AEG ones fit if they aren't that great?
The pins are very well secured, just like the RS one, and i think that RS pins will fit in the WE.
Here is a pic of the pins :
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Hello all
here is the size of the stock tube, in inches (not familiar to me
)
So it measure between 1.143 inch to 1.147 inch depending the place i measured it and it have a flat back, so it's mil-spec.
Jin15 : i haven't got the way to cast the model by myself, i'm making the blueprint hoping that the kind man who offer you to cast one can do it.
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Here is the first attemp to make a blueprint of the boltcatch :
the solidworks model
http://imagik.fr/view-rl/155509
the blueprint
http://imagik.fr/view-rl/155510
and what could be done to improved it
http://imagik.fr/view-rl/155511
it need some works to be perfect, the shape is a little bit difficult to measure with only a caliper.
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And coco, I'm really sorry to hear that your receiver tab came broken! I'm certain you must have got a lemon since the receiver tabs on mine and everyone else's that I've seen are very solid and secure. Airsoft Buddy has been very good about customer service though so I'm sure you'll get a replacement upper at no cost.
Thanks Jin
I have a little surprise for you
http://imagik.fr/view-rl/155406
Do you see what it means ?
A few posts ago, someone have proposed to you to mold you a new steel bolt catch if he could have a blueprint of it, i'm going to try to do it the more precise i can.
I have also examine it, and it can be improved , it seems that there is enough place to make it thicker.
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Sorry to hear that your M4's upper receiver was broken when received. I've already sent the your photos to WE and request to have a spare upper receiver for your replacement. Of course, you don't need to pay. That's our service. I will ship you the replacement when I got it from WE. May need a bit time for shipping from Taiwan. Sorry for keep you waiting. I'm so sorry about that.
Like i have said in the email i have sent to you few minutes ago, Airsoft Buddy you're the perfect man !
I'm very happy to have bought this gun from you instead of from any other shop, first because of all the pictures, videos and answers to any questions you gave us from the first day and two because of your excelent and fast customer service.
Thanks again.
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...i'm going to see if you can modify the sear system to make it semi only. then ill buy spare parts and ill have a semi only trigger group and a FA trigger group. then ill be able to exchange parts to make an out door gun and an in door gun. (or maybe i'll just build 2 guns...)
Thanks Lupus and Urpeacekeeper
I have mailed AB to show him the problem, i have good hope that he will find a solution, he have been perfect till now with everyone's problem.
Horsem4n, modifying the trigger system to make it semi only is quite easy in did. The only thing to do is to cut the rear part of the disconnector.
Look at this link http://www.bushmaster.com/anatomy_bushmaster.asp, then click "start" and in the menu click "parts".
In the list of the parts, search "disconnector", then you will see how the disconnector works : the one that is shown in the animation is the semi only model, the auto model looks like the ones you can see on this link http://www.ftfindustries.com/m16fullautopage.htm
In fact, the disconnector is the parts that retain the hammer while the trigger is pressed during the semi auto firing mode. For the auto mode, the selector push on the disconnector to avoid it to catch the hammer. If you cut the rear of the disconnector, the selector cannot push on it, then no auto fire possible.
I have look at the trigger group of my WE M4, and it's quite similar to the RS one, but i can't say if a RS disconnetor will fit in. If we can have spare parts of the trigger group, we will be able to make a disconnector for semi only and have a other one to replace it for having auto again.
WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine
in Rifles (Gas)
Posted
The problem does not come from the green rubber (part 118) because it doesn't hold the bb. The bb is hold by a black rubber (part 117).